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I have a couple of them I will line them all up and take a picture all of mine have lots of wear and tear .But I could draw them in dxf. format to duplicate them .I need a few myself.I will get to them in a wile . -Kyle  

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

3 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Terry:

The sill plates on my Master have the part # etched into the rear most area and marked 167565 LT and 167564 RT. The left side front is blistered, worn and torn. It was replaced with a plain sheet of aluminum.  The right side is also pretty worn. The rear ones are still OK.

 

This is the company I purchased sill plates for my 1928 Buick Roadster from

http://www.gardnermotorcars.com/Don_Kuehn.html

 

They don't seem to have a website - I have scanned a copy of an old catalogue showing what they can reproduce I would say the prices quoted are well outdated. The workmanship is exceptional and are the same sills in the earlier photographs.

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3 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Terry:

The sill plates on my Master have the part # etched into the rear most area and marked 167565 LT and 167564 RT. The left side front is blistered, worn and torn. It was replaced with a plain sheet of aluminum.  The right side is also pretty worn. The rear ones are still OK.

 

This is the company I purchased sill plates for my 1928 Buick Roadster from

http://www.gardnermotorcars.com/Don_Kuehn.html

 

They don't seem to have a website - I have scanned a copy of an old catalogue showing what they can reproduce I would say the prices quoted are well outdated. The workmanship is exceptional and are the same sills in the earlier photographs.

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15 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

nice to have a new set of these for the 1922 Model 48.  Kyle, what do you mean by a DXF drawing?  I am most definitely interested in looking into having a new set made.

At my shop we dip aluminum parts that we are a bought to TIG. weld in some light wight conversion coating , that etches in to the aluminum . If you leave it for a 1 hr. or 2 it cuts deep .when I was getting reedy to paint a whole plane I would spray it allover the new aluminum  sheets and thin rinse it right off to etched  the metal so the new paint would stick .

   The end result was a fast etch took off .001 or .0015in just a minute or 2 .  As soon as you drop it in the bucket it looks like it is boiling water . So we go to a sign maker   with a dxf. file  ( drawing of the sill  real long one ) ask him to cut 10 or 20  out of masking sticker which is really cheap sticker . shear up some .060 aluminum to the right size ,stick masking on it paint it any collar take masking tape off and dip it or just spray conversion coating on with spray bottle give it a couple minutes and rinse with water,wash paint off with acetone or paint thinner . as soon as I looked at it for 1 minute that is what came to my mind to duplicate it  . I bet it would cost  50.00 for the stickers  which is the only hard part -- Kyle       

Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)

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Original one in place looks good and fits good ,new one in place fits relay good I was drilling the holes for the bolts in this picture

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On 1/11/2018 at 6:48 PM, sligermachine said:

Anyone have a DXF drawing of this it does not have to be the same size ? the DXF can be sized up and down. 

 

Quick and dirty...

 

1925-door-sill.jpg.4e87e4b8dd3ef54c9f94fec4c9cf23d8.jpg

 

1925 door sill.pdf

 

1925 door sill.dxf

 

Note: the originals aren't precision parts.  Tooling was made by hand, and there wasn't much concern during stamping.   That means straight lines often weren't, things that you might think should be parallel aren't, and features that you think look a little off probably looked that way when they were new (you can see a couple of nicks that look like the die might have chipped).

 

 If you look at door sill in the earlier picture, you'll note that it's not a rectangular piece.  Look at the diamonds along the bottom edge; see how they start to get smaller as you move away from the logo?  If you really want to make a mask for etching this, you'll want to take that into account when you widen the drawing to include all of the diamonds.  The picture I worked from only a few columns; I have no idea how wide the entire piece is.  If the guy cutting the tape is any good, he can do this work in a flash. 

 

Edited by KongaMan (see edit history)
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I had a chance to visit with Don Kuehn this morning about the sill plates in my '22 Model 48.  He can definitely make a set for the car.  We talked about the process and it will take 8-10 months to get the new ones back.  It also turned out that he knows Chris Paulsen who is the current President of The Horseless Carriage Club of America.  We had a good visit and I learned a lot of the details in the acid etching process.  I am going to have the new set made and when I get them I will post photos for everyone.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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My original 25-45 sills were made for specific door openings and included part number at lower left. Also the quality of the etching varies. 167567-LT has a well defined border surrounding the diamonds, and 167564-RT border does not show up at all.

 

kevin

 

alum door sill.jpg

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1 hour ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said:

My original 25-45 sills were made for specific door openings and included part number at lower left. Also the quality of the etching varies. 167567-LT has a well defined border surrounding the diamonds, and 167564-RT border does not show up at all.

 

kevin

 

alum door sill.jpg

 

That is interesting.  I wonder if one of the sill plates were replaced back in history and might for a different year application?  Just a thought.

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9 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

I had a chance to visit with Don Kuehn this morning about the sill plates in my '22 Model 48.  He can definitely make a set for the car.  We talked about the process and it will take 8-10 months to get the new ones back.

 

Good thing you're a young man.

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well I have originals that came  on the car but have a lot of use on them  and about  4 others all different  shapes . now that I started looking for them. 

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On 1/15/2018 at 12:19 AM, KongaMan said:

    If you look at door sill in the earlier picture, you'll note that it's not a rectangular piece.  Look at the diamonds along the bottom edge; see how they start to get smaller as you move away from the logo?  If you really want to make a mask for etching this, you'll want to take that into account when you widen the drawing to include all of the diamonds.  The picture I worked from only a few columns; I have no idea how wide the entire piece is.  If the guy cutting the tape is any good, he can do this work in a flash. 

 Yes all that I found have a lot of flaws in the Diamonds  . Still be real ease to make and we will not yet still have to finish the seat frame.  my wisdom tooth, still slowing me down  .So taking it easier this week -kyle-

Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)

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On 1/8/2018 at 3:04 PM, Brian_Heil said:

Just a thought and hope it's not too late but I wish I had about 2 inches more leg room in my Model 45 but the front seat is fixed.  If I was doing all the wood like you, I would steal a few inches from the back seats excessive leg room.  No one will  know except the smiling driver.

  TRUNK COMPLETE 

the wood making the frame around the back lid opening was the most time consuming part of the whole car,including the lid frame in side the hatch .maybe laminating the wood to start and how long the cuts were . My new frame is slightly wider than the original my wood was just a bit wider  to start and  just left it . stronger is just fine with me . 

  pic. 1 new frame on top of old frame .

  pic.2 I put old floorboard and support in and made marks,the original only has 2 vertical supports 1.75'' x 1''  cut in to the 1.75 thick wood frame. It fills really strong when I tried wiggling it when it was finished . 

  pic.3 comparing the finished shape of mating surface top side I'm really happy with the fit up 

  pic.4 this part really5a64582c47081_20180114_1856181.thumb.jpg.a865fd4f2194c7e5cb34a5981178ed17.jpg needs to be last thing that happens to the wood frame. Or it won't hold the frame tight up to the body .

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the frame is going together really easy I would have never figured the whole wood frame would look like this and it took quite a wile to get it done but I did take time to take a lot of pictures Mark Shaw  asked me to take a shot at a step by step picture set for the whole wood frame so its done I will move all over 1000 pic. of each step and of each cut all done on a ban saw every cut that way if all you have is a ban saw you have it whooped .surely after you look at the whole set of them A person would have A good under standing of each step and how to start I made 2 of every part for this car so now I have 3 complete sets for a 1925 master roadster ( if you need one  PM me )  seeing  I have one more 1927-47  ''Roadster '' in my driveway waiting  to get started on that one is going to be fun .

      Well she is getting close too time for A new coat  . I am going to go get the cobalt blue paint mixed up  I think latter this week I will be able to get my body working tools out!!!

     Now that that 1925 master roadster is more than 90 present finished I will start looking at all the parts I bought -- saved from the junkyard , I could tell the privet airport I found them   setting at had just sold to a land developer .the man I bought them from said more than once  '' I'm glad I found some one that likes old cars I would have just sent them to the junkyard I don't have time to sell them'' .

( As I was looking at 6 earth movers parked on the 40 acres  privet landing strip Now right in the center of the most sought after land for stores or 200 homes would easily fit )

It was overuse he just sold the farm for more money than he had ever thought about having in his whole life I could tell just by talking

to him . Any way -- Kyle    one inch at A time.

pic. # 6 is for Hubert-25-25 

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Edited by sligermachine
2 same pic. (see edit history)

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Kyle,  

     Too bad you have to cover all that nice wood work up with steel.  Thanks for the wiring diagram.   Hugh

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I just could not use the original angel bracket I could tell it was the one that was on the car the bolt hole pattern fits but it only really has room for one bolt on the up right and I want this car to be in grate shape in 60 years from now so I just fabricated  up a new one out of 1/4'' plate and  going to welded it all up . just trying to do a really good job . - kyle

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      Getting the door post to set right ! even after all the bolts are tight ,being as patient as possible - - get out the wood chisel!! after I tighten the screws down the post gets out of square .So I chisel 1/8'' on just 1/2 of the foot print of the side I want the post to lean more towards ,under the brace.--  kyle 

pic. 1-2  setting the nuts in the post good . 

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I clamped 2 parts in a vice and used my counter sinks to see how my screws fit the holes to pick the right size screws per each hole.  

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I found enough  old bolts to do the car but I have to glass bead them first and paint bolts and old brackets  and new welded brackets finely  time to test fit the body .  

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I have the first coat o clear on it . I puled a lot of the screws out but can't change them all at once but soon it will have all original hard ware in it and the brackets will get sand blasted and painted just got the right blue .

  pic. #4 patterns so I can duplicate A 1925-44 master Roadster I kept all the original woodwork two use as patterns. To help anyone making a Roadster to use as patterns .

           WHEN I THOUGHT I DIDN'T HAVE ANY WOOD TO USE AS PATTERS I THOUGHT I WAS OUT OF LUCK TILL I FOUND

            THIS BUICK CLUB of AMERICA  and this forum '' that helped me so much'' .  --kyle   one inch at a time .5a7d62f6a37a8_20180209_0014181.thumb.jpg.513da91ed578b97ab5f4e16bd976f089.jpg

              I will loan this pattern set out as long as you have one on this forum that your working on. I will help you as much as I can .

                I was hoping to be able to make a set or two but my  machine shops gotten so busy i don't think I have the time . 

  

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        All the patterns could be easily cut out with just a ban saw and table saw and hand -held router .and lots of hard -fun work .

I will make a list of wood needed to make each part ,door, trunk, and so on .--Kyle.     

                                                   ps.. I'm getting a lot better with a keyboard !!!  

                                                                one inch at a time. 

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