VickyBlue Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 When I pull the engine out without the transmission, do I have to drain the transmission fluid? I am getting ready to pull mine out... Thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 if it's the '56 that's in your avatar NO. BUT, you need to support the trans. or else the mounts will rip apart. Since this is a Riv. board again NO. again support the trans. Use blocks of wood or whatever so it doeesn't move. A jack may sink over time without you knowing. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 (edited) It is the 69. And yes, the transmission will be supported prior to separating the engine. My concern was about the transmission fluid. Thanks Edited September 2, 2018 by VickyBlue (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seafoam65 Posted August 27, 2018 Share Posted August 27, 2018 Don,t forget to unbolt the torque convertor from the flywheel of the engine before pulling the engine and trans apart. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted August 27, 2018 Author Share Posted August 27, 2018 Thanks... I missed it going over the notes. I appreciate it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 Have a good look at the rear seal while you're there. You'll never be that close again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JZRIV Posted August 28, 2018 Share Posted August 28, 2018 With engine out slide the converter off trans and replace transmission input shaft seal. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 (edited) Turns out the bumper was in the way and I couldn't reach over... After the bumper and the center section of the headlights was removed, I had to stop again, as the hood was in the way. Needed 6" before the oil pan could clear the radiator cross member, so I called my next door neighbor, I drilled 2 tiny pilot holes on each hinge and with his help, we lifted the hood off the car. The rest was easy. Engine is on the stand, secured. 166 teeth flex plate, is missing a tooth... Edited September 2, 2018 by VickyBlue (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 On 8/27/2018 at 8:09 PM, rocky5517 said: Have a good look at the rear seal while you're there. You'll never be that close again. Mine loses about a tablespoon a month but if I push it hard, it slows down to next to nothing. Nothing that 25 cents of kitty litter can;t handle. When we had th trans out, this is what we saw; can't say the effort to pull the engine, or chance breaking the exhaust manifold bolts, is worth it. Let;s hear what the experts have to say. Rear main is fine Rocky... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Garysriv Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 If you need to move the car while the engine is out you can support the trans with straps... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EmTee Posted September 2, 2018 Share Posted September 2, 2018 Your biggest enemy: "Well, while I'm in there..." 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 2, 2018 Author Share Posted September 2, 2018 I know... I was just thinking about the same thing. "While I am there" can turn into a nightmare, but other than a wash, scrub and a clean up, I am not removing any other parts. I already have my plate full. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 3, 2018 Author Share Posted September 3, 2018 (edited) All exhaust manifold studs are free!!! None of them broke. I used a can of PB Blaster, soaked them every hr on the hour for 2 days... No heat needed. I am also 3 lbs lighter, from all that fasting... Edited September 4, 2018 by VickyBlue (see edit history) 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 4, 2018 Author Share Posted September 4, 2018 (edited) Motor mounts looked good to me, no separation, balancer is pictured, timing cover came out effortless, it will clean up nice, I think I might reuse it with a new crank seal. No broken teeth, but a whole lot of slack and cracks... Edited September 4, 2018 by VickyBlue (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 Oh great. Now I’m having nightmares about my timing chain. ? Otherwise, that’s a geat lookin’ motor! How many miles on her? Thanks for the vids too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 On 8/27/2018 at 1:59 PM, VickyBlue said: When I pull the engine out without the transmission, do I have to drain the transmission fluid? I am getting ready to pull mine out... Thanks, It looks like your Riv is a 68, correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 It's a '69 Mike, a close kissing cousin to a '68 ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 On 9/3/2018 at 6:24 PM, VickyBlue said: All exhaust manifold studs are free!!! None of them broke. I used a can of PB Blaster, soaked them every hr on the hour for 2 days... No heat needed. I am also 3 lbs lighter, from all that fasting... . . . could have been the prayers too, in addition to the PB Blaster Vicky Blue ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 1 hour ago, 68RIVGS said: It's a '69 Mike, a close kissing cousin to a '68 ! I missed the arched grille in the front end photo. My mistake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 5, 2018 Author Share Posted September 5, 2018 (edited) Prayers, fasting, Holly Father's, doing my Cross every time one came out, you name it I did it... The timing chain had me do circles around myself for half an hour... I failed to see the arrow... I was looking for a dot. And since there was no dot, I mistook the hole underneath the arrow for the dot... I know, I know... One would assume that after 50 years of messing around with holes and dots, I would know the difference... Once the new timing gear set would not fit with the arrow pointing upwards, I went to the book. I then saw the arrow needs to be pointing at 6'oclock... After that everything else went it fine. Today was a cleaning/scrubbing day... Timing cover looks as new, I measured the oil pump gears set distance against the cover and it was at .002 which is within specs, according to the book, but I went ahead and ordered a new set from TA, together with the oil plate booster kit, the flex plate and the Viton rear main seal. Manifolds had no gaskets, should I put gaskets, or will they crack with gaskets? I also got all new engine bolts set from here http://diecastmusclecars.com/dcm455bolts.htm really cool guy... 89K documented miles PWB... I am a believer now... I was driving on borrowed time. Thanks for not letting me quit... Edited September 5, 2018 by VickyBlue (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 5, 2018 Share Posted September 5, 2018 The manifolds came from the factory without gaskets, but both mating surfaces were brand new and flat. You can clean up the manifold mounting surfaces, but its probably best to use gaskets to insure a good tight seal. Copper manifold gaskets are better than composition ones, which can deteriorate with heat and age and blow out, needing replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Is this re- usable? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 Bring the manifolds to the machine shop & have them re-surfaced or use Rem-Flex gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 6, 2018 Author Share Posted September 6, 2018 Remflex it is... $34.99 on it's way. Thanks I put the straight edge across the manifolds and there were no gaps. Same on the engine block. I had never heard of them before, but the reviews speak for them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PWB Posted September 6, 2018 Share Posted September 6, 2018 (edited) 12 hours ago, VickyBlue said: Is this re- usable? The mounts appear great. Does the rubber still flex with an imprint? If you cant separate with a few pounds of force they should be good. As you know left and rights are not interchangeable. And anything new is probably garbage that can NOT withstand heat or vibration. I'm sure TA sells a decent product but it may be more race rigid poly? Edited September 6, 2018 by PWB (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 7, 2018 Share Posted September 7, 2018 22 hours ago, telriv said: Bring the manifolds to the machine shop & have them re-surfaced or use Rem-Flex gaskets. My choice also, REMFLEX # 13-001"s - and the suggested torque is 20 ft.lbs ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 10, 2018 Author Share Posted September 10, 2018 (edited) Rear main seal is dry... the car was not leaking any oil to begin with. Other than the pan seal being original and petrified, there were no other leaks. I ordered a new Viton seal from TA just in case... I am not sure what to do, replace it anyway (and what if it starts leaking) or leave it the way it is... My only concern is, what if it starts leaking when the miles start piling up? Everything is painted, intake, valve covers, timing cover, oil pump cover and exhaust manifolds. I also read that the oil pump idler gear that rides the short shaft, should have a 1/8" oiling hole. Mine does not, should I drill one like the picture shows? Edited September 10, 2018 by VickyBlue (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 I thought to go out of my way and buy new motor mounts from BF. I really didn't need them, but since I was there... it seemed a good idea. He sent me the wrong one for the Right side. Does anyone know if the correct right side exists? This one 1231008 does not fit the Riviera. I failed to see it fits the 67 and he failed to see that II ordered two different mounts for the same car... Very frustrating... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC1968Riviera Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 26 minutes ago, VickyBlue said: I thought to go out of my way and buy new motor mounts from BF. I really didn't need them, but since I was there... it seemed a good idea. He sent me the wrong one for the Right side. Does anyone know if the correct right side exists? This one 1231008 does not fit the Riviera. I failed to see it fits the 67 and he failed to see that II ordered two different mounts for the same car... Very frustrating... You can ask to return the mount for a refund. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 20, 2018 Author Share Posted September 20, 2018 He is pretty sure he has the correct nos right mount at the warehouse. He will send me some measurements to compare and mean time he told me to mail it back to him... The left one is spot on, I might just use my right one as it looks like new. The plan is to put the motor back into the car on Saturday. Tomorrow will be engine bay painting day. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 Usually the right ones are OK. It's the left that takes the abuse. Just send it back & get your $$$ back or sell it to someone else looking for one. You could probably sell it for more than you have into it. Tom T. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VickyBlue Posted September 23, 2018 Author Share Posted September 23, 2018 I really didn't want to wait and compare notes on measurements from what he has and what I have, so I told him to just issue me a refund. Engine is back inside the engine bay. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
68RIVGS Posted September 23, 2018 Share Posted September 23, 2018 . . . l@@king good !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telriv Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Should have UPGRADED to one of my 2.5 steering boxes while the engine was out. Makes the car so much more pleasurable to drive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rocky5517 Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Wasn't there some things written about not using ex manifold gaskets because it's better not to have something (gasket) interfering with letting the manifold cool off evenly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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