1933 Dodge BARN FIND - HARLEAN'S COMEBACK

[JACK M]

Looking good !!

[Alan Cutler]

2 hours ago, Sactownog said:

 if for some reason it is different and does not sit under the trans correctly, I may have to do some modifications. 

 

Check the length of your drive shaft....

[Taylormade]

5 hours ago, Sactownog said:

from my understanding of it so far, the bell housing mounts to the cross member where the shifter and food peddles are mounted. the transmission has a rear lower cross member mount that the transmission sits on. if for some reason it is different and does not sit under the trans correctly, I may have to do some modifications. 

 

right now, my next move is to get the engine in the car and jack up the transmission to find out what has to be done to make it work. but I am praying it works smoothly. 

 

On my 32 DL there is a rubber pad on a crossmember just in front of the bellhousing, but the engine/trans is not attached to the pad, they just rest on it.  There is a mount that attaches to the transmission near the rear of the transmission.  This is a rubber mount.  I see that your bellhousing has no “arms” to attach it to the frame, so your setup must be similar to mine.  My car also has a half leaf spring that runs from the trans to the frame to prevent the motor/trans from twisting too much on the Floating Power rubber mounts.  My concern is that if your front motor mount is the standard Floating Power rubber mount, then your rear trans mount has to incorporate an isolated rubber mount to make the system work.  Mounting the trans solidly to a fabricated mount, even with rubber pads, may effect the front mount (it may be too flexible, or rip apart from the strain).  Not trying to turn this into a downer, but from a long list of frustrations with Floating Power you may want to be careful with your rear mount setup.  It certainly looks like you will need a shorter driveshaft depending on how far your free-wheeling unit (if you had one) stuck out of the back of the trans.  Maybe you’ll be lucky and your original rear rubber mount will work on your new setup.

[Sactownog]

4 hours ago, Taylormade said:

 

On my 32 DL there is a rubber pad on a crossmember just in front of the bellhousing, but the engine/trans is not attached to the pad, they just rest on it.  There is a mount that attaches to the transmission near the rear of the transmission.  This is a rubber mount.  I see that your bellhousing has no “arms” to attach it to the frame, so your setup must be similar to mine.  My car also has a half leaf spring that runs from the trans to the frame to prevent the motor/trans from twisting too much on the Floating Power rubber mounts.  My concern is that if your front motor mount is the standard Floating Power rubber mount, then your rear trans mount has to incorporate an isolated rubber mount to make the system work.  Mounting the trans solidly to a fabricated mount, even with rubber pads, may effect the front mount (it may be too flexible, or rip apart from the strain).  Not trying to turn this into a downer, but from a long list of frustrations with Floating Power you may want to be careful with your rear mount setup.  It certainly looks like you will need a shorter driveshaft depending on how far your free-wheeling unit (if you had one) stuck out of the back of the trans.  Maybe you’ll be lucky and your original rear rubber mount will work on your new setup.

the same way my front motor mount and rear bell housing mounts were from the start is how they are going to be when I put the engine back in. the lower cross member that goes under the tranny is the only concern but is easily fabricated. my engine and bell housing will mount to with front arms resting on frame and rear ball housing resting on the shifter cross member. 

[Ian_Greenlaw]

Now that engine looks good !!!! Great work

[Taylormade]

I saw your photos of the installation of your engine and trans on Facebook.  It looks great!  Now I see why your Floating Power setup works with a different transmission - the trans mounts attach to the bellhousing.  My 32 has a totally different setup which makes it impossible to do what you have done.  Looks like my fussing and worrying was totally unfounded.  Saner heads prevailed - as usual.

[Sactownog]

On 3/17/2020 at 10:57 AM, Surf City '38 said:

 

Check the length of your drive shaft....

new drive line will be made/fabricated. 

[Sactownog]

On 3/24/2020 at 12:06 PM, Taylormade said:

I saw your photos of the installation of your engine and trans on Facebook.  It looks great!  Now I see why your Floating Power setup works with a different transmission - the trans mounts attach to the bellhousing.  My 32 has a totally different setup which makes it impossible to do what you have done.  Looks like my fussing and worrying was totally unfounded.  Saner heads prevailed - as usual.

your insight is always welcome so that I know what to look for in all areas. 

now I am fussing with the clutch linkage. cant remember how it went on and took shitty pics. 

[Taylormade]

Mine is probably different 😀 but I have detailed photos I’d be glad to post if you need them.

[Sactownog]

got the engine in the car, my issue is once I got the transmission shifter in the car, I was not able to switch gears. come to find out the links that George Asche gave me were incorrect for my 1933 Dodge stick shift 

 

I have contacted the Asche family and they said they will send me other links that may work. problem is the links I have have one linke that is low and the other link stands up a couple inches which does not allow my shifter to move the left side link that controls reverse and 1st gear. 

 

If the new link's they send me do not work, I am afraid my only other option is to switch out the OD trans for the stock 3spd. 

 

after all this work, I may end up going back to the standard 3spd again and just sell the OD 39 trans. well see. 

 

 

[Sactownog]

stock links from og 3spd 

[JACK M]

Just goes to show. "its always something".

I hope you can get that OD working after all this.

[Taylormade]

I know nothing about OD units.  I assume the rear case is the actual overdrive, just behind the actual trans case.  I guess the OD case will not bolt up to your 33 trans case - that would be way too easy.

[Sactownog]

NEED HELP. 

 

DO THE FORKS OF THE SHIFT LINKS GO IN THE ROUND SLOTTED AREA? 

 

I believe the driver side "Reverse & 1st"  has a "C" style mount into the slide area where my finger is pointing 

 

and 

 

the passenger side link "2nd & 3rd" go in the slot where my finger is pointing. 

 

anyone have info on this. hope you understand my quarantined drinking typing. 

 

1st pic is rear 

2nd picture is forward toward engine. 

Edited April 11, 2020 by Sactownog (see edit history)

[JACK M]

I will say yes.

You should be able to test for fit by taking the forks out of the cover.

[Philip Bedard]

Looking to buy 1933-34 Dodge Plymouth Coupe

[Sactownog]

NEED A LITTLE HELP: 

WHAT TRANSMISSION FLUID  SHOULD I USE, I PREFER HIGH END OIL LIKE LUCAS.

. 

CAN i USE?  Lucas heavy duty high performance SAE 80W-90 GEAR OIL for the trans. 

Edited May 23, 2020 by Sactownog (see edit history)

[JACK M]

I wont know, but sometimes the OD takes a different lube than the tranny itself.

It may help if you remind us of what tranny and OD units you have.

You could start with 90 and lighten it up if its hard to shift.

Edited May 23, 2020 by JACK M (see edit history)

[Sactownog]

Trans builder said AMSOIL 40W DIESEL SYNTHETIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

BUT I CANT SEEM TO SOURCE IT ANYWHERE????

[JACK M]

https://www.amsoil.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgb3XoM7U6QIV6D2tBh1TKwRsEAAYASAAEgK6X_D_BwE

[Sactownog]

hey jack, do you know what type i should use? 

[JACK M]

I use regular old 90 wt in most of the manual trannys that I service.

Your trans builder probably has his reasons for suggesting the synthetic 40 wt. But that seems kinds thin to me.

I guess there are sometimes problems with the lubes being hard on some of the materials that they use in some of these older transmissions but I am not a metallurgist.

The over drive may be why he likes a thinner lube.
If you know what that OD trans came out originally of you might see what was recommended for it.

The Amsoil sight I linked to does show a synthetic 50 wt transmission fluid but I only saw it in a 5 gallon size.

 

I suspect you might be getting anxious to be back on the road, I know I would be.

[Alan Cutler]

It's been my experience leather seals do not like synthetic, if you have any.

[Sactownog]

 

 

 

[Sactownog]

 

 

[Sactownog]

Well, engine startes and idles great. 

I let it run for about 15-20 min then changed the oil

the next day I started the engine, let the oil run through it and now the engine starts and stops very well. 

need to make the exhaust, build a drive line, bleed breaks, wire the OD unit. and go on the 1st drive. 

[ply33]

What carburetor do you have on there? Looks quite different from the Carter B&B on my '33 Plymouth.

 

I don't see a road draft tube but there is something on the block where it attaches. What are you doing for crankcase ventilation.

 

Engine sounds good!

[Sactownog]

6 hours ago, ply33 said:

What carburetor do you have on there? Looks quite different from the Carter B&B on my '33 Plymouth.

 

I don't see a road draft tube but there is something on the block where it attaches. What are you doing for crankcase ventilation.

 

Engine sounds good!

The carburetor I have is a BDX-3 Stromberg single barrel. 

 

not sure what a draft tube is (unless its the circle with a drop tube towards the ground on passenger side of engine) but I have the connection in the engine but not the drop tube. 

 

[JACK M]

Whoop Whoop.

Big day for you.

Interesting how your car turned into a right hand drive between start ups.

[Sactownog]

7 hours ago, JACK M said:

Whoop Whoop.

Big day for you.

Interesting how your car turned into a right hand drive between start ups.

A LITTLE FLIP FLOP ACTION hahah camera just recorded that way for some reason. its still left hand drive. right hand would be fun tho. 

 

Dropped off driveline to get rebuilt today and will be working on finding the exhaust or building it. 

 

also, does anyone have an idea on where to put the transmission shift button (button used to shift from 3rd OD to 2nd OD) 

[JACK M]

I am no expert by any means but I don't think it changes from third to second gear, Rather third overdrive to third non overdrive.

To get to second gear OD you would have to use the shifter.

As for the button, on the one that I did that did not have all the original switches (kick down) I put it on a home made bracket under the dash.

If I am remembering right it was a three position switch. Off, normal overdrive and locked in over drive. The locked in didn't work well as it made the first gear WAY to high to drive from a stop.

I don't recall if that switch had the interrupter for the ignition as it was not entirely correct in the first place.

Now on the Jeepster that I did more recently the kick down was under the foot feed and it did interrupt the ignition for a split second and was just like stomping it into passing gear.

If it were me and if you do indeed have the ignition baffling mechanism I would find a place somewhere in the throttle linkage to make it kick down like that Jeepster does.

You could probably use some kind of micro switch under the foot feed or near the carburetor.

 

Here is a schematic, although I don't think this is the same as your tranny. It is for a positive ground however.

 

 

Edited July 28, 2020 by JACK M (see edit history)

[JACK M]

You can see the kick down switch near the bottom of the schematic. You can buy this from the Willys guys I think.

Might be better to find one for a Ford as they are positive ground. The Jeepster was negative ground. However the switch probably doesn't care.

[Sactownog]

I KNOW THIS SOUNDS DUMB, but do you use your foot or hand for the kick down switch. 

[Grimy]

Kickdown switch is mounted to the toeboard under the accel pedal and its plunger is adjusted so that the plunger moves and engages only when you "bury" the pedal--done 99.9999999% of the time with your foot 🙂

Edited July 28, 2020 by Grimy (see edit history)

[Sactownog]

2 hours ago, Grimy said:

Kickdown switch is mounted to the toeboard under the accel pedal and its plunger is adjusted so that the plunger moves and engages only when you "bury" the pedal--done 99.9999999% of the time with your foot 🙂

ARE YOU SURE? I thought the kick down switch was used when you lift your foot off the throttle, then engage the clutch, then push in the kick down button to shift into 2nd or 3rd gear, then release clutch and back on the throttle? 

[Grimy]

No.  On factory installations of BW ODs, when the knob is out (toward the driver), you're in direct, all the time.  Many people wait to activate the OD until they're doing 35-40 mph.  Assume that you're in direct, above the ~30 mph threshold.  Push in the knob (declutching is optional), and when you let off the gas, the trans upshifts to OD (about 30% fewer rpm than direct at any given speed) with a click or mild clunk.  Let's say you're approaching a serious hill at 40 in OD.  Sooner rather than later, you stab the accelerator pedal down and the trans shifts to direct in same gear (3rd) and you have more rpm to climb the hill.  But to keep it in direct, you must not back off the throttle to idle!  As you reach the top of the hill, back off on the throttle and it will automatically shift back to OD.  Now if it's a more serious downgrade than the climb, you'll want to stay in direct for better engine braking--to do that, you must BE in direct and you simultaneously declutch, let off the gas, AND pull the handle/knob out.

 

Harder to explain than to demonstrate.  If you get to the Bay Area, drive my Jeepster and you'll be an expert at it in 5-10 minutes.

[Grimy]

Further, the switch under the accelerator is ONLY to get you from OD to direct WHILE YOU'RE MOVING.

 

One further thing:  Early ODs didn't have a reverse gear lockout (check instructions for your 1939 box), so without that feature you MUST take the knob/handle out of OD (to direct) before backing up--or you'll lunch your nice new tranny.

Edited July 29, 2020 by Grimy
fixed typo (see edit history)

[zeke01]

MOTOR Manuals of the period have a very comprehensive section on overdrives. I would recommend you get a copy. Zeke

[Sactownog]

good lord this sounds complicated. maybe that is why I am not in a hurry to wire up the OD trans. 

[stakeside]

Good travels. Enjoy