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On 11/29/2017 at 7:26 AM, Larry Schramm said:

I would recommend joining the VMCCA / Vintage Motor Car Club of America where touring is a way of life.  The local group that I belong to are a great bunch of folks.  My wife and I have had a great time with them.  :)  They are all about having fun and driving the cars.  :)  Nothing more and they do not judge you for the condition of your vehicle,  at least the group we belong to.  Very knowledgeable group that are willing and able to help you get your car running better. :)  They are born to drive.

 

Here is a link to their web site.  http://www.vmcca.org/

 

And application page.  http://www.vmcca.org/join-or-renew/

 

I second that motion as I am in that same VMCCA Nickel Touring Group as Larry. 

 

PM either of us for the 2018 Tour details. 

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Rootlieb in California made these rocker panels that are nailed to the sills.  The fabricate a lot of Model T and Model A sheet metal.  I sent them my old ones, and they did a nice job fabricating new ones.  There is a very slight curve to them that I wish they had put into them.  Although I had to do that part, I was very pleased with the quality.    Hugh 

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  • 5 weeks later...
On 11/12/2017 at 3:45 PM, Hubert_25-25 said:

Kyle, 

   You did well finding that much wood.  The inside of the cowl assembly should look something like this.  This is the sheetmetal support for the toe board that is at an angle.  Then notice the routered groove in the Sill.  That holds the floorboards for the front seat.  This is the right front foot well.  

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You should also have a aluminum threshold plates for the doors ( I think) 

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I would think you will need to make the seat support and add wood into the rear around the edges.

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when the seat is lifted up does the whole thing go up including the steel stip ? 

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Kyle, 

   Only the 5 wood boards that you see hinge up.  The photo that you see is from a 1925 Standard, and you have a 1925 Master, so this drawing from Larry shows that your car has 6 boards (plus the 2 slat boards that hold these together.)  Make your seat compartment cover to Larry's drawing and you should be good.  You should have a metal pan under the seat area.  The metal pan and this cover makes up the under seat storage area.  This is where you would store your side curtains.     Hugh

 

 

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Hugh:

 Actually the tools are usually under the seat. Jack, crank, lug wrench etc. On the Master touring the side curtains go in a compartment in the rear of the front seat.

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On our Standards they have to live under the back seat.

On the roadsters there is to be a compartment in back of the seat for side curtains.

DSCF6033.thumb.JPG.271ea87782c2f558ae1aad089a0291b1.JPGMy friend's 1927 model 54 sport roadster.

 

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Seat frame all done I started disassembly of the whole car that did not take to long I'm going to coat all the wood with clear varnish  no one seemed interested in any wood for their 1925 buicks so I'm just going to assemble this car and call it done .I have doubles of almost every part that takes longer than 20 min to make  to program a cnc to make I really figured at least one person would like a set . Best part is my whole wood shop is set up now I have had the majority of this just put away I seem to never take any time off from work for my own fun projects. I had made a set of round wood rizers to hold up the seat frame  but I decided I would rather make it stock as possible so I made a new set like Hue-25-25 car looks really cool . 

Pic. 1 the 4 parts that make the bottom seat frame I made them lap really heavy so that they would never break like a wood boat frame

pic.2 reshaped the cross member under the seat 

pic. 3 that part looks  EZ under the seat right 

pic. 5 I made cuts in the cardboard so it would fold up like a 3.5 x 1.75 bord cut it to fit and used it like a pattern for the 4 angle cut to                 ----make the seat rizer the right shape the first time .

pic. 7 made this seat rizer by setting it on top of 2 spacers same size above the boards using 2 squares to mark the cuts this did not work as good had to sand down to fit .hard to get all 4 angles at same time like this but I took pictures of both ways I will post all of them right under this -- KYLE - ONE INCH AT A TIME 

 

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Kyle, in the second photo of posting #45, where did you get the brand-new looking aluminum sill plates?  My 1922 Model 48 Coupe uses this same style plate only with the car having just two doors, they are much longer.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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Terry, 

    That photo came from me, and I am not sure where I got it.  There is a note in the Bob's Automobilia catalog that they have a contact that can make sills to your specifications if you do not see your sill plates in their catalog.    Hugh 

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Just a thought and hope it's not too late but I wish I had about 2 inches more leg room in my Model 45 but the front seat is fixed.  If I was doing all the wood like you, I would steal a few inches from the back seats excessive leg room.  No one will  know except the smiling driver.

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the curved cuts go way better if u wax your blade .I like 3 teeth per inch with a rake of .065  per tooth .I have the speed set on saw at wide open high speed .On the curve part the seam in this curve I taped mt ruler underside so I could get the whole part drawn while clamped down without moving it around and get the parting line wright .the second part needs to be realigned with the grain of the wood to be as strong as possible. -Kyle 

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this picture .I will explain I picked the big side to trace and I'm drawing the small side on top of the big side .AT 5 deg you can see how the blade is going to run  .I used a couple of marks to move the small curve dimensions from the original narrow side .with this drawing I will set the table angle up. Now remember its 1/8 to big from tracing around the outside it get bigger that gives you room to make it fit better  that's next picture  -Kyle 

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Kyle,

 

Back to the door sills, for a second.....

I got mine from Door Sills LLC (who would have guessed?). Don Kuehn is the boss, 973-423-1196. He is located in New Jersey.

He did a great job. They are identical to the original and made from aluminum just like the original.

 

Dave

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On 1/8/2018 at 3:04 PM, Brian_Heil said:

f I was doing all the wood like you, I would steal a few inches from the back

I made 2 bottom sets of wood to do one to fit me at 5'11'' and one stock but we will see how that plays out as I do some interior work and get price on black leather .so far no luck in my town 

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12 hours ago, Dave_B said:

I got mine from Door Sills LLC

I tried to call today but instead I spent my lunch time sending a valve lifter for a 1925 buick  to Hubert_25-25 .How much did they cost? did they make them or have a few ready ? I have old ones but in bad shape sills that is 

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Kyle, 

I got mine about 15 or 20 years ago so I don’t remember the cost plus the price has probably gone up. I sent them my old ones and they made the new ones and sent everything back. I think the they are made to order. Mine were rough too but the new ones were a thing to behold. 

Dave

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Kyle and Terry

 

The fellow at Doorsills LLC is Don Kuehn. really nice fellow  and does a very nice job.

They are made to order and involve etching so how much likely depends on if he already has a pattern he can use. I bought a set for another marque's cabriolet about a year ago so I would expect that If he has the pattern, you are looking at around $250.

 

Brad

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On 1/6/2018 at 1:31 PM, dibarlaw said:

My friend's 1927 model 54 sport roadster.

Could you describe how deep the the opening is behind the seat I think this is the last part of the woodwork I have to do before the car is complet and I would like it to be as original as possible ! with out old wood on this part I just need a good guess at how deep the pocket is  the seat kind of forces it to match the shape l  thank you in advance --Kyle 

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As I have cut the outside frame 4 members now I line them up on the outside of the trunk and cheek the body line shape and sand any high spots down .I did the same thing to the inside frame of the trunk  to the body around the opening so the whole set should match really good when clamped tight to the body inside flange .nothing looks worse than body lines that don't match --Kyle

 

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On 11/20/2017 at 11:49 PM, dibarlaw said:

Kyle:

 If your car is a model 44 it would have the wheel with the painted spider.5a13afc35bc1c_1924-44int.png.0cefdf29fb8e98a02f72427f9e2d738d.png Photo of a 1924-44 roadster. 

I see what you have on the car is a 1928 wheel. The model 55 sport touring and model 54 sport roadster would have a spider with walnut spokes.

3538570.jpg.0209d33b09623aa00e15f7268d0fd46f.jpg  Photo of 1925-55 Sport Touring.

Some of the other Master cars had the aluminum spiders polished. I am pulling apart my spare wheel/ column/box assembly right now. My spare has a nickeled column jacket and is for a sedan.

 

 

So much original detail is lost over time, some of the pictures of steering wheel spiders and columns painted black I had thought were either to combat corrosion or oxidation, or because 4 cylinder and later standard cars weren't meant to be as fancy and shiny as their longer wheelbase brothers.

 

My 27-54CC had black paint over nickeled steering column because the nickel had failed and was an eyesore. Now, rechromed. 

 

As years went by in production, more and more parts were plated.  The 24-45 touring front and rear window frames painted black, the 27-25 standard touring both are plated. 

 

The only thing I have seen in writing is from my 27 shop manual reprint, that states as a specification, that the standard steering column jacket is black, the master is nickel. 

 

This is the first time I had heard of an upper series car, model 44, having a painted spider steering wheel.  Interesting.  Do you have a literature source for that information? 

 

 

 

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In regard to the Aluminum door sill plates - if I am thinking correctly, these plates will be identical to one another, or to put it another way, both sides will be exactly the same.  Am I on the right track here?  It sure would be nice to have a new set of these for the 1922 Model 48.  Kyle, what do you mean by a DXF drawing?  I am most definitely interested in looking into having a new set made.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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1 hour ago, dibarlaw said:

Don:

 I have about 10 pages of period 1925 Specifications Here is the page noted.aap_sized17.jpg.dbb7178a621af32ac1b953523a1fefc1.jpg

 

That is great information, I stand corrected! 

 

If I only knew why Buick designers made those choices and decisions, I could make some sense if it. 

 

Is there any additional information on details in your specifications that you could share? 

 

I have wondered for some time about this black detail on headlight trim bezels and whether it was original.  If it is, were the parking light bezels detailed to match? 

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Don:

 Here is the correct pattern of how the bezels are painted. The outer most portion is painted

5a5b9d320625b_1925-55Front.thumb.jpg.1685d51bdcda753a1285c1dbb36fb270.jpg  From a period 1925 advertising photo. Most restored cars I have seen have had this detail either polished off or re-plated and not replaced.

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   I painted mine according to that image. I also have a set of NOS bezels that have about 90% of the original paint on them. And yes, the cowl/parking light bezels should be the same.  I had an old cowl light set I bought, before they were cleaned up a lot of black paint on that outside face was still visible.

 

5a5b9dbf048e5_1924Ad.thumb.jpg.f3ae174af235b7debf208cefe264f4a8.jpg1924 model 45 ad.

My friends other 1927-54 sport roadster showing remnants of the painted bezels. This is an unrestored car. Only one repaint and re-topping in the late 1940s.DSCF2259.thumb.JPG.1ff463125f6f32e20a2a85e3bb738cce.JPG

 

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2 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

In regard to the Aluminum door sill plates - if I am thinking correctly, these plates will be identical to one another, or to put it another way, both sides will be exactly the same.  Am I on the right track here?  It sure would be nice to have a new set of these for the 1922 Model 48.  Kyle, what do you mean by a DXF drawing?  I am most definitely interested in looking into having a new set made.IMG_0119.thumb.jpg.5e08c5f18a2ac44c27a90342b40ea1cb.jpg

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

Terry:

The sill plates on my Master have the part # etched into the rear most area and marked 167565 LT and 167564 RT. The left side front is blistered, worn and torn. It was replaced with a plain sheet of aluminum.  The right side is also pretty worn. The rear ones are still OK.

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14 minutes ago, dibarlaw said:

new set of these for the 1922 Model 48.  Kyle, what do you mean by a DXF drawing?  I am most definitely interested in looking into having a new set made.

I could draw this in CAD   to reproduce the identical part but need it drawn first in  DXF. format it is a drawing format that works with c.n.c.'s to make stuff .-Kyle

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3 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Terry:

The sill plates on my Master have the part # etched into the rear most area and marked 167565 LT and 167564 RT. The left side front is blistered, worn and torn. It was replaced with a plain sheet of aluminum.  The right side is also pretty worn. The rear ones are still OK.

 

This is the company I purchased sill plates for my 1928 Buick Roadster from

http://www.gardnermotorcars.com/Don_Kuehn.html

 

They don't seem to have a website - I have scanned a copy of an old catalogue showing what they can reproduce I would say the prices quoted are well outdated. The workmanship is exceptional and are the same sills in the earlier photographs.

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3 hours ago, dibarlaw said:

Terry:

The sill plates on my Master have the part # etched into the rear most area and marked 167565 LT and 167564 RT. The left side front is blistered, worn and torn. It was replaced with a plain sheet of aluminum.  The right side is also pretty worn. The rear ones are still OK.

 

This is the company I purchased sill plates for my 1928 Buick Roadster from

http://www.gardnermotorcars.com/Don_Kuehn.html

 

They don't seem to have a website - I have scanned a copy of an old catalogue showing what they can reproduce I would say the prices quoted are well outdated. The workmanship is exceptional and are the same sills in the earlier photographs.

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15 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

nice to have a new set of these for the 1922 Model 48.  Kyle, what do you mean by a DXF drawing?  I am most definitely interested in looking into having a new set made.

At my shop we dip aluminum parts that we are a bought to TIG. weld in some light wight conversion coating , that etches in to the aluminum . If you leave it for a 1 hr. or 2 it cuts deep .when I was getting reedy to paint a whole plane I would spray it allover the new aluminum  sheets and thin rinse it right off to etched  the metal so the new paint would stick .

   The end result was a fast etch took off .001 or .0015in just a minute or 2 .  As soon as you drop it in the bucket it looks like it is boiling water . So we go to a sign maker   with a dxf. file  ( drawing of the sill  real long one ) ask him to cut 10 or 20  out of masking sticker which is really cheap sticker . shear up some .060 aluminum to the right size ,stick masking on it paint it any collar take masking tape off and dip it or just spray conversion coating on with spray bottle give it a couple minutes and rinse with water,wash paint off with acetone or paint thinner . as soon as I looked at it for 1 minute that is what came to my mind to duplicate it  . I bet it would cost  50.00 for the stickers  which is the only hard part -- Kyle       

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