Guest GaWajn Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 (edited) I got a call from my engine rebuilder's shop today. I was told the carburetor is restored and ready to go. His take on it was that the carb was in very good condition. It was extremely dirty though ... probably never been done. The bushings were all good etc ... his opinion was the carb is off a low mileage car. That supports my theory that this car is an original 67,000 mile car. He used an untrasonic tank cleaning system to get the carb clean ... sourced a new kit ... and restored the unit. The cost ... $200. Not too bad I think. I will have pictures when I go pick it up in a few ... Running total = $7377I spoke to him about the heat riser valve in the manifold. He told me to cut it out, since it was seized, and make sure that the shaft holes are air tight, and I should be good to go. He adjusted the choke for summer driving only, which is what this car will be doing 100% of the time ... so that is fine by me. Edited August 27, 2013 by GaWajn (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Glad she is coming along for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Al Brass Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Some oxy-aceteylene heat will free that heat valve and parts, like the springs are available for other vehicles. It wouldn't be that difficult to fix.Al Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 I got some free cabinetry from a local shop that was remodeling ... Installed them in my shop ... it cleaned up the place nicely ... I sold my 3HP compressor and I am on the lookout for a 5 to 7.5 HP unit. I need that to be able to run my blasting cabinet inside my shop ... ... that's a picture of the unit I sold. It was a good unit ... but not enough CFM for my purposes ... I want to get a used compressor because the new ones are well over $2000 in my area, and I want to spend more money on the restoration ... and less on a compressor ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Wish my shop looked as nice!Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 You might not find anything anymore! LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 Some nice used cabinets woukd look swell in my garage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 5, 2013 Share Posted August 5, 2013 You are correct Landman ... I can't find anything anymore ... and just when I start to know where everything is ... it will time for another makeover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 6, 2013 Share Posted August 6, 2013 ... blasting cabinet is in the shop ... now I just need a compressor to get back to the work at hand ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 18, 2013 Share Posted August 18, 2013 I found a compressor ... 7.5 HP (rebuilt) / new motor (single phase) / 80 Gallon tank / ... i should have it sometime this week ... ... also ... I have a chance to get a ragtop ... http://forums.aaca.org/f142/1964-galaxy-ragtop-357268.html...still undecided if I will get it ... but leaning towards yes ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 (edited) Finaly got the compressor in the shop ... ... now the wiring ... and piping ... then I will be set to go ...It is a rebuilt 7.5 HP four cylinder two stage ... 32 CFM at 125PSI, 600 RPM, with a new Leeson electric motor ... If this is not enough to run my blasting needs ... I give up;) Edited August 20, 2013 by GaWajn (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted August 20, 2013 Share Posted August 20, 2013 That should do it. It'll certainly run your airbrush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 That should do it. It'll certainly run your airbrush. LMAO!!! Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 What!!! I need an airbrush now too??? ... ... got the piping done tonight ... ... I wanted to get at least 50 feet of hard pipe, to help the water vapor condense before it gets to the water trap. Since I have a smallish shop ... I made some pipe zig/zags ... kind of like a radiator without the cooling fins ... Hopefully, most of the condensed water will gravitate back to the tank ... which I plan to drain daily ... I have 2 air circuits ... A filter/water trap and a regulator on the main line ... the first leg will supply the basting ... tire filling etc ... the second leg has an oiler in it to supply oil for the air tools ... ... tomorrow the wiring ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Wiring done ... everything works as planned ... so far ... I learned something about wiring a compressor yesterday ... a lot of electricians have no clue how to go about wiring a compressor to correct specs. I asked four different electricians how they were going to do the job ... and got four different answers. That got me to thinking ... the compressor place just had a chart and didn't know much more ... or any reasoning why things were done they way they were. So I read up on the subject ... Seems like they correct way (as per the code book) to size the wire for an electric motor on a compressor (more than 1 HP), is to consult a chart in the code book to find the amperage needs of the motor based on horse power. The code says not to use the rating on the data plate because the motor might be replaced with another unit in the future and the wiring needs to be safe for any 7.5 HP motor. The chart states that for a 7.5 HP motor ... the running amperage is 40 Amps. Multiply that number by 1.25 and you get 50 amps. That is the amperage that you have to allow for ... in this case ... it translates to 6 gauge wire. Good enough ... that makes perfect sense to me ...Now for the breaker ... that is what had me confused. The compressor place said I needed a 100 amp breaker ... as per their chart. That didn't sound right to me. I did a little checking, and it seems that for the motors to be CSA approved (Canadian code), they have to have the protection built in. I assume that it is a similar situation in the USA. In this case ... there is a rule in the code that states that you need to size the breaker ... not to protect the wire ... but so that the unit will start. The formula for the maximum breaker allowed is running amps (40 amps from the chart) times 250% ... that gives us 100 amps ... max .. for the breaker. Seems that the breaker is there just as a ground fault/short circuit protection.Don't shoot me ... I am just the messenger. It sounded weird to me at the start ... but after checking with multiple sources ... it seems like that is the way to do it. You don't need an 100 amp breaker ... but you are allowed up to 100 amps for the breaker. We have some pretty cold weather up here in the winter, so starting amperage might be a little higher in the winter months compared to someone in the southern parts of the continent. I chose a 70 dual pole breaker because a friend of mine is using that rating with his 7.5 HP unit and has had to problems with tripping the breaker. It works just fine now. We will see if I have problems in the winter ... if I do ... I just need to upsize the breaker ... up to the allowed maximum of 100 amps.I just thought I would share my findings ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan at larescorp Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Good to know. I am about to wire in my new shop and this was covers one of the questions I had for my compressor. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Excellent looking compressor! I'm jealous!Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 I tried it today ... using 65-70 PSI on the blasting cabinet ... the compressor was off more than on ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 Boy, that must be a relief to the ears. Mine runs all the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 (edited) OK ... enough about shop stuff ... back to work!I will be starting the restoration of sheet metal parts that just need to be cleaned and painted.This is the subject this morning ... the radiator shroud. Here you see it in the condition it came off the car.... here you see the part after it was glass beaded in the cabinet.... this is the stuff I use for rust converting. Supposedly ... it transforms the remaining rust to a black primer like substance. After 24 hours of drying time ... it can be worked with filler, primer ... in other words ... normal body work can be done to the piece.... as you can see ... some pits are turning black ... in fact ... converting the remaining rust, which was not too visible after the glass beading. Tomorrow ... I will be applying an etching primer surfacer. This is like ... sprayable putty. It works like an extreme high build primer, and it has etching properties to grab onto the metal ...I do not propose that my methods are the only or best methods to use ... it is the method mostly recommended by my body shop supplies shop. I am using Sherwin Williams products. I will not get into a debate on which company makes better products ... I am using these products because I got the best information/help from the Sherwin Williams people. They went the extra mile to be helpful to me, and that counts for a lot in my book! Edited August 26, 2013 by GaWajn (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 26, 2013 Share Posted August 26, 2013 Here is another piece from the same area of the car ... ... as you can see, it is very rusty and full of pits ... ... cleaned up in the cabinet ... as best I could ... ... we will see what the sprayable putty will do on this tomorrow ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted August 27, 2013 Share Posted August 27, 2013 ... this piece needed to be bent back into shape I think ... ... I just used a vice as a bending machine ... ... almost good as new ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted August 29, 2013 Share Posted August 29, 2013 Your battery tray looks to be in very good condition. These usually are damaged by acid from the battery. Great car! Having previously owned a 1950 Pontiac I find this a very interesting thread. Keep up the good work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 More cleaning ... same process ... different parts ... I wonder if you can get the air cleaner decals from somewhere? Anyone have any ideas where they could be sourced?I masked the inside of the cleaner because it did not need any blasting ... and since it is left bare metal ... it looks nicer if it is not blasted ... One more for the semi gloss black painting pile ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Heading out to Europe for a couple of weeks ... back in October :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan at larescorp Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Nice work! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted September 12, 2013 Share Posted September 12, 2013 Heading out to Europe for a couple of weeks ... back in October :cool:Are you going to go and say hello to Roger Zimmermann? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Back from across the pond ... had a great time ... now lets see if I can get going on this project again ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 GaWajn, try then for the decals, GM likely used all the same.https://www.fillingstation.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted October 2, 2013 Share Posted October 2, 2013 Thanks for the info Landman. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 ... I spent the afternoon making a cart for the body.... started with an old boat trailer that was rotting out in the back lot ... ... obviously ... this is a yard trailer ... for light loads ... no way this contraption is ever going back on the road, with tandem loads ... ... I just used old parts ... metal that was laying around ... the setup is good enough that I will be able to wheel the body around until I get a rotisserie made to start the body work. The goal is to get the body off the frame and onto the trailer, then wheel the frame into my shop and start working on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 pulled the car into the big shop to start the body off the frame stage of this project.... once the splash guard was removed, this puller worked to get the pitman arm away from the steering box/column ... ... column out of the car ... half the body mount bolts came out ok ... some broke ... some need to cut off with a torch ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 A lot of work. It will pay off in the end! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 (edited) lift back ... support ... lift front ... support ... rinse and repeat till the tires are clear to roll under the body... frame rolled out from under the body ... ... body dropped onto the modded boat trailer ... ... frame rolled into my shop ... now I have something to do for the next few weeks/months. Now that was a good days work!I couldn't believe it ... there were 24 body mount bolts! Edited October 21, 2013 by GaWajn (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 21, 2013 Share Posted October 21, 2013 You look like your in good shape to start prep work and finishing. Looking forward to more pictures of the progress. This Pontiac is going to look great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 (edited) I am amazed how easy the brake drums were to remove ... I needed to remove them because the emergency cable needed to be released from the rear brakes ... to be able to remove the rear end from the frame.... here you see what needs to be removed from the rear brakes ... ... rear end is free ... just needed to remove the shackles and front leaf spring mounting bolts ... everything came apart easy ... ... except ... these bushings. I hammered on them a bit, but I didn't want to break anything. Do they just need to be hammered out? Are these bushings still available? The rear shackle mount is riveted to the frame. How do you guys go about restoring that part ... just remove and replace? I don't have access to a riveter so if I replace the unit with bolts ... it will not be correct ... any ideas/experience with this out there?... these two pics show the driver side rear most part of the X member ... bent. I have no idea how this could have happened ... the rest of the frame is straight as an arrow. We can't find any evidence of it being hit ... or any other bending ... hmmmm .... ... on the bright side ... there are no holes in the frame ... just surface rust/scaling. It looks like clean and paint ... after I fix the bend in the X member ... Edited October 22, 2013 by GaWajn (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 22, 2013 Share Posted October 22, 2013 Bushing are usually pressed in. I'm not sure if they are available. Might contact Eaton Springs. Not knowing if the original leafs are weak I would consider replacing them. New springs normally come with related bushing and shackles. Bolt on affair. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest GaWajn Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Got most of the front end/brake lines/gas lines off ... Shocks are out as well ... Now i need to borrow some kind of coil spring compressor to remove the control arms etc ... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avgwarhawk Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 A whole lotta scraping going on! The upper control arms has changed drastically over the years. Now the don't exist for the most part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Taylormade Posted October 23, 2013 Share Posted October 23, 2013 Great thread! I'm going through the same process on my 32 Dodge DL. Where did you come up with the puller for the pitman arm? Rental, or did you buy it somewhere? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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