oakhurst

My 53 Special leaks coolant from the block on the drivers side. Looks like previous owner tried JB weld or something, but it still leaks. Anybody have a good engine? 949-291-6584

Great! Thank you. Access from under the car I assume. I will look for it tomorrow..

Top does not work at all. Cannot find the motor/pump. Any help please? 949-291-6584

Top not working. Trying to find the motor that powers the hydraulic pump to operate the top.

I sent Hans pictures via email and he was able to submit them to the forum I believe.

I get no pictures at all on this forum. My email is rwendt@sti.net. I am happy to forward and receive any pictures from my email.. Hans and I have been exchanging info that way. Any other interested individuals should feel free to contact me.

Stude17 I think you are correct also. Thanks for your input.

Hans, Just read your last post and I think you are right on all comments.

The picture I sent should have been rotated 180. The inlet is the single tube below the large round barrel. the two outlets are at the top, the lower one sending oil back into to pan to fill the dipping trays, and the upper one with the 90 degree elbow goes up to the sight gauge, and then returns to the front of the engine to the timing gear and then pack into the pan. There is no valve that would change the pressure to either of the two discharge lines. I pulled the pan, attached everything to it, added 4 quarts of oil and stroked the piston manually. We did get oil from both discharge fittings. Just not sure of the volume. The cam lope looks to move the pump piston about 3/8 of an inch. Will try an put the pan back on in the next few days. Thanks Hans for posting my pictures, They did show up in the posting for me.

All I get is a little blue box with a question mark in the center. When I click on it nothing happens. i am MAC. I will send some pics to your email.

I am not seeing any pictures. The pump has two discharge lines. One goes to the sight gauge on the dash, then back down to the front of the engine to lube the timing gear, then back into the pan. The other discharge which is getting oil first, dumps back into the pan to fill the "tray" in the pan that hold oil in four dished out areas for the rods to scoop oil for the rod bearings. That is the complete oil system. I think the check valve in the piston in the pump is only to keep the pump lubed. If I knew how to post picture on this site I would be happy to. If anyone provides an email address i would be happy to send them directly. My email is rwendt@sti.net.

I checked them on the main line and they are functioning. The valve in the piston was confusing but I think I got it loosened up. WD40 and air pressure. It seems to move now. Not sure I understand it, but putting it back tomorrow. Will keep you posted.

I agree that this check valve not working properly could be the problem, however we don't really know what it is supposed to do. It does seem to open and close. Other than cleaning it thoroughly, there seems to be nothing else to do. It does not come apart without drilling it out.

Will be putting the pan and pump back on tomorrow. If still no flow, I'm thinking about an electric oil pump. Any thoughts on that?

I'm thinking that this spring loaded valve built into the piston might be to allow some oil to pass through the piston to lube the cylinder and piston itself.

Interesting. The Studebaker has a cowl gas tank, similar to a Model A, gravity feed. With the 1915 Stude, the gas tank fill is on the dash, passenger side.

This oil pump is a horizontal piston driven off the camshaft. It sends oil two places. One to the sight gauge on the dash, then to the front of the engine for the timing gear and back to the pan. The other is back into the pan to fill the "trays" that hold oil for the scoops on the the rods to oil those bearings. We're not getting enough volume of oil. All passages are clear and tight. The piston appears to be "tight" enough to it's cylinder to "suck" and Push". but there is an opening in the "dome" of the piston with a spring inside and a hole at 90 degrees emerging on the side of the piston just below the "pad" that rides on the camshaft. We do not know the purpose of this mechanism inside of the piston. Is it a check valve? How does it come apart? Right now my plan is to enlarge one of the exiting grooves on the piston (similar to those on a normal piston) and fit an O ring to increase compression. Is anyone familiar with this pump?

With all due respect to the Non detergent oil controversy, this is a new vehicle to me and I do not know what oil has been used in the past. I suspect non detergent oil has been used and perhaps this is my problem, not the oil but the sludge left in the pan. But thank you for your comment.

Installed the cleaned and tested pump, added 4.5 quarts of 30w non detergent oil, started the engine and still no flow. Will now be towing/pushing car to the barn where the lift is. Then pull the pan and hopefully find the problem. Perhaps sludge in the pan. Can't think of anything else that would cause the pump not to flow.

Studenut1915 Thanks so much for your comment. What I have learned so far is consistent with what you said. I found debris (a French work for trash) on the sealing ball bearing on the check valve. Am about to resemble and test for flow at the sight gauge.. After your comment I may consider removing the pan and checking that out further.

Got the pump out. Now to see if we can find out what's wrong

Doing an oil change on a recently obtained 1948 Packard with the 327 straight eight flathead. Owner's manual says 20 wt for temps 10 degrees above. 10 wt for temps lower. This is a 70 yr old engine that I have no history on. It runs great and very quietly. Would a multigrade such as 10/30, or 5/30 be appropriate?

I agree about the faulty check ball. Trying to remove the pump now.

Priming did not work so I am trying to remove the oil pump. It is a piston type pump driven by the camshaft. I got it all disconnected and loose, but what I think is the piston wrapped in a coil spring moves but will not come out from the block. Any ideas? I will try again tomorrow.

I did finally read the manual and when working properly the pumped oil goes through the sight glass and then to the timing gears at the front of the engine, then back into the pan. It is called a "Circulating Splash System" combined with "Forced Feed" to timing gears and "Forced Feed Spray" to the connecting rod bearings. It also says that the piston pump may go dry after non use and should be primed. That is my next step.