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Car on tile


padgett

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John, I can't, nor apparently can anyone else, explain it to your satisfaction. It's sometimes amazing how common sense can be so uncommon.

If you have just a tire and rim, inflated to 35 PSI, sitting on a garage floor, then at the contact patch where the tire is sitting, yes, it's 35 psi against the floor. If the tire and wheel weigh 70 pounds, for example, then the contact patch is 2 square inches, 2 x 35 + 70 pounds supported weight.

That's not a personal theory, nor a "goofy" idea, it's scientific fact. The pressure has to be equal for equilibrium to exist. You don't seem to comprehend the difference between weight and pressure, oh well, let's move on.......because you're convinced I'm wrong and it doesn't seem like we can change that fact.....

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Mustang... Weight IS a factor. The area of rubber contacting the ground changes with the weight of the car.

Load the car down, the tires flatten out like pancakes and the area of rubber on the ground increases. The pressure in the tires does not increase (well maybe a tiny bit).

Pump the tires up real hard and the contact patch on the ground gets smaller.

In any case, the contact patch will come into equilibrium with the pressure in the tire so that the pressure on the ground is equal to the PSI in the tire.

Think of the car as resting on a column of air equal to the contact patch X the pressure in the tire.

If the air pressure is not holding up the car I would like to know what is? And if the air pressure is 30 pounds per square inch how can it hold up more than 30 pounds per square inch?

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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Mustang... Weight IS a factor. The area of rubber contacting the ground changes with the weight of the car.

Load the car down, the tires flatten out like pancakes and the area of rubber on the ground increases. The pressure in the tires does not increase (well maybe a tiny bit).

Pump the tires up real hard and the contact patch on the ground gets smaller.

In any case, the contact patch will come into equilibrium with the pressure in the tire so that the pressure on the ground is equal to the PSI in the tire.

Think of the car as resting on a column of air equal to the contact patch X the pressure in the tire.

If the air pressure is not holding up the car I would like to know what is? And if the air pressure is 30 pounds per square inch how can it hold up more than 30 pounds per square inch?

As I, previously alluded to, I am a, largely, uneducated man. I did not do well in school and have spent the last 45, or so, years in a program of self education. This has consisted of frustration, shedding of blood (my own), butting heads with people in positions of authority, and so forth. This being said, I set of on another path of enlightenment last night and attempted to absorb the information in the Boeing link as well as a number of other treatises on the subject of pressure/contact patch, load, etc. It would seem, that in the immortal words of that great American statesman, Arthur Fonzerelli, I was wr........, wrrroooo.............Well, you get it. Rustys explanation was the only one that was understandable to my low functioning process. I deign to the knowledge of those who tried to set me straight, an apologize for my mule headedness.

In my defense, I still feel I was correct on the other board in the great fuel line debate.

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As I, previously alluded to, I am a, largely, uneducated man. I did not do well in school and have spent the last 45, or so, years in a program of self education. This has consisted of frustration, shedding of blood (my own), butting heads with people in positions of authority, and so forth. This being said, I set of on another path of enlightenment last night and attempted to absorb the information in the Boeing link as well as a number of other treatises on the subject of pressure/contact patch, load, etc. It would seem, that in the immortal words of that great American statesman, Arthur Fonzerelli, I was wr........, wrrroooo.............Well, you get it. Rustys explanation was the only one that was understandable to my low functioning process. I deign to the knowledge of those who tried to set me straight, an apologize for my mule headedness.

In my defense, I still feel I was correct on the other board in the great fuel line debate.

Hey John, no big deal. I'm glad you understand. I interpreted in your earlier post that you may have thought I was talking down to you and that was not my intention but if it came across that way to you I sincerely apologize. I really just wanted to help and keep it simple. I was taught to note all my assumptions and properly label EVERYTHING, so my insistent use of lbs and sq in, etc comes from that. I guess my explanation didn't work, but am glad Rusty's did.

Now back to parking cars on tile!

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Yes, we did get away from topic, and John, I'm glad and appreciate the fact that you took the time to investigate the pressure thing, I know that was a big step since you were convinced we were "goofy"!! I'm also glad that Rusty had a simple explanation, that worked!

I'm not even going to think about the fuel line issue. I can tell you that I'm dealing with an 8 inch water line, 1800 feet long, that loses pressure due to size and length, but even I'm having a hard time understanding that one!

Best to all.....dc

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:confused: I can't help myself...... nobody commented on how atmospheric pressure will effect the true readings of the actual air pressure. You also forgot to mention the height above sea level. :rolleyes:

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Now that we've settled this how about we argue over whether slowing down the rate at which coolant flows thru a radiator increases cooling or not. I'll start.....IT DOESN'T (assuming cavitation is not an issue).

I discussed this with friend who is an HVAC man with over 40 years experience. He told me that if you take one molecule of water (you're going to need a big magnifying glass) and time it as it passes through the system, and then remove the thermostat and time it again and, say for example, it takes twice the time for Mr. Molecule to complete the circuit, the assumption is made that the water is flowing too fast and doesn't have time to cool. The spoiler in this old chestnut is that the molecule is passing through the radiator twice as often, so it is being cooled just as much. I, at this time, choose to believe him.

I will not go into the argument about concrete sucking the life out of a battery;)

As to the tile issue, fill the car with helium. Don't use hydrogen. "Oh the humanity"

Edited by 58Mustang (see edit history)
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I read the Boeing 747 comment page and I clearly understand the tire pressure and PSI load content. Can you explain how I get the 747 through the 9 X 9 garage door? :P

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I read the Boeing 747 comment page and I clearly understand the tire pressure and PSI load content. Can you explain how I get the 747 through the 9 X 9 garage door? :P

Little tiny pieces...one at a time. Does your garage have a tile floor?

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As crazy as this sounds, I just started looking into installing a plastic tile floor from racedeck. See their web site. Racedeck.com My 30's cars never seemed to drip too bad and a little bit of speedy dry on the same spots on the floor worked well....... until I bought a 1914 car with a total loss oil system. Looks like a river under the car now. I am still checking prices. Ed :) Looks like the manatee had too much hot Mexican food! :eek:

Edited by edinmass (see edit history)
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Keeping on the subject of tile on the floor, if the manatte did that on the tile floor I think that it would turn up the edges of the tile!

Yeah, but the car would slide right in!

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Now the thread is fun! I've looked at Racedeck too, and have a sample, it's a very tough plastic, and also fairly expensive at 3-3.50 per square foot. I too worry about oil getting under it, as no matter what there'll be a car leaking somewhere.....

I like the molecule of water story, makes strange sense.....

Not for cooling, but I was getting overflow out of my Pierce radiator, when you'd run fast and then take your foot off the gas....I took a freeze plug the diameter of the return hose to the radiator, drilled a 5/8" hole in it, and installed it in the hose. Car runs fine, never overheats and never over flows.

So slowing the flow works, I can't say that it improves cooling, but can surely say that it doesn't hurt cooling......

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I'm kinda lucky, while my wife won't let me hang out with the boys at the local gin mill, she is OK with me spending most of my free time in the garage! :D

post-31625-143138477396_thumb.jpg

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I'm kinda lucky, while my wife won't let me hang out with the boys at the local gin mill, she is OK with me spending most of my free time in the garage! :D

I'll be right over! Your garage looks to be a LOT more fun than mine. Does yours have a tile floor?

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