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1947 56C Project "Can't finish unless you start"


jackofalltrades70

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Matt,

If you have everything lined up to your satisfaction you may want to try this idea. Drill little alignment holes where two pieces meet. For example, before I take off a well aligned hood I drill a hole through each hinge into the hood's reinforcement structure. When replacing a small nail inserted into the two holes will ensure perfect alignment once again. It may save a lot of frustration.

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Well, I got home yesterday and wifey was "STRESSED OUT"! So, I asked her if she wanted to go to the casino, cause she really enjoys it and I cannot say that I don't! I won enough money to purchase the following:

So, the color is picked and now its just up to me to get everything finished up on the car and clean the rest of the garage. I worked to 2 hours tonight organizing and I didn't even manage to work myself out of a corner! I have A LOT of cleaning to do and it will probably take me next week to finish the cleaning and finish up the last of the bodywork. ;)

Dark Metallic Blue will be the color. I don't think I will regret going with the original color. Let the games begin. Matt :cool::D:p

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Today, I cleaned on the garage some more, organized my extra parts, stored things away in the basement and took the convertible top apart after taking a long video of how it was together. I also took pictures of the irons at different angles for reference. The parts that aren't chromed will go next week for powdercoating to a local guy. The chrome irons, went into the boxes of parts to be rechromed. I cannot believe how many things are accumulating in those boxes. I really think and hope that I can finish everything else up this week so the following week I'm laying the epoxy sealer.

I asked a lot of questions while at the paint shop, because I'm a novice at this. The key is asking politely and thoroughly. As long as they aren't really busy, they are really happy to help out and explain all steps to follow and how to prep before-hand. They also gave me some sheets to refer to.

Matt

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Ok, garage is 80% clean. I now have the bodywork at 98% finished and hope to continue tonight. A little more sanding and then glazing on the parts from yesterday.

I have to get my leaf blower started so I can "blow down" the garage. That should get rid of the majority of stuff accumulated in nooks and crannys. Then I'll wash down the floors. I have to find my box fan and filters to start setting up draft on the future paint room. Also need to start figuring out where all of the parts are gonna hang.

Matt

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That is why I painted my cars outdoors. I washed the asphalt and let er rip. The paint dries fast when you use the catylst hardner. But the paint will draw flying insects. Found it was best to paint in the last half hour of direct overhead sunshine. and no paint overspray to clean up from the same places you just cleaned.

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'Nothing personal', but painting outdoors makes it much more difficult to produce a quality paint job, sure if you are looking for rust protection, and DRIVER quality, then that's your choice.

It isn't just bugs, you have wind, and stuff flying in the air too. The HVLP guns reduce the over spray a ton. I have painted several cars in my garage, with very good results, even in my garage bugs have been an issue, so outdoor painting in my opinion is asking for a lot of issues. Paint and supplies are very expensive today, and correcting a poor paint job isn't easy, and certainly not fun.

I believe a garage can easily be set up as an inexpensive paint booth. There is a reason paint booths were invented.

As I said NOTHING PERSONAL, just not what I would do or recommend.

Dale in Indy

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Ok, I wandered back out into the garage again tonight for and hour or so. I worked on the header a little more and POR15'd the top area of the header. The rest will be painted to match the rest of the convertible the top mechanism. Which, by the way was picked up by the powder coater today. I told him to take his time and do it right, so I will probably see it next week or so. I run over the car in different angles of light and only found a few more spots to work over. Might not be the fastest bodywork/paint prep job, but I wanna make sure my first paint job is quality first. So, it might be another week or so until I am happy that the body and parts are ready. I have to go back to the paint shop for another can of catalyzer for the epoxy prime sealer anyways.

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Matt, YOU know it's all in the prep work. Lighting is so very important in finding issues BEFORE top coat is applied, again YOU know this.

I am presently preparing a piece for top coat, and just about the time I think I'm ready I find something. For me, TESTING ON A PANEL is what works for me. Like the trunk lid for example.

On my first car, I hired a painter to come and check out my prep work, and that really helped. I also had him come back and shoot some of the car, and I learned from that too, but that's just ME.

I wish you well,

Dale in Indy

P.S. I paid him $100.00 plus gave him $20.00 for gas. He was at my place in total approx. 3 hours.

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Keep in mind that fit and finish in '47 was much different than fit and finish in 2013. Do the best you can do and as long as it does not look horrible, then go with it before this becomes a millstone.

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I've done quite a bit of checking and it seems that most convertible Buicks 46-48 have a horrible sheetmetal alignment problem. More so on the passenger side than the drivers. This is exactly what I am seeing with my car. I have the passenger fender back off the car again and am contemplating my next move. ;)

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Does it really look so bad that you can't live with it? I have been looking at cars wherever I am and noticing the horrible alignment on a lot of stuff. I can still recogonize the cars though. The lesson I am learning here is to take pictures of all the alignments before dissassembly. Then just do the best you can do to repeat it when putting it back together. After all, restoration means to bring it back to the way it was when it left the factory, and it left the factory with this problem, so why make it better?

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I'm sure this isn't the issue, but in case,,,,,,,,,,,

Car must be sitting on the suspension, not on frame stands. On the ground, that's been my experience.

Dad restored a lot of 41's, almost all were verts, and I recall as if it were yesterday this issue.

For what it's worth, I wish you well,

Dale in Indy

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Guest Rob McDonald

[h=2]"Can't finish unless you say Good Enough!"[/h]Don't pay any attention to Dale or you'll never be shooting paint. Yes, some panel fits may change when you get the car sitting on its tires again. Hard to think of something as substantial as a Buick frame being flexible but things will continue to move and twist and flex as this big old car eventually rolls down the road, especially being a convertible. There's probably some wisdom in leaving big gaps, so that there's no metal-to-metal contact the first time you navigate a not-so-level rail crossing.

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BIG gaps aren't going to solve the potential gap issues. IT'S GAPS THAT ARE WIDER AT DIFFERENT POINTS AROUND PERIMETER OF THE DOOR, that often show up if you don't hang and adjust the doors sitting on the suspension.

You said it, converts aren't as ridged as a closed body car, period. The large 'X' frame is a nice piece, for sure, but it will twist.

I do wish you well, and I can't be offended.

Dale in Indy

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Guest Rob McDonald

The MG I just sold had panels gaps like a mid-40s Buick. The bolt-on panels were the right shapes but the body tub was all wrong. It was assembled in April of 1973, which is probably the historic bottom of the bucket low point of the British auto industry. Strikes were both wildcat and long-term and quality was not on anyone's radar. Or if it was, the radar was supplied by Lucas.

When I had the rust cut out in 2004, the bodyman noted that the inner and outer sills are structural, designed to be spot-welded every few inches. Mine had a tack weld at the front and another one at the back. None in between. Also, he found that none of the original body panels had even a whiff of paint on their non-exposed surfaces. Amazing that the car didn't rust completely away.

After my guy buttoned-up the body again, he had a heck of a time getting the doors and trunk lid to line up. He even tried some spare panels that he had kicking around the shop (he's an MG specialist) but they fit - or rather didn't fit - just the same. Very badly. He eventually settled on compromises that looked halfway decent, while keeping the doors from flying open at speed. I had to leave the drain plugs out of the trunk floor because the lid didn't quite meet the seal all the way 'round.

Despite these challenge, that MG still looks pretty, especially now that it's in someone else's driveway. Panel gaps are only really important to those who try to improve them. MATT, the rest of us will be dazzled by your inky blue paint, your scarlet interior, and all that gleaming chrome. Get on with it, man, we're all eagerly waiting!

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I'm going to fit the fender one last time. A good friend sent me some pictures of his car so I know what I am shooting for. I was there once, but then I "over" adjusted it. Thanks guys for the comments. I promise I will not get BADD disease! Afterwards of aligning the fender back up, I'll drill some pilot holes in the fenders for some small finishing nails and then off they come to be painted. Shoot, I'm even contemplating pulling the body back off to shoot the color as I never had the correct paint to paint the cowl section. Thinking, thinking, thinking! Matt

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Well, I had a nice visit here in the garage from Paul Girard (pirate) here on the chat board. He drove over here from Mass. We had talked that he was thinking about stopping by, but he suprised me today. He is also restoring a 47' RM convertible, but us much further along than I. He gave me some good pointers for getting the sheet metal closer. We talked for awhile about the cars, swapped some parts, took a couple pictures and he was off to visit se other friends in NY I think.

Made for a great afternoon. Matt

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Afterwards of aligning the fender back up, I'll drill some pilot holes in the fenders for some small finishing nails and then off they come to be painted. Shoot, I'm even contemplating pulling the body back off to shoot the color as I never had the correct paint to paint the cowl section. Thinking, thinking, thinking! Matt

Boy that sound familiar! It works great and it REALLY saves time. Good luck Matt. Watching every few days.

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Over the years I have assembled a lot of car bodies. both antique and late model and I found none to be more difficult to get right than the 1946 to 48 Buick. As I said when we talked last friday patience and persistance will get it right. It was nice meeting you Matt.

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Yes, very smart to put paint on hold if/when you don't feel prep is where it should be. Been there, done that.

Preparing for paint is a skill, and lots of work, but YOU know, it's the prep that makes the paint job nice.

I wish you well, FOR SURE....

Dale in Indy

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