JV Puleo Posted April 8, 2022 Author Share Posted April 8, 2022 Pressing on with turning off the repair holes, I found that the flange is pretty irregular, which isn't surprising for a casting. You can see a groove made when it was originally machined. The casting is thick at that point. I took it down until I'd eliminated the groove since the flange was only as thick there as the bottom of the groove. I didn't feel it was necessary to make it perfectly flat. As it is, it is now about .030 thinner than the other one (depending on where you measure it). I'm certain that will make no appreciable difference but saw no reason to push it. One is a little more than .375 thick and the other a little less. I suspect that was the nominal measurement they were aiming for. I then went back to the sleeves I'm making for the front spindles. Again, the spindles themselves aren't all that precise and they have a slight taper so the sleeve (reamed to 1-1/2") doesn't slide on all the way. (Although in this case I had it in the wrong place...this is the part that acts like a king pin. The dimensions are nominally the same.) When I realized my error, I started fitting them to the correct spindles. They are still tight and will require further hand fitting and probably slight reaming. I did counter bore the lower end of the sleeve about .010 to minimize the amount I'll have to open it up. I'm going to Locktite these in place and, when the OD's have been ground they should be better than the original was. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chistech Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 Joe, do you know of another guy possibly in Little Compton RI supposedly restoring a 10’ Mitchell also? He is supposed to own a few companies and fairly well off by the way it sounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 No...that's news to me. Let me know if you find out anything more. It's hard to imagine there are two of them in RI! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted April 9, 2022 Share Posted April 9, 2022 Yes, I can confirm there is another Mitchell of that vintage in RI, as Chistech said, not sure if it is 1910 or 1912. I need to get him to come visit your shop, Joe. I'll pass along your contact info to him. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 (edited) By all means...'12 is somewhat different from the '10. One of the reservations I have about my car is that the engine was only made in '10 and '11 and was completely redesigned for '12 - which leads me to think that they realized it was not a very good design. Actually, I'd rate it as a very "pedestrian" design with the major flaws being in manufacturing quality. For instance; they advertised that it had an aluminum sump but the sump on my car is cast iron. I'd guess that the crankcase, which is aluminum, proved too flexible and to stiffen it they went with an iron sump. It makes an odd combination...I would think an iron case and aluminum sump would have made more sense. I'm hoping that an extreme concentration on engine balance and lessening the weight of the reciprocating parts (especially the pistons) will do a lot to minimize the stresses on the case. [Edit] It's also possible that the engine acquired a poor reputation when new...more as a result of the shortcuts taken than for it's design and that necessitated a complete re-design. Poor first impressions are not easily overcome. Edited April 10, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 9, 2022 Author Share Posted April 9, 2022 (edited) The spindles aren't exactly precise so in order to get these pieces to fit I had to ream them slightly with this expansion reamer. They aren't identical either...one is a few thousandths larger than the other. But, now they slide on. Then turned down to 1.75 + about .008 for grinding. Getting the sleeve off the mandrel was the real problem. The second one is nearly done but I've got errands to run so it will have to wait. Edited April 9, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 11, 2022 Author Share Posted April 11, 2022 Between Sunday afternoon and today I made quite a pit of progress, starting with turning the second front spindle sleeve down to about .008 oversize. There was no need to take this one off the mandrel so I set up the grinder and ground it to .003 undersize. The acceptable tolerance is -.001 to -.005. I've found that .003 slips right on. The sleeves were slightly long so after I'd finished the second one I trimmed both to 1-3/4". Next up are the plates that I'll solder to the sleeves and serve to keep dirt out of the bearing. These were drilled and reamed to 1-3/4", the nominal OD of the spindle sleeve. Last, I started on a cone I'll need to fit this hole for the turning fixture I made. A piece of 2" bar... Drilled and reamed to 1" I'll finish this tomorrow and, hopefully, assemble the sleeves. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 12, 2022 Author Share Posted April 12, 2022 (edited) I finished the piece for the turning fixture and put one of the discs on. They are quite a bit too big...something that can't be avoided because I needed the large diameter to fit them in the chuck to bore the hole in the center...if they were close to the correct size the chuck jaws would have projected into the hole. Also, I can't indicate the OD because it was inside the chuck so I had to get the center by eye. That isn't the best way to do it...I think they were both off by .050 but this fixture has worked perfectly so it was just a matter of turning off the excess... I used my camping stove to solder the sleeves in. and while it was cooling, decided to look for two things I know I have but, for the life of me, couldn't find. One was this piece of 3" cast iron bar. I bought this at a local scrap yard about 40 years ago and can't remember what I originally made from it but it's very good cast iron. I cut off a 2" piece... This to make an "external lap". Another problem is the lower bearing for the Lemoine axle. This is the only bearing in the car that I've found thus far where I could just buy one that fit but, as you can see, even though they are the correct nominal size they don't slide down to the base of the spindle. I need to reduce the OD by a thousandth or two and there is no way to put this in the lathe to use the grinder. Also, this has to be done before the sleeves are attached to the spindles because with the shield on the back there is no room to work. I'm still waiting on the piece of metal to repair the hub and, at this pint, it looks as if I'll be busy doing other parts of the job until it arrives. The second "lost" item was the good rear hub cap. I have two...one of which is usable. The other must have been taken off with a pipe wrench. That would be bad enough but they also dinged the OD enough to distort the threads on the inside so the poor one won't even thread on. These caps are cast and, because of the full floating rear end, hold the axles in. Unlike many other hub caps, they are a critical part. I'm undecided what to do about this...if I could find another usable cap I'd probably buy it but if I have to make one, I'll make two and likely incorporate a means of locking it in place. Edited April 12, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 13, 2022 Author Share Posted April 13, 2022 I put the sleeves back on the lathe to grind the OD of the shield. I went .010 undersize which leaves a .005 gap around the utside edge. They fit perfectly...as I expected they would. I will need a spaces .200 thick between the bearing and the shield to bring it up flush with the back of the hub. I knew this was coming but couldn't get an accurate measurement until the shield was in place. I also rough assembled the complete hub to see how the other side looked. With the spacer in place the bearing should be just about right. I also wasted an hour looking for the nuts which I must have put in a "safe" place. They are 1"-16 castellated nuts — its not a common thread. I'm sure they'll turn up but I can always make some...in fact, I may prefer to do that. Then I started on the external lap, drilling and reaming the lump of cast iron to 1-1/2" Face off the other end... And turning to get it round. It's been a long time since I turned cast iron and I made an error somewhere so tonight I'll look up what the turning bit should look like and make one tomorrow. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1912Staver Posted April 14, 2022 Share Posted April 14, 2022 My Staver uses a very similar rear hubcap / drive spider set up . I think the general concept was reasonably common in the 1910 - 1914 era. Luckily both my rear caps are decent. I am missing one front cap however. Quite a bit smaller that the rear , and just a plain face , no Staver name. Makes finding another one very difficult. A year or two older and Staver caps had a very nice cast in logo. But a different rear end and a smaller thread size { on the rear at least }. A Staver logo front may be the same thread size as my front hub thread. But I have not been able to find one yet to try. I do have a Staver logo rear cap. Too small for my rear hub and too large large for my front. I expect the Staver logo hub caps are as popular and high priced with hub cap collectors ,as Staver radiator badges are with badge collectors. Staver used at least 4 different rear ends and I expect they all took a different size hub cap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 14, 2022 Author Share Posted April 14, 2022 I suspect that most hub caps were made by specialist manufacturers...which is why the name of the car is often on an embossed plate soldered into a relief on the cap. That's how the Mitchell caps were made and I know of others. If so, it's quite possible that the caps from some other car will fit if you can measure the threads. Unfortunately, few car collectors know enough about machine work to do that. It also appears that 16tpi was a common thread, the major difference being the diameter. I think that if you found a cap with the correct ID, there is a good chance it would fit. I think there were SAE standards for these...I'll look tonight and post the information if I find it. On my project, I turned 1-1/2" of the external lap to 2". Then drilled it 5/16 through the flange. These holes will hold the "handles." I put a flat on each hole for a lock nut. And tapped the holes to 3/8-16. I now have to split this but because there was already a 3/4 end mill in the milling machine I put in the three notches for bearing removal. I'd machined most of these away when I boring out the hub. Then I set up the mill to slit the external lap but it's after 5 now so I'll leave this for the morning. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 RE the SAE standards for hub caps...oddly enough there don't seem to be any which I find unusual because they had standards for just about everything from bolts to running board brackets! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 15, 2022 Author Share Posted April 15, 2022 (edited) The external lap with one side cut through. Then set up to do the other side. The C-clamp is there to hold the two pieces apart when I make the last cut. I'm using this 6" slitting cutter so it will reach over the vise...I took the cutter off, moved the table over and reattached the cutter so I didn't have to disturb the height measurement. I still need a 2" split collar to hold these together and be able to adjust the pressure but I just ordered one...for $12 I;m not going to spend half a day making one. These discs will be the spacers that go behind the inside front wheel bearing. I ordered some 1/4" thick discs without checking to see if I had them. Of course, I did... The two inside holes reamed...I have to turn them down to size and I'll probably surface grind them as well. They are about .050 to thick...but I can't be sure of the measurement until I assemble the hub with the spacer in place. Edited April 15, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 Today the spacer discs...they are effectively thick thrust washers...went into the lathe to be turned down to .020 under the OD of the rear bearing. I don't want them to touch the edge and that should give me good clearance while also serving to help keep the grease in. This turning fixture has turned out to be one of my best ideas. Its made what was a difficult and tedious operation into a piece of cake. With both of them turned to the finished size... I tried one in the hub. It's proud .050, exactly what I'd estimated it would be. The only way I have to remove the .050 is to surface grind it. That's a lot to grind off but at least it will be perfectly flat. This grinder is very worn out. It really isn't suitable for extreme precision work but it's ok for this sort of thing. After it was ground I tried it again. This time the rear shield is almost perfectly flush. This also allowed me to put the spindle back in and see how it lined up with the front bearing. It seems fine but I still have to make sleeves to bring the diameter out to 1-1/2". 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nickelroadster Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Maybe you could give guided tours of your shop sometime. A quick question. Was there any advantage to you making threaded inserts for the hub holes? Are they going to be better than Helicoils? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) The holes were badly egg shaped by some nitwit that tried to drill out the wheel bolts with an hand-held electric drill. It didn't effect the plate on the front of the wheel but, of course, the drill drifted and really screwed up the holes in the wheel and especially the hub. So, the holes were too big to be threaded for a helicoil...besides, the hub is only about 3/8" thick and the threaded liners have to be flush on both ends. I'll see if I can find the picture of the hub as it was. Also, the holes are 7/16". I made new wheel bolts 1/2". The idea is to bolt everything together with 7/16" bolts then, one at the time, use an end mill to open the holes up to 1/2". That way the holes in all the pieces will align and there will be no radial "slop"...once the wheels are bolted together they'll be left alone. I'll paint them fully assembled. As to tours...I'm always available to any member here who happens to be in northern Rhode Island. Several have stopped in. Edited April 16, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 5 minutes ago, JV Puleo said: The holes were badly egg shaped by some nitwit that tried to drill out the wheel bolts with an hand-held electric drill. It didn't effect the plate on the front of the wheel but, of course, the drill drifted and really screwed up the holes in the wheel and especially the hub. So, the holes were too big to be threaded for a helicoil...besides, the hub is only about 3/8" thick and the threaded liners have to be flush on both ends. I'll see if I can find the picture of the hub as it was. As to tours...I'm always available to any member here who happens to be in northern Rhode Island. Several have stopped in. Joe, There is an option called a Keen insert. They’re a threaded steel insert with stakes and use a larger diameter. An example is a typical 3/8-16 has an OD thread of 9/16-12 when helicoils won’t work. Mcmaster Carr has them available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Also, there’s an insert called Guard inserts that are self tapping inserts. They work great on field repairs in soft materials like aluminum in tight spaces. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 Bob...in order to eliminate the egg shape on all the holes I had to go to a finished size of 3/4"... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Yep, that’s really sloppy! I just didn’t know if you knew about the inserts? Great trick to have up your sleeve when you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 At one point or another I've used most of the commercially available inserts. With this job I've found that most often there isn't one that fits the situation exactly. Also, as much as I can I try to use techniques that suit the period. I confess to using Locktite and some other modern materials when I have to but generally I'm imitating the RR method. There is no place on a Ghost or PI RR where a fastener is screwed into aluminum...they always used brass inserts. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 16, 2022 Author Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) 2 hours ago, BobinVirginia said: Yep, that’s really sloppy! I just didn’t know if you knew about the inserts? Great trick to have up your sleeve when you need it. It is...and one of the rear hubs was almost as bad...and it came from the factory that way! Edited April 17, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 (edited) Yeah, with what I do I often run into bosses on blocks that were completely blown out on one side. Usually caused by a field mechanic with his crane or greenhorn disassembly tech. I often cut the bosses flush and reconstruct with 1/8” Super 460 Nickel rod and then machine the hole. The nickel cuts great except at the joint of the substrate. The weld pulls carbon into itself making it extremely hard at that point. Edited April 16, 2022 by BobinVirginia (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Joe….all the hub work is fantastic………. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 There’s a lot of satisfaction in salvaging parts most would discard. You do a great job showcasing that. Thanks Joe! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 Keep it up Joe! You’re a rare talent nowadays 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 16, 2022 Share Posted April 16, 2022 6 minutes ago, edinmass said: Joe….all the hub work is fantastic………. What he said 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 18, 2022 Author Share Posted April 18, 2022 (edited) I'm getting shockingly close to finishing the hub rebuild project. Today I made the sleeves for the small end of the front hubs, starting with two pieces of this steel bar 1" long. The bar is quite a bit too big but I have a lot of it and it was free...also, it machines very nicely. Reamed to 1-1/4" Then turned down. I was going to go to .005 oversize and then grind them but it was turning so nicely I decided to take a chance and finish them in the lathe. If it worked, it would save 1/2 and day's work since it's a chore to set the grinder up. It worked fine... I was able to hit my .003 undersize right on the nose and they fit perfectly. (This doesn't happen all that often!) The last step was to trim the ends square. I actually cut these a bit too short so I had, at most. .025 to play with. Thankfully, both trimmed just fine. Edited April 18, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted April 19, 2022 Share Posted April 19, 2022 While it is a bit difficult for me to fully grasp exactly what you're doing, I have a feeling that in about 9 months I'll be doing something very similar. Obviously my Metz has the same issue with bearings for the hubs. At one point I had a plan for doing that (I'm sure we discussed) and bought a bunch of bearings. I think I later determined they fit a bit different and it wouldn't work. What I do know is that all the detail you've presented here is likely to be a huge help sometime later this year. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 19, 2022 Author Share Posted April 19, 2022 (edited) Good...that's the whole idea behind doing this. Also, I suspect that getting your machines operational is not going to be the challenge that the MG was. For one thing, I'll bet they mostly come apart easily and unless you get into scraping surfaces, putting them back together is mostly an exercise in cleaning and adjusting. I had to make some parts for my B&S mill but it's a much more complicated machine...another reason why I lean towards the last decade of the 19th century and the first two decades of the 20th. For this type of work those machines are more than adequate. After all, the cars were built with them. Pressing on with the front hub bearings...I'm making two spacers that go on top of the outside bearing and under the nut that will hold it all together. This is some 1/2" steel, probably A36. They are 3-1/2" discs that I'm sure are the leftovers from making something that had holes in it. They are waterjet cut and the starting hole is about 1/4" in but I have to turn them down more than that so it's not a problem. First they were drilled and reamed to 1", then counterbored to 1-1/2". I then put both pieces on a 1" stub arbor and turned them down to 2.550 - about .012 smaller than the OD of the bearing. And they fit exactly as planned. I'll surface grind these to get them perfectly flat on both sides but should only have to remove about .010. To secure all these parts I need 2 large castellated nuts made to fit the protruding threaded portion of the spindle. I have the original nuts somewhere but they are too thin. I'm sure that's a result of my having fitted new bearings so I want to make new nuts that look exactly right. I cut two pieces of 1-1/2" hex... Then set up the 3-jaw chuck to hold them. A few months ago Gary asked why I don't use a 3-jaw. The 4-jaw is much more accurate and repeatable but this is the exception. Also, by putting the 3-jaw in the 4-jaw I can true the piece up. It's a 1-16 thread and I need a 15/16 hole. I don't have that size drill so I drilled to 13/16 and plunge milled it with a 15/16 end mill. Then threaded it... This is as far as I got today. In the middle of this we had the delivery from hell...a shipping container with 19 double stacked pallets. The truck was a foot too high for the loading dock and the pallets were in sideways. We were rescued by our neighbor who came over with his forklift. We pulled the truck away from the dock and took the pallets out one at the time then had to lift them again into the building — all before it started to rain. I'm amazed I got anything done at all! Edited April 19, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 19, 2022 Author Share Posted April 19, 2022 (edited) 5 hours ago, Luv2Wrench said: While it is a bit difficult for me to fully grasp exactly what you're doing, I have a feeling that in about 9 months I'll be doing something very similar. Obviously my Metz has the same issue with bearings for the hubs. At one point I had a plan for doing that (I'm sure we discussed) and bought a bunch of bearings. I think I later determined they fit a bit different and it wouldn't work. What I do know is that all the detail you've presented here is likely to be a huge help sometime later this year. It is hard to follow, especially as I'm doing some of these operations out of order because the materials haven't arrived yet. When this is done I'll do a posting showing the completed hub but taken apart. Edited April 19, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobinVirginia Posted April 20, 2022 Share Posted April 20, 2022 Joe, I wasn’t trying to be a critic with earlier comments. I was hoping to offer a few options to you. You’re doing a fantastic job that I appreciate on all parts you’ve fabricated and repaired. Thanks for sharing your industrial art with all of us. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 (edited) I never thought you were being critical. Without being on the spot to see the parts it's sometimes difficult to adequately describe what I'm doing. Actually, I forgot to mention that the other aspect of my liners is that they are not threaded on the inside and have to be large enough to be bored out 1/16". I doubt there are any commercial products intended for that purpose, it being so specialized. I'm looking forward to tomorrow's adventure, making the big castle nuts. I've never done that but have a plan... Edited April 20, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 20, 2022 Author Share Posted April 20, 2022 (edited) All I managed to do today was finish the castellated nuts. I started by turning one end round. This is the way early 20th century castle nuts were usually made. Then one was mounted on this hexagonal collet block. When I put it in the vise I only have to rotate the block to have each cut come out in the right place. Using the collet to hold it also ensures that the slots will be perfectly perpendicular to the spindle. Cutting the slots...this is actually the longest part of the job because the slitting say runs so slowly. When I finished the first one I assembled the good hub. Then went on to finish the second one. This second hub will almost certainly require some final fitting. Not surprisingly, it isn't identical to the other one but this design leaves lots of room for adjustment so I thought it pointless to wait on making the pieces. The piece of steel I need for the new end of the other hub only shipped yesterday (I ordered it 3 weeks ago) so I'm going to go on with the parts I can make. Edited April 20, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 21, 2022 Author Share Posted April 21, 2022 (edited) First thing today I surface ground the spacers that go against the outside bearing on the front hub. Then I used the surface grinder to repair a couple of turning bits. It takes time but I've never developed the skill of hand grinding lathe bits...I'm "sort of" ok with it but when I want something really good I have to rely on the machines. This was to turn the replacement sleeve that goes into the damaged hub. I set it up in the lathe... And the new bit I'd ground did a fine job. This is the smoothest surface I've ever managed to get with this DOM tubing without grinding or honing. The sleeve doesn't exactly slip into the hub. The fit is close without needing the big press and 2 tons of pressure to seat it. I'm going to rely on Locktite to hold these things in as I don't want to take a chance on ruining it a second time. I also took these pictures to show how I've modified the hubs to take tapered roller bearings... And with the bearings off so you can see the sleeves that go on the spindle. Edited April 21, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 11 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edinmass Posted April 21, 2022 Share Posted April 21, 2022 Looks great Joe…..👍👍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 21, 2022 Author Share Posted April 21, 2022 Thanks Ed...coming from you, based on our appreciation of PA, that's high praise indeed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 22, 2022 Author Share Posted April 22, 2022 I haven't much to report today. I didn't get in until almost 2. But, the split collar came in for the external lapping tool. The idea is that it clamps around the piece...(the "kingpin" on the Lemoine axle) with some grinding paste. Then it's turned with the handles and, as it works, the collar is tightened a little until enough metal has been removed for the bearing to slide to the bottom. It's probably a very small amount, perhaps .001 or .002. Then I went back to boring the new sleeve for the damaged hub. I did fine with the OD but I wasn't satisfied with the finish I was getting on the inside. Fortunately, I had a call from a machinist friend — someone with a lot more experience than I have. He suggested a very slow feed and the fastest speed the lathe could muster. It isn't fast (by modern standards)...I think top end is about 650 RPM and I've never used it before. I tried a .005 cut at that speed and it made a marked improvement. I'll finish this tomorrow because I'm tired and I've already made some math errors. It isn't a problem until you've gone too far so I'm not going to press it... 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted April 23, 2022 Share Posted April 23, 2022 The post from Thursday really helps tie all the pieces together and yes, that basically looks like what I'll be doing to get the Metz back together. Really glad you're documenting the process for me. I can follow pictures. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JV Puleo Posted April 23, 2022 Author Share Posted April 23, 2022 (edited) I thought that would make more sense... Today, rested and thinking clearly, I finished boring the sleeve. The trick to getting a smooth surface was to take small cuts and run the lathe as fast as it can go, which is only about 650 RPM. Nevertheless, the finish I got was just short of looking ground. I wish I'd known that a month or two ago...it would have saved a lot of time but that's the price you pay for being self-taught. Then I had to cut it off...and dreaded it. Rather than use the proper tool I put a V groove in it where it cuts off and held a hacksaw up against it while spinning. I suspect the OSHA wonks would have had a fit but it worked and it was much less trying than using the cut-off tool and took less time as well. Then I faced off the sawn end of the sleeve. And pressed the bearing race in. I put it in the hub after applying green "slip fit" Locktite to the surface. The dimensions are just about perfect...it may be .001 undersize so it pressed in easily but there is no play. I'm determined to not repeat my torturous experiments with heating the part and shrink fitting it. Viewed from the other side... It takes 72 hours for the Locktite to cure to maximum strength so it will probably be Tuesday before I can machine off the excess sticking out of the hub... And, as luck would have it, the piece of steel came in Friday to make the front end of the hub. I still am not completely convinced this will work and this lump of steel cost $92 including the shipping so I'm going about this slowly and carefully. Still, there is a good chance the hubs will be done next week. Edited May 17, 2022 by JV Puleo (see edit history) 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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