dracenroc

Thanks Leif. I removed the 6 bolts from the driving sleeve and the nuts(2) and bolts(9) from the flywheel housing. OK, I'll try again and pull harder. I was just not sure and won't bend or break something. Probably it was not the best idea to loosen the engine mounting bolts already, the engine is moving back instead the transmission is separating

Is there trick or special movement to remove the crankshaft cap? I can pull it forward feeling the force of the spring but it will not come off. Should I use some more force? I don't wan't to break something...

I'm pulling my engine to do some "cosemetics". The numbers on the tag on the crankcase shows 1'999'278 the one on the block 206'502-1 (casted) the cylinder head shows 210'586, has a four hole water inlet and a different color than the rest of the engine and transmission. Most probably a replacement the transmission shows 205'939-3 (casted) Can anyone tell me something about the identifiers of my engine?

I need some advise removing the transmission of my 1928 128" Master. The rear axle is completely removed, all bolts and nuts are removed and all the other stuff connected to the tranny. I'm wondering if there is anything else I need to remove first to pull the transmission out and remove it. Do I need to remove the 6 flywheel bolts first before pulling it back? I also tried to remove the lower flywheel housing, but it seems to be hold back by the dowel pins. Thanks for any help! Werner

Pretty cool! Congrats! Enjoy and take good care of her!

Congratulations Leif!

Feel free! I wouldn't say its a thirty minutes job, but its not that difficult. I did it with some kind of a "try and error method". The hard part is to bend the metal bands in a correct way so that the distance to the center and the hight fits the position of the two screws. I used material I had laying around in my shop. 2 wood connector bands and a hose clamp.To small parts of residual material are jammed between the the tube and the clamp in order to fix the brackets correctly. There might be better ways to do this. The metal connectors are enough flexible to correct wrong bent angels and try it again with a different length. Unfortunately I didn't notice the linear measures. The drill hole in the right lower corner is for no use, that part goes to the tube. Its just one of the pre-drilled standard holes on the wood connector plates. The hole for the screw is at the upper part, not yet drilled on that pic.

I had the same problem, or even worse. My bracket was completely gone. If I would have your broken bracket I would try to glue it with a modern 2-component epoxy adhesive. Since mine was gone I made my own one...a simple construction, but it works.

Here are to pictures, one front the parts book, the other one from the reference book.

Ok.. between the transmission case and the transmission end plate carrying the ball housing should be a seal. Is it leaking from there? Then, the joint in the ball housing is lubricated through a hole from the oil in the transmission case, maintaining a constant level of oil in the ball housing and the surplus oil returns to the transmission case. A felt packing at the rear prevents leakage of oil. So probably that one is gone or worn out, guess its leaking somewhere at the shaft. You can use an oil with a lower viscosity but in this case the joint will not receive proper lubrication.

Not sure you are talking about front or rear of the transmission. Where exactly is it leaking? There should be a felt packing at the rear of the ball housing to prevent leaking.

Anyone knows the length of the floating arm holding the tank float? Mine is completely gone and I need to replace it. Missing the brass tube on the gauge as well, would appreciate to get an idea how it looked like.

Thanks Tinindian! Searched "piano wire" and found the post it was. :-)

I tried a search right now but I couldn't find a post "Model F gasoline Gauge". I remember a post a few weeks ago about repairs of the system, but I cannot find it again. As far as I remember the routing or any dimension where not mentioned there.

GraniteBayBob, the title of this topic i acutely misleading. I thought the missing handle at the top of the windshield is for the wiper. In the meantime I fixed may windshield regulator and started a new topic, you will find some pictures there showing the regulator, probably it helps. http://forums.aaca.org/topic/295457-1928-window-regulator/

Yes, the complete line is missing. But on the '28 it is a wire and floating device indicating the fuel level at the gauge drum, not a liquid filled tube. It actually dosen't matter how the exact routing is installed, but if I have the chance to do it like it was originally I'll try to do so. Below you find a sketch of the assembly. Its a "Model F gasoline Gauge" system. Unfortunately no figures about the dimension of the float arm is given. It would be easier to calibrate the gauge knowing the length of the arm instead of try and error method. I checked out "King Seeley Telegauge" but couldn't find matching parts. Thanks for your help!

I need to reconstruct my gasoline gauge assembly. The whole tube is gone, sending unit and gauge are still here and work fine, except that the floating device is missing. I organized all the components I need, but I don't know where the tube was routed from the tank to the gauge. Can anyone tell me how the tube was installed originally or post some fotos? Thanks! Werner Furthermore I would like to know the length of the load arm. This one is missing too.

Amazing car Frank! Thanks for sharing! As I will brush-up the engine bay on my Master 6 I would highly appreciate some fotos from your original engine, thanks! Werner

Thanks for your advise. Actually a good idea and if I would restore the whole car I would do that. I guess its still the original glass all around showing no signs of safety-glass. But as the car must have been restored a few decades ago and its still in good shape I will just do a few minor repairs and make everything working again.

Thanks michaelod! I have all the channels and the upper header rail. I removed the old tape, put it over the glass and drove the upper header rail into it. The tension is strong enough to hold the glass in place (taped it on) and it works so far. When the glass is falling out of the upper header rail again I will try a new glass mounting tape. Most probably the window regulation had never been installed back correctly. I checked out Bob's Automobile already but as the other three door handles are a different model I guess the handle on the right front door is actually the regulator handle. In that case I prefer to purchase rather a door window handle and use the one in the picture as a regulator handle.

Finally I dismantled the window regulator. It looks not too bad inside and actually works. Lifting the glass didn't work because the glass was not fixed to the rail attached to the regulator. Can anyone tell me how the glass is fixed to the rail. Just jammed or glued in? Or is there another mechanism holding the glass in place? Furthermore I'm still missing the regulator handle. On the RH door attached is a handle which I guess could be the regulator handle.

Good to see you brought her back to life! Congratulations! No issues with starter and wiring? I never could crank my 12V sixties such a long time! First the solenoid and starter wire will blow up in smoke and fire and second the battery will be dead Good old pre-war technology

On the '38 the max charging capacity is 25-31amps. Range 30-0-30 makes sense in that case, but i'm not sure if the '37 has the same charge capacity and the same indicator.

Sad...nice car! Hope you will get it fixed soon! Just curios...it looks like the lh hood is missing too? And whats this in the rear on the lh side?

Mine looks more like the one in the parts manual then the one eBay and is most probably an aftermarket.