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1952 Pontiac Catalina


Guest GaWajn

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Stripping the paint ...

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Looks like I am going to need a second coat of stipper. I have been using a wire brush ... the hand held kind (welders brush) to remove the softened paint from all these contours. It is very difficult to use a blade or plastic scraper ... I am finding that the manual wire brush is working fine. I will be using a sprayable polyester putty on the metal. It has etching properties and is a very high build ... perfect for filling scratches, but I will need to spot sandblast some areas that have deper rusting and/or pitting.

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Yes and yes. Both a little too harsh for just removing paint on metal. I want to have as little as possible repairing to do so I am using the least invasive procedure. The cup brush ... I use that on rusty parts ... the sponge like wheel ... I use that like a cup brush ... on rusty parts ... but it is not as harsh as a wire wheel on a grinder.

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I must admit that Landman was correct. I used a wire brush cup on an air die grinder, as he suggested, and it worked just fine. The other ways are just too slow ... and the scratching from the wire wheel will easily be covered by the sprayable polyester coat.

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There is the underside stripped and ready for spot sand blasting ... I will do the top side on friday probably ...

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Something happened yesterday that made me think about safety.

I have always used wire wheels on drills in the past. Yesterday was the first time I used a wire wheel on a die grinder. The rotational speed is much higher than a drill. Anyways ... I felt something hit me in the forehead. It stung a little but I didn't think much of it. When I got home ... I noticed I had a wire sticking out of my forehead! When I pulled it out ... I noticed that it was in there pretty good ... maybe an eighth of an inch. That got me to thinking ... that would destroy an eye pretty quickly ...

I always wear glasses, so I never think about eye protection much ... but I think I am going to get a full face shield, and start using it!

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I took a measurement ... just in case I want to reproduce the tag in the future ...

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First coat of stripper applied ...

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First coat removed ... with a razor blade ...

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After removal of the second coat ... the remainder will be removed by mechanical means ...

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This is after the first pass with a DA sander with 220 paper ...

Edited by GaWajn (see edit history)
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Something happened yesterday that made me think about safety.

I have always used wire wheels on drills in the past. Yesterday was the first time I used a wire wheel on a die grinder. The rotational speed is much higher than a drill. Anyways ... I felt something hit me in the forehead. It stung a little but I didn't think much of it. When I got home ... I noticed I had a wire sticking out of my forehead! When I pulled it out ... I noticed that it was in there pretty good ... maybe an eighth of an inch. That got me to thinking ... that would destroy an eye pretty quickly ...

I always wear glasses, so I never think about eye protection much ... but I think I am going to get a full face shield, and start using it!

Oh yes! I've had my share of imbedded wires over the years of my project. So now it is face shiels all the way.

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I decided to use my soda blaster to remove more crap from the trunk lid ... I am using the real blasting soda, not the stuff from the feed store.

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Some before ...

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and after ...

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It does not remove the rust ... but it removes everything else, and does not harm the metal ... the not shiny metal is rust.

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here you can see my attempt at grinding off the rust ...

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I don't like result ... but I am afraid to sand blast. Panel warping is the last thing I need ... but I don't think I have much choice at this point ...

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In my experience sandblasting is fine if the operator knows what they are doing. Having said that, I'm soon to begin my 48 Pontiac Silver Streak project and have opted to have the whole shell chemical dipped. This is not an acid like they used to use but will get rid of all rust/rubber etc and will leave a rust resistant surface behind. Of course, mine has a bit more surface rust than yours.........

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This is what I started with this morning ...

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This next picture is after some light sand blasting ...

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... and then here after a couple of passes with a DA with 80 grit paper ...

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Fill with glaze putty ... only the spots with the deepest pits ...

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I then sprayed a rust encapsulator on the rest of the trunk ... I will let dry, then sand flat ...

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Edited by GaWajn (see edit history)
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hmmm ... duly noted aussiecowboy. You may be right on that point. I think I will be Ok for this time because I am just filling pits that have been freshly sandblasted, but you bring up a valid point. The rust encapsulator that I sprayed on the remainder of the trunk is a precautionary measure because I will not be able to work on the panel tomorrow, and I didn't want any new rust to form. Usually ... my first coat on a panel would be sprayable polyester putty with etching properties.

Once I have block sanded with 180 grit ... I will be spaying on polyester putty over the entire trunk, then blocking with 320 grit ... followed by a primer sealer ... then a base coat ... followed by a clear coat ... and then a buffing/polishing.

The trunk is like a test panel for me to see if this process (suggested by my local Sherwin Williams rep), will be satisfactory. If it is ... then this is the process that I will use for the entire car.

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Live and learn here ...

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The glazing putty is about ten times too thick here ...

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This is the thickness I should have put it on ...

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And after a quick sanding ... the pits are filled ... looks like I have a lot of elbow grease to use up getting all that extra putty sanded off ... oh well ...

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I bet if there are any bodymen following this thread ... they are having a good laugh :)

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Most of the putty sanded off ...

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and 95% of it ended on the floor ...

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 months later...
Guest Rousifier

Hi, GaWajn - Regarding the left hand corner bumper guard, would you be so kind as to advise what is used as a standoff for these pieces? If you had a picture of what they used, that would be very much appreciated. I am assuming that there is some kind of bushing in between the bumper and the guard, but have been unable to find either a description or a part no. I recently purchased two, (NOS), and they didn't come with the bushings or instructions. :( Regards and thanks, Rousifier.

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R.H. Front curved molding (NOS Chrome) = $74

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L.H. Rear corner bumper guard (NOS Chrome) = $82

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my 1954 pontiac master parts catalog has the bumper wing guard spacers listed, group 7.828, front inner spacers (2) p/n 515972, front outer spacers (2) 515973. you might call bob ryan at RMI restoration 603-465-7270, and see if he's still making new spacers. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.

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Guest GaWajn

I know what you mean (spacers between the bumper and corner bumper guards)... I don't know what they are called ... or what the part number is. All the parts that I have removed from my car have been boxed up and are in storage. I have no easy access to get it to snap a photo. I have seen them on ebay from time to time. There are none at the moment ... I checked.

I know this is absolutely no help at all ... the only thing I can do ... is keep checking ebay, and when I find one ... I will report back here ...

For those who were following my restoration ... I have taken a break from the project. I will get back to it ... I just don't know when ...

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  • 4 weeks later...
Guest GaWajn

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Got the car totally stripped, and it is sitting outside for the time being, so that I can get my shop organized. I have started to work again ... part-time to get some funds so that I can continue with my project ...

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Guest GaWajn

Naw ... season is done ... thanks anyways ...

Here are a couple of photos of my polishing station in the shop.

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... I will start on the stainless at some point :rolleyes:

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nice and neat, but you will not be able to polish long pieces since they will hit the wall. i have mine on half inch steel top, 10 inch steel i beam stand and half ince steel base. free standing . i did all the pieces from my 63 bonne & 63 GP.

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Guest GaWajn

I understand what you are saying ... I believe that I will be able to do all the trim from my "52 ... but in case that I need to modify my setup ... it will be easy ... it's all wood.

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Guest GaWajn

I wanted to try my polisher ... I had an old ski doo aluminum clutch that was pretty cruddy ...

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I just followed the instructions from the caswell site ... and it looks OK, for a first attempt ...

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It's a little cloudy ... if I had spent more time on the prep work (sanding), it would have been better ... it's a learning process ...

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... of course ... aluminum should be way easier than stainless I think ...

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  • 2 weeks later...

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