oakhurst Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 When releasing the clutch in first gear, car starts to roll normally, then upon full release of clutch, car leaps about 2 feet. I understand this is a leather faced "cone" clutch. Bought the neatsfoot oil but not sure how to apply it. I understand there is somebody in Orange, CA who has redone the leather for another owner. Any help? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted March 23, 2017 Author Share Posted March 23, 2017 Just emailed Bob Knaak. Found his name in another thread re leather clutches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_S_in_Penna Posted March 23, 2017 Share Posted March 23, 2017 Let us know how you make out, Mr. Oakhurst. Not only will we root for your success with the Studebaker, but providing more details on your findings will help out the next guy with a similar need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rusty_OToole Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 That is typical of cone clutches. Some of them had spring loaded devices under the leather to push it out in spots allowing a more gradual take up of the clutch. The neat's foot oil may help soften the leather. You need to find some way to get it into the clutch and let the leather soak it up. There may be holes for this purpose in the clutch housing, I don't know. Maybe some of the real old timers will chime in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 I was told thirty odd years ago that a cone clutch should not be eased out or slipped as we do with a disc clutch. I was told to speed the engine up slightly, close the throttle, engage the clutch smoothly and then open the throttle again. I only drove one cone clutch car, and that only for ten miles in town and fifty miles on the highway. After the first two or three starts I seemed to get in step with the car and most starts were smooth and both owner and auto seemed happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marty Roth Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 I agree with Tinindian - Having driven extensively with our (former) 1912 Oakland and 1914 Buick B-37, you don't gradually slip a cone clutch. Get it to where it starts to engage and let it out all the way with out serious acceleration for the moment, then accelerate as it becomes fully engaged. It won't take too long for you to become comfortable with the procedure, and then it will become second nature. You may not really need the Neatsfoot Oil, but in any case don't overdo it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
8E45E Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 (edited) Correct me if I'm wrong, but is the transmission located at the rear axle on your car? http://forum.studebakerdriversclub.com/showthread.php?8781-Studebaker-Transaxles-Only-From-1913-191 I would check all the linkage(s) to the transmission first to see if there's any slack. Craig Edited March 24, 2017 by 8E45E (see edit history) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 THanks, lots of good info. I will keep the forum informed of what we find. Waiting for a call back from Bob Knaak. Yes, trans is in the rear axle. Need to get if off the lift and out on the road to learn more. Weather is iffy now so it may be a few days. Finally verified the VIN and got it legal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike6024 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 This is a different vehicle, but in the video the owner talks about how he shifts with the cone clutch, so you may find it interesting. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 Very good. I did not realize that it required a different method of release. I will try this soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 My hearing is pretty well shot, so I can't make out the detail of the conversation. But do you have a clutch brake? In my cone-clutch 1918 Pierce (clutch relined with Kevlar, rather than leather, when restored, so ATF rather than neatsfoot oil is the right lubricant for Kevlar), there is a clutch brake consisting of two pads which slow/stop the clutch when the clutch pedal is FULLY depressed. The technique is to depress the clutch FULLY **ONLY** when shifting at a stopped position into 1st or reverse. (Actually, on the 4-speed Pierce, I use 1st only when starting on a grade or desiring to go at crawl speed. So I fully depress the clutch pedal and engage the clutch brake at a stop sign, for example, going into 2nd gear.) While moving, depress the clutch part-way while up- or down-shifting so as NOT to engage the clutch brake. Check your Owner's Manual for adjustment of the clutch brake, if equipped. Another issue is to periodically lubricate the cross shaft, seen in this video, by means of any oil holes / oil cups / grease cups / grease fittings provided. I find that I need to pull the floor boards and lube the cross shaft about every 500 miles. If you find your cross shaft dry or sticky, initially try penetrating oil or 5W30; once it's freed up, use SAE 30. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grimy Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 Afterthought: IF you overdo the neatsfoot oil, prop the clutch pedal in the fully depressed position for an hour or so, and the excess will be squeezed out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oakhurst Posted March 24, 2017 Author Share Posted March 24, 2017 Thanks Grimy! No clutch brake mentioned in the owner's manual. Perhaps other Studebaker guys will know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ltc4748 Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 If you do not use neetsfoot oil occasionally the leather will dry out and fly apart, it happened last year to a friend of mines 1918 studebaker. If you apply too much oil depressing the clutch will not squeeze out the excess because the clutch will be released. I read somewhere a product called mothers earth can be used on leather clutches if they are slipping from being oil soaked due to leakage or ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bamford Posted March 24, 2017 Share Posted March 24, 2017 The product used to soak up excess neatsfoot oil is FULLERS Earth, similar to talcum powder. You may not need it but neatsfoot oil (often called saddler's oil these days) is a must. I have driven my cone-clutch 1912 KisselKar many thousands of miles and thousands of shifts -- I relined the clutch with saddle leather during the initial restoration and it has not worn out yet. I agree with with the suggestions above to 1) check for spring-loaded fingers bumping out the leather lining in a number of spots to help with a gradual engagement (they are often adjustable to take up wear), 2) engage the clutch sooner than later, and 3) overhaul (or install) the clutch brake. I had to design and build a clutch brake for my car and it is a great improvement. If your leather lining is worn/tattered it can be replaced in the home shop fairly easily and at moderate cost. One of the great pleasures of driving these slow-revving engines with big flywheels is driving without using the clutch -- use it only to get going or stopped and just match the revs for all moving shifts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 (edited) My 1915 Buick has a cone clutch Yes, basically they are in or out. Neatsfoot oil if they are grabby, talcum powder if they slip. And yes. The early Studebakers had a Transaxle. Worked on several in the past. Dandy Dave! Edited March 25, 2017 by Dandy Dave (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Gray Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 As mentioned earlier, the Kevlar lining is a great option. We had a Pierce relined this year and the engagement is very smooth. The lining was done by a gentleman from Delaware. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted March 25, 2017 Share Posted March 25, 2017 7 hours ago, Dave Gray said: As mentioned earlier, the Kevlar lining is a great option. We had a Pierce relined this year and the engagement is very smooth. The lining was done by a gentleman from Delaware. I vote for leather on all of my cone clutch vehicles. Lasted 100 years, I do not think I will last longer than the reline. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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