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I'm Contemplating Buying a Special


Hudsy Wudsy

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Gentlemen, when I was a much younger man, my older brother used to own prewar Buicks. He had '38 & '39 Centuries, as well as a '37 Roadmaster. I used to love driving them because they were so smooth, powerful and luxurious. For years I've wanted to own a '37 or '38 Century or Roadmaster of my own, but the prices are usually out of reach for me. Of late I've been wondering what "settling" for a Special would be like. It never occurred to me before now to ask those who know these cars well what they think the actual "behind the wheel" feel of a Special is like compared to, say a Century or a Roadmaster. I don't want to put anyone through the bother of writing an essay for me, but, if you could, maybe just a few thoughts would be deeply appreciated.

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Hudsy, I too was looking for a Century or Roadmaster, but they were too costly. Bought a 40 Special. It has plenty of power and has no trouble cruising at highway speeds. Takes hills easy,better than my 87 Caddy. Really a nice smooth ride. Roger

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With the low rear end ratio, Specials have plenty of hill-climbing power. When \we lived in the Sierra Nevada foothills, our '38 Special was just the ticket, and very comfortable to drive. We bought it with radial tires equivalent to 7:00x16 bias plys, which lowered the engine speed a bit and provided great ride and handling. Special motors sound busy at 55 mph due to both the rear end ratio and the lack of insulation. If you plan to regularly go faster than that, you would do better to look for a car like Mark's with a different rear end at a sacrifice of power, or go for a Century. Roadmasters are nice cars, but they are BIG, and the '37 Roadmasters still had the '36-style body with lots of wood in the framing.

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I love my '38 Special, but low gearing limits the car to 50 or below.  Yes, it will go faster, but mine never felt comfortable.  (I know some will debate this)  Also, low final drive means your first to second gear shift will be at about 8 mph, to the annoyance of the typical driver behind you.  (no further comment required)  All is well when you get away from the busy roads and out to the country - rolling along at 35 - 45 is just sweet.

 

Go for it.  Lots of support.

 

Jeff

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I agree with Jeff. My special loves 50 mph. I took it to seventy just to see how it was, it was smooth but its to many rpm's. Its 2650 rpm at 50 mph with the stock tires. Its great around town at 40 mph. I'm not driving it on the freeway every day but when I do I just go about 50 or 52 and stay in the right lane, doesn't seem to be a problem. I don't think the ride is any different between the special and the other models. The Special is all metal with no wood  which is a plus. No matter which model you end up with I bet you'll like it. I never hear anybody say they don't like their Special.

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My 1930 Model A is a 45 mph cruiser, but my Buick Special is no problem at 60 or 65. Maybe not all day long but great on mixed roads and highways. If you are planning to travel and do aaca long tours than maybe you should get the 320 motor.

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Guys, I really appreciate your responses. They're clear and concise. I didn't realize, though I probably should have, that Specials had different rear end gears. One would expect that with the smaller motor, I guess. I have a '36 Dodge and I've been busy assessing rear end choices for it, as well. I know that the engine in my Dodge will take more RPMs than I'm comfortable with, but sound of it winding really gets on my nerves. I'll live on the prairie, Minnesota, to be precise (you know, as in Little House on the Prairie), so hills are a long, long way off. I'm sure that I could get by with the highway gears and the smaller engine. I think that it would mostly be a matter of being aware in certain situations. Would one of you know, off hand, what the ratios are for a Special, versus, say a Century?

Edited by Hudsy Wudsy (see edit history)
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I was just thinking about something that I brought up in my last post regarding my '36 Dodge. One of the benefits in going to a post war rear end on my Dodge is that the newer rear end assy will come with ten inch brakes, instead of the stock nine inch ones. Nicer still, is that the ten inch post war front backing plates will just bolt on to my '36 spindles, too. So, my question is, are the brakes on the Specials smaller and, if that's the case, have any of you found a way to go to larger ones without some major operation?

Edited by Hudsy Wudsy (see edit history)
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Each model has 12 inch inside diameter drums except for the 90 which has a 14 inch diameter, however the drums and shoes on the Special are narrower than the others. The big plus with Buicks compared to Fords in the 38 year is that Buicks were hydraulic while Fords were still mechanical. I forgot to mention as far as cruising speed goes that although the special turns 2650 rpm's at 50 mph its rated at 107hp at 3400rpm's, so I would assume that you could easily cruise all day at 3000 rpm's which is close to 56mph. The rear axle ratio in a special is 4.40-1 while only the model 60 has a 3.90-1 ratio. The model 80 has a 4.182-1 ratio and the 90 has a 4.555-1 ratio. The model 80 turns 2418 rpm's and the 90 turns 2545 rpm's at 50 mph. Only the model 60 turns a sweet 2323 rpm's at 50 mph. It was guaranteed to go 100mph by Buick back then.

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 You could order the 1937 Buick Special with the high speed (3.90) rear end as well, but doubt many started out that way.

 The 37 Special shoes are 1 3/4 wide while the Century's shoes were 2". Not sure but I think to switch all you need is the drums and shoes from a Century, but I'm not sure if it is worth the trouble of finding the drums and shoes.

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Another popular rear-end swap is early-mid 50's Buick. Ratio is 3.4-1, I think. Likely a lot easier to find than a '30's Century rear end, and keep in mind, the Century rear end isn't just a bolt-in. Drivetrain-wise, Centurys are basically short-wheelbase Roadmasters. Special brakes are more than sufficient if in good adjustment. The Specials with the semi-automatic tranny came with 3.6 gears, but good luck finding one of those.

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Gentlemen, I've been away for a few days, so I haven't had an opportunity to thank you all again for all of this info. I've copied it all into a file for referencing later. I'll bring up my Dodge one more time simply to say that while all '36 sedans came with 4:10 rear ends, the coupes (presumably being lighter) came with 3:90 gears. Is there any chance that is also true of pre war Buick coupes?

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That's interesting, but I've never heard of Buick choosing which rear end to install in the '37-'38's according to body style. Even if they did, the coupes sell for more more money, all things being equal, and you'd probably spend less putting a high-speed rear end in a sedan. Which brings up the topic of which body style looks the best. While all of the '37-'38's are handsome cars, I've always been partial to '37 coupes and convertibles, and think the '38 front end looks better on a sedan.

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I think that I'm going to go for a nice dignified 4dr sedan. One last question...I do see the occasional Buick engines or complete drivelines for sale on local Craigslists. Sadly, nothing is immune from rodding. Could one of you tell me a quick or simple way to identify the larger engine from the smaller -- one that I could explain to an indifferent seller. I ask this because frequently sellers don't have a clue what model they are about to rat rod, and don't care to put much work into finding out.

Edited by Hudsy Wudsy (see edit history)
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Great, that's simple. I thought that maybe it was just a matter of internal dimensions, like bore and stroke. It's always funny how one answer often  begets another question, but now I'll ask, just for the sake of knowledge, I suppose, are there any surprises when installing the larger engine into a Special? I'm guessing the Century has all of the same under hood dimensions, so perhaps not. Also, regarding a post war rear end swap, are we talking about the whole rear end (axle, differential and torque tube) in that swap?

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320 won't fit in a Special. The Century is basically a Special with 4" added to the engine compartment and a longer hood to cover it. Not sure what is entailed with a rear end swap. Maybe someone can chime in? A friend has a 38-46c with the post-war rear end. If no one comments, I'll ask him.

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Oh, I see. I guess that was a little naïve of me. I guess that I thought that the Centurys shared the same wheelbase as the Specials, but simply had the larger engine. I have lots of old Motors manuals and such. I guess that I need to bone up on some of the basics again.

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The larger engine does not EASILY fit into a special. The hoods were longer on the Century and Roadmaster, even the fenders are different. Anything is possible but it require a lot of modifications. The radiators are also bigger in the cars with the bigger engines. The rear end swap is also not just a bolt in affair. I think it would be easier to put a late model v8 into the Special than the bigger displacement straight eight as there would be no problem with the space available under the hood. In any case if you have your heart set ion a 320 cu in straight eight it would be easier to find a Century or Roadmaster for sale with the larger engine already in it.

Edited by LAS VEGAS DAVE (see edit history)
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  • 1 month later...

I run in the rear 7.50 16 ...thats increase my speed for 5 mph at same revs.

I give up to look arround

(since 10 years)for a century rearend, because its impossible to find one.

Only finding !! ... in your country, shipping was the next problem for me.

You cant scueeze a 320 into a small special/super compartment, not only the hood and fender are longer the frame also is in this area 4" longer than a special/super.

Parts for.the small one are better available then for the big ones...absolutley ahead are the so often broken 3-piece-exhaust-manifolds.

I have a pimped 263 (same lenght like the 248 )in my special coupe and it accelerate better than the bigger,havier 320 bigships ...

i ride also my original brakes, of course in perfect maintained condition on Autobahn and small fast countryroads...and believe,our traffic here is stressy with many stupid people they think, when.they see the front of my Car, its a slow green traktor of the sixties...

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I run in the rear 7.50 16 ...thats increase my speed for 5 mph at same revs.

I give up to look arround

(since 10 years)for a century rearend, because its impossible to find one.

Only finding !! ... in your country, shipping was the next problem for me.

You cant scueeze a 320 into a small special/super compartment, not only the hood and fender are longer the frame also is in this area 4" longer than a special/super.

Parts for.the small one are better available then for the big ones...absolutley ahead are the so often broken 3-piece-exhaust-manifolds.

I have a pimped 263 (same lenght like the 248 )in my special coupe and it accelerate better than the bigger,havier 320 bigships ...

i ride also my original brakes, of course in perfect maintained condition on Autobahn and small fast countryroads...and believe,our traffic here is stressy with many stupid people they think, when.they see the front of my Car, its a slow green traktor of the sixties...

Sounds like a great topic for another thread, "pimped" straight 8! Multiple carbs, hot cam, high compression head, it shouldn't be that tough getting to 141 HP (or more).

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