• Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by meteor

  1. What a great tour,fabulous destinations,great food, fun and friendly people. Thank you, Roger
  2. How about Hemmings oil?
  3. My 40 Buick owners manual says to use 80/90. I use gl-4 as opposed to gl-5. Gl-5 may not be good for soft metal such as brass.
  4. Rodney, Yes that is a 40 Special. I do get a little impatient at times but this forum is fantastic and I use it all the time. Tom, That worked out well,antenna back in service. I did pumps,drive motors and refer equipment for 35 yrs. Always tinkered with cars but I seem to have gotten that car collector disease and there is always something that needs to be repaired. Thanks to all, Roger
  5. Thanks Tom, That looks like it will work. Can it be done by myself or should I wait for a helper? My helper just went to work, poor girl. Barney, The antenna was working just fine before it fell. Hopefully it still does, if not I will be in touch. Roger
  6. Well,looking at it all, there is only one way to get to it. Have to take the inner wheel cover out. Thanks for all your input. Many responses for 1st. gen Rivs, not so much for newer ones. Roger
  7. My antenna has fallen into the wheel well. How do I get to it? It does not look very easy. Thanks for any advice. Roger
  8. Joe, You must be the smartest person in the world!
  9. Ben, Thanks for that website. Added it to my favorites list, very informative. That rear seal looks like a tough job. Think I will keep an eye on the leak and monitor it and if it gets worse I will try the repair. Meteor
  10. Ben, Who is Old Tank and where is his website? Thanks, Meteor
  11. Thanks Matt, I did not realize the 42 manual was more detailed. That is great I will check it out right away. The 40 manual does not have any info on the seal. I thought I would have to pull the trans. Thanks again for the help. Meteor
  12. Thanks 39 Buick, That's a great site. I have the service and repair manual for my 1940 Buick. I was hoping to get a response from someone who has replaced the seal so I could get some advice and issues that may turn up.
  13. What is the best way to replace the rear main seal on a 1940 special 248? The repair manual is not giving me much information. Thanks, Meteor
  14. I've owned an MGTD for 15 yrs. Fuel pump and voltage regulator are the only items I've had to replace. I would change the condenser. Had that same problem with my 40 Buick.
  15. There is a 30amp circuit breaker in the fuse panel,near the top center on my 82. Mine had stopped working one time and the connector in the driver side armrest had come loose.
  16. I've used American Collectors for the past 15 yrs. Good rates and paid the one claim I had with no hassle.
  17. I have a 1982 Riviera convertible, door panels are probably the same. You are in for a fun time. There are some odd clips holding the panel in. You need the Fisher Body service manual, it can be found on the net pretty easily. My door panels were taken off by the previous owner. Most of the clips are broken and the panels are somewhat loose when you close the doors. It is a very difficult job if you don't do this regularly. Roger
  18. Well I think I have the problem solved. I had the alternator rebuilt with a self-exciting regulator and now it is a one wire system. I know the purists will not be happy, but this is the best solution for me. Thanks to all, Roger
  19. Ok Joe, You are right. I am getting 14v back to the exciter. Should I put a resistor in to bring it down to 6v? Roger
  20. Joe, Yes I connected it to the sender with a 2 spade connector. I leave detailed notes on everything for the next owner. I will probably get under that dash and repair it at a later date. You and Larry are really knowledgeable and are very helpful. Roger
  21. Joe,sorry but you are wrong about the ops. It works exactly like the gen light. It grounds to the block and completes the circuit for the dash warning light and when it gets pressure is 12 volt. So it works the same as the gen light. I know getting under the dash and tracing the wires would be better, but as I said I did not want to do that right now. Thanks again for your help and don't be angry! Roger
  22. Ok guys, thanks for all your help. Ended up using the oil pressure switch and connecting to the brown wire on the alternator. Seems to work fine. Sure did not want to get under that dash again. Roger
  23. Larry, You are right in repairing all the wiring mess. I did do most of what you said. I took out an alarm system, 3 switches and got most things working. Had trouble with the dash lights and I guess I missed the gen light too. Joe thanks for the diagram. I do not want to tackle that under dash again. I think I can bypass that exciter wire by connecting it to a switched lead. I won't have the charge light, but I have a volt gauge. Hope this works. Thanks,Roger
  24. misterc9 the Riviera is a 1982 convertible. thanks.
  25. I am having a terrible time getting my alternator to charge. Had it tested a couple of times, all is good. The three wire connections, 2 red and 1 brown. I have 12 volts on the reds, the brown has nothing. Reading on the internet it says that the internal regulator has to be momentarily exited to start to charge. I think the brown wire goes under the dash and i think that is where the trouble lies. Hope there is a solution other then under dash it is a real mess, brackets missing, extra wires,etc. The dash lights don't work and some of the warning lights also. Thanks,Roger