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new 1956 Super owner


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On 2/28/2017 at 10:08 PM, jackofalltrades70 said:

Daniel

take one of your extra pumps and send it out to be rebuilt.  You will thank us later. The fuel "will " destroy the one you have on there because the material the diaphram is made of will be destroyed by the newer gas. (Ethanol)

 

Matt

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I'm relaying this for a friend who is having problems posting....

 

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It is NOT likely the fuel pumps are failing. Someone needs to tell him to check his supply line for pin holes or sucking air. Mine did same thing until I found the pinhole. Thanks, John

 

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That's possible....I was thinking about some kind of leak in the line ....I will run a temporary line from the tank to the pump to see if I can find the trouble, what about having a plastic filter before the input in the pump?. Somebody told me that it's not good....will break the prime of the pump....it's possible?. Yes Matt, I saw your post....but the pumps that were in the three cars, they were ready rebuilt.....they have the new staff in the diaphragm...they weren't use for sometime(the three car weren't running for years) but it's not possible that the three fuel pumps experience the same failure (15 minutes working and then stop pumping fuel)  I don't like the idea of using an electric pump but I running out of ideas...today after installing the electric pump, I will start working in the dash board....I will remove the top, to access the instrumental. 

Edited by ddiaz396
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thanks EmTee for your help.....I did....the cap is loose anyway, but I removed it.....I went to the auto parts store and got 10 ft of 5/16 fuel hose....I will replace the fuel line as close as  I can from the tank(when I replaced the original fel line I used four different section, I didn't want to work with one 25' roll, so I got two 6ft and a 3ft pls the piece of rubber hose to connected to the fuel pump....maybe is a leak in some part of the line or maybe is soaking air and I loose the fuel pump prime with the car running, because  the car runs great for 15 to 20 minutes and then starved of fuel)will try a solid line from the tank to the fuel pump....will see...Daniel

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When were the fuel pumps rebuilt and how long did they go unused? When ethanol dries up, the rubber pieces become brittle and hard whether it's ethanol resistant or not. After so many years, the pumping action just rips itself apart. In my opinion, you need a fresh rebuild to really diagnose whether the pump is good or not. It's the same with ethanol resistant rubber power valves in carburetors. They work fine until the car sits in storage, and then they swell up and cause all sorts of issues.

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I decided to rebuild the fuel pump first.....I don't want to change the original car set up of mechanical fuel pump.... Last weekend I went to he swap meet  in Wester, Fl and I found a gentleman  name "Cowboy" John ( John Plaskan http://www.cowboyjohnsautoparts.com )great guy!! Been in business for a long time....he works in fuel pump, water pumps,carburetor rebuild, all kind of kits, gasket, etc and his prices are very reasanoble ...so he will rebuild my fuel pump for $95... (I was paying more for the rebuild kit). Started to work in the body of the car....took a spare fender and started removing the paint ( I will practice will the spare parts before , to gain some expertise ) I got a HVLP system from HF and I used to painted some farm equipment....I loved it!! Is simple to use and clean.....no contamination in the finish, works fine. I will use to spray the primer ( Kirker epoxy) and I will tray the Duplicoloro one stage paint.....is cheap, easy to use and a good practice to learn how to spray paint. I'm building a paint boot,with 2x4 x8 and sheets of plastic ,to use when I will paint the spare parts.Reorganized my shop....I'm working better now.....using the car lift help my" bones" a lot ...I'm getting to old for this hobby!!! Noticed the third car in the back(1956 

Buick Super) it was the " next" restoration project .....but I don't know

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Hey, that looks like a nice "lift".

Can you provide some details on that? Where you got it and how easy to get the car up there? I see the tie rod between the ramps at the drive up end. Is there a second tie rod at the other end?

What is the measurement from the floor to the top of the roof of the car?

 

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Hi John, they are called Kwik lift( https://kwik-lift.com/) the best way to get them, is be patient and wait for one in Craigslist or E-bay (specially for you in the NY/NJ area!!) new cost about $1100/1500. I got mine in Orlando Craigslist for $ 500(was like new!)....look in the site a sent you, there are very easy to use ( I even got a 12v jack, that will lift the front without any effort) very easy to work with, it come with one centerlift bridge....I will build some kind the deck around, so when is up and you need to work in the car engine or something, I will be able to do so ( is about 2 feet front the ground),,,fits in any regular garage...   

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I decided to pull down the torque tube to repair the leaking seal(the leak doesn't stop)....besides the torque ball seal it's there another seal at the rear of the transmission that can cause a dynaflow transmission to leak? can I access it without removing the transmission again?Why the seal kit have three different kind of gasket? two regular and two papel thin gasket.....any reason why? shimming gasket? the diagham that a got dont show what kind of gasket to use....only show the gasket(see attached diagram) where the thin gasket goes? Anybody? Thanks Daniel

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Did you replace the outer torque ball retainer?  (the installed one looks old)

The supplied kits have gaskets and shims that were needed with the original metal/metal interface...just use 2 gaskets or shims as gaskets with the new one.

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no old-tank.....i didn't replace the torque ball....I purchased but the transmission I installed was (the one from the white Super)the spare transmission....and when that transmission was in the white car.....didn't leak at all !! so " if ain't not broke, don't fix it"......big mistake!! the good thing is that the transmission installed works great!!....but it's leaking.... Yesterday I got back the rebuilt fuel pump....great job! looks like new....he charged me $95 for the job (I was going to pay more than that for just the rebuild kit)   and with a warranty ....his name again is "Cowboy" John (Webster Fl  John Plaskan http://www.cowboyjohnsautoparts.com ) he does all kind of rebuild jobs....great guy

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Finished today!! all mechanical work is done! Today I installed the shroud for the radiator, the rebuilt fuel pump and replaced a part of the fuel line.....the car still running 15 to 20 minutes and run out of gas...the pump(the rebuilt one!!) will quit pumping gas...I don't know what else to do!!....I will have to instal an electric fuel pump....maybe tomorrow I will replace again the fuel line, today I replaced the front part....it's the only thing left to do(just in case is soaking air and the fuel pump loose the prime)Also I will remove the two plastic fuel filters (one before the pump)....my mechanic friend is telling me that  the car should not use a filter before the pump, that will cause problems.....I will instal a solid rubber fuel line, to see it's make any difference....I'm running out of ideas!!!....when run, the car runs great!!! but after a little be, will run out of gas....

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When you rebuilt the carb, did it have a fine filter at the inlet? It sounds like either there is a pinhole in the fuel line and it's aerating the pump or there's a restriction to the fuel bowls and the carb can't fill up the bowls fast enough when driving, like the inlet filter is plugged or the floats were set too low and is prematurely cutting off the flow at the needle and seat. Is this 20 mins driving or 20 mins idling?

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Please remind me -- what's the state of the gas tank and sending unit?  Is the tank clean?  What is the condition of the pickup 'sock' in the tank?

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Greetings

         When I installed a six volt electric fuel pump on my 1940, I wanted to monitor the fuel pressure becuz too much pressure will push the shut-off needle right off the seat in the carb! I found a very small fuel pressure gauge(cheap) and bought a fuel pressure regulator. Inline mounted the pressure regulator and installed a brass tee for the gauge right before the carb, after the fuel filter. You can adjust the pressure right under the hood with the engine running. You know if you have pressure or not and how much. You can guess if you would like, but for a few bucks and a little time, you know exactly what's goin on right at the carb. Fuel pressures can vary depending on condition from age to wether it was rebuilt well etc. There are so many "what ifs"! When I did repair for a "living", we recognised two styles of mechanics, "parts replacers" and ones who knew what a "logical sequence of diagnosis" is. Guess who were the most profitable for the shop and garnered the most credibility! Save time, save money, by doing the tests needed to ID the issue. The parts suggested also allow you to monitor the function on an ongoing basis in "real" time. Just my humble opinion. But beware, advice is usually worth what you pay for it! Good luck!

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2 hours ago, Beemon said:

When you rebuilt the carb, did it have a fine filter at the inlet? It sounds like either there is a pinhole in the fuel line and it's aerating the pump or there's a restriction to the fuel bowls and the carb can't fill up the bowls fast enough when driving, like the inlet filter is plugged or the floats were set too low and is prematurely cutting off the flow at the needle and seat. Is this 20 mins driving or 20 mins idling?

the reason that I put the plastic filter before the fuel pump is because I can see if I'm getting fuel from the tank...when the car runs fine, there is fuel in the filter...when the car start to fail, the filter before the pump it's empty. Also, to be sure that wasn't the carburetor, I connected an electric pump from a gas container ,by passing the mechanical pump, direct to the carburetor  and the car will run fine. The other test I did when the car it's not getting fuel if I disconnect the fuel line coming to the carburetor, there will be no fuel pumping...  I don't think it's the carburetor.

PS sorry about my written english

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1 hour ago, EmTee said:

Please remind me -- what's the state of the gas tank and sending unit?  Is the tank clean?  What is the condition of the pickup 'sock' in the tank?

It's a new tank. I'm using the old sending unit, but I cleaned it thoroughly....I did put it apart and removed all the rust and gunk. The sock was gone, so doesn't have a filter at the pick uk tube. 

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46 minutes ago, ddiaz396 said:

when the car runs fine, there is fuel in the filter...when the car start to fail, the filter before the pump it's empty.

 

That's probably the issue. You're pulling the fuel up hill and it's creating a vacuum. Unless the fuel can flow straight through the filter (downwards or horizontal), there's going to be a pressure differential. You're changing cross sectional area too quickly and your time to the no pump equilibrium state is 20 mins consecutively each time. Get rid of the filter and see if the problem exists. Gravity is the enemy here. 

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I will remove the fuel filter and I will replace the fuel line from the pick up tube tank( it's in three pieces...I couldn't work with a long piece...the fuel line roll was 25' long) but , this time I will use one piece(it's about 8 feet long).....also I considering replacing the fuel tank sending unit for a new one.... 

50 51 52 53 54 55 56 Buick Gas Fuel Tank Sending Unit NEW (Fits: 1956 Buick)

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15 hours ago, ddiaz396 said:

.I will have to instal an electric fuel pump

Do that.

None of my three 55's will run more than 20 minutes either idling or driving before dying of fuel starvation this time of year.  The available winter blend gasoline will boil at just 100*F.  All of mine have electric fuel pumps near the tank to resolve or prevent the problem.

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1 hour ago, old-tank said:

Do that.

None of my three 55's will run more than 20 minutes either idling or driving before dying of fuel starvation this time of year.  The available winter blend gasoline will boil at just 100*F.  All of mine have electric fuel pumps near the tank to resolve or prevent the problem.

What kind and brand of fuel pump are you using in your cars?do I need to spend a lot of $$$?what do you think about airtex or Mr Gasket or Carter? do you use in conjunction with your mechanical pump? do I need a inline pressure regulator ? do you use your pump wit a on/off switch?. I will change the sending unit....it's not working and I will need to know if I got gas or not....also, I will buy a 25" roll of fuel line and I will make a solid line....remove all the cheap plastic filter and connect the mechanical fuel pump with a metal line( I got it connected with a rubber piece)...Today I will start(AGAIN!!!) to the replacement of the torque ball cover....hope doing this will stop the leak ...do you think I should replace the seal at the end of the universal joint at the torque ball inner and outer retainer(it's such a seal? in the diagram I got from the torque ball kit show a seal before the sleeve?(Attached photo of diagram) where the transmission fluid can be leaking other than the torque ball? Sorry to ask so many questions, but your knowledge and expertise(as many other people in this site!!) is very important ....I wish more young people get into this hobby, but unfortunately it's not happening...Thanks for your advise!!! Daniel

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...AND there will not be a "sock" in the gas tank on the pickup tube. That is by design, and unless you have a giant piece of crud in there either through bad gas or vandalism, the car will pass it through to the filter. 

 

Your English is perfectly fine Daniel.

 

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2 hours ago, old-tank said:

Do that.

None of my three 55's will run more than 20 minutes either idling or driving before dying of fuel starvation this time of year.  The available winter blend gasoline will boil at just 100*F.  All of mine have electric fuel pumps near the tank to resolve or prevent the problem.

Willie, I posted  before but I don't see it in the forum so here goes again...what kind of fuel pump do you use? airtex, Mr Gasket, Carter? do I need to spend a lot of $$$?where do you get the power to it?do you use a relay? what size of wire for the power? 16g, 12g? can I get the power from the switch that go to the starter (my started in the accelerator it's not working, I connected a cable with power in a push bottom under the dash...only works when I turn the original switch on). Can I ground it to the frame?Thanks for the help, Daniel

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25 minutes ago, ddiaz396 said:

Willie, I posted  before but I don't see it in the forum so here goes again...what kind of fuel pump do you use? airtex, Mr Gasket, Carter? do I need to spend a lot of $$$?where do you get the power to it?do you use a relay? what size of wire for the power? 16g, 12g? can I get the power from the switch that go to the starter (my started in the accelerator it's not working, I connected a cable with power in a push bottom under the dash...only works when I turn the original switch on). Can I ground it to the frame?Thanks for the help, Daniel

Post  #171

Autozone sells one that is probably an Airtex, but lifetime guaranteed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281596075987?lpid=82&chn=ps&ul_noapp=true ...buy 2 and carry a spare.

Ground to the frame; put a toggle switch in the hole left lower dash (power antenna); find 12v switched on the fuse panel...there is a tab just for this.

Edited by old-tank (see edit history)
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It was vapor lock!!!! Today I removed the cheap fuel filter before the pump, connected a solid metal line to the pump and run the car.....once again 15/20 minutes and the car starved of fuel and quit on me.....I got frustrated and walked away, very upset.....4 hours later returned back(car cooled down)  to get the car and tried to start the engine and.....it worked!! the car runs fine.... so tomorrow, I will install an electric fuel pump with a off/on switch under the dash(I got a pump from ebay) ...will see 

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Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
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Daniel, the fuel line between the pump and the frame was a flex line that moved with engine torque. Make sure it can flex so it doesn't break under vibration. Good luck with the pump! Glad she's running.

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Well, I think I found the problem..... I was going to install the electric fuel pump, when I decided to tray something else(I really wanted to find what  was going on!!)...so I pulled the gas tank down (I ordered a new sending unit) when I empty the tank, nothing estranged, but when I removed the old sending unit....oh boy!!!! big surprise.....something was at the bottom...so I shaked the tank up and then I discovered the source of my problem.....some rat ( or mouse) built a nest in my tank!!! Using the material from the seats Remember....this was a brand new tank...it set in my garage for sometime ( maybe a couple of years) but it was in a box...inside a plastic bag....anyway, the "critter " found the way....it was my fault that I didn't check it out...I assume that " new tank...will be clean" big mistake!!! With the tank down, I cleaned it very well....used a hose and a lot of water .....dry it out with a garden blower and I used a bottle of alcohol.I'm waiting for the ordered new ending unit....I can wait to reinstall the tank and drive the car....

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Anybody!!!

..can I ask you a few questions?  Going back to the Dynaflow, the transmission is working great but leak....John told me that , maybe the car needs to be drive but the leak will not stop....so yesterday I drained the transmission and today I will start to replace the ball torque ( I got the new one, with the rubber seal attached)My questions(hope you don't mind!!) I will leave the transmission in place but I will loose the rear end and with a come along get the 4 or 5 inches needed to remove the ball torque... so 1- Do I need to remove the tires to pull it back?2- when I replace the ball torque how tight it need to be?should I be able to rotate the universal joint or it need to be very tight? should I use some lube in the reattachment? 3-when you did yours, did you replace the torque tube seal? will I have enough room to replace the torque tube seal without pulling the transmission down? With the new ball torque kit I got a diagram that show a seal in the universal joint at the back of the inner torque...can this be a place for a leak or the inner ball torque seal will stop any leaks coming from the rear of the transmission?Once again thanks for your help!! If you ever come to Fl I will own you a beer!! Any other suggestions or advise that you may think to help me to do the job? Daniel

PS I hope my english is clear enough....remember it's my second language...gracias!!  

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anybody??Advise will be appreciate!!Tips, tricks, know how, etc, welcome.....thanks in advance!!! Daniel

Edited by ddiaz396 (see edit history)
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1 hour ago, Ben Bruce aka First Bor said:

Your new sending unit will probably connect to the gas line with a hose, instead of the fitting shown on the old one. You MUST ground the unit some way, or it will not work.

 

  Ben

Thanks Ben...I think it has a brake fuel line connection....but I will ground it anyway 

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