Jump to content

Proper Tire Inflation


Phillip Cole

Recommended Posts

That is the correct textbook answer.

 

That is the same as the specifications for a 1937. If your car handles anything like my 1937, you will find that the original factory recommendation does not really seem to work that well with modern reproduction tires being driven exclusively on pavement. I am not an expert but I have personally had better results with 30 psi on both the front and rear tires.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My Coker radial tires that LOOK LIKE old bias tires all look like they need air with 32 psi in them. Even if I put 36 in them they don't ever seem to round out like the old bias tires. I wish I would have bought new bias tires instead of what I have but to late now. I have no complaints about the ride or handling just that they always look like they need air. The picture in my avatar still had the original bias tires so they look fine.

Edited by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Restorer32,

     Clarification: When in doubt, I always read the rated tire pressure on the tires and use that pressure.

 

I use the rated tire pressure for my older cars when I lack of information in the car manuals or when original tire types are no longer available.  I have experienced stem shear when my 1912 Buick tires were under inflated, so I prefer to run on the high side. The following is from the Tire Rack website:

Maximum Inflation Pressure

A tire's maximum inflation pressure is the highest "cold" inflation pressure that the tire is designed to contain. However the tire's maximum inflation pressure should only be used when called for on the vehicle's tire placard or in the vehicle's owners manual. It is also important to remember that the vehicle's recommended tire inflation pressure is always to be measured and set when the tire is "cold." Cold conditions are defined as early in the morning before the day's ambient temperature, sun's radiant heat or the heat generated while driving have caused the tire pressure to temporarily increase.

For the reasons indicated above, It is also normal to experience "hot" tire pressures that are up to 5 to 6 psi above the tire's recommended "cold" pressure during the day if the vehicle is parked in the sun or has been extensively driven. Therefore, if the vehicle's recommended "cold" inflation pressures correspond with the tire's maximum inflation pressure, it will often appear that too much tire pressure is present. However, this extra "hot" tire pressure is temporary and should NOT be bled off to return the tire pressure to within the maximum inflation pressure value branded on the tire. If the "cold" tire pressure was correctly set initially, the temporary "hot" tire pressure will have returned to the tire's maximum inflation pressure when next measured in "cold" conditions.

A tire's "maximum inflation pressure" may be different than the assigned tire pressure used to rate the tire's "maximum load." For example, while a P-metric sized standard load tire's maximum load is rated at 35 psi, many P-metric sized standard load performance and touring tires are designed to contain up to 44 psi (and are branded on their sidewalls accordingly). This additional range of inflation pressure (in this case, between 36 and 44 psi) has been provided to accommodate any unique handling, high speed and/or rolling resistance requirements determined by the tire and vehicle manufacturers. These unique tire pressures will be identified on the vehicle placard or the vehicle's owner's manual.

The tire's maximum inflation pressure is indicated in relatively small-sized print branded near the tire's bead (adjacent to the wheel) indicating the appropriate value. Because tires are global products, their maximum inflation pressure is branded on the tire in kilopascals (kPa) and pounds per square inch (psi). These values can also be found in the industry's tire load & inflation charts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I generally inflate to the maximum listed on the tire sidewall.

 

I KNOW THAT THIS IS NOT THE RECOMMENDED PRESSURE !!

 

I find that the ride tends to be a bit stiffer, and handling generally improves somewhat --  but the big benefit is the decreased possibility of hydro-planing. Of course not everyone drives in the rain, but sometimes it happens, and we do A LOT OF TOURING.  I believe in safety first, and will live with the stiffer ride since my Buicks are so supple-riding anyway. 

 

Bias ply tires at 32 psi all around does just fine for me, remembering their limitations. If I want extreme handling I'll drive the '88 Corvette or the '88 BMW. If I want the luxury and comfort of my Roadmaster ........ well you get the idea.

post-97723-0-24739900-1442960641_thumb.j

post-97723-0-71666400-1442960644_thumb.j

post-97723-0-03306800-1442960872_thumb.j

post-97723-0-70906300-1442960944_thumb.j

post-97723-0-99346100-1442961014_thumb.j

post-97723-0-14872300-1442961044_thumb.j

post-97723-0-45118100-1442961088_thumb.j

post-97723-0-11039000-1442961121_thumb.j

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Marty:

Thanks for the photos of the Roadmaster with the top down. The former director of our chapter has a beautiful blue 1937 Roadmaster Phaeton which will never have the top down as long as he will own the car. Also another member has a Green

1937 Special Phaeton who will also never put the top down. Both cars have gotten their senior awards. So I say put the

top down and let the sun shine in! Of course that is my preference. On my ratty, driver, 1925 Standard touring I put the top down in May and put it up in October.

As to tire pressure with my 1937-41 I run 650X16 Firestone Bias at 30 psi all around. At lower front pressure the tires do squeal a bit. Rode and handled well on our 1,585 mile round trip to Nashville TN.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also run my tires at the max tire pressure marked on the sidewall.  The tire pressure on the door or "B" pillar are the recommended tire pressure by the manufacturer for the "best" overall performance as defined by the manufacturer's engineers.  This includes "NVH" which is noise/vibration/harshness and all of the other determinates that create the ride for the particular car.

 

I like the better fuel economy, longer life of the tire, and higher load range being at the higher pressure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Larry D,

Phillip,

and Larry S

 

 

Hi guys, and thanks for your comments.

Yes, I fold the top down whenever I get the chance - and it never shows wrinkles when it is back up !

 

I enjoy the sun on my wrinkled face , and the wind in what's left of my hair, and the "thumbs-up" from the young & Old who appreciate seeing "Fiorello")Mayor LaGuardia's Parade Car) on the move.

 

By the way, the top has NOT been replaced on my 1937 Roadmaster 80C (Phaeton).

It is the original top, and still has the internal headliner, which really is showing its age  a couple of spots.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...