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Restore my buick electra 1969 :)


sebastienbuick

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16 hours ago, RivNut said:

When reassembling, make sure that you torque the balancer to a minimum of 200 lb. ft. 

 

Thanks for the information ;) , what do you want to say for the balancer ?
I'm sorry but I do not speak much English and I did not understand ^^
Thank you :) 

 

 

15 hours ago, GARY F said:

Very nice and time consuming work.

 

Thank you very much GARY F ! ;) 

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4 hours ago, sebastienbuick said:

 

Thanks for the information ;) , what do you want to say for the balancer ?
I'm sorry but I do not speak much English and I did not understand ^^
Thank you :) 

The harmonic balancer

 

 

image.jpeg.5ee53c3b9ab5376ffffd26faee941dfb.jpeg

 

is bolted to the crankshaft and the pulleys are bolted to it.  When you bolt it to the crankshaft, it must be torqued to 200 lb/ft of torque (200 lb / pi de couple)  using a torque wrench.

Image result for torque wrench

 

If the balancer is not bolted on to those specifications, it will work loose and ruin your crankshaft.

 

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On ‎1‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 3:20 PM, sebastienbuick said:

I then disassemble the oil filter and the water pump which is a little over 4 years old to do a check,

 

Don't forget to pack the insides of the oil pump cavity with Petroleum Jelly.  

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On ‎1‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 7:40 PM, RivNut said:

The harmonic balancer

 

 

image.jpeg.5ee53c3b9ab5376ffffd26faee941dfb.jpeg

 

is bolted to the crankshaft and the pulleys are bolted to it.  When you bolt it to the crankshaft, it must be torqued to 200 lb/ft of torque (200 lb / pi de couple)  using a torque wrench.

Image result for torque wrench

 

If the balancer is not bolted on to those specifications, it will work loose and ruin your crankshaft.

 

 

 

Thank you very much for all these explanations, I will do what you tell me when I reassemble this piece :) 
thank you so much :)

 

On ‎1‎/‎6‎/‎2019 at 9:51 PM, JohnD1956 said:

 

Don't forget to pack the insides of the oil pump cavity with Petroleum Jelly.  

 

Yes a friend told me the same thing too, thank you very much for this information :) 
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1 hour ago, sebastienbuick said:

 

 

Thank you very much for all these explanations, I will do what you tell me when I reassemble this piece :) 
thank you so much :)

 

If you don't already have one, you should get a Buick Chassis manual.  It will guide you through the sequence for tightening bolts and the torque you should put on each bolt.

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6 hours ago, RivNut said:

If you don't already have one, you should get a Buick Chassis manual.  It will guide you through the sequence for tightening bolts and the torque you should put on each bolt.

 

Thank you, I buy the "assembly manual" and the "body shop" manual
I will try to find the couple of tightenings for the engine :) 
 
4 hours ago, EmTee said:

Sebastien, where did you find those brake disks?  I recall you saying that you have been looking for them for a long time!

 

Yes I took 4 years to find a solution for the brake disc.
as I did not find, we found records ( disks )  1986 oldsmobile and I have machined the disc completely for them to be exactly like my original, it's expensive but at least I have new disks :).
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18 hours ago, RivNut said:

Sebastian,

 

Rock Auto shows that they carry rotors for the '69 Riviera.  Does anyone know how they differ from an Electra?

 

 

 

 

 

I do not know what the difference is :( , but it seems to me that they are not quite the same.
I will put some pictures soon :) 
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  • 2 weeks later...
Hello everyone, here are some pictures of the rest of the work.
So I continue by the damper compressor valve :) 
 
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Then after having tested, we saw that it would still be in good working order.
I then clean it up and I try to see where was the little leak that there was
 
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I applied paste joint on two "crimped" of this valve because it seemed that the leak came from here
 
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Then I take care of the damper pulley, I first clean the damper and apply black "sika" on the rubber for the protected
and then move on to paint with the red I found original
 
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I did not paint voluntarily the part where there are the threads so as not to create a thickness of paint once the pulley set up and that with time it does not move
 
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A few days before I had taken my alternator to a company specialize in maintenance of alternator.
Then a few days later it was near, they passed the alternator on a test bench, then change two bearing, broom, broom cover, cleaning the mechanics, change pods, ...
I only had to clean the outside, so I polished it
 
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  • 2 weeks later...

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I will no longer sandblasted, apply a rust killer to block the material against rust and then apply gray paste that I put on the heat shield of one of the exhaust manifolds.
My car mechanic also received my distribution, I miss him more if I look for it :) 
here is :) 
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regarding the quick release clamp you have on your positive battery cable . I had a set of those a few years ago and they didn't make that good of a contact . very convenient

 though . I swapped them for some regular factory clamps and was fine after that . maybe I had poor quality ones back then but if you have problems I'd look at the clamps first .  

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12 hours ago, Magic marouke said:

regarding the quick release clamp you have on your positive battery cable . I had a set of those a few years ago and they didn't make that good of a contact . very convenient

 though . I swapped them for some regular factory clamps and was fine after that . maybe I had poor quality ones back then but if you have problems I'd look at the clamps first .  

 

Hello, thank you, I will see with time if it works well.
And if it does not work well I will put tongs as it was before ;) 
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  • 4 weeks later...
Then having to remove the crankcase and have the engine on the rotisserie, I take the opportunity to clean the old oil in the block so that everything is clean
 
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As well as the strainer
 
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In the meantime, I received my distribution kit and other parts, including the oil pump kit
 
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