Garysriv

Hey, this one looks familiar! Its mine! Checking value before I go the next level to paint. Entertaining selling. https://www.ebay.com/itm/303276321355

Put mine right behind the battery. Made an L bracket and mounted to core support and inner fender. Works great!

Sounds good! I'm a whiskey guy, so flask in the back pocket! Thanks Kongaman!

It Works!!!!! Took the test drive today, got up to speed, pushed the button, green light on and speed held. Very accurate too! Seems now though my Speedo makes a bit of noise. I dismantled it pretty far to clean it up, something may not be aligned properly. Will use some clock lube I used to fix my clock last year. Wow, next stop A/C. Also found a merc switch trunk light. The screwholes were there, but the light was gone.

Took it out again today. What I found is that the little contact spring had worked itself past the contact pin. Good thing was it was still connected at the shaft and not broken. So I spun it around once to give it some tension and slipped it past the pin where tension is supposed to hold it. Everything else looked good under drill speed. Raining, so will have to road test when it stops.

Sounds good, I already put it back in but will take out again tomorrow and test as you noted. Is there any electrical test I can do while running it on the drill with that tiny white wire? Should it be making any current?

When the engine is running at idle and I press the button, the engine races (as it should per test process). When I'm driving and I press it, the car will continually accelerate until I let go, but it won't hold speed. The light never comes on. However, to test this you are supposed to disconnect the cruise harness to the Speedo, then do the idle test. Correct response is no idle up, but the light comes on (which it does). If this is the case, you are supposed to "remove Speedo and have repaired". The Speedo is supposed to send a pulse thru the Speedo cruise harness. I'm guessing this isn't happening....

I'm back to getting all my accessories working, and back to the cruise control. The 65 service manual has an excellent testing process flow. Tested the under hood unit, relay, amplifier, cut switch. Everything working as it should. The process flow drops me at "check speedometer". The manual says "have repaired by authorized service center". I took the Speedo out and it is pristine. Was hoping by cleaning some connections Id get lucky. Nope. So, does anyone know what inside the Speedo goes bad, and if anyone still services them?

When I bought this survivor it had been backed into by a service truck which crushed the tail panel. I found a rust free panel and gave it to my friends shop to cut out the old and weld in the "new". Looks great, and vacuum trunk release works great, even after 3 days sitting.

When the front of the car starts lifting up you're getting close!

Part number SME-906007. $19.99. Clarify for usage. On the right side you can see openings for a 3/8 and 1/2 inch drive. Put a 1/2 inch breaker bar in the 1/2 inch hole and that's what hits the ground. Be sure to tighten this tool on the pulley good, I actually went and got 4 hardened bolts because of the amount of torque. Works though.

Summit sells a $20 tool you mount the the balancer where the pulley bolts to. You basically bolt it on and turn the crank to where it hits the ground. Then tighten the crank bolt, remove the tool, attach the pulley. No friends needed.

Did mine a couple months ago. After removing the skins I actually cleaned all the roller runners with brake clean. Some of them you can take out and clean W/o messing up the window alignment. Then I got some silicone grease and a small paint brush and slathered the runners with it. You have to reach around but you can get to all of them. Only thing I used wd40 on was the little rollers. Also took out the back seat and panels and did the same to the rears, they were so gummed they needed manual help to go up. Now they all work fast and easy!

Trunk lid has a small crease, peg weld and slide hammer, not bad. I got a real steel replacement panel for the back from a donor car. To be honest, to be done right mine needs a strip and refinish too. Baby steps. Yeah, I already inquired about the relay, waiting for a response. I may go to the body shop n try n remove the relay to test if its not to hard to get to.....which it will be...

My cruise passes the first test, that is at idle if you press the cruise button, the engine idles up. However, the light never lights (bulb is good), and on the road the cruise won't hold speed. Car is in body shop to fix the back panel someone hit.....

Picture added....

Body shop has my car but the work never stops! The cruise on my 65 semi works. Rivnut pointed me to the testing flowchart in the service manual (you were right, its excellent). Where it led me to was that my relay, mounted near the transformer, is most likely bad. Any sources?

I cut mine out and put tiny freeze plugs in where the shaft went thru. No problems to date.....

Apparently it wasn't, but the lady I bought it from said they replaced it with a new one but never fixed the body (?).

If the rivets didn't need to be there, Buick wouldn't have gone to the trouble to drill both the hub and the drum and rivet them together.......

X3 on Duplicolor. After 3 different restorations its the only paint I buy. Doesn't clog, goes on good, and stays.

No need to separate the hub from the drum to have them turned. You take it off as an assembly, then remove the bearing seal and inner bearing. The shop will turn them like this. When you get them back, get all the shavings out of the bearing area, put the inner bearing back in along with a new seal. Just did it all 2 weeks ago. Also a good time to repack the bearings with new grease....

Next up is repair to the back panel. Dropped her off to my body guy to patch in some California steel.....

These are 853 wheels so no spacers needed. Even the 71 wheels didn't need spacers on the front, just the rear where there are no rivets.

Spacers?