ddiaz396 Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 Last two days I was cleaning gunk and sludge from engine, removed old gasket and finished welding the valley cover. Primed fan, fan pulley and water pump and tomorrow I will finish with the paint.....getting close to put everything back together. I was debating what to use with the gasket (Water pump, thermostat,valve cover, valley cover) High temperature RTV or gasket spray adhesive......after looking in Youtube I decided to go with the gasket spray adhesive. Any suggestions? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Make sure the fan blades are as smooth as possible when painting, and check to make sure they're not bent. The slightest bend or bump will be enough to cause turbulence which can cause engine vibration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted September 14, 2016 Author Share Posted September 14, 2016 Done!!! Tomorrow will start to put it together....... 6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted September 17, 2016 Author Share Posted September 17, 2016 Everything was going smooth until I decided to check the exhaust manifold heat control valve ........it was frozen!! I didn't know if was closed or open, so I removed the manifold (now I will paint them)and it didn't budge (Used the torch, oil ,etc,,,nothing)so I use the manifold from my spare car. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted September 17, 2016 Share Posted September 17, 2016 If it was stuck open, it's better than being stuck closed. I ripped my butterfly out because mine was also frozen and the counter weight turned freely. It's there to heat the engine and carb until warm up. I run my car all year round and even in the winter up here in Washington, I didn't notice any changes. I'm pretty sure it has to do with winter blend fuel, but someone else can chime in. I also plugged the heat track in the intake manifold with 7/16 all thread, as others have done. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 18, 2016 Share Posted September 18, 2016 May I ask for a picture? Can you post a picture of the manifold with the frozen valve, looking at the orientation of the slot that the outer spring goes into? I am just trying to figure out the orientation of the slot when the valve is fully open. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted September 18, 2016 Author Share Posted September 18, 2016 Here John.....I hope this help......trying to unfrozen I hammered up and close the gap a little, so I put a razor in it so you can see the angle. This valve is in the open position.(disregard the weight position....it turn freely) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 19, 2016 Share Posted September 19, 2016 Thank you! A huge help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 I take it yours is stuck, too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted September 20, 2016 Share Posted September 20, 2016 No, mine is free. Too free. There is supposed to be a stop so the valve cannot go too far. Mine is missing. So my valve can float freely. The problem I have: my car makes a clicking noise under inconsistent circumstances. Sometimes under power, sometimes backing off to slow down. I have run the diagnostics on everything I can think of to find this intermittent click. What I want to do is eliminate this valve rotating while under way. I just did not know what orientation the shaft had to be in for the valve to be open, and I did not want to wire the valve in the closed position. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 Brake time!!! Since I removed the manifold for painting, I decided to replace the brakes components(Clean power master cylinder, wheel cylinders{rear and front}, turn the drums, the three brake hoses, clean and grease front wheel bearings and brake shoes. 1956 Buick lovers notice a rare sight.......two 1956 master cylinders!!!! The 3 car dosn't have the original master cylinder, somebody replace for some kind of dual power cylinder (I need to look into it!!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemon Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 The best of luck to you with the power brake conversion notes. I've always wanted to justify doing it, but where that one is mounted requires cutting the body, and I can't bring myself to do that kind of mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 I see three different masters here, what system will you be using Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted September 29, 2016 Author Share Posted September 29, 2016 the one from my car is the black one.......the other one is from my "parts" car 1956 Buick Special (green and white) the converted is from the white 1956 Super hardtop (next in line to be restore). The one in the back of the white Buick it s a 1950 Hudson third in restoration line. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 12, 2017 Author Share Posted January 12, 2017 long time.... Quote .......finally!!! after 4 months working(on and off) the car started today!!! runs great(after some adjustments)Brakes done(new lines, all connectors, power brake,new wheel cylinders,Etc)new engine gasket(all of them!!)new fuel tank, new fuel lines, oil pump screen filter, transmission screen pump filter, power steering hose)...very happy!! but (Always something) I don't have reverse......( the service manual book talks about adjusting bands or servo not working) I don't know what to do......I'm thinking about getting a rebuild transmission ($1500 shipping and core include) or removing one of the two spare Dynaflow that I have and replace it(anybody in Fl that works with dynaflow transmissions?) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 16, 2017 Author Share Posted January 16, 2017 Unfortunally transmission needs to be remove.......after adjusting the linkage, reverse won't work....any tips pulling transmission down? I know rear have to move back about 4 inches....any tips how to? raise the back of the car, loose brake, e. brake and shocks and then use a come along? Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Disconnect the flex line, disconnect rear shocks and the rear springs at the bottom. Jack car up at the sides a little and roll the rear axle backawards. Lift the rear as needed to clear the tires. Alternately, if you have a smooth surface to park the car, remove the rear tires and support axle on a rolling floor jack. Then the other things mentioned above and pull the rear axle back while on the floor jack. Might as well pull the rear axle out from under the car while you're in there. A good opportunity to clean, paint, and to grease the splines on the driveshaft to pinion connection. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 Today I pulled down the second transmission from my spare car....so now I have two transmission off the cars.....later this week I will be removing the transmission for the car I'm restoring.... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Wow, energetic! Nice job! The one from the spare car looks like it was cleaned up once before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 Yes John, I cleaned it myself (using oven cleaner) the second one was remove yesterday......the second spare car is in bad shape and it was a nasty job!!! This is the way I finished!! .Today I will start disconnecting things in the car I'm restoring so I can pull down the transmission that it's not working.....so I will have a total of three dynaflow transmission.....but I'm thinking in rebuild the original transmission and later on restore one of the two spare transmission to keep as a back up.The transmission in the picture attached is the one is coming down. Daniel 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Daniel, you need to stay away from white doorways and golden retrievers until YOU are cleaned up 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bhigdog Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 Nice jack stands..................Bob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 33 minutes ago, Bhigdog said: Nice jack stands..................Bob Daniel please don't work under your cars with the cinder blocks. I have seen these crumble and loads shift. I would hate to imagine being trapped or crushed under a Buick. If I can find them, I will post pictures for you of when I changed out my tranny on my 56' Saludos Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 22, 2017 Author Share Posted January 22, 2017 Yes, I know!!!! but the car was in a shed with sand floor.....very difficult place. What you don't see is I have 6 jack stands and a car jack holding the car.....but believe me...I was very scare!!! NEVER work in this condition....but this time was the only way....but all of you are right....never again. I started to remove the rear axel in my car(the one Im restoring with the faulty transmission,{ will not go in reverse}). The shocks were "gone", the bottom bolts were easy to removed(used a air ratchet)but I encounter a challenge with the top bolt(used the torch) and managed to loosed it but it will not come out (no enough space) I will have to remove the holdind bracket (two small bolts). Next will be the spring bolts(will remove the spring to sandblaste and paint) I been usin Blaster BP penetrating oil for two days now.....they look very "challenging" ...they will not come out easy..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted January 22, 2017 Share Posted January 22, 2017 Daniel I used a transmissin jack I purchased from. Harbor Freight. It has a chain that attaches around the transmission and has a nice angle adjustment for taking out the transmission. I also used a floor jack and a wooden block across the oil pan to stabilize the engine when removing the transmission. Matt 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 23, 2017 Author Share Posted January 23, 2017 Thanks for the tips Matt! I have a motorcycle jack to do the job. Did you remove the springs when you pulled down the transmission? Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 half of the way......rear axel is free.....only need to disconnect rubber brake line.....tomorrow I will start to remove the transmission..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 Nice work Daniel! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks John! now the difficult part start.......I'm thinking about pulling the rear axel all the way to service it(just clean and paint).I found a leak at the end of the torque tube...the seal may be compromise. I will be sandblasting and painting the springs and replacing the shocks, also using some Por 15 in the undercarriage over the shocks area. Daniel 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 26, 2017 Share Posted January 26, 2017 The seal is definitely compromised at the front of the torque tube. Buy a "front torque tube seal" from Bob's or Cars when you buy your other parts. I would definitely change the inner and outer axle seals as well as lubing your axle bearings. If the rear end was not noisy, that is the only service I would recommend. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 26, 2017 Author Share Posted January 26, 2017 Thanks for the advise buick5563,I will do that......what about the springs? they don't go bad? Also the only replacement shocks I found, are gas operate or activate....they will do? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 27, 2017 Share Posted January 27, 2017 Springs definitely can sag after 60 years. I have used these guys several times. Their product is good and accurate, as well as being relatively inexpensive. https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/ In my opinion, you may want to order them slightly lower if you like the way your cars sits now (with the sag). The car will be higher with new springs. I would just buy any quality shock absorber. You are fortunate that 1956 had tube shocks already and you don't have to get lever action shocks rebuilt. I'm not saying anything about the ride difference, merely that replacement tube shocks are cheaper than a rebuild situation. Lastly, I would buy from Bobs Automobilia for the rear end parts. The last rear seals I bought from Cars weren't right. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted January 28, 2017 Share Posted January 28, 2017 Daniel, concrete block pillars hold up buildings, but when laid on their sides or on end they loose their structural integrity and as pointed out will collapse. If you do have to use them, just ensure they are laid with their walls vertical and tops level and use a 2x8 on top to spread the load. I also appreciate what you're saying about sand and dirt, jack stands on dirt can be dangerous also, so I use squares of 3/4" plywood under the jack stands in that case. Also keep the car level as possible. Great work you're doing here, enjoying following it and learning a lot. Thanks for sharing with us. ? 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 29, 2017 Author Share Posted January 29, 2017 I never will use concrete blocks again.....I'm learning myself....with the help of great people in this forum....I could't do this alone, my expertise is very limited...just the guidance and knowledge of very nice gentlemen in this site encourages me to try it (also $$$$ that I dont have to pay somebody). Now the hard part began and I have some questions 1- How do I reach the bolts in the bell housing(specially in the top)? using a universal socket and extension bars from the bottom of the car ?1/2 or 3/4 inch? in which order do I loosen them? 2-Do I need to remove the starter ? 3- do I need to drain the torque converter or can I remove the transmission like that? 4-remove the flywheel cover to loosen 3 bolts that attached the converter to the engine(flywheel)? I will pull the rear axel with the torque tube first and then loosen the bolts in the transmission. Any other tips or suggestions will be appreciated, thanks in advance, Daniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 Daniel, I figure you already have the car jacked up so this is kinda late, but I would recommend removing the top bolt on each side of the engine from under the hood, not under the car. Then I would jack the car and drain the trans oil pan while removing the rear axle. I would pull the starter, but some will probably disagree. After unbolting the three flywheel to converter bolts, and supporting the rear of the engine and placing your trans jack, then I would assess your access to the other 4 trans to engine bolts. From under the car I would remove the hardest to reach first, and work my way to the easiest to reach. Chances are the trans will not just fall back because of the locator pins it's resting on. And I might consider loosening the last two bolts while leveraging the trans off of the locator pins. That way it is less likely to slip rearwards and fall of the trans jack. And once it is clear of the pins then it should be an easy drop to the floor. Of course you already dropped two of them so you may not need any of this information. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 I use these from the top side to remove those bolts. They are really hard to get to from below the car. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted January 30, 2017 Share Posted January 30, 2017 1 hour ago, buick5563 said: I use these from the top side to remove those bolts. They are really hard to get to from below the car. Or if you are less flexible like me, use a 5/8 impact universal socket with looooong extensions. Remove the lowest bolts last while supporting the the engine and transmission...unless you jack up the engine and/or transmission the top will stay together from normal weight. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 30, 2017 Author Share Posted January 30, 2017 I just purchased this.....any good??? Buick Dynaflow Torque Ball Repair STOP LEAK Seal Kit & Retainer 1953-60 $93.60 $104.00 Qty: 12345678910+ Select a shipping service for Buick Dynaflow Torque Ball Repair STOP LEAK Seal Kit & Retainer 1953-60 USPS Priority Mail Legal Flat Rate EnvelopeEst. delivery: Fri, Feb. 03FAST 'N FREE Free 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted January 31, 2017 Share Posted January 31, 2017 That appears to have everything you wil need. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddiaz396 Posted January 31, 2017 Author Share Posted January 31, 2017 Ok....done!! I managed to separate the torque tube from the transmission (today I will remove the rear axel all the way, to clean and paint it) also started to remove the panhard bar and bracket for sandblast and paint (bushed seems to be ok). Yesterday I ordered and a front seal (found a thread about how to replace front seal removing the torque convertor.... How to: 1956 Dynaflow Torque Converter Reassembly Started by 1956century, November 16, 2016 How difficult it will be? needs special tools? I will start to plan for the removal of the transmission(thanks for all the tips and advice!!! JohnD1956 ,buick5563, old-tank, MrEarl, jackofalltrades70, everybody!!! you really know about Buick's.....I could't do it without your help, Daniel PS i do have those wrenches but mine are Crasftman... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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