Daves1940Buick56S Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 All:I am starting the engine teardown this week. I decided to first tackle the 2 bolts fastening the exhaust valve body to the flange and exhaust pipe. Of course, they are frozen. Lots of PB Blaster later, I was able to get the bolts themselves to turn, but the nuts are stuck fast to the bolts. I have a nut splitter but not enough clearance to the valve body to be useful. And there is little clearance to work and difficult to get any leverage. I could try some heat, but any other suggestions? Any way of getting more leverage? Or should I just cut the exhaust pipe below the valve body and work it once out of the car?Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
39BuickEight Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 More leverage might break it. We soaked bolts in WD-40 overnight and it worked on every nut, bolt, and screw in the whole car but 3-4. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pont35cpe Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I use a 50-50 mix of ATF and Acetone or lacquer thinner... Works great on freeing up old rusty frozen nuts/bolts.. Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967 - 1997 Riviera Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 I vagely recall that this was posted somewhere om these boards a while ago. I don't know who to attribute it to, but you may find it useful:"Machinist's Workshop" published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out "torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.Average torque load to loosen nut:No Oil used ........................516 foot poundsWD-40 ..................... ........238 foot poundsPB Blaster .........................214 foot poundsLiquid Wrench ......................127 foot poundsKano Kroil .........................106 foot poundsATF/Acetone mix...................... 53 foot poundsThe ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.Our local machinist group mixed up a batch, and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that Liquid Wrench is almost as good as Kroil for 20% of the price.ATF/Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF = Any type of Automatic Transmission FluidThis version of the story was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters. </SPAN>" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted April 21, 2014 Share Posted April 21, 2014 So did the test suggest the length of time the bolt/bolts should be SOAKED?Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1967 - 1997 Riviera Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 "So did the test suggest the length of time the bolt/bolts should be SOAKED?"No, it did not. I know that, in some cases, Kroil works relatively quickly, depending upon the severity of the rust cementation. Only experience with using the ATF-Acetone mixture will tell. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Dave,Since you will replace these upon reassembly anyway, get the gas wrench out an torch off the nuts !!!!Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted April 23, 2014 Author Share Posted April 23, 2014 Mike:Yeah, one way or another they are coming off. I have a good nut splitter on order, should be here Thurs. If that fails, either cut them off or cut the pipe.Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erndog Posted April 27, 2014 Share Posted April 27, 2014 I was never a fan of Liquid Wrench, but tearing down my 1930 Buick convinced me otherwise. After breaking many bolts using WD-40, I sprayed them down with Liquid Wrench and let them soak for 24 hours+. They came off finger tight. It has never failed me and I rarely use WD-40 now. Although, their new lubricant in the yellow can is the bomb for lubricating! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted May 5, 2014 Author Share Posted May 5, 2014 Just to close out this thread. I ended up getting them both off without resort to nuclear weapons. Basically I got on them with a wrench on the nuts while braced against the engine block and turning from above with a 9/16 6-sided socket and a long breaker bar. One of them was screaming all the way, you can see which one from the photo.Cheers, Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted May 13, 2014 Share Posted May 13, 2014 What went wrong? Tried the ATF fluid and Acetone and they do not mix. Stired them and shortly they separate into different layers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Just to close out this thread. I ended up getting them both off without resort to nuclear weapons. Basically I got on them with a wrench on the nuts while braced against the engine block and turning from above with a 9/16 6-sided socket and a long breaker bar. One of them was screaming all the way, you can see which one from the photo.Cheers, Dave[ATTACH=CONFIG]246398[/ATTACH]Looks like a lot of expansion and contraction has been going on there for a lot of years. Your situation is not uncommon with manifold bolts. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 What went wrong? Tried the ATF fluid and Acetone and they do not mix. Stired them and shortly they separate into different layers. I have not tried this all that much my self Barney. So it is like Oil and water. So which is lighter? The acetone? or the ATF? this may well be the secret. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FLYER15015 Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Just to close out this thread. I ended up getting them both off without resort to nuclear weapons. Basically I got on them with a wrench on the nuts while braced against the engine block and turning from above with a 9/16 6-sided socket and a long breaker bar. One of them was screaming all the way, you can see which one from the photo.Cheers, Dave[ATTACH=CONFIG]246398[/ATTACH]Just a note, replace with stainless nuts and bolts............Mike in Colorado Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daves1940Buick56S Posted May 14, 2014 Author Share Posted May 14, 2014 Ohhhh yeahhhhhh.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 S.S. Caterpillar has done that for quite some time on manifold bolts. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted May 14, 2014 Share Posted May 14, 2014 Today tried mixing ATF and Lacquer thinner and it did not mix well but did not complete separate like the Acetone. I rebuilt Reatta headlight motors ... there are 3 blind screws (8-32 hex head) that hold a plate on the side and it is very common for one or more to be frozen.I have tried many different suggestion to solve the problem but have yet to find something that actually works. I was hoping the ATF/Acetone was the answer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kaycee Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 A lot of forum members and scientific testing has shown that acetone and trans. fluid is the best penetating oil. Which is the best? kaycee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 My thought is maybe the oil keeps the acetone/ lacquer thinner from evaporating so fast and gives it time to work. Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 I will give it another shot today.....think I have some type F ATF will see if that acts any differently when mixed with the acetone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Grant Magrath Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 I use, when hear won't be an issue, a butane torch to free up stuck nuts and bolts.CheersGrant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted May 15, 2014 Share Posted May 15, 2014 Tried type F ATF today with the Acetone and it was a little stubborn to blend but did much better than the ATF for GM cars. Let it set most of the day and it did not separate.Now I just need some stuck screws to give it a try. Grant mentioned a torch..... I have had good luck with candle wax (paraffin) heat the part, apply the solid stick of candle wax and it will melt, usually flows nicely into threads.I usually reheat to get more flow. Of course this is a problem if the screw is around flammable material. This also works nicely when you are assembling parts. After cleaning the bolts, heat them and apply candle wax (it melts at low temp) Then I usually hit them again with the torch quickly for a nice final finish and wipe off any excess. This make old bolts look pretty good and they now have a wax coating for protection and lube when screwing them in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 For those types of rusty/frozen nuts & bolts I prefer the blue flame wrench. Oxy/Acetylene. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Shaw Posted May 25, 2014 Share Posted May 25, 2014 Acetone works as a dilute carrier for the ATF that does the lubrication. Just shake to mix it and apply within a reasonable time. Yes, it will eventually separate; you just need to shake it again before use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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