Landman Posted May 16, 2012 Author Share Posted May 16, 2012 Thanks, but I can't take credit for it. It was a tip from someone else. works fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 17, 2012 Share Posted May 17, 2012 Hi Pat,The trim rings you mentioned for the spare tyre covers, do you have pictures of these as I'm looking for what I think sounds like a similar thing for my dodge two spare wheel coversRegardsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 The ones I'm talking about are the ones on the side of the cover. See the arrow below.Northfield Forming & Machine Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 17, 2012 Author Share Posted May 17, 2012 Hi Pat,The trim rings you mentioned for the spare tyre covers, do you have pictures of these as I'm looking for what I think sounds like a similar thing for my dodge two spare wheel coversRegardsIanHi Ian,Here's an actual picture of mine. As you can see there isn't a top band like on the tan car, just on the face plate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 18, 2012 Share Posted May 18, 2012 Hi Pat,I see what you mean. I must say that i've never really noticed ones on the side before. Do you know if your supplier makes the ones on the top. I have the spare wheel covers but not the metal trims.RegardsIan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 18, 2012 Author Share Posted May 18, 2012 Ian, if you look at their website there is a picture of what I believe is a Buick sidemount and it has both rings. I assume they do both if they show both. It may be worth a phone call. They show an email address but they don't go there according to them. they had someone to look after that who quit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 Well...yesterday was a turning point. I decided to concentrate on chasing down all the reasons why it won't start. I started by priming the oil system because I expected a lot of cranking. Brought the oil up to the rocker arms.Then I put new innards in the distributor. Then I checked the compression, spark at the points and put everything back together. Set up a 12 volt battery and the gas tank from my snow blower. It coughed and spat then sputtered to life barely idling. Gave it a bit on the idle speed then it ran reasonably well. I attach the evidence, a hint of smoke and a blurry fan.Later I went to take photos of a friend's '48 GMC for someone who is interested in purchasing it. The '48 Chevrolet is for sale too. Don't know about the Merc. He's had it since new. that car has never been touched. It is as close to a new '66 Park Lane convertible as you can get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Congrats on getting "lift off" . That was exciting to me when I reached that point. Nice GMC! Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 It's alive!!! I hope to experience the same feeling by the end of summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 If I'm right, you don't know exactly why it would not start earlier...At least, there is a good progress!Your friend seems to be well organized in his garage. Better than me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 Thanks guys.Roger, I suspect either the old condenser or that I was off a bit with the distributor. It one of those two things. Once I got new parts in there it started. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 20, 2012 Author Share Posted May 20, 2012 (edited) Earlier when I was trying to start the engine I noticed some oil coming from the flywheel cover drain hole. I was wondering if just cranking generated that much oil, what would it be like once it runs? Well, there it is. The people at VCCA think it may be the plug at the rear of the oil gallery. It is small brass plug and sometimes it leaks. should have been checked by the rebuilder. I don't relish the job of removing the transmission, clutch, flywheel and bell housing to go fix that.Gave another coat of base color to the dash & garnish moldings. After much deliberation I decided to retain the shotgun dimples. Edited May 20, 2012 by Landman (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 Congrats on the running engine. It's always a thrill even when other issues come up. At least you know that it is something that can be remedied. In viewing the glove box door and the dashboard, it looks as though the glove box door may have been in the opened position when the dashboard got blasted, since there are no shotgun marks on it?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 Good eye Keiser,Actually, that glove box door is from New Zealand. I bought it on eBay. The Lord only knows where the original is. It may have been knocked off by the shotgun blast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Thanks guys.Roger, I suspect either the old condenser or that I was off a bit with the distributor. It one of those two things. Once I got new parts in there it started. A bad condenser would allow the engine to start, however, the points would not last a long time. Therefore, I assume that you were off with the distributor. It happens to me too, especially when I thought that the rotor is turning clockwise, upsetting the wiring between distributor cap and plugs!a check at the shop manual explained why the engine would not start...Regarding the oil your engine is loosing: after trying to repack 2 or 3 time the rear seal at one of my Cad engines, I was convinced that one plug was leaking. I removed the transmission to discover that all was dry and at the end I replaced the packing with rubber seals. Oh miracle, no leak any more...An Hydramatic transmission is certainly heavier that a manual gearbox; at your place, I would correct that leak. To have a nice car loosing fluid like a grand mother will disturb you, believe me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 If I'm right, you don't know exactly why it would not start earlier...At least, there is a good progress!Your friend seems to be well organized in his garage. Better than me!That's only part of it Roger. His collection of stuff is huge!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 We adjusted the valves today. The same friend with the '48 GMC came and helped me. He also refined my ignition adjustments. It now runs absolutely still at a steady 170 degrees. By the way Roger, we also confirmed why it wouldn't start. I used to set my distributor by centering a bead in the flywheel in the hole in the bell housing. Well guess what, there is another hole on the other side with a pointer in it. So I was always off with the distributor as I was looking in the wrong hole. :eek:And there is the leak. The 1934 crankshaft has an integral oil slinger which fits in a groove in the block and rear main bearing cap.First photo shows one of the old ones I removed. The one on the sawhorses is the one I installed. Looks like the NOS crankshaft I installed has no slinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Killerbunny Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Very inspiring, indeed!I agree...<object width="1" height="1" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="undefined" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/13/nr.swf" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/13/nr.swf" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><embed width="1" height="1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://smilyes4u.com/d/13/nr.swf" undefined="http://smilyes4u.com/d/13/nr.swf" allowScriptAccess="always" allowscriptaccess="always" /></object> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Today, went to work to forget I may have to pull my engine. Saw some interesting stuff:Not one but TWO 1955 Chrysler New Yorker St-Regis in the same spotSome strange looking cattleA 1960 Pontiac which is both a Laurentian and Strato-Chief. I assume the Strato-Chief donated a fender. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike brady Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Pat,Is that the buffalo farm in the French River area ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 No Mike,Those are near Matheson. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian_Greenlaw Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Dont know if it helps but I think they are Bison. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 23, 2012 Author Share Posted May 23, 2012 Hi Ian, you are right, that's what they are. We also call them buffaloes although a real buffalo doesn't look anything like that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 24, 2012 Author Share Posted May 24, 2012 Received the gauges yesterday. Installed them in the dash to see. I'm happy with the way they turned out.Re. the leak in post #378, I took the photos to the cruise night last night and we confirmed that the slinger is there. So no need to replace the crankshaft. Next suspect is the oil gallerey cap (the tube is also visible in the block photo in post #378). Before I start removing the transmission, I want to attempt looking in there with a borescope. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 25, 2012 Author Share Posted May 25, 2012 Turns out the borescope is $250 so I'll just go ahead and remove the transmission. Got as far as separating the u-joint. The yoke won't retract all the way into the torque tube. That is a corner I cut in post #77 that's coming back to haunt me.Instead of drilling out the dowel which holds the drivesaft bushing in place and replacing the old bushing with a new one and a new dowel, I followed someone's example and just inserted the new bushing in front of the old one. That's fine as long as you're not planning to remove the transmission. :mad::eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Received a few more goodies. Installed the door check rubbers on the links for safekeeping. Ditto with the dome light switch.Thought some of you would like to see the car in my avatar.Removed the transmission, clutch & flywheel. Used the jack a lot since these old shoulders can't handle the weight anymore. At least not at arms lenght.Turns out that oil is NOT coming from the plug at the end of the oil gallery. It IS coming from around the crankshaft. So before I go tearing the oil pan and the rear main cap off, I'm waiting for opinions. I doubt the rear oil pan gasket is the culprit since it comes from between those pans. I think if that was the case it would leak against the rear of the oil pan. :confused::mad::eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 28, 2012 Share Posted May 28, 2012 Probably you have a rope as a seal for the crankshaft. I have the same s..t on my old Cads. I tryied several time to seal them by removing the lower cap, pushing the packing located in the block, adding some material, without result. At the end, I bought rubber seals at Best Gaskets and installed them at 2 cars. Oh wonder, no leak anymore...I don't know if rubber seals are made for your engine; maybe some one from this forum may know. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 28, 2012 Author Share Posted May 28, 2012 Roger,Unfortunately no seal in a '34 Chevy. Just the slinger mentioned in posting #378. And of course the oil pan gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Oups Pat! Sorry about the slinger. Now, I see what you are speaking about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted May 30, 2012 Author Share Posted May 30, 2012 After a few hours of Honey-do I removed the two plates in front of the bell housing. That gave a clear view of the rear of the pan. Oil pan gasket is OK. It looks crooked but that is paint on the cork. We can see the oil between the rear main cap and the crankshaft flange. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted June 1, 2012 Author Share Posted June 1, 2012 May 31 AM: removed the oil pan. The leak is definitely not at the oil pan level. I had to disconnect one end of the tie rod and remove the second crossmember to drop the pan. Next, the rear main cap.May 31 PM: attended wake of a high school teacher of mine. It was a mini reunion with several of the "boys" there. Man they look old.Today: Attended the funeral in the morning. Saw more old faces. Came home and did a lot of grass cutting then received some bling. We have headlight buckets & bumpers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 Removed the main bearing cap and posted the photos in the VCCA mechanical forum where the folks have been following the search for the cause of the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted June 2, 2012 Share Posted June 2, 2012 On the picture # 2, it seems that the babbit is shorter than the cap. Is that an explanation about the massive leak? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 That is a good observation but it is actually flush. What we think the culprit is, is the ball i photo#4 which is supposed to be free in its enclosure. It appeared to be stuck in grease and may have been keeping the oil return hole closed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted June 2, 2012 Author Share Posted June 2, 2012 Roger, you put the seed of doubt in my mind. I checked, and yes, the bearing shell is recessed a bit. So I crawled under the car to look and the upper one is proud of the block by the same amount. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Roger, you put the seed of doubt in my mind. I checked, and yes, the bearing shell is recessed a bit. So I crawled under the car to look and the upper one is proud of the block by the same amount....which may create two channels adding too much oil at the back? What do say the VCCA people?On one of your pictures, there is like a spacer (or a gasket) on each side of the cap. As I have no experience at all with these older engine types, is that spacer factory or was it added to hide something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Killerbunny Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 Hmmm...a little bondo...a little paint...instant rat rod!So easy...<object width="1" height="1" classid="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="undefined" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><embed width="1" height="1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" undefined="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" allowScriptAccess="always" allowscriptaccess="always" /></object> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 Roger,What you are looking at is brass shims. They are used to obtain the clearance and are removed as wear occurs to retain the it. Please read again my post about the doubt. While you were correct obout the shell being shy of the cap, the other half is proud of the block(it sticks out) to mate with the bottom half. That is visible in the first picture.The VCCA guys are quite sure the culprit is the ball. It was stuck in grease and was shutting off the oil return hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted June 3, 2012 Share Posted June 3, 2012 What you are looking at is brass shims. They are used to obtain the clearance and are removed as wear occurs to retain the it. Please read again my post about the doubt. While you were correct obout the shell being shy of the cap, the other half is proud of the block(it sticks out) to mate with the bottom half. That is visible in the first picture.OK about the shims; as I wrote, I'm not familiar with older engines.Sorry, I did not understand "proud", but I do "it sticks out", so my previous message is not relevant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted June 3, 2012 Author Share Posted June 3, 2012 I understand, French is my first language too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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