New Member

[Guest JT 39]

Hello, fellow Pre-War Buick enthusiasts!

My name is Jim, and I am the proud new owner of a `39 Special Sedan.

The good news is that my new car appears to be in pretty good condition. The bad news is that I bought it at auction, and I know very little about its provenance.

To make matters worse, I just moved to Las Vegas, and don't know any car guys here. Anyone have any recommendations for a good mechanic in southern Nevada? I would even be willing to take it to SoCal if need be to find a competent partner to help me repair and maintain my new baby.

So far, the list of problems I've identified includes the following:

Temperature gauge inop

Speedometer and odometer inop.

Brake lights inop

Fender marker lamps inop.

Windshield wipers inop.

I've managed to correct a few minor issues (replaced incorrect bulbs in turn signals to get them working properly, re-seated rear tail light assembly to get tail lights on, re-attached left rear interior door handle), but I am painfully aware of how little I know about cars in general, and pre-War cars in particular. Have enjoyed perusing many of the threads here, and am grateful to the user group for sharing your knowledge and enthusiasm.

[jscheib]

Welcome Jim, I am sure you will find quite some response as there are a number of '39 owners on the forum. Nice looking car. John

[FLYER15015]

Welcome aboard Jim.

You will want to contact "Grant" in NZ, and "Danny" in Aus.

They are hungry for more '39 team members.

If you post all the stats on your firewall plaque, it will help the forum guys respond to your questions.

Mike in Colorado

[Terry Stock]

It could be useful to contact your local Buick Club chapter in Las Vegas. They should know who does what well. BCA - Regions

[Terry Stock]

PS. Car looks real nice.

[Mark Shaw]

Welcome Jim, and enjoy the ride...

Join the Prewar Division for free with your BCA #...

Here are some links that may help you find parts and contacts...

http://www.buickclub.org/</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.buickclub.org/prewar/BCA_PWD_index.htm</SPAN></SPAN>

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http://forum.eastwood.com/upload/forumdisplay.php?2-Ask-Eastwood&daysprune</SPAN>=</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.lucasclassictires.com/</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.olsonsgaskets.com/</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.prewarbuick.com/links.php</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.restorationstuff.com/</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.special-interest-autos.com/</SPAN></SPAN>

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http://www.vintageandclassicreproductions.com/buick.htm</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.riwire.com/</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.buickheritagealliance.org/</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.zenithfuelsystems.com/prod_carburetor.htm</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.haartz.com/en/consumer_info/Restore_Guide/intro.asp</SPAN></SPAN>

http://old-carburetors.com/1927-Dykes.htm</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.classicautoshocks.com/</SPAN></SPAN>

http://www.lov2xlr8.no/broch1.html</SPAN></SPAN>

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/1937and1938Buicks/</SPAN>

http://www.1937and1938buicks.com/</SPAN>

Edited August 22, 2013 by Mark Shaw (see edit history)

[Dwight Romberger]

Welcome Jim!

[Guest JT 39]

Thanks all for the warm response!

Here's the data plate info:

Mod: 41

Style No: 39-4419

Body No: 22776

Trim No: 79

Paint No: 530

VIN: 33537895

Engine: 8 cyl (haven't found ID plate yet... I'll get to it)

Oh, and I did join the BCA; mem # is 47072. Will update my profile.

Good advice about reaching out to the local forums for info. I figured this was the best place to start, since a Reatta specialist might not be familiar with some of the... peculiarities of a more seasoned Buick. I had a bad experience letting my old MG get serviced by an "import expert" who couldn't admit when he didn't know what he was doing... but felt comfortable trying to figure it out at my expense.

[Guest JT 39]

I see in referring to the BCA Judging guide that the Paint code 530 means that my car is supposed to be Carlsbad Black...

That would explain why the silver/gray paint-job looks a little inconsistent. Too bad it's not original -- I like the color.

Also, the gaping hole in the middle of the dashboard tells me there used to be a radio present; I guess I'll be needing tips on tracking down one of those. Or else suggestions about blanking plates or other alternatives?

My odometer reads 32794 miles, but since I don't know when it stopped working, I have no way of knowing how accurate that is.

[Guest BigDogDaddy]

Hi Jim, welcome to the club and welcome to the forum. I like the color of your too. If you don't already have them, you can find the Owner's manual and Shop manual on Ebay. They list both original and reproduction manuals. You can also find the radio on Ebay. I know Hershey Pa. is a long distance from you, but well worth the trip if you can make it to the fall show there this October. You can find most anything that you need for your car there as well as the ability to see other 39 Buicks. Also, if you think that you might want to tackle some of the repairs yourself this forum is a great place to ask for guidance. Many of the members here have worked on their own cars and can help you figure it out.

Phil

[FLYER15015]

Jim,

A black car in Las Vegas ? Even in the winter months I remember it being awfull hot there.

Radio's can be had, and a lot of guys have replaced them with the new stuff that looks old.

Per your list above, most of your issues are electrical, and can be chased dow pretty easily.

As Jolly John recommended to me, please get a mechanic's hand book AND a parts book. You will have hours of reading ahead of you, and you will be able to site part numbers for all the things that are not made anymore. But most are available with some searching.

Both are available as reprints and not very expensive. Don't get CD's. Get hard copies you can lay on the fender, 'cause you will.....

Mike in Colorado

[Guest JT 39]

I agree with Mike that Vegas is hot enough without me making the problem worse by reverting to the factory paint job. Besides which, it was the current color that made me fall in love with the car in the catalog.

Happily, the paperwork that came with the car included:

A 1939 Owner's manual

A 1938 Shop Manual

A "Crank'En Hope" reproduction 1939 Buick 8 shop manual to be used in conjunction with the `38 shop manual

A "Harnesses Unlimited" electrical harness instruction, data sheet, and schematic

A "Hampton Coach" reproduction upholstery installation sheet

The manuals have already come in handy for identifying when the wrong bulb had been shoved into a socket because "it fit." The fact that there are multiple instances of this makes me worry about the care and attention to detail that the previous owner(s) took with regards to OTHER areas of the car, areas that are not as easy to identify and quick to remedy. Is the oil the right grade? Maybe he used Crisco. Who knows? The absence of knowledge about what was done to this car, when, and by whom is rather irksome. Owing to that uncertainty, I'm not sure I would buy another car at auction.

I am eager to learn more about how to repair and maintain my car, and am a decent study, but I would like to find someone experienced who can walk me through the steps (in person). My philosophy of vehicular maintenance is adapted from physicians' Hippocratic oath: "First, do no harm."

Sadly, I am the only one in my family who is "mechanically inclined," so I never had an opportunity to learn at Dad's knee how to change a head gasket, bleed a brake system, etc. I seek a Tenzing Norgay who can assist my ascent of the mountain of mechanical knowledge. I am willing to volunteer my labor to assist others with their projects in exchange for the experience of learning how to do things right. Alternatively, I am willing and able to pay a skilled mechanic to do the work that is beyond my expertise.

[Daves1940Buick56S]

Welcome Jim! There are a great bunch of people on this forum. They say the people is what makes car collecting a great hobby (or obsession?) and it's absolutely true. The help I have received here in the past year has saved me untold time and money going down rabbit holes. And they keep my spirits up when I get discouraged. Take a bow guys!

Cheers, Dave

[1939_Buick]

Welcome to the forum and '39 Buicks

Welcome aboard Jim.

You will want to contact "Grant" in NZ, and "Danny" in Aus.

They are hungry for more '39 team members.

Indeed we are. Click on the blue link in my signature

Many electrical problems can be due to poor earthing and/or poor connections. Take off electrical connections and clean them

Engine number is on a machined flat on top of the block, just above the distrubuter. Your engine could be a '47 or later by the shape of the side oil breather

.

Edited August 22, 2013 by 1939_buick (see edit history)

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Hi Jim!

Nice choice of car! We've had to fix most things on our coupe, so if there's any help I can offer.......

Between us, we know where to find things, and how to make stuff, so you should be all good!

BTW, my Stingray comes from the Vegas area. And yes, there are some great guys on this forum!

Cheers

Grant

[Guest JT 39]

Ok, new issue:

the rubber weatherstriping has come off the bottom of the right rear door, and is in the process of coming off the front passenger door.

The manual says to use cement F.S.-1039, which I haven't been able to locate.

Steele Rubber advertises 3 different weatherstrip adhesives:

3M Weatherstrip Adhesvie - Black (part # 96-8011-96)

Super Weatherstrip Adhesive - Black (part # 96-8008-96)

Super Weatherstrip Adhesive - Yellow (pat # 96-8001-96)

Steele also sells 3M General Purpose Cleaner (part # 96-8987-96) 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner - Spray

...which I would presumably use to clean the affected surfaces in order to ensure maximum adhesion.

Suggestions on how best to reattach these pieces of weatherstripping? Best practices? Technique? Common errors?

All input gratefully received.

Thanks in advance,

JT

[Guest JT 39]

BTW, in case anyone wonders, the rubber is not dry-rotted and seems in perfect condition. I think this is just a matter of dried-out cement giving up the ghost. Looking for best practices for putting it back on.

[Anzac Buick64]

Hi JT

Welcome and a great car. Looks good. F.S stands for Fisher Sealant and was the name that Fisher Body Works gave to the glues and sealants that they developed to stick stuff onto the bodies that they made and sold to Buick You will not buy it now and you will not need it. Modern adhesives( and oils and fuels) are infinitely better than any used pre-war due to advances in chemistry and manufacturing. Take a small sample of the old strip and try some of the new adhesives on it. Just buy a small amount of the adhesive first as a test. The main thing is to follow the instructions on the glue as the instructions are designed to make the glue work they way it was intended. Also both surfaces should be clean and grease free. I have found methylated spirits as the best cleaner for this purpose.

Cheers

Andrew

PS we like photos in the 39 team

[danhar1960]

G'day JT and welcome aboard.

Always good to see another fellow '39 show up here on the board.

Your beasty looks a beaut.

You are hereby bestowed with the illustrious honour of being a " '39 Buick Team Member ". Welcome to the gang.

Can't help you much with glass as I've not had to do it yet.

As for the engine, It's a bit of a pain but taking the sump pan off and having a good look around is always a good thing to do if the engine is completely unknown.

These old girls accumulated a lot of sludge over the years and I've seen the oil pump completely cover in crud. If there is a lot of crap down there, detergent oil could cause all sorts of problems. Also check that you have a good supply of oil at the tappets. There is a pesky little screen in the system that is notorious for blocking up. It's been covered many times here.

Look over Mike's (FLYER15015s) recent posts about his speedo, you might have the same problem, or a broken inner cable.

Temperature capillary tubes an notorious for breaking but are easily repaired.

I have the AC manuals for these.

If you'd like a copy just shoot me your email address by PM and I'll email them to you. (PDFs) (or anyone else as well)

Looking forward to hearing more about your beast.

Danny

[jvelde]

Jim, welcome to the party - we have a great time here and there are so many on the forum with knowledge to share. Hope you have as much fun getting to know your "new" car as I have mine over the past 3 years. If it weren't for these guys and posts on the forum, I would not have even attempted some of the things I have been able to do myself. Hope to see you on here often and look forward to seeing more photos as you go along!

[smithbrother]

WOW, YOU all did a great job in making this new fellow feel WELCOME.

Great job you all,

Dale in Indy

Mark, that was so nice of you to provide ALL those links.

[Guest JT 39]

F.S stands for Fisher Sealant and was the name that Fisher Body Works gave to the glues and sealants that they developed to stick stuff onto the bodies that they made and sold to Buick You will not buy it now and you will not need it. Modern adhesives( and oils and fuels) are infinitely better than any used pre-war due to advances in chemistry and manufacturing. Take a small sample of the old strip and try some of the new adhesives on it. Just buy a small amount of the adhesive first as a test. The main thing is to follow the instructions on the glue as the instructions are designed to make the glue work they way it was intended. Also both surfaces should be clean and grease free. I have found methylated spirits as the best cleaner for this purpose.

Perfect. Thank you for the guidance.

I will give that a try, and report back with my results. Gonna be a couple of weeks - am leaving on a work trip tonight.

[Guest JT 39]

Here are some more pictures, since I know those are well-liked.

These are the photos that were on the auction website where I bought the car, so I'm afraid I don't have any information about where or when they were taken, or any of the background.

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Mate, when using the weatherstrip adhesive, put a thin layer on the rubber, and where it goes on the car, and let it set for a bit, then apply some more on the rubber, and stick it on. Use tape to keep things in place. Did this for my Stingray, and it worked great.

Cheers

Grant

[Guest JT 39]

Mate, when using the weatherstrip adhesive, put a thin layer on the rubber, and where it goes on the car, and let it set for a bit, then apply some more on the rubber, and stick it on. Use tape to keep things in place. Did this for my Stingray, and it worked great.

Cheers

Grant

Excellent. Is masking tape appropriate? If not, what sort do you recommend?

Thanks again!

[critterpainter]

If you need parts you might try Bobs Automobilia in Calif. They specialize in Buick parts for that era 805 434-2963

[FLYER15015]

jim,

When I replaced all the rubber on my '40, I used the 3M. Had to scrub all the door sills with MEK and a screwdiver to get the old rubber and stickum off. Since mine is black, I taped the edges and hit them with Krylon. Let it dry for a day or so and applied a SMALL bead of 3M to the door and stuck the rubber back on. In 3 years it is still good.

Be carefull with real masking tape as it will sometimes lift the paint. The blue painters tape is not so agressive and worked fine for me.

Mike in Colorado

[smithbrother]

You should ALWAYS pull making tape off by NOT LIFTING THE TAPE, but pulling it BACK OVER ITSELF. Doing such will 99% of the time assure that you WON'T lift any paint.

A good automotive paint store can sell you a WIPING fluid that will take wax, etc off, and NOT affect the paint. It also dries at once.

Dale in Indy

[Guest Grant Magrath]

Masking tape will be fine. AS above, just take care when removing. Actually, masking tape when applying the adhesive makes for a cleaner job as well. Mask off, apply adhesive, remove tape. Nice and neat!

Cheers

Grant

[Guest outlaw car man]

I ONLY use the ( lime-greenish ) automotive tape. Not masking tape or the blue painters tape. Nice car, great color, had a 34 Ford about the same color. The car is so SMALL tho ? Haaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Fun watching your progress, can't help much on the 39 but a lot of good guys here- OCM

[FLYER15015]

Sandy,

Do I remember you using green tape when you did your hubcaps ?

They turned out fine........

Mike in Youknowwhere

[Guest outlaw car man]

No, that was blue painter's tape that was a special tape that was like stretchable to go around corners ( circles) for painting. Guilty as charged, I almost ALWAYS use green automotive tape as it doesn't stick and pull paint. In my defense I was using the Edge Lock super sharp tape and the pin stripe size stretchable of the same. This application was over straight chrome. Filed in the works for me file.

[smithbrother]

ALMOST, and ALWAYS have different meanings, LOL.

Have a good weekend,

Dale in Indy

[Guest outlaw car man]

Yes, it means not quite all the time ! Haaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa. Sandy

[smithbrother]

Or, NOT QUITE ALWAYS. hehehe.

Dale in Indy

[FLYER15015]

Now Boys................

Would "sometimes" do ??????

You Know Who