Spark Plug Wires

[carmover]

I got some spark plug wire from Restoration Supply and used my old terminals on them and they are arking where they clip on the spark plugs.I pushed the wire up to the round part of the terminal.I found a set of assembled wires from Brillmans but they only list for Buicks 1928 to 1930 6 cylinder model 40.Question is will they work on me 1925  model 25A if the will I want to order a set as they have the ninety degree boots and are completely assembled and this should fix my problem.I have cleaned the plugs off with alcohol and that didn't help.The car easily cranks up but has a serious miss.

[dibarlaw]

Ron:

Are you using the spark plug cover? What plugs are you using? Presently I am using the 3076s. I custom made a set of 7mm wires for my car and used a set of 90 degree boots for the plug end. The original 7/8" thread 7/8" hex AC Titan style plugs had a very short exposed  section top connection had plenty of space. And used no boot. The modern 15/16" hex Motorcraft 3076s project out about 3/8 of an inch farther. 518W Champions are even longer.

 

The left plug is a 2 piece  Champion "6".  Correct for our 1925s. The center AC Titan would be what your 1923 would have taken as it has an 1 1/8" hex. Notice how much longer the "reach" is compared to  the new Motorcraft 3076. I believe there is 1/4" difference.

 Motorcraft 3077s have a longer reach (more exposed insulator and electrode not longer metal shell). Also they are  out of production.

Close up of the Champion "6".

 

[carmover]

21 minutes ago, dibarlaw said:

Ron:

Are you using the spark plug cover? What plugs are you using? Presently I am using the 3076s. I custom made a set of 7mm wires for my car and used a set of 90 degree boots for the plug end. The original 7/8" thread 7/8" hex AC Titan style plugs had a very short exposed  section top connection had plenty of space. And used no boot. The modern 15/16" hex Motorcraft 3076s project out about 3/8 of an inch farther. 518W Champions are even longer.

 

The left plug is a 2 piece  Champion "6".  Correct for our 1925s. The center AC Titan would be what your 1923 would have taken as it has an 1 1/8" hex. Notice how much longer the "reach" is compared to  the new Motorcraft 3076. I believe there is 1/4" difference.

 Motorcraft 3077s have a longer reach (more exposed insulator and electrode not longer metal shell). Also they are  out of production.

Close up of the Champion "6".

 

Larry, I am using 3076 plugs also and they work good with the Spark Plug Cover. four of my wires are arking at the plug terminal.I am using the terminals off of my old Bob's wires.What I want to do is get a set soldered and assembled with the 90 degree boot.Brillman list a set for 28 to 30 model 40 Buicks on their website.Unless someone has a better solution I am going to see if Brillman can make me a setoff off the lengths that I give them.When you buy wires from Bob's they come unassembled and you have to assemble them yourself and I have never soldered them I just pushed the wire up against the plug.Maybe if I solder the copper wire to the terminal that will solve the problem.

[Brian_Heil]

These screw on (the wire) right angle connectors are really slick from restoration supply co. 

 

These plus some right angle boots from a used set of wires I had and have been very happy.  Wore one set out after 20+ years so I made another. 

Edited January 7, 2019 by Brian_Heil (see edit history)

[Bloo]

3 hours ago, carmover said:

When you buy wires from Bob's they come unassembled and you have to assemble them yourself and I have never soldered them I just pushed the wire up against the plug.Maybe if I solder the copper wire to the terminal that will solve the problem.

 

The terminals need to be connected somehow, and it varies. We haven't see what you are using. On some terminals you strip the wire and fold it back under before crimping the terminal tightly around the wire (capture the conductor end so you don't have something sharp sticking out). Some terminals have a spike that contacts the conductor inside the wire (shaky, but fine when brand new). Some screw in the end of the wire like Brian_Heil mentioned. Nothing wrong with that.

 

If none of these apply, you will need to strip a little wire and solder it to the connector for decent results. I prefer soldering. Good luck.

 

 

[carmover]

I got busy soldering the terminals tonight and it is a lot better and in total darkness I see no sparking at all even with the light water misting but still have a very light miss at idle.I readjusted the carb to get it running it's best.I am going to keep messing with it till I get it right.

[Hubert_25-25]

Ron, 

     I bought this wire set at Hershey for my 25-25.  It is 9MM cloth covered and black which is correct for our cars and it has good angled ends already crimped on it.  It came from RJ&L Wiring.  I think it is a nice wire set.    I am going to put some rubber boots on the distributor cap, so I have ordered some off ebay.  Notice also that I made a holder for the coil wire on the left end of the block.  There is a detail of this part in the book of parts.  

Hugh

[carmover]

Very Nice Hugh! I may have to check on those wires.I need to make one of those straps to hold the wires up to the block I've never had one on my car.

[Hubert_25-25]

Ron, 

    I think there should perhaps also be a rubber or plastic insulator on that wire holder on the back of the block to prevent chafing the coil wire.  Maybe make yours a little bigger, or put a few wraps of electrical tape here.  I wonder if anyone has a photo of what this part really looks like.  Mine came out a little short.  Larry DiBarry pointed out the clip in the parts book.   Also a photo of the plug wire that was with my car.   Hugh

  

Edited January 7, 2019 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history)

[Terry Wiegand]

Hugh,

Would I be correct in thinking that your push-rod cover has a bump out at the lower back end to accommodate the coil wire?  What are the short Black sleeves on the wires at the plug terminals?  What you did with this really looks nice.

 

Terry Wiegand

Out in a Really Warm Doo Dah 

[dibarlaw]

 

Terry the Spark Plug cover has the bump out on both the Master and Standards.

My 1925 Master engine.

 My 1925 Standard engine I  still have to route the coil wire behind the cover as Hugh shows.

 

 

Edited January 7, 2019 by dibarlaw (see edit history)

[Hubert_25-25]

Terry, 

   Yes, my 1925 cover has a bump out in the back for the coil wire.  The black insulator tubes near the plug wire connectors are a hard plastic material.  They came on the plug wire set.    The original ones are a hard rubber by design or by age.  Hugh

[carmover]

Terry, Those black things are insulators that slide up on the terminals to prevent arking.

[Morgan Wright]

 

 

15 hours ago, Hubert_25-25 said:

 

 

Hugh,

 

Does your engine have a water pump, or does the water just go without saying?

[Hubert_25-25]

Morgan,

Waiting on a water pump shaft.  Kyle Sliger is making a shaft for me.  My 1925 Standard shaft is essentially the same but a shorter version than he has for his 1925 Master.  From a CNC perspective, just some dimensional changes, and he did send me a video of the shaft on a lathe curling off excess stainless.  Kyle and I were moving along together and he was doing a lot of wood work on his car, and did start his engine briefly.   Then his son who was going to take over the machine shop decided to move to North Carolina.  Kyle is trying to play catch up learning all of the codes to the CNC machines that his son had brought into the shop, and then he is down a machinist as well when he leaves.  So we are missing some good posts by Kyle as he has not been able to do any Buick related work for a while.  He did pop his head out last week to post and say that he was getting closer to being able to get back to the Buick soon.  I hope so, and I plan to talk with him this week.  I am basically needing to finish out the water pump, and add a new style fan hub, and then I can install the radiator.  Add the exhaust pipe and a temporary gas tank and I should be able to start the engine.  In the meantime I am working on Chassis and brake items until I the pump parts are ready and I can get back to working on the engine.   My body is also still off the frame and I am trying to get as many items back in place that are easier to install with the body off.       Hugh      

[McCargar]

 

Hugh if you want insulation on the wire holder use shrink tube, quick and easy.

On 1/7/2019 at 7:07 AM, Hubert_25-25 said:

Ron, 

    I think there should perhaps also be a rubber or plastic insulator on that wire holder on the back of the block to prevent chafing the coil wire.  Maybe make yours a little bigger, or put a few wraps of electrical tape here.  I wonder if anyone has a photo of what this part really looks like.  Mine came out a little short.  Larry DiBarry pointed out the clip in the parts book.   Also a photo of the plug wire that was with my car.   Hugh

  

 

[Hubert_25-25]

I may just put heat shrink on the coil wire holder as suggested, but I did find this photo which shows the clip on a low mileage 1925 Standard model 28. 

     

[carmover]

Hugh, I found these at Lowes in the hardware department.They are perfect size for the 7 Mil wire and are dipped in rubber.The hole is a little large and will probably need a washer.

[Robert Engle]

You can slip a piece of shrink tubing over wire holder and heat shrink  it. I find that electrician tape get gummy with heat and time.

 

Bob Engle

[Morgan Wright]

12 hours ago, Ben Perfitt said:

Hugh,

 

The (rubber?) insulators at the spark plug terminal end are as close a match to the 1918 originals as I’ve seen — except they go right to the end, not leaving 1/8” of the wire insulation itself uncovered at the end.

 

12 hours ago, Ben Perfitt said:

12 hours ago, Ben Perfitt said:

 

 

 

 

.

They are bakelite. I have 6 of them if you want them, I wound up not using them because they only fit 9 mm wire and I was using 7 mm. I can sell them to you, but you have to use 9 mm wire or they won't fit.

.

[Hubert_25-25]

Ben, 

     Sometimes this stuff gets so old and fragile that it just crumbles.  Now it's only purpose in life is to serve as a pattern.  I also have a philosophy that  really anything on the car can be replicated.  Someone had mentioned that there was a process to cast a modern bakelite substitute.   Those plug wire ends can be remade as original.  They look like steel, and you could make them easier out of brass and then zinc plate plate them and they would look and function the same.  Thin steel is also not that hard to form.   If you really break it down, you are not fixing electrical stuff, but rather steel and rubber and plastic (mechanical parts) - so that should get you past the phobia of working on electrical items.   

 

Hugh

[Morgan Wright]

47 minutes ago, Ben Perfitt said:

 Since these cars still exist they will outlive us. Some future owner may wish those parts were kept with the car.

If you change your mind, no hard feelings.

 

Have fun!

 

Ben P.

 

 

 

 

 

Yeah I think I'll keep them. I'm keeping the wires too. All the parts I take off this are in a box. 

[Larry Schramm]

I am an almost a save everything that goes to your car.  Since I have been getting more involved in the brass & nickel cars, I disposed of everything post war that did not go to the vehicles that I have.  Now less stuff to crawl over.  Simpler life.