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On 1/11/2018 at 6:48 PM, sligermachine said:

Anyone have a DXF drawing of this it does not have to be the same size ? the DXF can be sized up and down. 

 

Quick and dirty...

 

1925-door-sill.jpg.4e87e4b8dd3ef54c9f94fec4c9cf23d8.jpg

 

1925 door sill.pdf

 

1925 door sill.dxf

 

Note: the originals aren't precision parts.  Tooling was made by hand, and there wasn't much concern during stamping.   That means straight lines often weren't, things that you might think should be parallel aren't, and features that you think look a little off probably looked that way when they were new (you can see a couple of nicks that look like the die might have chipped).

 

 If you look at door sill in the earlier picture, you'll note that it's not a rectangular piece.  Look at the diamonds along the bottom edge; see how they start to get smaller as you move away from the logo?  If you really want to make a mask for etching this, you'll want to take that into account when you widen the drawing to include all of the diamonds.  The picture I worked from only a few columns; I have no idea how wide the entire piece is.  If the guy cutting the tape is any good, he can do this work in a flash. 

 

Edited by KongaMan (see edit history)
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I had a chance to visit with Don Kuehn this morning about the sill plates in my '22 Model 48.  He can definitely make a set for the car.  We talked about the process and it will take 8-10 months to get the new ones back.  It also turned out that he knows Chris Paulsen who is the current President of The Horseless Carriage Club of America.  We had a good visit and I learned a lot of the details in the acid etching process.  I am going to have the new set made and when I get them I will post photos for everyone.

 

Terry Wiegand

South Hutchinson, Kansas

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1 hour ago, Oregon Desert model 45 said:

My original 25-45 sills were made for specific door openings and included part number at lower left. Also the quality of the etching varies. 167567-LT has a well defined border surrounding the diamonds, and 167564-RT border does not show up at all.

 

kevin

 

alum door sill.jpg

 

That is interesting.  I wonder if one of the sill plates were replaced back in history and might for a different year application?  Just a thought.

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9 hours ago, Terry Wiegand said:

I had a chance to visit with Don Kuehn this morning about the sill plates in my '22 Model 48.  He can definitely make a set for the car.  We talked about the process and it will take 8-10 months to get the new ones back.

 

Good thing you're a young man.

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On 1/15/2018 at 12:19 AM, KongaMan said:

    If you look at door sill in the earlier picture, you'll note that it's not a rectangular piece.  Look at the diamonds along the bottom edge; see how they start to get smaller as you move away from the logo?  If you really want to make a mask for etching this, you'll want to take that into account when you widen the drawing to include all of the diamonds.  The picture I worked from only a few columns; I have no idea how wide the entire piece is.  If the guy cutting the tape is any good, he can do this work in a flash. 

 Yes all that I found have a lot of flaws in the Diamonds  . Still be real ease to make and we will not yet still have to finish the seat frame.  my wisdom tooth, still slowing me down  .So taking it easier this week -kyle-

Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)
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On 1/8/2018 at 3:04 PM, Brian_Heil said:

Just a thought and hope it's not too late but I wish I had about 2 inches more leg room in my Model 45 but the front seat is fixed.  If I was doing all the wood like you, I would steal a few inches from the back seats excessive leg room.  No one will  know except the smiling driver.

  TRUNK COMPLETE 

the wood making the frame around the back lid opening was the most time consuming part of the whole car,including the lid frame in side the hatch .maybe laminating the wood to start and how long the cuts were . My new frame is slightly wider than the original my wood was just a bit wider  to start and  just left it . stronger is just fine with me . 

  pic. 1 new frame on top of old frame .

  pic.2 I put old floorboard and support in and made marks,the original only has 2 vertical supports 1.75'' x 1''  cut in to the 1.75 thick wood frame. It fills really strong when I tried wiggling it when it was finished . 

  pic.3 comparing the finished shape of mating surface top side I'm really happy with the fit up 

  pic.4 this part really5a64582c47081_20180114_1856181.thumb.jpg.a865fd4f2194c7e5cb34a5981178ed17.jpg needs to be last thing that happens to the wood frame. Or it won't hold the frame tight up to the body .

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the frame is going together really easy I would have never figured the whole wood frame would look like this and it took quite a wile to get it done but I did take time to take a lot of pictures Mark Shaw  asked me to take a shot at a step by step picture set for the whole wood frame so its done I will move all over 1000 pic. of each step and of each cut all done on a ban saw every cut that way if all you have is a ban saw you have it whooped .surely after you look at the whole set of them A person would have A good under standing of each step and how to start I made 2 of every part for this car so now I have 3 complete sets for a 1925 master roadster ( if you need one  PM me )  seeing  I have one more 1927-47  ''Roadster '' in my driveway waiting  to get started on that one is going to be fun .

      Well she is getting close too time for A new coat  . I am going to go get the cobalt blue paint mixed up  I think latter this week I will be able to get my body working tools out!!!

     Now that that 1925 master roadster is more than 90 present finished I will start looking at all the parts I bought -- saved from the junkyard , I could tell the privet airport I found them   setting at had just sold to a land developer .the man I bought them from said more than once  '' I'm glad I found some one that likes old cars I would have just sent them to the junkyard I don't have time to sell them'' .

( As I was looking at 6 earth movers parked on the 40 acres  privet landing strip Now right in the center of the most sought after land for stores or 200 homes would easily fit )

It was overuse he just sold the farm for more money than he had ever thought about having in his whole life I could tell just by talking

to him . Any way -- Kyle    one inch at A time.

pic. # 6 is for Hubert-25-25 

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Edited by sligermachine
2 same pic. (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...

I just could not use the original angel bracket I could tell it was the one that was on the car the bolt hole pattern fits but it only really has room for one bolt on the up right and I want this car to be in grate shape in 60 years from now so I just fabricated  up a new one out of 1/4'' plate and  going to welded it all up . just trying to do a really good job . - kyle

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      Getting the door post to set right ! even after all the bolts are tight ,being as patient as possible - - get out the wood chisel!! after I tighten the screws down the post gets out of square .So I chisel 1/8'' on just 1/2 of the foot print of the side I want the post to lean more towards ,under the brace.--  kyle 

pic. 1-2  setting the nuts in the post good . 

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I have the first coat o clear on it . I puled a lot of the screws out but can't change them all at once but soon it will have all original hard ware in it and the brackets will get sand blasted and painted just got the right blue .

  pic. #4 patterns so I can duplicate A 1925-44 master Roadster I kept all the original woodwork two use as patterns. To help anyone making a Roadster to use as patterns .

           WHEN I THOUGHT I DIDN'T HAVE ANY WOOD TO USE AS PATTERS I THOUGHT I WAS OUT OF LUCK TILL I FOUND

            THIS BUICK CLUB of AMERICA  and this forum '' that helped me so much'' .  --kyle   one inch at a time .5a7d62f6a37a8_20180209_0014181.thumb.jpg.513da91ed578b97ab5f4e16bd976f089.jpg

              I will loan this pattern set out as long as you have one on this forum that your working on. I will help you as much as I can .

                I was hoping to be able to make a set or two but my  machine shops gotten so busy i don't think I have the time . 

  

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        All the patterns could be easily cut out with just a ban saw and table saw and hand -held router .and lots of hard -fun work .

I will make a list of wood needed to make each part ,door, trunk, and so on .--Kyle.     

                                                   ps.. I'm getting a lot better with a keyboard !!!  

                                                                one inch at a time. 

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On 2/9/2018 at 6:13 PM, JoelsBuicks said:

Incredible work!  Thanks for sharing it and thanks for letting us in on those clever techniques.  I try to do some of this and you make it look easy and you are having fun with it.

 

Keep posting!

Joel 

This is the bottom of trunk  .the small angle is the important part to stop the skin from rusting   it stops moisture from collecting in the corner  . lets it drip out and dry off maybe 3 deg grind with belt sander . and paint with clear .

  pic. #4 the skin fits like new getting close to my favorite part paint and body !!!!

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the wood lined up nice . I was worried it would not line up after I bolted it all together tight .I had made 3 lines on the posts so I could tell if it was in the sane spot after I had to disassemble the whole thing to make a cut deeper 1/8'' clearance for door hinges .I was trying to make it stronger by cutting less wood away. that took way to long to take it all apart but I needed to get to the big screws  on the bottom of the post holding the doors on  to get them back in the mill 

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Kyle - I was hoping you would figure out easy way to get the cowl sheetmetal back over the doorposts and under structure without bending anything. This is where mine gets stuck.  My body wood is not yet fastened together, so I have been stuffing the sills under the cowl first one, then the other, tipped at an angle to get the door post into it's notch in the sill, then the sills can lay down flat. But the door post is not yet fastened to the sill, and its kinda loose under the sheetmetal.  I am going to try removing the upper tack wood strip and see if that gives enough clearance to pull the sheetmetal over the sills and structure.

 

Kevin

stuck.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2/16/2018 at 8:26 PM, Thriller said:

 

 

wow the top part on mine is bolted inside the dash and under a sheet of steel with steel bracket sticking out .I will take picture today and post it . Can you put more pic. from under dash ?  -  kyle

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  • 4 weeks later...

The wood being 90 percent . I have been trying to get it running this weekend . here is the new battery box riveted out of some nice steel and hand formed to look like the original . the first dry run is good got some oil pressure up wile turning it over with the starter .now to figure out timing and coil .

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The wood being 90 percent . I have been trying to get it running this weekend . here is the new battery box riveted out of some nice steel and hand formed to look like the original . the first dry run is good got some oil pressure up wile turning it over with the starter .now to figure out timing and coil . I have been hitting the ears on the lower linkage  hold down bracket .- the distributor is stuck  big time 100 hits  it moved 1/16''

I can keep hitting it ???. any body input welcome 

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Edited by sligermachine (see edit history)
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Kyle, I assume you are trying to loosen the dist.  Did you forget to loosen the small (3/8"or 7/16"?? can't remember which) bolt at the bottom of the dist that is there to loosen and tighten the dist?  Leon

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Kyle

 

The original distributor is made of pot metal which swells when it eventually goes bad. And it will eventually go bad! After that happens, you are usually breaking the distributor to remove it.

The distributor can be replaced with a later cast Iron one ( or earlier;  I ended up converting a 1923-24 4cyl distributor ). See if your current distributor holds a magnet which should tell us whether someone has already replaced it .

The original distributor caps used 9MM plug wires.Some people use a much newer distributor that will take a later standard 6cyl GM cap and standard 7MM plug wires.

 

Careful hitting on the distributor , the cast iron end of the SG unit that holds the distributor can break and that part can be harder to find than the distributor !

I once  thought it would be interesting to try and get the distributors re-popped in aluminum. Maybe your CNC skills can come up with something?!!! The downside to that is that you would end up back at the hard to find caps and wires.

Brad

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Yes must have swelled up I have removed all bolts I think  all are out .I will look with a mirror at the under side .I just hate to hit the distributor I sprayed oil on it last night maybe this morning the oil will have helped .--kyle 

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Kyle, I hope this photo helps.  I will send you more information on the distributor replacement, I just want to help you get this one out.  As long as you don't break the big section of the housing, you may have something salvageable.

Hugh

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Kyle, 

     I also assume that you have removed this screw already.  This is on the engine side of the distributor base.   It holds the distributor down but also allows the distributor to rotate when you move the spark advance.   Brian Heil sent me this photo, and it looks like more than just a regular screw.  Perhaps a shouldered screw and a spring, and maybe a tiny cup washer?  Can you send me a photo of this, and I may need dimensions of this screw and any associated parts.  My car was disassembled and I am not exactly sure which screw goes here.    Thank you.

Hugh

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Kyle, 

     It sounds like you are close to starting your motor.  Since the distributor is frozen from expanded pot metal, you may have other pot metal parts that may work, but could break if forced.    The steering spark advance and throttle pieces should rotate smoothly with no rods attached.  Is this the case?  Both gear sets at the base of the steering column should turn easily.  At the horn lever ends, there are also shoes and a spring that cause some drag on the spark and throttle levers.  I have thick gear oil in my steering column that I have to clean out as it has the spark and throttle parts drug down in the molasses.  The throttle plate should move freely as well.     Hugh

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Kyle, 

     I also noticed that you are missing your radiator hoses.  There are 4.  Your hoses are the 1 1/4" ID hoses.  I labeled them with an M for Master.  My Buick Standard hoses are the 1 1/8" ID hoses.  If you want authentic clamps, you need to get them from Bob's.  Also verify the length of the top hose listed for your car as I was not entirely sure if this one is correct, but the others are.    Hugh

 

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