bradsan Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 Kyle I really like your slotted workbench! Was that a custom bench? In regards to Hugh's post , the levers and gears are both aluminum I think. they tend to be okay unless the steering column tubes get seized with old grease or the distributor freezes. Then they break! They do polish up very nicely on a buffing wheel. These are for a '26 and looked like Hugh's before I started. I did them early on before I found out they were not correct for 1925. Anybody need a set? Brad 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 8, 2018 Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) Kyle: Hugh is correct on all the above information. My distributor on my 1925 Standard was jury rigged up with bushings and spark plug gaskets. I could stop the engine running by pushing one finger against the distributor case! I did replace it with a later cast iron unit. Iron case on left Pot metal "Jury Rigged" on the right. I also have a collection of swollen and broken distributors. One I was able to turn down the collar that the plate shaft goes through to fit in the starter generator end housing. It fit and turned nicely with a .005 clearance. That is for about 2 weeks, when I had to drive it out again because the pot metal still will "creep" after the surface tension is relieved. My Master had a later Delco distributor fitted. The owners son said his dad used one from a IHC 6 cylinder truck engine. Nice thing is that it uses easy to source points, condenser, cap and rotor. Can order from NAPA for all under $30.00 Also has a plate to use regular spark advance linkage. Edited April 8, 2018 by dibarlaw spelling (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 A deep socket I will try to tap it up some .Thanks for the pic. and input lets get this moving Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 the distributor It snapped in to 2 parts and is still relay stuck what is left I am going to get a heat gun from the machine shop and try a little heat to get the bottom half out of the starter generator housing . I was afraid to drive it up with a deep socket it might hurt the gear teeth . kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 well I have another one to use now I know what to look for - kyle one inch at a time . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 9 hours ago, dibarlaw said: Iron case on left Pot metal "Jury Rigged" on the right Pop goes the weasel and so did my pop metal distributor body pop in 2 it did !! Now I am cleaning up and painted the inside of my cast iron body that I'm going to put my old parts in .''God is good'' in my pile of spare parts that came with this car was a cast iron body . what a good day !! Maybe to marrow I can try to start it . cutting the old one out took a wile but with a vacuum hose on the bottom and drilling out the top part of the body I managed to get it a part with out disassembling the hole side of the engine . I drilled out the top with a 3/16 drill to cut the old distributor body out wile still in the car so I would not lose no time trying to be reedy to get to the nationals paint or no paint just go to have a good time .--kyle 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Good going Kyle. That is the same technique I use to get the swollen light and ignition switch levers out of the Delco dash unit. I will have to drill out what is left of the broken distributor in the spare 1925 Standard engine I picked up recently. Zoom in to see that the housing is already cracked. Fun with 1920s Buicks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 the housing is got the start of a crack i see do you have any housing around ?? kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 I have stayed away from wood bodied cars as I have zero experience with wood / metal (sheet metal) attachment. I have wood experience from many years ago and with these pix showing how he did it makes a novice come out in me. Still don't know how to fasten the sheet metal to the wood framing and have it look like new. I'm a '37' / '38' coupe fan and I really like them. My '38' is fitted out as my driving car with over drive. Getting ready for my next trip of about 2500 miles. Florida to Indiana and back. Oldbuickjim@gmail.com 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 8 hours ago, Jim Nelson said: Getting ready for my next trip of about 2500 miles. Florida to Indiana and back. Oldbuickjim@gmail.com built to drive :] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 10 hours ago, sligermachine said: the housing is got the start of a crack i see do you have any housing around ?? kyle Kyle: The housing should be cast Iron and can be brazed. If it is slight you could also machine a collar to reinforce it to make sure it does not get worse. The bore is such that the distributor is just able to pivot with the angle of advance/retard. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 2 hours ago, dibarlaw said: Kyle: The housing should be cast Iron and can be brazed. If it is slight you could also machine a collar to reinforce it to make sure it does not get worse. The bore is such that the distributor is just able to pivot with the angle of advance/retard. I meant that the housing on you "new" engine is got a crack in the housing that the distributor goes in .Do we have any more around I did not see any around my spare parts but we could cast some get my foundry out and pore some new distributor housings that bolt to the starter generator .out of aluminum .that is faster than making from solid some times . might be just as fast to make out of solid though.can we get new distributor housings easy I could use 4 of them ?? -kyle Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 On 4/8/2018 at 10:08 AM, Hubert_25-25 said: e, I hope this photo helps. I will send you more information on the distributor replacement, I just want to help you get this one out. As long as you don't break the big section of the housing, you may have something salvageable. Hugh Well I assembled this one enough times to do it in the dark . By the time I was happy with the way it looked . took some notes so you could look for some points--parts to work with . Maybe tomorrow I can try to see if it will fire up .--kyle pic. 1 bunch of bits to work with. pic.3 is this the original coil ?? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 On 4/8/2018 at 9:16 AM, bradsan said: Kyle The original distributor is made of pot metal which swells when it eventually goes bad. And it will eventually go bad! After that happens, you are usually breaking the distributor to remove it. The distributor can be replaced with a later cast Iron one ( or earlier; I ended up converting a 1923-24 4cyl distributor ). See if your current distributor holds a magnet which should tell us whether someone has already replaced it . The original distributor caps used 9MM plug wires.Some people use a much newer distributor that will take a later standard 6cyl GM cap and standard 7MM plug wires. Careful hitting on the distributor , the cast iron end of the SG unit that holds the distributor can break and that part can be harder to find than the distributor ! I once thought it would be interesting to try and get the distributors re-popped in aluminum. Maybe your CNC skills can come up with something?!!! The downside to that is that you would end up back at the hard to find caps and wires. Brad well if we had some caps I have a few like 4 or 5 we could recast some of 1100 pure aluminum ones . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Any one have a new set of points ?? for sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) 3 hours ago, sligermachine said: Any one have a new set of points ?? for sale If you can't find NOS... http://bobsautomobilia.com/distributor-parts/23-27-ignition-point-.-ip-247/ They also have cap, rotor and condenser. Expensive, but available. Edited April 10, 2018 by 27donb (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
27donb Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Some parts that were originally pot metal, and rarely survive the test of use and time. Horn button support, under horn plate at top of steering wheel Spark and Throttle gears (4) at bottom of steering column Some Distributor bodies Ignition and Switch flip levers Ignition and Light switch housing Speedometer inner threaded section where speedometer cable attaches, as well as the small frames that hold the rotating odometer wheels Some exterior door handles Interior door and window winder handles Golf bag door lock Oil filter distribution block, on top of oil filter on 27’s Carburetor heat and choke dash control plate Ornate radiator caps, Goddess and T-bone type Oakes Spare Tire Locks Engine Valve and Spark Plug Cover wing nuts Vacuum Fuel Tank cover Marvel Carburetor cover and parts I’m sure there are more too. Most of these parts are subjected to torque and force (I.E., window winder handles, valve cover wing nuts, switch flip levers, spark and throttle gears) and when they crack and swell, they start to bind, and increased torque snaps them into uselessness. Many of these parts have been reproduced and are available in brass or aluminum, and you can see how the car is much more safe, usable, and enjoyable after they have been replaced. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 Kyle, That is the original coil. I t belongs inside the cowl. I see some corrosion in yours (like mine). My plan is to mount the original coil in the original location in the passenger side of the cowl with just wires going to it but no power. Then I plan to mount a modern 6 volt coil way up and hidden in the dash. The modern coil will do the work and the original will be for show. It is good to have a modern coil for start up and troubleshooting anyway. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 new 6 volt coil and some new points I will order Don't want to brake down half way to the big shindig!!! 600 miles from home . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 Will it hurt to put the condenser closer to the coil I don't know if my old one is any good in side of the distributor?? Man I can type fast now days and my spelling has greatly improved !!!!!!!!!!!--Kyle . 3 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted April 10, 2018 Share Posted April 10, 2018 (edited) I have always thought condensors lasted 3 to 1 over the lifetime of a set of points. You can still get the condensors too, and I think they are fine in the distributor. 40 minutes ago, sligermachine said: Will it hurt to put the condenser closer to the coil I don't know if my old one is any good in side of the distributor?? Man I can type fast now days and my spelling has greatly improved !!!!!!!!!!!--Kyle . And you thought the forum was only going to help you fix your old car. So many benefits! Edited April 10, 2018 by Hubert_25-25 (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 I had the nickel-plating redone looks good the nickel-plating looks a deeper look now !!! 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Kyle: Looking great. I now how getting these finish items done helps keep one going on the project. Now that I have mine done for my Standard I am "antsy" to get the engine back. I will still have to trim the reformed SS carriage bolts that I used to install the brackets trimmed before I fit the radiator and shroud in to it. Used the lathe to reform the heads round on the pan head carriage bolts. I filed the 1/4" round holes to square to use the SS carriage bolts. I left the pan head shape on the bottom since it does not show. Reformed heads in powder coated brackets. Notice lacing slots. Again lacing slots at the top left. I will use my Dremmel tool with a diamond cut off wheel to get all the bolts flush with the jamb nuts. Again as I mentioned to you before that the shell you are using is from a 1926-1927 car. More rounded and has holes for attaching the lacing with rivets instead of slots as does the 1924 and 1925. You can see the slots in the photos I am posting. By 1930 if your Buick was in an accident and you needed a new shell the 1926-1927 style was the only part available from the factory. Keep up the good work. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 11, 2018 Author Share Posted April 11, 2018 1 hour ago, dibarlaw said: g is from a 1926-1927 car. More rounded and has holes for attaching the lacing with rivets instead of slots as does the 1924 and 1925. You can see the slots in the photos I am posting. By 1930 if your Buick was in an accident and you needed a new shell the 1926-1927 style was the only part available from the factory. Keep up the good work. I do have a couple with slots But the Original one I have is not shiny and it is the original with I will post a pic. to night .I can not make up my mind about wich one to use the not shiny one is slots and has a tag on it saying its original . one of my friends say don't re plate leave it original . I have 3 with slots the shop I sent it to to get redone took 3 months . and I have 1 more 1925 to restore yet . Yours looks grate you took yours apart to plate I was just going the paint the chrome on my flanges that bolt down can you do a close up of a bolt . I don't quite under stand the bolt part ?? ---kyle PS Do you have any good pic. of pre war sign? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Kyle, I don't know how authentic you are trying to get. The 1925 original set up was black painted radiator support brackets that were installed onto the nickel plated shell with nickel plated rivets. The 1/4" rivets (now usually stainless) can be threaded rivets (from www.restorationstuff.com and others) or modified carriage bolts. If you have already plated the brackets, you could still paint them like you say. Then you don't need to mess with the rivets at all. I don't know why someone would say not to replate a nickeled radiator shell. Your car would not be considered a "survivor" with original paint, so then most people go the route of a full restoration. Your shell looks really nice. This is how Brad did the threaded rivets. He cut a screwdriver slot in the back of the rivet. He also painted the inside bottom of the shell as a little corrosion protection. Hugh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibarlaw Posted April 11, 2018 Share Posted April 11, 2018 Kyle : To match the round head rivet I took the pan head stainless carriage bolt, (.562 O.D.) reduced the O.D. by 3/16 to (.375) Then I used a tool I ground for the radius for the round shape. I filed and polished to where I liked the finish. I used (2) 1/4-20 heavy nuts to chuck it up in a 3 jaw on my 10" South Bend lathe. The 2 nuts acting as lock nuts. The radiator hold down bolts are shown on page 12 of BOB'S latest catalog @$4.75 each Nickle or Chrome. These are mine they are 3/8-24 thread. There are to be leather pads under the brackets. The parts book specifies them. I had old rubber "WET OR DRY" squeegees under my Standards brackets. My Master had them missing and it makes a difference on how the hood fits.. The original bolt heads have the Buick script stamped one face of the hex. BOB'S used to show them that way in their catalogs but now the ones I received from them are plain. They have a regular 3/8-24 nut on them. Originally these threaded into a 1/4" thick X 1" wide X 1 1/2" long (approx.size) threaded plate. They were missing on my Standard. My Master has them. The tapped hole is offset so that once the bolt is started in the plate it will lock against the frame. Then only one hand needed to tighten on the top. The use of a wrench/socket below, up in the frame where the front cross member is can be a royal P I T A! The plate is a better idea but still will take 2 people to hold the plate to start. Pictures of 1920s Buick Service signs. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 (edited) 6 hours ago, dibarlaw said: The original bolt heads have the Buick script stamped one face of the hex. BOB'S used to show them that way in their catalogs but now the ones I received from them are plain. They have a regular 3/8-24 nut on them. maybe Be able to find some like this ?? with the script now that I know there are some like this cool thank you for taking the time . So for the signs I am just looking for some cool looking way to show how much we are a team .Effort - crew working on are '' per war old Iron '' I will cut some out and send some out to you guys . we are going to try and make some tomorrow . mark and Larry showed up at the machine shop today my son Darren showing them how it's done on his big CNC after we put some good shirts on ! tomorrow lord willing we should make some cool signs Edited April 12, 2018 by sligermachine (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 Now there's trouble ??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Nelson Posted April 12, 2018 Share Posted April 12, 2018 I love the free thinkers. “What do you mean “can’t do it”. In my world, every thing is possible. It just may be a bit more expensive but still do-able. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 12, 2018 Author Share Posted April 12, 2018 On 4/11/2018 at 11:00 AM, Hubert_25-25 said: I don't know how authentic you are trying to get. as original as I can . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 After I vacuumed it out and cleaned the small shavings up with a tooth pick I was ready to make the new cast iron one fit . After I set the point gap to .020'' of an inch. with a feeler gauge .and 2 7/32 wrench's . assembled it 8 more times just to make sure it was perfect !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 Using the best parts I could I got one ready to set the points nice and square .I noticed The points on some of the'' bottom plates '' the points bolt to were bent and I picked the one that was square ''''' meaning the striking face of the points hit nice and flat and square ''' I have 4 bottom plates and all but one has a small bend in them. Where it makes the points hit at a small angle making the points use only a .02 per cent of the real face for the '' rapid collapse of the field winding to unload it's spark. Making the points ware out fast . Or I am just to picky for my own good.--kyle IT is ready to set the timing up to try and start the engine for the first time .!!!!!! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 By the time Larry Schramm and Mark Shaw wired up the engine ready to test run, start it Larry asked if I had a plug for the open oil line . Good he noticed it I had left it off so I could see the oil pump spray oil when I first spun it up with the starter only last week, before I knew the distributor had a split personality and was ready for retirement anyway. The 93 year old coil was kicking up a good spark nice and blue. Mark was poring some gas in the carburetor and said light it up. Larry was holding a fire extinguisher pointed at the carb. I was wondering if we were starting the BBQ or the car, as I pushed in the starter peddle and let her spin up. It ran for a second the first time in 60 year. I was having a blast. Larry fixed up the timing a bit and we started it again. I did not get any pictures but Larry did It ran like a champ as I watched oil run all over the valve train wile it was running the second time after mark and Larry made a few adjustments .thank you 2 vary much --kyle 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 (edited) Larry is holding the 1923 lights witch one carmover?? Edited April 14, 2018 by sligermachine spelling . (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Light her up...sounds like something Mark would say ? Congrats on getting her going. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 (edited) I will post the first start video as soon as I get home. Home, See below. Edited April 15, 2018 by Larry Schramm (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hubert_25-25 Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Kyle, Congratulations on getting the 25 started. No small task. You called in the right people to assist as well. That is great to know that another 1925 Buick engine is running. I wouldn't be able to sleep tonight. To giddy from a great day. Hugh 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 13, 2018 Author Share Posted April 13, 2018 1 hour ago, Thriller said: Light her up...sounds like something Mark would say ? I might had adlibed a little ? but don't remember I was just floating off the ground :] --kyle 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garnetkid Posted April 13, 2018 Share Posted April 13, 2018 Way to go Kyle, don't you just love it when you bring an old engine back to life!! Leon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sligermachine Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 It just set there idling so nice ! Some picture from per war swap meet today in Bakersfield CA. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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