dracenroc

I installed 1183N6 five years ago, runs without any problems, on a 248 ci

Since I had to dismantle my steering wheel I take the opportunity here to share my experience. Important points: I am talking about a 1938 Buick with the flexible spoke wheel, aka Banjo Steering Wheel. Removing the horn button from a solid spoke wheel is different never pull or push with brute force on the wheel itself but on the hub only, if needed at all. The steering wheel is simply too expensive to break by doing this. as mentioned above do NOT remove the horn contact in the middle of the steering column! Just leave it as it is. The nut comes off over the contact. First remove the three screws on the bottom of the hub. These are embedded, but you can get to them easily with a short screwdriver. Then you can remove the outer ring, together with the emblem plate and the horn operating ring, together with the soft rubber insulator. Bend back the tabs on the locking washer that hold the nut in place so that the nut can rotate freely. Release the nut. Should come of easily I was able to do this without tools, pushing the hub against the column against the spring. The steering wheel then moved away from the steering column on its own with the spring pressure. Otherwise slightly tab from underneath (on the hub!) or try to wiggle the wheel carefully. Installation is done in reverse order. Install the nut by pushing the hub down on the column. I tightened it only slightly, actually only turned it until a tab from the lock washer fit on the nut. I also only pressed one tab back onto the nut, saving the other for an other steering wheel removal🙂. They break easily after bending a few times up and down. The spokes and the spring on the column and one or two tabs fix the steering wheel enough. Good luck, it's a simple job. If everything runs smoothly done in less then 15 minutes.

Finally found the anchor point on the bracket attached to the frame holding the master cylinder. It's slightly different then on the '37. Bracket is closer attached to the frame on the '38, makes it more difficult to detach the master. Loosening the bracket and slide out the brake pedal a bit gives access to the master cylinder bolts. Was the easiest way for me to remove the master cylinder. All in place again I couldn't see the hole above the cylinder 🙂 Thanks for your help Gary!

I'm not sure if the bumpers are attached correctly on mine. I Guess a restoration was done in the early '80s and it could be the bumpers have been where you mentioned. But since the guides makes the gap a bit smaller it could be you can not close the lid if they will be positioned there? I also checked out the Fisher Bodies manual. Rubber Bumpers are mentioned but there is no picture or position apparent. Its mentioned that you can attach a "deck lid guide plate" and than "the two rubber bumpers on the lid may either be left on or removed as desired" when the guide plate is installed. Found this by going through the manual again:

Not sure if you mean the rubber bumpers on either side, if so hope this helps, its a 1938 coupe, took a while since my lift was broken, car stocked 8ft above ground😆 Lower hole is about 4 inches from the bottom of the lid, measured while holding a level on the lids curved lover end to get a straight line. Lower edge of bumper is in line with lower taillight.

Thanks for your help. The 40's have no spring extension and probably not the same anchor point but it helps me where to have a closer look in search for the anchor point.

I thought this will never happen to me but I don't remember where the return spring for the brake pedal is attached. Actually it should have been just a one day brake overhaul job but since some other things came in between I dismantled it weeks ago and didn't make any pictures. Can anyone post a picture where the spring is attached (both sides) for an '38 Special? Thanks!

Had the same problem as you. I'm using a converted electronic ignition with a common wire set like available from Bob's. I guess I use the Pertronix coil too but not sure since I changed the system 6 or seven years ago. I remember I had some trouble with misfiring ignition wires too. As far as I remember the problem was coming from the slot the wires go under the cover. The picture was made quite some time ago and I'm not sure if this was the only spot making trouble. Not sure if the point identified by the arrow is an additional isolation I added at this time. A lot of "not sure" and "maybes" but I suggest you should check this point too. If I'm on the car the next time I can have a closer look and come back.

Don't know a website or other ID source's but the the one on top is installed on my 1928-51 and according to the "1928 Buick 120 & 128 Series Parts Book" available in 7 different colors (top of the cap, behind the BUICK letters) Mine have been re-chromed, thats why they are not colored

Thanks to all for the Information! @NailheadBob: I have seen the NOS cylinders from old obsolete, won't go that far. Bores on mine are really bad, rusty and a lot of dirt in it, wondering that they worked like this. Don't know when the last brake job was done but must be quite along time ago. In front are EIS 521 P4 and the rear ones are 5450216, Delco, I guess, don't have them in front of me right now. So actually they are really rotten and I don't want to rebuild them. @MCHinson: I googled the front part #53... quickly but couldn't find anything similar, will check out the other numbers, too. The rear ..214 are easy to find, thanks. @EmTee: Thanks for sharing your experience. Most probably I will do it the same way, replace them all with a "set", no matter if front cylinder bore might be a little more then specified. Best, Werner

Does anyone have an idea for replacement wheel cylinders for a 1938 Series40? I'm looking for original bore front cylinders (1" 3/32) with 3/8 inlet thread size which according parts book are part# GM 5450472 & ...71. No NOS, replacement is fine. I know one can install replacement type cylinders with different bores as Bob's offers it as an example but I hope to find some with the correct bore. Its easy to find rear 1" bore cylinder replacements. Some front 1" 3/32 bore cylinders are popping up too by searching the web but I'm not able to catch all the information from this offers in order to figure out if it will fit or not. So probably someone knows a replacement part number. Thanks!

Hi Roger - don't know exactly what you mean....part #182262?

Rod, I had the same problem and needed to rebuild the gauge system. Probably this helps:

Just a thought: I converted my '38 to electronic ignition. Since I try to keep everything original it hurts a little in the heart but i have never regretted this step with all my old vehicles.

Rod, looks like the oil gauge rod tube No 180434

Have you checked this out ? https://forums.aaca.org/topic/169217-general-motors-gmbh-berlin-borsigwalde/ I’m not an expert on this, but since there was also a GM plant in Switzerland, I know that at hat time the import taxes for finished cars were higher than for car parts. GM therefore built various plants in Europe, including in Berlin Borsigwalde in a part of a former arms factory. The wagons were assembled from delivered parts and partially modified to meet local regulations.

Dave, the emblem is definitely not engraved. Must be some kind of a stamp or etching.

I'm not a collector and have no clue about watches, except how to read the time 🙂 This watch was a present from a friend of mine and I have no idea where it comes from, when he bought it and how much he paid for it. I' was just wondering if someone knows anything about the make and year of the watch, if it was a giveaway at some reason or whatever. Thank you for all the answers!

There is nothing about a brand/maker visible inside. Just "made in USA" and three figure "5" engraved. One single "5" a bit bigger than the other double "55".

Can anyone tell me something more about this pocket watch? Thank you!

I don't have any information about the Standard. On my Master I have lenses from "Guide Motor Lamp Mfg. Company, Cleveland, OH". This is the information from the parts Book. (part number GL-149). Cast is "TILTRAY HEADLAMP GUIDE" As you have a different part number the standard may have different lenses.

I don't know the make of the mirrors. Its hard to tell but I think its a bracket mounted over the hinge pin. To be sure I would have to remove the bolt connecting the two brackets. 3rd & 4rd pic shows the hinge and pin just below the one with the mirror.

Same model as mine 😁 Parts list and pictures are from the 120/128 models. I pulled the engine and made a lot of pictures. Unfortunately I lost most of it caused by a HW crash. The ones from the pump assemble are gone too. Think you miss the upper shaft, coupling and the gear. Whole oil pressure valve parts seems to be gone. How it should be you can barely see on the picture from the Shop Manual.

Here the pics and part numbers from the Parts Book. What kind of model you have? 29, 47 or 51?

One more thing: the last messages I received are from the 12th of June. I remember that exactly on this date my account had been blocked because it was hacked, sending mails all over the world with my account. After resetting its working again, except the AACA mails. Might be on a "bad list" somewhere....