Willys77 Posted February 8, 2012 Share Posted February 8, 2012 Are you approving the color "after hours" Pat? Hopefully, it will be a go and once you trundle her back home on the dolly ~ well then, the serious fun can begin!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 8, 2012 Author Share Posted February 8, 2012 I don't know about "after hours", but I am away for a few days. He was hoping to shoot it right away. Maybe by the weekend... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 12, 2012 Author Share Posted February 12, 2012 Dismantled, cleaned and reassembled the wiper motor. Tested it using a vacuum line in my truck. It seems to work only in one direction. I have a hiss in the on/off lever area. When I pull it the shaft goes about 1/4 turn and stops. When I push it back in, it goes back to where it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted February 13, 2012 Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ficken Wiper Service (a.k.a. Wiperman) has a good reputation.I was able to get a Korean war vintage repair kit from a local vintage Ford dealer that worked for my '33 Plymouth's Trico wiper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 13, 2012 Author Share Posted February 13, 2012 Ficken's told me the '34 Chevy units were almost always warped and more or less told me not to bother sending it in. I have a friend who is checking to see if other years will fit even if the '34 motor was a one year only. If it was that bad, I'll bet a lot of them were replaced. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 36chev Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 Here's a rebuilt 1934 (seller says 33-35) Chevrolet wiper motor on ebay. Says that it works--starting at $90. Would this be of interest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Thanks 36 Chev, that looks like a good one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Pat, I do find strange that even with 12 V the engine is not turning more quicly. I hope that your starter motor will not give up with the extra effort.Roger,It's starting to pick up a bit of speed. I suppose patience is of the essence here. Meanwhile I pick away at other things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaelod Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 (edited) Ficken's told me the '34 Chevy units were almost always warped and more or less told me not to bother sending it in. I have a friend who is checking to see if other years will fit even if the '34 motor was a one year only. If it was that bad, I'll bet a lot of them were replaced.I sent Ficken's the wiper motor from my '30 Buick and he told me the same thing without even opening it and returned it as is. I decided to ignore his assessment, rebuilt it myself and it now works perfectly. I really believe this is a stock answer he gives to everyone with an older wiper he does not want to work on. Unfortunately he bought out all the remaining supply of parts from Trico and will not sell anything outside of those units he personally rebuilds. The paddles in these are usually the most common part in them that fails, so you may need to get a bit creative in repairing yours. Use Vaseline as a lubricant as it is the closest to the original Trico grease. Regular axle grease is to heavy and will tend to retard the movement of the paddle. A new gasket can be created pretty easily with the judicious use of some silicone. There are a coupe of good sites on the internet with additional pictures and information related to rebuilding these vacuum wiper motors.Thanks, Edited February 14, 2012 by michaelod (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben Bruce aka First Born Posted February 14, 2012 Share Posted February 14, 2012 I believe Progoofoff, down on the Buick forums does a little work on wiper motors. Ben Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 I've ordered the one suggested by 36Chev above. Had to get a friend in the US to buy it since the seller won't ship to Canada. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 (edited) I sent Ficken's the wiper motor from my '30 Buick and he told me the same thing without even opening it and returned it as is. I decided to ignore his assessment, rebuilt it myself and it now works perfectly. I really believe this is a stock answer he gives to everyone with an older wiper he does not want to work on. I had the same experience many years ago with a '57 Cadillac Eldoorado Brougham wiper motor. They send it back with a little word that they have no spare part for that. Could be true, I don't know. I took it apart, redid the seal at the paddle with a similar product as original. Now, for about 20 years the motor run well, even if it's not like an electric one.We have to be a little bit creative when we are involved in older cars... Edited February 15, 2012 by Roger Zimmermann comment added (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest F1 Guy Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 Landman, In regards to the slow turning engine, I had the same problem with my 1953 Chevrolet Belair a few years ago. I rebuilt the engine, reinstalled it, and it was slow to turn over. As it turns out, the negative battery cable was not getting a good connection on the engine block due to paint. I cleaned up the paint on the block where the cable is attached. That made a big difference. Just a thought... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Yes that can happen. In my case it might be the booster cables I am using not passing enough juice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Picked up the body yesterday with painted firewall. The lighter photos are in bright sunlight and the paint appears blotchy rather than glossy so I put another one taken with a flash. The actual color is somewhere in between.Next is to find a few friends and organize a "lifting bee" to get her back on the frame. :cool: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 16, 2012 Share Posted February 16, 2012 It seems I like to ask stupid questions: why the whole firewall was not painted, say till the end of where the hood will rest? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 16, 2012 Author Share Posted February 16, 2012 Hi Roger,It's not a stupid question. We discussed it at lenght. I suggested he'd stop at the rear end of the identation , maybe in line with the hood lacing where the joint wouldn't be visible. He felt he 'd do as better transition at the edge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 17, 2012 Share Posted February 17, 2012 As a matter of fact, paint applied on the same plane but not at the same time can have a different aspect, especially with metallic paint (I don't know if your color is metallic). Considering this aspect, I understand the painter. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 18, 2012 Author Share Posted February 18, 2012 Got a bunch of guys together and lifted the body back on to the frame. Other than the grille shell/rad, things should go on instead of off from this point on.I also painted the grille ornament which comes unpainted. I think I'll have to airbrush the yellow as it did not go on very well with a brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 26, 2012 Author Share Posted February 26, 2012 After we got the body back on I played with shims at the body bolts to get the doors to fit, open and close as good as I could. The passenger door had always rubbed a bit at the bottom so I moved my shims forward and retightened everything. I gained a bit but now it rubbed at the top. So I took the door off, removed the header, shaved it down a bit and reinstalled it. Much better fit.Installed a temporary oil pressure gauge for when or if it starts. touched up the steeering column before reinstalling it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted February 29, 2012 Author Share Posted February 29, 2012 Both doors are now lined up properly. Played at making patterns for the quarter windows as they are slightly different from stock as a result of my heavy handed surgery. I started prepping the dash for woodgraining. I left the buckshot dimples in. That'll be stories to tell later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 Looking great! When will you take it in for paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 Next is to fill all my welds in the roof panels with All-Metal. Then I have a bunch of little touches I want to do with seam sealer, some serious masking of the exposed restored areas then it's going over. The trunk lid and running boards are already there. I have to reweld the gravel shields inside the rear fenders, do more work on the driver's side front fender . It'll get there eventually, no set date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 the all-metal you talk about, would that be used where i had to take out lead to weld in a rear panel? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 All Metal is a metal based filler which can be used where lead would normally be used. In this case I have valleys where I ground some welds and that is where I'll put it before putting a skim of filler on top.Here's alink to it: USC All-Metal Body Filler - TP Tools & Equipment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GARY F Posted March 1, 2012 Share Posted March 1, 2012 thanks, i'll give that a try instead of bondo to fill those seams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Spent half a day playing with the passenger side quarter window opening. The glass pattern didn't seem to want to set right. Turn out my surgery had left the mating surface on the inside of the body uneven. Undid the nails and pried, pulled and pushed until it was close. Ended up having to weld a few cracks and pinholes and replace a piece of wood. Moved the bottom center out at least 1/4". Also found the door latch striker wasn't quite parallel to the ground. Removed it, drilled out the screw hole, put in a dowel and re-drilled it properly. Door now closes fine.Also made some filler panels to bring the sills closer to the sheet metal so we can put some seam sealer there. The original sills must have come close to the sheet metal and they had been sealed with gobs of a tarlike substance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 10, 2012 Author Share Posted March 10, 2012 The rad looked like it had a leak, so I took it to be retested and had the neck turned at the same time so the cap would point in the right direction. Turned out it didn't leak.Cleaned up that neat petcock.Found the seat glider knob which had been original to the car. Cleaned it and installed it.Reinstalled the gravel shields inside the rear fenders. They had been removed when I sent the fenders to be reworked. Started stripping the primer I had put on to prevent flash rust. The painter said he'd strip them so it's waaaay cheaper if I do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 11, 2012 Share Posted March 11, 2012 I hope that you painted the radiator with the correct paint/thickness. Some paint will be too thick for the fins to cool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 11, 2012 Author Share Posted March 11, 2012 Yup. I painted the frame only. Thanks for the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 I am ready to send the headlights for rechroming. I have a set of NOS rflectors that look good to me. I'm looking for opinions here. Can I use them as is or should I get them resilvered? The one in the close up is the worst one. They appear of different colors but both are equally bright. The one has a few stains on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 Pat, I don't know the regulations you have in your country. In Switzerland, the car would not pass the state inspection with such reflectors. It's a pity that NOS parts are in that shape. However, considering the age and maybe where and how they were stored, it could happen, unfortunately. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ply33 Posted March 15, 2012 Share Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) I had my reflectors refurbished many, many years ago by Uvira and they are still in great shape. Actually it has probably been a couple of decades now. They put an aluminum reflective surface on then cover it with a thin layer of glass so they will never tarnish. Aluminum is not quite as good as silver when silver is clean and polished but it is a close second and is what is used on modern optical telescopes, etc.What ever you do, don't chrome them. Chrome is actually a lousy reflector for optical work.Uvira, Inc.310 Pleasant Valley Rd.Merlin, OR 97532Telephone: +1.541.956.6880Fax: +1.541.476.9096email: uvira@terragon.comp.s. You might try cleaning the tarnished reflector. If there is enough silver on the brass it could work out okay. Here are some cleaning instructions from a 1932 automotive trade magazine:Simply cleaning the reflector will often double, and sometimes TRIPLE, the efficiency of the headlamps. The reflectors are silver plated, and are very easily scratched. For this reason they should be very gently polished. It is possible to clean them satisfactorily with a mixture of alcohol and lampblack. The mixture is spread over the surface of the reflector with a soft cloth, and then wiped off with absorbent cotton after drying. The wiping should always be done from the center of the reflector to the edge, and never with a circular motion. Edited March 15, 2012 by ply33 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 15, 2012 Author Share Posted March 15, 2012 What about the old polish Silvo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandpa Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Landman,Try "Grasso" polish; it also works on silvered reflectors.Grandpa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandpa Posted March 16, 2012 Share Posted March 16, 2012 Landman,Sorry about the above typo (nothing gets better with age). Try "Brasso" metal polish.Grandpa Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 Grandpa,I have both Silvo & Brasso. I used the Silvo. It seems to have cleaned them up a bit. Since they are no big deal to change, I'll use those NOS ones for now. If they turn out too dim, I'll get a set resilvered during some winter layover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 19, 2012 Author Share Posted March 19, 2012 Nothing much to report. Still stripping body parts for the painter. Today the missus asked me to make a walnut frame for one of her wall hangings. It was beautiful out so I woke up the Mustang from its winter sleep and let her out into the sun. Roads are still too wet & dirty to go for a spin though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted March 21, 2012 Share Posted March 21, 2012 Can't wait to see the paint! How about sending me a picture or two of the walnut frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landman Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 Finished stripping the fenders. Massaged the one front fender that I had repaired myself. I wish I was Flop.Put together the locks for the locksmith. He will rekey them & remove the barrels so I can send them to the platers.Sorted & selected a pile of little parts to send to the platers. Removed the knobs off the window cranks. Ordered new ones along with a ton of other stuff. Today I seriously stressed the Visa.My guess is that there is probably $1200 of chrome in that second photo. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now