herm111

Members
  • Content Count

    199
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

41 Excellent

About herm111

  • Rank
    Kohnke Rebabbitting

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    KohnkeRebabbittingService.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Clare, Iowa
  • Interests:
    cars, tractors.

Recent Profile Visitors

1,023 profile views
  1. The first thing is to check the crank pin size. Measure up and down, and then at a Quarter turn. Then across the pin, from one side to to the other. If over a 1/2 to 3/4 of a thousandths, the crank should be touched up. So what ever the desired clearance would be, say, on a 2 inch pin .002 thousandths, your actual clearance would be .002-75. you always have to fit to the largest diameter. Check the rods for cracks, gap between the babbitt thrust and the rod. Having all the shims, is a Plus! By all means, have the rods checked for alignment, twist, Bend, and Off-Set. Most old GOOD shim pieces are is .002 thousandths increments, the cheaper ones, as today are in .003 thousandths pieces. So, if you have .003 thousandths pieces, first only remove one shim from side one side, if it is to tight, leave the .003 out, and put in the .002, and if that is to tight, take out the .002, and replace, with a .001. square foot sheets of .002, and .001, are sold in Mc-Master-Carr. I don't know your bolt size, so I won't say the torque. If you use Plastigage, do NOT use it dry. Your rods are still factory, with Tin base Babbitt, another Plus. If usable, the crank pins should be polished. But the biggest concern is the 100 years of grit in the engine that is going to go through the bearings when you run it. These are 1930 Buick, Rods, and Mains. Well, I have told you more then I know. Thanks, Herm.
  2. It sounds like there were many things wrong that gave your engine no good chance to survive the 8,000 miles. Yes, the rods on any engine have to be straight, in its twist, bend, and off set, or the stage is set for an automatic, failure. The chance of you getting a good babbitt job, can be slim, to none. I would like see a few pictures of the work. I would think in 1920, the babbitt would be poured solid in the rods. What was the clearance on the pistons, to cylinder wall? All Aluminum piston pins have to be checked for clearance, as many are to tight to survive, they can gall. What was the Bearing clearances? Is your engine pressure fed? Herm.
  3. The best is J & M Machine in Southborough, Ma. They work on the exotic engines, no one else will touch. They also have a web site, and is very interesting. Talk to Mike, or John. 508-460-0733. You won't regret it!
  4. Yes, we babbitt the steel shells and left .070 thousandths more babbitt then the size of the crankshaft journals, after grinding. Then the inserts are fit, to each saddle, and align bored. Herm.
  5. It looks like the filter measures, Two Feet, 4 inches, and 13/16's long ! Herm.
  6. I would sure like to see close up pictures of all those 50.00 bearings. Herm.
  7. Cotter pins have to be tight, as heavy oil splash can loosen them, and take them out. Also use the size of pin that the bolt holes have in them. If the holes do not line up with the nuts, drill with the size of bit, and open a clean path for the pin. While drilling, use a shop vac. to catch any drill chips. It works like a charm. Also, do not for get to check your Rods for alignment, twist, bend, and off set! Herm.
  8. Do NOT go over 40 Pounds, on a 3/8's fine thread bolt. 35# is good. start at 30#, and then pull for the pin hole.
  9. Cork, with a thin layer of clear RTV . Herm.
  10. Those squirt holes should be small. Many rebabbitters drill bigger holes, because they are special sizes, and break easy! Herm
  11. Thrust should be, not under .003, and not over .004. We shoot for .003 to .003-50. You shouldn't have had to use sand paper. Make sure you scrub the bearings when done, with warm soapy water. Your bearings should have been already done, with a smooth, reflective surface, for good oil wedge. Herm.
  12. In the first picture, the middle hole with the babbitt, is that pluging off a squirt hole, or is the web of the rod drilled for oiling the wrist pin? If it is a squirt hole, I have never seen a squirt hole, connected to a circle groove, for constant oiling. Herm.
  13. Did you check all the rods for twist, bend, and offset? Herm.
  14. Mr. Maok, I hope those are not the rods that you are going to use, in your new engine. All those holes that are inside the Rod bearing, that I see, and in the out side thrust flanges, is dirt in your bearing babbitt. Those particular holes, are are caused from a Dirty pour, that had skimmings from the top of the babbitt pot surface, or some Guys just heat babbitt up in a ladle, and is poured into the jig, very crude. When you do it that way, the babbitt in the ladle will burn, and the burnt babbitt will go down the the bearing, and make the holes that you see. The problem is, the holes are not just on the surface, they will go clear to the core surface on the rod. So now you have dirt, between the tinning, if there is any, and the babbitt, which means that it is not stuck, as nothing sticks to dirt. Also, look at where the out sides of the thrust, touch the rod side, if that side is stuck, it will look like one metal, soaked in to the other. If there is a crack between the babbitt, and the rod, like water on wax, it will not be stuck. I will post some pictures of what dirt looks like from the back of the bearing, and also what the side of a flange should, and should not look like. It also looks like someone took Emery Cloth, to the inside of your bearings! Thanks, Herm.