dracenroc

I agree with Hugh. All reliable engine pics from this era are showing a engine color painted water pump. Will mine paint engine colored too.

this might help....

Transmission around 1.75 quarts, differential 2.3 quarts (for the 128"). The shorter ones need more for the differential. Fill it up to the lower level of the filler plug. Take a heavy one, I take at least W250, follow tinindians hint or calculate a half a day to pour the oil in

Me too Terry...luckily I have a lot of other things to do on the engine...at least it's worth to pull it The picture above is from the rear part of the engine, this one is how the front looks

I will replace mine with steel plugs too. Don't know what liquids and/or additives all the previous owners used for cooling. I'm just wondering if they had last longer when they would have been made from brass instead of steel.

Because the one made of steel look like this after years...?

http://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/dorman,555022,expansion+plug+/+set,5332

Good to hear you'll save her Lenny!

Hugh, I don't think the leather band is to hold the oil back but to protect the ball from dirt. Compared to the picture in the shop manual I do probably not have a '28 transmission or at least a different shell...

With a closer look to the outer shell it looks like its not the same part as shown in Hugh's (Larry DiBarry's) picture. Mine is completely round. There is no groove to hold a seal or packing. Compared to the 1928 parts book it looks like the correct one. Its hard to see in the picture of part 208295 if it has a groove or not but it looks like there is none. I'm still wondering where this felt packing as described in the shop manual should go. The parts book tells nothing about a felt packing nor something from another seal. The only parts mentioned are flange gaskets and the joint boot.

Thank you all, very helpful!

I dismantled my universal joint. The shop manual is talking about a "felt packing in the universal joint cup". Can someone explain me where this felt packing should be? Second, the parts book shows a "Universal Joint Boot" (Bobs also sells it) but I cannot figure out were that one is going to.

Nice car! SKF is a Swedish bearing company, its most probably not the first bearing installed :-) Where are you from? Post your question in the Buick Pre War section http://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/. There you'll address more Buick PreWar guys and one or the other might also have changed the front wheel bearing. Or try to ask Bob from Bobsautomobilia. Couldn't find a '28 front bearing in the catalog but he will know which one fits.

Great idea! Will copy it when I'm going to install my tranny again....with your allowance :-) Mine works actually correctly, no slip and proper engagement, just the noms as you said. I can live with that.

Mine might be too thick, the linings. I will measure the linings. Compared to yours, donb27, I have only the outer holes visible on the three bolts, just 3/4 of the boring. 1/4 is covered by the outer plate. In your first picture, before dismantling it I guess, the complete boring in the bolt is visible. What are the cotter pins (in a 2nd hole?) for?

Thanks for your offer Fred! I dismantled the clutch today, it looks pretty good. The bearing seems to be in good condition as well. While removing the hub touching it slightly to the clutch I heard the same sound when i push the clutch. Hitting it slightly with a metal bar it sounds like a triangle or a tuning fork. I don't know why it makes that sound but the clutch seems to be ok.

Tranny and engine is out of the car since a few days. Looking at the clutch plate there is some wear visible. Is this usual or excessive? I can move the outer ring of the bearing forward and backward. As far as I know this shouldn't be possible on bearings, at least the one I had changed the last few years but I never had something to do with a clutch release bearing. Might that be the cause for this tinkling noise pushing the clutch pedal?

Short follow up, crankcase cap is off! I tried it with heat, penetrating oil, pliers to squeeze and form and even with an exhaust extractor, no chance. Finally I had to cut a short slot in the cap to open it a bit. Then I was able to pull back the seal and it came off by further pulling by hand. Its full of dirt and a little bit bent, that must have been the cause for being stuck. Thanks you all for your hints & tips!

Thanks for the picture Hugh, that helps! As I can pass it forward it goes over the drive and cotter pin but I cannot see the seal by pulling it. So most probably the seal is stocked and moves forward collapsing the spring. This will also explain the remains of the greased stuff coming off. I will try again and let you know. Leif, the cap is aluminium.

I can pull it forward to see the shaft. I cannot see the spring but I can feel the resistance while pulling. Installing a bearing puller and trying to pull with a sledge hammer didn't work either. What came out is something like a greased thread in several pieces...? Either I leave it in place or I cut it open and look for a spare.

Thank you all for the help! The tranny is out! I just had to pull it harder with the help of a chain tackle block and I used a jack stand for transmissions. It came out when I fixed the engine to the frame again. The hardest thing was to move it around the exhaust (no, I didn't removed it before ). By bending the battery box bracket back and tilting the transmission it worked. I didn't had the time make pictures while I removed it...I needed both hands and had do hold it firmly on the stand.

Thank you, that helps! I'm wondering why I can feel the backpressure of the spring. The cap must therefor be jammed somewhere at the engine side pressing the spring together when I pull it. I can turn the cap almost free, feeling a light resistance. It seem like the whole spring turns, like clipped to the cap.

Yes, thats what i figured out from the judging handbook, too. What about the color? According my information the 1928 should be a "Buick early green" but the block and transmission looks more like a "Buick (forest) green", like the one on my '38. The head is in a lighter green. Would that one be the correct color?

No chance, the thing is stucked. May be bent or having some dents jamming it. Mine looks not that nice as the one from the parts book