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new 1956 Super owner


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Started to look like a car! Thanks that I have the spare car, to guide myself for reassembly.....the two little metal pieces and the end of the fender are rusted away, I will tray to reproduce them with some sheet metal from Tractor Supply.......will see. I can't figured out what kind the screw go in the radiator shroud....anybody have some pictures? Thanks, Daniel

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This is what I have ......boxes with pieces, many bolts and screws without any order...the person that took the car apart never use any kind of organization...."what you see is what you  got"

Some good news ....I found the original battery holder

bolts.jpg

bolts1.jpg

battery_holder.jpg

Edited by ddiaz396
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bad news.... this morning I found a small leak coming from the high accumulator(driver side), so I tied the nut(in the original removed transmission the nut size is a 7/8...in the transmission installed now in the car is 1'...(????)could be a problem?) but still leaking. Can I replace the gasket in the accumulator without removing the transmission from the car? I know there is three bolts holding the accumulator...if I remove them to change the gaskets....will have to drain transmission fluid again?will transmission fluid be pouring from accumulator space when removed? Thanks Daniel

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well,  things can go wrong in any moment.....now the car, runs for a few minutes and will run out of fuel.... i took the pump out and cleaned(looks ok when I opened,  diaphragm looks fine, valves were clean ), put it back and started again....runs for 20 to 30 minutes and again starved(fuel filter was empty)maybe I should install a fuel line check valve?...so I thought was vapor lock...I will  buy an electric fuel pump( I hate to change the original setup) and try the car again...any electric fuel pump recommendation? (Mr Gasket is OK?)Also I started looking for tires....any suggestions for size.... 225/75/15?.......235/70/15? original 7.60/15? Thanks, Daniel

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225/75/15.......235/75/15....... 7.60/15 ; 70 series are too wide

Mr Gasket is durable but noisy

Airtex do not stand up to heavy use

Carter is effective and quiet, but is not a pull through so it will need to be a stand alone unit or loop around with a check valve (what I use)

Edited by old-tank (see edit history)
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Is your pump original? I can't remember if you had it rebuilt or not, but depending on the fuel used, it can eat the old diaphragms alive.

 

Don't buy bias-ply tires. There was a thread on here last national meet where the quality of bias-ply tires these days are "show quality" only. If I were shopping for white walls, I would go with Diamondback Radials. They use modern tires from over the counter and "braze" a whitewall to it. 

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original.....I will hate spend the money in a rebuild kit and find out that it's "vapor lock".....yesterday, when I put the pump apart, I noticed that the valves were very "dry"(the car didn't run for years!!)so I used some WD40 and Mystery oil.....also put some transmission fluid in the gas(some of the valves sounded "sticky")diaphragm looks ok...then, run the car....smoked a little be but sounded great....I think that the car needs to be run for some time, so everything start working again....but it's not fun to be stranded by the road( I only drive the car around my neighbor). I just went back to the car, connected a hose at the in of the fuel pump and with a container with gas and the car started again, then I connected again to the hose coming from the fuel tank and the car run fine!!! I put the car away for today. Also, I'm looking for some "regular" tires(no white wall) my car is a Super and was a "working" family model so I don't need any fancy tires.....just good driving tires. Tomorrow I will keep working with the car. Daniel 

PS. Once again.... sorry about my written english....I try!!

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yes John everything is new...except the coil.....but the problem is gas, the car run out of gas.....when I disconnect the gas hose coming from the pump to the carburetor, no gas come out.....the pump is not pumping gas. I'm thinking about buying a new remanufactured fuel pump in E-Bay....somebody from Ca is selling it for $119+ shipping(sending my as core +$15 for shipping). My mechanic friend said it's the fuel pump....he told me that when a car doesn't run, the valves inside the fuel pump will not work properly....but why they work fine when I start the car? why they stop working after running the car for 20 to 30 minutes? John, whats size are the tires in your Super? you have white wall modern tires? Thanks, Daniel 

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My tires are 225-75-15.  But I don't think they are the right size.  I should also have the 7:60-15 size and my speedometer is way faster than the actual speed of the car.  The speedometer is 10 MPH faster at 65MPH.  When the speedometer is showing 65 MPH the car is only traveling 55 MPH. 

 

This leads me to think the diameter of the tire is too small. But there are on-line tire conversion charts.  They will tell you what the rolling diameter of your original tires should be, and then from there you can work with your tire specialist to find a set of tires that matches that rolling diameter as close as possible.

 

Going back to the vapor lock situation.  Does this situation occur if you just have the car idling for 20 minutes?  Or is it when you are driving the car for 20 minutes?

 

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29 minutes ago, JohnD1956 said:

My tires are 225-75-15.  But I don't think they are the right size.  I should also have the 7:60-15 size and my speedometer is way faster than the actual speed of the car.  The speedometer is 10 MPH faster at 65MPH.  When the speedometer is showing 65 MPH the car is only traveling 55 MPH. 

 

This leads me to think the diameter of the tire is too small. But there are on-line tire conversion charts.  They will tell you what the rolling diameter of your original tires should be, and then from there you can work with your tire specialist to find a set of tires that matches that rolling diameter as close as possible.

 

I also have 225/75R15 tires as suggested, and with the 3.36 gears this was the case for me. With 3.23 gears now, it's only 5 MPH off. Radials just flatten out more, even when inflated. It's what they're designed to do, to give the car more rolling surface area. Bias-plys are the obvious choice for vintage cars. They're more firm and taller at their inflated weight, but the junk they sell these days can cause a blow out at 60 MPH and if you're not running tubes, you can be in serious trouble. It's like Pertronix. A couple years ago, they were bulletproof, but now they must be made in China. I think the issue is that the scale is for 28" diameter tires is just that, 28" diameter at full weight road surface. If your 28" radials are 28" inflated off the car, but then loaded onto the car, they may be only 27" in diameter and that will offset the speedo.

 

Bear in mind when looking for 225/75R15 tires, all that's really available over the counter is SUV tires. There's nothing wrong with that, but according to the Firestone clerk, I was a fool for not getting their wider performance tires for my "hot rod".

 

I almost forgot to ask, but ddiaz396, are you running ethanol? It will perforate the old fuel pump diaphragms. Mine lasted about as long as yours did.

Edited by Beemon (see edit history)
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Running or idling makes no difference... in the beginning I thought that happens when the car was idling....the car got very hot when is not running(remember I live in Fl, today was 83 degrees) but today I was running (was running great!!) and about two blocks from home, started missing....I did about 100 yard and  the car stopped completely....I waited a few minutes and the car started again.....managed to go home and then it stopped again....let it seat for a couple of hours,come back.....unhooked the fuel line coming from the tank and in the "in" of the fuel pump I connected an auxiliary hose with the other end, in a container with gas....primed the pump a few times and the car started again....once more I stopped, reconnected the fuel line coming from the tank and drive the car to the garage...at this time the car was running great again....let it idle a little be and still running fine......let see whats happening tomorrow...... my mechanic friend must be correct( he always got the right answer) the valves must  stop working and make the pump stop pumping gas....he said that I should keep driving the car....that the more I use it ,the better the valves will get....I will keep trying. I checked the diaphragm and it was fine....yes I use regular(10% ethanol) gas.  

 

  

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11 hours ago, ddiaz396 said:

yes John everything is new...except the coil.....but the problem is gas, the car run out of gas.....when I disconnect the gas hose coming from the pump to the carburetor, no gas come out.....the pump is not pumping gas. I'm thinking about buying a new remanufactured fuel pump in E-Bay....somebody from Ca is selling it for $119+ shipping(sending my as core +$15 for shipping). My mechanic friend said it's the fuel pump....he told me that when a car doesn't run, the valves inside the fuel pump will not work properly....but why they work fine when I start the car? why they stop working after running the car for 20 to 30 minutes? John, whats size are the tires in your Super? you have white wall modern tires? Thanks, Daniel 

 

  Is there a filter between the pump and the carburetor??  If so, unhook the gas line at filter INLET and check for flow. If there is a filter between pump and tank, check or replace it.

 

  Ben

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Did you get a coil with the parts cars?  If so I would swap that in first and test again.  I understand that you opened the fuel line and had no flow while cranking, but it seems very unlikely that the valves in the fuel pump would stop and then restart working, and if the diaphragm in the fuel pump was compromised it would not repair itself.  The other possible issue is that somewhere the fuel line is too close to the exhaust, but even that seems unlikely to cause a continuous problem at 20 minutes run time.  It seems more likely to me that with a consistent break down at 20 minutes that the problem is electrical in nature and if you have a coil on hand to test that theory, then there is no cost to exploring the possibility.

 

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Try it with the electric fuel pump but don't run it through the mechanical pump because if there is even a tiny hole in the diaphragm it will force fuel into the oil pan.  With the electric pump running check for leaks in the line from the tank to carb...if there is a leak it explains why the mechanical is failing to pump fuel.

Edited by old-tank (see edit history)
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car runs great today.....drive the car around....fuel pump working fine....installed two filters in fuel line, one before fuel pump, another before carburetor. Tomorrow will do some more reassembly 

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Took some pictures of the job done....also have a question....if you remembered the car came with a different carburetor, but searching in the spare parts I found the original Carter WFBC....after rebuilt it, I installed in the car....my question is, the choke doesn't have a connector( I don't know how you call the tube that goes from the choke to the manifold) is missing....it's a regular tube? can I use a fuel or brake line to replace it? if the answer is yes, does anybody know whats size? I searched the web and I can't find a replacement or any pictures or any information about it .....what can I do? in case that I  could replace it....how to regulate the choke(I opened today and has a gasket and two small metal plates and the top with the spring....how difficult will be to make it work?should I remove it and, somehow, make a manual choke(I don't like to do that!) or is something simple to repair. Any advise will be appreciate. Attached some pictures showing the stage of the restoration job. Posted a picture of the transmission leak, with a transmission fluid container, to compare the size of the leak....I parked the car last night....so that leak it's a 12 to 14 hours leak...should I worry or I can live with that leak? it's not much....I will hate to do everything again!! Installed spare seat in order to drive the car. Also notice spare fuel pump (painted blue) installed in the car. Still working great!! I will buy a rebuild kit and rebuild a spare fuel pump.....I opened, cleaned and tickled those fuel pump so many times than I'm a kind of "expert" in 1956 fuel pumps!!. Air filter done and installed in the car. Looks good!

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fuel pump1.JPG

seat.JPG

leak air filter.JPG

leak2.JPG

IMG_0068.JPG

Edited by ddiaz396
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The kits for those choke stoves used to be available at the NAPA store on the help board.  Not sure they are still there.  The kit included the soft steel tube, fitting and a insulating sleeve for the tube.  Regardless, you will have trouble with that housing as it appears the threads are severely stripped.

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Regarding the trans leak.  Is the spot getting smaller?  If so keep driving it.  It only looks like a few drips at this point and considering the work to repair, I'd leave it alone for a while longer to see if it stops.

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The choke tube is the smallest brake line you can buy. If you're lucky, what's left of the old line is either missing from the manifold or will come out easy. You'll need a special flare nut that is female end and not male end like normal brake line. You can probably salvage this off of one of the lines on your other spare parts cars if they still have it. When I did my dual quad mod, I was lucky to find an old hydraulic hose shop that does industrial work for CAT and the big rig places in the surrounding areas - they had the fitting as well. The issue is going to be finding a nut that's long enough to seat on those good threads, though.

 

Last time I was at my NAPA, I couldn't find the kit. However, all NAPAs are different. Likewise, CARs still sells the kit.

 

 

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I have cut the stripped portion of that nipple before and made it work. I think it is a 1/8" ID tube. Flare the end AFTER you have the female nut on the tube. You can get the female end at a good auto parts store.

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7 minutes ago, buick5563 said:

I have cut the stripped portion of that nipple before and made it work. I think it is a 1/8" ID tube. Flare the end AFTER you have the female nut on the tube. You can get the female end at a good auto parts store.

Seems that all of mine have stripped threads, but will usually hold since the flare nut does not have to be very tight.  Try the flare nut and tube before the other end is hooked up and if it won't hold, deform the flare nut a little bit.  I use a center punch on one of the flats.

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It's this the kit??

$_57.JPG
$_57.JPG
$_57.JPG

 Description

1953-1967 Buick Choke Stove Kit

Fits: 1953 Super, Roadmaster, Skylark;

All Models thru 1954-1967

with Heat Riser Tube off Manifold

Comes Complete with 24" of Insulator

Another Quality Reproduction By
CARS, Inc.

 

We Carry a Comprehensive Line of Buick Parts from 1935-1987
Serving the Buick Hobby Since 1973

We Ship Worldwide.

Call us Anytime 908-369-3666
 

 Item Specifics
Condition: New
Interchange Part Number: 1953 53 1954 54 1955 55 1956 56 1957 57 1958 58
Manufacturer Part Number: CSK530
Other Part Number: 1959 59 1960 60 1961 61 1962 62 1963 63 1964 64
Part Brand: CARS, Inc.
Warranty: Yes
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once again I have problems with the car......already replaced 3 fuel pumps....I thought that the problem was resolved but today happen again...the car runs for 15 to 20 minutes and then will run out of gas....I have spark, but no fuel....the pump will not pump gas! I replaced the gas tank, cleaned the pick up tube in the tank, new fuel lines, new filters, new hoses....it happen with the three pumps I installed....can't be the fuel pump!! no three failures....the car runs great for 20 minutes and then.....no gas...if I connect an electric pump to the mechanical pump the car will start again and run fine with the electric pump on.....after 2 to 3 minutes running with the two pumps (electric and mechanical) I stopped and removed the electric pump leaving the mechanical connected and.....the D@#$m!! car will run fine again for 15 to 20 minutes....can be that I loose the prime in the line or pump....I purchased an electric pump....tomorrow I will permanent, install the new electric pump close to the tank(with a switch on and off) and run with both pumps....I wish somebody have a suggestion. Thanks Daniel

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Daniel

It has been suggested more than three times that you have one of your pumps rebuilt with "ethanol" resistant parts.  You were advised that this third pump would fail sooner or later.......

 

I would suggest installing a rebuilt pump and the electric one for priming the carburetor after car sits awhile and on hot days.  Will help overcome vapor-lock

 

Matt

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