Earl B. Posted May 11, 2013 Author Share Posted May 11, 2013 Ben, I looked to see which one was used in 1955. From what I found out, this one came out in 1949 and was used through 1958. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted May 14, 2013 Author Share Posted May 14, 2013 Well, I went to check on baby today and the mechanic has been busy with other things. He has had a chance to take off the gas tank and check it out and the report is.....clean as a pin, so he just put it back on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted May 18, 2013 Author Share Posted May 18, 2013 I need some help. How many quarts of oil does it take with a filter change. I'm thinking 6 from what I can find, but, then I found another place and it looked like 5. I'm betting on 6...am I right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Yep Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted May 18, 2013 Share Posted May 18, 2013 Just put 5 in, and check, run a few minutes and check again. When in doubt.Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Will these do sir? They both have a small dent or two and could use some massaging. If you want them I can send them to Smartin for his magic touch, save some postage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 and by the way, considering the hard time I gave you about never being able to find such a rare car as this and the fact that a very good friend from Texas... Sequin, Texas gave me a set in similar condition but for a small series and to pass the karma along, the only cost will be shipping, either to you or Smartin. Sort of a car warming gift you might say. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dandy Dave Posted May 24, 2013 Share Posted May 24, 2013 Mr. Earl. You da man! :cool: Dandy Dave! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted May 24, 2013 Author Share Posted May 24, 2013 Mr.Earl, I posted last night, and when I hit the reply button, it went to a can't find database page or something and all was lost, and could not reopen the site at all... Is someone asleep at the control panel? haha... I do appreciate the gift as I'm sure the car will! Progoofoff gave me a pair of NOS door edge guards. When I get the old girl all painted up, she'll shine like a new penny.. I think for now, I'll have you send them to me and when I do get it painted, send everythng to SMartin. I sent you a pm with my address. As far as the Karma, I do hope you get some, because I feel like I certainly have, and it's been such a week, I need some.. driver died, took it to a mechanic 35 miles away, left all my keys, got home, had to break in the house, have a new back door and lock on the way.. It's rained every day, so no garage work going on. The computer got a virus and the repairman was kind enough to fix it while I waited... 40 miles the other way to get that fixed and over $109 to get that going again.... I felt like my luck had turned around a little, the title came for the car, more below on that, and when I was in Fayetteville, I found 6 cents on the sidewalk. Now I can start the fund for getting the Buick painted!The title-- I hadn't written about this before because there was not much anyone could do. It was more of a wait and see thing.For anyone in a title state, you know the importance of this piece of paper. The last owner said he'd had the car for four years, but he'd never titled it to himself. I saw the old title. We went to Dobson, NC to get the paperwork done. The lady there said it couldn't be assigned to me. The title had to come back to the seller, and then to me. I found out later she was wrong, a reassignment could have been done. ( A little more paperwork and me paying my part of the fees.) Well, the state moves slowly, and it took about 3 weeks for it to go to the seller, and he sent it to me..unsigned.... It was useless as far as transferring to me. I had to send it back to him to get it signed and notarized. It finally came back to me after another couple of weeks, but is signed and notarized. When I called, it was..It's in the mail... It was mailed the 21st, came the 23rd. One of the clearest postmarks I've ever seen. It's taken over 7 weeks to get the title in my hands. Well, that's the end of that story, and the moral of it is.. Watch out for those little old ladies in the license plate agency. hahaha..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Sounds like a plan B. I'll get them in the mail next week. Glad to hear you got the title straightened out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted May 30, 2013 Author Share Posted May 30, 2013 Does anyone have the pieces and parts that hold the hood insulation in place. Mine is missing and I'd like to get the parts if anyone has a spare 'set' you'd be willing to sell..thanks!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted May 31, 2013 Author Share Posted May 31, 2013 Does anyone have a spare wheel they'd sell? One of mine has a bad bend in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 2, 2013 Author Share Posted June 2, 2013 Well, the old girl is finally home... I brought her home Friday afternoon. The last problems to be solved were the flasher(thank you Mike for that tidbit) and the grounding on the front turn signals/park lights. CM called about 5 pm and said I could come get it if I wanted to.. IF I WANTED TO?!?!?!?!?!?!?!? My stars above, I called a friend to take me out there, got my shoes on, and out the door. Needless to say, I did ride around for a while... a loooooong while.. Wonderful, and I thought the radio didn't work, and it does! There are still some things to tend to...as we all know how old cars are, but they will be tended to in time...Right now, it's drive time.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter Bird Posted June 4, 2013 Share Posted June 4, 2013 Really nice car! One of my all time favourites! Well done. Will be looking forward to reading all about how she comes together-peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 6, 2013 Author Share Posted June 6, 2013 I guess I spoke too soon about the radio. It only worked the one time, dangit!:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smithbrother Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 Fuse?I will, it just needs some sweet talk,Dale in Indy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TexasJohn55 Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 (edited) Bang the dash as soon as you switch it on and listen for the buzz, probably needs a new "oscillator" like mine. (They are called vibrators, but I didn't want to say my car has a vibrator in it.) Edited June 6, 2013 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 Well, I got out Sunday afternoon and rode and rode. The radio works when it's in the mood. It's the same way on my 1987 Chevy pickup, so I'm used to it. I haven't had a chance to go to my friends and get it on the lift. Such rain today, you woulnd't believe.. I'm just hoping it will be better tomorrow, but the weatherman says NO... more rain.... so, maybe Wednesday or Thursday on the lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted June 11, 2013 Share Posted June 11, 2013 Do you still think the transmission is faulty? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 11, 2013 Author Share Posted June 11, 2013 There's something, but no idea what. It's full of fluid. I did get to check that. If I start in low and shirt to high, it works beautifully, but when I try to start on high, it's like the bands are moving, but not grabbing, then they grab, and off we go. I want to get it on the rack to check broken motor and transmission mounts and the thrust pad. My friend hasn't called today about going out to use his lift, so, if not today, hopefully tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 (edited) I finally got under the car. The thrust pad and mounts look fine. I guess the next easiest step is the tachometer. I'll get to it when I can. Rain, rain, and more rain...I forgot to take my camera, so, when I can get it on the lift again, I'll get some pictures. Edited June 14, 2013 by Earl B. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 Well, the monsoons subsided today and I got out to work on the Buick. I chanced the voltage regulator and it's charging like a storm. Fires up, drives sooo good.. I took her out on a freeway and got her up to 70 with no problem, and rode like the Queen Mary.For whatever reason, the hood kept popping up. I'd slam it as hard as I could and a mile or so down the road up again. I thought I had it fixed, and when I got home, dang thing was up again. What do I need to adjust to make it stay down? thanks all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 I had the same problem . I replaced the small springs in the lower latch assembly. I found some springs at a hardware store. Carefully mark the location of the lower latch before removing it. Also, i used a LOT of white lithium grease on all the moving parts. The height of the rubber stops along the back of the mustache bar are very im Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 (edited) I sent that before i was through;The bumpers along the mustache bar are important for adjusting the closed height. Along with the bayonet bolt on the upper latch. A large flat head screw driver will extend and retract the adjustment of the bayonet bolt. Extending the bolt will raise the hood height. Retracting it will lower the closed height. The clearance between the fenders and hood are adjusted by moving the lower latch to the left or right.A lot of trial and error is in order to find the exact position Edited July 5, 2013 by bhambulldog (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 there are two springs on the latch. Here is one. I replaced the springs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 here is the other spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 3, 2013 Author Share Posted July 3, 2013 It's been doing fine..closed as pretty as a picture, and today, this started out of nowhere.. that's what sort of has me...wha happun? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhambulldog Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 That's the way mine did. It worked fine for years... Suddenly it wouldn't stay closed. It took me a while to narrow it down to those small springs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Bob, the pointy thing was straight and now it's on an angle. I have to put my hand under the hood when it's about closed and move it about to get it in the hole. How do I make it stay in the correct place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 Another question, is the power steering tank supposed to lean that way? I've seen a couple of underhood pictures and they are always straight up. The belt with the little spaces in it. I've never seen one like that. Is that a Buick belt or what? And last, the type of hose clamps shown--I'd bet they are wrong. Can someone post a picture of what the correct ones look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 The pointy thing has loosened and that is why your hood is popping up. I believe a 3/4 inch wrench on the back side and a screwdriver in the groove will fix your hood issue. If it is too hard to close, you need to loosen it a turn or two. Too loose? Tighten it. There is a bit of trial and error to get it to close and stay closed.It's ok for your steering fluid reservoir to lean a little bit. That just means the belt is maybe a half inch too long.I wish these questions were in Post War. More people read them and I look brilliant to more people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 4, 2013 Author Share Posted July 4, 2013 And the hose clamps and belt? Hose clamps-correct type or not? If not, what does go there?I've never seen a belt with the grooves cut in like that. Is that the type of belt that belongs on the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrEarl Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 I wish these questions were in Post War. More people read them and I look brilliant to more people Why don't you make Mikey's day....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 Incorrect belt and hose clamps for judging. Fine for driving.Those hose clamps work better and are far cheaper that the tower top repros. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old-tank Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 The pointy thing has loosened and that is why your hood is popping up. I believe a 3/4 inch wrench on the back side and a screwdriver in the groove will fix your hood issue. If it is too hard to close, you need to loosen it a turn or two. Too loose? Tighten it. There is a bit of trial and error to get it to close and stay closed. If tightening does not fix it, remove the whole assembly to discover it broken: weld or replace.Rockauto.com has the correct part numbers for radiator hoses and belts (all GATES brand). Either buy there or use the part numbers to check locally. The original clamps were a mixture of 'tower top' and a different band clamp --- both a pain in the arsch. Only a restored car to be judged should have those stinkin' things...you have the best clamps for a driver. See my website ( http://www.buickrestorer.com/heaterhose/heaterhose.htm ) for a painless way to change hoses.Willie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 I tried adjusting the pointy thing. It is rusted solid to the nut and the nut has more rust on it that anything I've ever seen before, I think. I was able to wiggle it around some, and the hood stayed closed for a long ride. On the way home.. pop.. so, when I got home, I wiggled it some more and just forget it until tomorrow. I think the unit will have to come out and go from there. The pointy thing where the screwdriver slot is, looks like someone has gnawed on it, or maybe hit it with a ballpein hammer trying to adjust it. I could hardly get a screwdriver in it it's so mushed up. That devinitely needs work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Peter Bird Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 finned belt looks inside out, no? Nice thread. Good clean fun Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earl B. Posted July 5, 2013 Author Share Posted July 5, 2013 Peter, that's why I asked, it just didn't look right. The other side of it has a V shape, so, it's got to be in the correct position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick5563 Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 It's just a replacement belt. I'm not sure why they are manufactured like that, but I see them on "restored cars" often. Ding...points come off. Like I said, it's fine for driving.B, pull the whole hood latch out. It's four bolts. Use penetrating oil on the rusted nut, cut a groove in the nose of the pin (pointy thing) with a Dremel tool or similar. Clean everything up, reinstall, adjust...voila! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RivNut Posted July 5, 2013 Share Posted July 5, 2013 This is the upholstery in the car now. Is it Buick? The front seat has a cover on the seat part, so I'm guessing it's rough. The seat back on the drivers seat is torn in places too.My dad was a mechanic at Stuart Conklin Buick in Hutchinson, KS when these cars were sold new. At that time, at least in Hutch, many new cars were driven from the dealership over to Wasson's Upholstery to have a set of covers installed to "protect" the original seats. Dad gave me a '38 Special when I was 13 or 14 (1960 - never got into it, too many cute girls and sports) that had raggedy a$$ed seat covers on the seats. The first thing I did was to pull then off. Underneath was a showroom fresh set of original seats. Who knows what you might find under the covers? The engine in the '38 needed rebuilding and dad didn't want to mess with the babbit bearings. The car sat for a long time. When I went away to college in '67, I heard of a salvage yard in Americus, KS (not far from where I was at school) that specialized in Buicks. I contacted the owner and found a '53 Special engine that had not too many miles on it. Arranged to buy it, called Dad and told him about it. His comment: "Got tired of it sitting in the back field, sold it for $35.00. Not a bad deal, huh?" End of story. The only other thing wrong with it was the paper roll up blind behind the rear seat was brittle.Ed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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