NC-car-guy Posted March 21, 2014 Author Share Posted March 21, 2014 Even though it isn't pretty yet, I sure did have a s*** eatin' grin on my face cruisin down the road! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted March 21, 2014 Share Posted March 21, 2014 Nice! Cruise time just around the next corner,Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Went out again, she ran a little bit hot. I turned on the heat and she went normal again..... I'm thinking I either don't have enough water in the system, or the thermostat is hanging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Fully over heated today, burst a water line going back to the transmission. Anyone got a good idea where to get a line that long? Also what temp thermostat and what pressure radiatorcapare appropriate?Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Also noticed the front brakes get screaming hot and the back don't......just adjustment or? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Model56s Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Matt,The coolant line to the Dynaflow heat exchanger on the '49 is just 5/8" heater hose. What's on the 55?Also, someone on the forums mentioned 7# radiator cap rating...can't verify.Geoff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 ,yes it is just five eighths heater hose but I cannot seem to find a piece long enoughthe cap I have now I cannot tell what Pound rating it is. , really worried about why it's running so hot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 Most auto parts stores have the hose on 50 foot rolls and can cut it to length. I replaced all of the hoses on my 54 Special. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 This might help. Someone else posted it on the forum a while back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 Awesome thanks! Yea AutoZone had it...doh! Also bought a 7lb cap and a 182 F thermostat. Hope this cools her down. Now to the brakes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Matt, I did not check back all the way, but if you have not pulled and rodded or replaced the radiator, you are pi##ing against the wind r:e: the overheating. Best bet is a new core. A good radiator shop can fix you right up' Love the progress. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 This might help. Someone else posted it on the forum a while back.[ATTACH=CONFIG]239925[/ATTACH]There is a second page for other models that has the footnote denoted by 't' for the oil cooler hose which is 74" for a 54 and 78" for 55. See my website for a quick and easy way to change out the hoses and a complete chart.I drill a 1/8 hole in the flange of the thermostat to help purge air from the system, which if left in will result in some of the puking you described. Hopefully new parts and a clean radiator will solve the problem, otherwise consider a blown head gasket or cracked head letting combustion gases in the cooling system.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 (edited) That diagram is great, found the trans line was plumbed to the water neck and the heater line was on the pump, not sure how much difference it makes, but we'll see. The old thermostat was a 195 so down 13 degrees there. Willie, I didn't think about air in the system, I may premix some coolant/water and add directly to the block, under the thermostat before cranking her up. Edited March 24, 2014 by wndsofchng06 misspelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 27, 2014 Author Share Posted March 27, 2014 I got the rear brakes adjusted and the hood latch installed. also figured out why the park lock wasn't working on the transmission. Turns out it was just the tab on the end of the column was bent! Horray for good news. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 29, 2014 Author Share Posted March 29, 2014 (edited) Now I remember why I got out of old cars! She's still over heating, so radiator work..... She stopped charging, and now that I made it home she's stuck.... Some thing happened..... All four wheels are smoking, the brake pedal is solid, you can't push it at all, and the car won't move! UGH. :mad: Edited March 30, 2014 by wndsofchng06 Bad wording (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Ah yes. Most of us have been there... Did you replace the flex lines on the brake system? If not I'd go there first. Interior deterioration can cause the fluid to "puddle" at the wheel cylinders and with heat expansion the brakes will drag more. Did the battery die without the gen charging?Have you installed any type of coolant filter at the return line on the radiator? Even a layer of panty hose over the inlet to the radiator will catch the big debris that clogs a radiator fast. If you have the radiator worked on make sure to put some sort of filter in. And always remember to clean it often. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 Thanks for the advice John! No battery didn't die, she just stayed on discharge with no accessories on. I'm going to see about getting the radiator rodded. I'm also going to replace ALL the brake lines... Does anyone carry a pre bent brake line set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 Mathew,If all 4 wheels are locked and pedal is hard, it sounds like you don't have slack on your master cylinder input. If the master cylinder plunger cannot return all the way to uncover the compensation port, fluid cannot return to the MC. Be sure there is slack or some slight travel before the plunger contacts and pushes the MC piston. If you have power brakes with booster, be sure that the input on booster is returning and leaving slack at the linkage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackofalltrades70 Posted March 30, 2014 Share Posted March 30, 2014 MattDon't give up now. You are really close to having a summer full of cruising! Tackle things one at a time. Get the radiator out first and let someone else be fixing it while you work out the brakes and charging issues.Keep your head held high.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 30, 2014 Author Share Posted March 30, 2014 MattDon't give up now. You are really close to having a summer full of cruising! Tackle things one at a time. Get the radiator out first and let someone else be fixing it while you work out the brakes and charging issues.Keep your head held high.Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThanks buddy! Busy weekend coming. Charlotte auto fair, diabetes 5k, and going to Atlanta to pick up another 55 (titled and runs) but I'm buying as a parts car! I'll drop the radiator off Tuesday to be rodded. Thanks for the encouragement! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric W Posted March 31, 2014 Share Posted March 31, 2014 If you do end up doing the steel part of the brake lines, Inline Tube has them. www.inlinetube.com They list the '55 122" wheelbase set at $155, or $179 for stainless. Looks like it would be part no. BRB5501, but check with them.I just did the brake hoses on the '51 - about $75 for the 3 hoses + hose retainer clips at NAPA.Good luck on the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted March 31, 2014 Author Share Posted March 31, 2014 If you do end up doing the steel part of the brake lines, Inline Tube has them. www.inlinetube.com They list the '55 122" wheelbase set at $155, or $179 for stainless. Looks like it would be part no. BRB5501, but check with them.I just did the brake hoses on the '51 - about $75 for the 3 hoses + hose retainer clips at NAPA.Good luck on the radiator.Thanks Eric! That's a good savings over Kanter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 6, 2014 Author Share Posted April 6, 2014 Rescued this from the crusher!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted April 7, 2014 Share Posted April 7, 2014 What, no battery???? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 7, 2014 Author Share Posted April 7, 2014 Lmao! I Couldn't see it crushed, I can always use some spare parts! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 (edited) so before I buy new brake lines..... I think I'm going to add this...https://scarebird.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=132If I do the disc brakes on the front too, any opinions on what proportioning valve to use??I have emailed scarebird to ask for further details. I will post any info that they send.... Edited April 9, 2014 by wndsofchng06 additional details (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted April 9, 2014 Author Share Posted April 9, 2014 Ok... Here's the skinny on the brakes...my email to them with answers inlineHello,I am considering ordering the master cylinder found here:https://scarebird.com/index.<wbr>php?route=product/product&<wbr>path=59&product_id=132The description leaves a lot to be desired. Is this a bolt on application? Does it come with the plugs for the top, tubing, and remote fill reservoir? Yes, it is a bolt on application. No we do not supply the other parts as everyone seems to want something else.I would also consider the disc brake conversion kit:https://scarebird.com/index.<wbr>php?route=product/product&<wbr>path=59&product_id=57Does this include a proportioning valve or have you recommended one?Our kits do not have a proportioning valve, though we do supply information in the instructions. for the rear disc brake conversion kit:https://scarebird.com/index.<wbr>php?route=product/product&<wbr>path=59&product_id=64I assume this would work on a 1955 Buick Special? What caliper and discs is it meant to work with?Yes, the rear kit ELE will work on your car.One last question, since you do not supply the remote reservoir kits, is there some standard one should know about your master cylinder to shop for those parts?they are 1/4" inlet, so any brake fluid rated reservoir should work.[h=1]Parts Lists[/h]Discs: Front Buick 1965-70 (5 on 5” bolt center – Riviera, LeSabre, Electra)*Rear 1976 Ford T-Bird (NAPA# 85646, 47 Wagner# BD60445,46)These rotors are directional.Your kit will use the following calipers and pads: Front are astrovan awd calipers and pads as shown on website.Rear are1979-85 Cadillac Eldorado rear calipers (NAPA# SE4690, SE 4689) <wbr> <wbr> (Wagner# CR107094, CR107095) Thank you!Matthew Herman1955 Buick Special Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 2, 2014 Author Share Posted May 2, 2014 well due to some unforeseen circumstances, the brakes have been put on hold... the fuel pump has also breathed its last breath, so I think I'll be going electric completely and not just for booster. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted May 21, 2014 Author Share Posted May 21, 2014 Got the electric fuel pump on and boy does it help! The car has never started so easy! On a side note, I will be moving to Raleigh soon. Taking a job up that way and hopefully getting more land and a bigger garage!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC-car-guy Posted June 20, 2014 Author Share Posted June 20, 2014 Title came today!!!! YAY!! 2 months after the DMV inspection! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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