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Steering wheel removal


Den41Buick

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I need to remove my steering wheel from my 41 Buick to replace the shifter housing. I do not have a puller. Can I get it off without a puller? Has anyone removed one before? If so, I would appreciate tips. Thanks

 

DE

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A steering wheel puller is cheaper than buying another steering wheel.;)

 

The cheap disc type usually works.

 

http://www.jegs.com/i/Grant/470/5891/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710710325&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=15769068431&CATCI=pla-191844202151&CATARGETID=230006180037474942&cadevice=c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIrNe40K7x1QIVwY5-Ch0Z6Q12EAQYAiABEgKOuvD_BwE

 

Or you can buy the $20 heavy duty looking type.

 

Then there is the drill two holes correctly spaced in a 1 x 1 angle iron and tighten them against the steering shaft. Has been known to work, YMMV.

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The 41 has also the horn contact cable in the center of the shaft?....

Then you must remove it first . 

don't push with the Srew from the tool onto this contact.

the shaft you must protect it too, dont let the tool screw run directly on the shaft.

In my case i pull the wheel without tool from the shaft...im loosen the nut NOT COMPLETELY OF !!! and step with one feet betwern my pedals an pull it alternate left and right more and less .I handle the wheel at the half way of the struts.

Mostly it works.....in my case..;-)

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Yes, it does have the horn contact in the center. Do it unscrew or pull out? I looked at it last night and though I may have an issue. Thanks

 

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Greetings

I have taken many of these buick steering wheels off. First, DO NOT REMOVE THE WIRE CONNECTOR! After you loosen the nut, Use the right size socket against the nut to "bridge over" the wire end. I use three long screws I took out of the case of an electric motor(had to file the heads just a little to get them thru the "key" slots in the wheel hub). Yes you need a three leg puller. Dont risk bending or breaking the wheel pounding or prying. I put my 1/2" cordless impact on the puller. Quick snap on the trigger and the wheel pops quickly against the nut loosened till its flush with the top of the steering shaft. Hope that helps. If not clear let me know and I can take a photo of the setup on the wheel ready to remove.

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UPDATE:

 

I stopped at O'Reilly Auto Parts. I borrowed a steering wheel puller from them at no charge. Seems they lend tools (they put a hold on your CC) for two days. Good deal.

 

I then decided tackle the wheel after dinner. I removed the cap, then loosened the nut. To my surprise the nut loosened up easily. I removed the nut and the locking washer. With that the wheel literally popped off... No need for the tool! My real project is replacing the shifter housing unit (pot metal). I managed to start removing it till the dog needed a walk. I will attack the removal of the housing tomorrow morning.

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UPDATE:

 

Finished the project yesterday. Removed the wheel on Friday and removed and replaced the shifter housing. Make sure you keep track of parts and order removed. I did make a reference point on the steering wheel before I removed it. Not sure but with the play in my wheel,  it is not lined up perfectly when driving..

 

 

 

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  • 5 years later...

Got the nut off just now , now tmrw gonna look and see how to remove the horn wire so I don’t do any damage to it.. This is my first time ever doing anything like this.

 

Hoping for positive results tmrw morning.

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47 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said:

Got the nut off just now , now tmrw gonna look and see how to remove the horn wire so I don’t do any damage to it.. This is my first time ever doing anything like this.

 

Hoping for positive results tmrw morning.

If you are referring to your 1938 Buick, you do not need to remove the horn wire. In my experience on a 1938, after you remove the nut, you can generally tap upwards on the back side of the center section near the column a couple of timesaround all sides of the wheel near the spokes with a rubber mallet and the wheel will come off.

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3 minutes ago, BuickTom87 said:

Sorry should of specified it’s for a 41Buick century 

I don't have any experience with a 1941, but I would certainly suspect it to be similar.  I would confirm that you need to remove the wire before attempting it. If it is a single contact in the center like the 1938 horn wire contact, it likely does not need to be removed to remove the steering wheel.  

Edited by MCHinson (see edit history)
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If you're addressing me, I did not have to use a steering wheel puller.  (I had a puller, but it did not work with the three-bolt pattern of the Buick.)  Instead, I used a piece of 2X4 laid along the bottom side of the steering column up against the base of the wheel.  A few hits with a hammer on the wood, and the wheel popped loose.  (It's important that you NOT take the nut all the way off before doing this.  Just loosen it until it is flush with the top of the steering tube, as recommended in the Shop Manual.  Otherwise, the wheel could fly off.)  Once it has popped loose from the splines, you can finish removing the nut and the wheel comes right off.

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I don`t know about the Buick wheel, but on a `35-`36 Pontiac, i drill and tap 2 holes, so i can use a puller. I must say, i used Neils method for decades, but positioned i myself to use my knees under the wheel, to apply upward pressure. Also mark the wheel and shaft, so you can put it back in the same position.

Edited by pont35cpe (see edit history)
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  • 6 months later...

Since I had to dismantle my steering wheel I take the opportunity here to share my experience. 
Important points:

  • I am talking about a 1938 Buick with the flexible spoke wheel, aka Banjo Steering Wheel. Removing the horn button from a solid spoke wheel is different
  • never pull or push with brute force on the wheel itself but on the hub only, if needed at all. The steering wheel is simply too expensive to break by doing this.
  • as mentioned above do NOT remove the horn contact in the middle of the steering column! Just leave it as it is. The nut comes off over the contact.
  1. First remove the three screws on the bottom of the hub. These are embedded, but you can get to them easily with a short screwdriver.
  2. Then you can remove the outer ring, together with the emblem plate and the horn operating ring, together with the soft rubber insulator.
  3. Bend back the tabs on the locking washer that hold the nut in place so that the nut can rotate freely.
  4. Release the nut. Should come of easily I was able to do this without tools, pushing the hub against the column against the spring. The steering wheel then moved away from the steering column on its own with the spring pressure. Otherwise slightly tab from underneath (on the hub!) or try to wiggle the wheel carefully.

Installation is done in reverse order.

Install the nut by pushing the hub down on the column. I tightened it only slightly, actually only turned it until a tab from the lock washer fit on the nut. I also only pressed one tab back onto the nut, saving the other for an other steering wheel removal🙂. They break easily after bending a few times up and down. The spokes and the spring on the column and one or two tabs fix the steering wheel enough.

 

Good luck, it's a simple job. If everything runs smoothly done in less then 15 minutes.

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On 12/12/2022 at 11:08 PM, neil morse said:

Instead, I used a piece of 2X4 laid along the bottom side of the steering column up against the base of the wheel.  A few hits with a hammer on the wood, and the wheel popped loose.  (It's important that you NOT take the nut all the way off before doing this.  Just loosen it until it is flush with the top of the steering tube, as recommended in the Shop Manual.

Did this yesterday to fix a way too touchy horn ring and rotate the wheel to its proper orientation.  Three taps, worked like a charm.

Edited by XLNDRVR
Left out most important reason for taking wheel off. (see edit history)
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