MarkV Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 Well, I got her home, the paint is good the vinyl top looks new and there are newer fluids, newer tires and radiator, I bought a new battery for it, Anyway, I got it for 700 bucks and the 89 year old man I got it from paid for the towing from his place to mine, which is about 50 miles! Anyway, it turns but will not turn on, It has been sitting for 6 months or so. I tried to prime the intake but, nothing happened, it just turns and turns till the battery dies. What could be the problem? I can tell it was babied, but, I have no idea why it isnt turning over? Anyone know? Oh, it has the Rolls Royce Caddy Grill and a sunroof all in excellent condition, the car was garaged! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Gary Hearn Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 (edited) You need fuel, fire and compression. Don't overthink it and be sure that you have each. A little more complex than a 60 year old car, but the same principle.If it gets the best of you, tow it to my place in Virginia and I will give you your $700 back. Edited October 4, 2009 by Gary Hearn (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest windjamer Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 First check for spark. I doubt its fuel as you primed it and no start. They had a hei, ign. Pull a plug wire and see if you have spark. Use a set of insulated plug wire pliers,HEI bites. It wont kill you but its not nice. If you have no spark,pull the cap and rotor and LOOK CLOSE at the grean and white wire. The magnitic pick up was famous for flexing and brakeing one of the wires. If you have spark pull a plug and check compression. LET US KNOW HOW YOU MAKE OUT. Maby Im wrong but it iratates the he** out of me when someone ask for help and then fales to say thanks. Where not looking for a medal, just comon courtesy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted October 4, 2009 Share Posted October 4, 2009 First thing to get is a factory service manual. The EFI system on these cars has a lot of potential failure modes, especially given the prehistoric nature of the analog computer system. Having said that, I also agree that it sounds like ignition. Note that the distributor on this car is unique to this application and has a special sensor below the main body that is used by the EFI system. On the other hand, it does use the normal HEI module, coil, etc. and these modules are prone to failure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Clark Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I'm a bit jealous as I think these are one of the sharpest cars ever. I needed one once and brought it home under its own power. You should be sure you have plenty of jack stands because this baby will spend sometime up on blocks. Its like flying a helicopter, two hours on the road and a few days in the hanger for maintainence. This not only has the most complicated wiring of any car I've dealt with, but it has what seems today like the worlds crudest fuel injection. It dumps fuel twice, once for 7, 2, 1, 8, then again for 4, 3, 6, 5. Make sure you have gas. I probably still have some spare axles somewhere but I'd rather not dredge up the pain and list the problems I had before I drove it under its own power down to the Salvation Army.Billex proud 77 Seville owner Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Talarico8447 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I agree, it sounds like spark. And yes it could be the ignition module. If you found out there is no spark make sure your rotor is turning when your canking, if not your timing chain broke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Well, I had it taken over to my friend's garage, I tried everything, it seems like there is a lack of gas getting into the system, but, we will find out... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 It is a beautiful car and definetly worth fixing Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest robb01 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 agreed, great looking car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 My friend got her running! It is a little rough and I need to get a new alternator, but, it is progressing, maybe it is the old gas in there? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Phillips Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 I've owned three of these, and their fuel and ignition systems are unique to this car. The shop manual is of very little help, as it calls for special diagnostic tools, meters, etc., that no longer exist, unless your local Cadillac dealer still has all of them from the late 1970s. I bought a beautiful, low-mileage 1977 model that was not running, and even the local mechanics could not figure it out--and most of them refused to even work on the car. Ended up selling it at a considerable loss, still not running.I learned an expensive lesson.Pete PhillipsSherman, Texas1948 Buick Roadmaster1949 Buick Super wagon1950 Buick Roadmaster1956 Studebaker Golden Hawk1959 Mercury Park Lane1959 Buick Electra1962 Buick Electra 2251963 Chrysler New Yorker1963 Buick Wildcat conv. 4-spd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THEHKP7M13 Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 ???? Doesn't this car share a platform with the Chevy Nova's of this era????....which leads me to: Secondly, I do recall years ago people doing Chevy small block/turbo 350 and/or 700r4 swaps into these. Once the Chevy powertain is in place you have Cadillac style with the simplicity and durability of the Chevy small block. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 ???? Doesn't this car share a platform with the Chevy Nova's of this era????....which leads me to: Secondly, I do recall years ago people doing Chevy small block/turbo 350 and/or 700r4 swaps into these. Once the Chevy powertain is in place you have Cadillac style with the simplicity and durability of the Chevy small block.While I am by no means a "pure stock" advocate (read the "butchered cars" thread), I will say that simply hitting any problem with the small block Chevy sledgehammer lacks, ah, finesse. First, the basic drivetrain of the first gen Seville is a 350 Olds with TH400 trans. Unless you REALLY wan the overdrive, you can't do much better than a TH400. This is as close to a bulletproof trans as any ever built. The 350 Olds is also pretty bulletproof. If you really, really don't want the challenge of getting the EFI to run properly, then simply pull the manifold and distributor, store them carefully, and bolt on a Quadrajet intake and HEI distributor. Those parts can be had for less than $100 total. The Qjet/HEI combo will run forever with near zero maintenance and it's a lot less expensive and a lot less intrusive than a boring SBC swap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 Hi 1948Lincoln:Adding a little more information: The EFI system on your Olds 350 is a Bendix multiport system. It was used in the '76 - '79 Sevilles. It preceeded (or overlaped) the widely used GM TBI (throttle body injection) which was controlled by an early (& primitive) digital computer. Actually, it was an analog computer. Keep in mind that the PC hadn't even been invented in 1976. This system predated the TBI system by about ten years!I don't think any other GM vehicles used the Bendix system. This is what will make fixing & maintaining it more difficult & expensive.Some of the Caddy full size cars used a similar system on the Caddy 425 motor at about the same time.From Wikipedia: The Cadillac Seville was introduced in 1977... Which once again demonstrates why you can't trust Wiki. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarlLaFong Posted October 7, 2009 Share Posted October 7, 2009 I had a 77 Seville that ran fine, but needed a top end job. I pulled the engine, rebuilt the heads and ended up re ringing it. I put the engine back in, drove it to the end of the block and back and it never ran again. I spent several years, on and off, trying to get it running again with no luck. Because I live in CA I couldn't slap on a Q-Jet and a new distributor because of smog check. I finally got disgusted and gave it to a friend. He junked it. If you continue to have problems, put a carb and HEI on it. They are nice cars. We loved ours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Got her running, replaced the battery, alternator, plugs, etc. it did not start because the ignition module was out. Changed the oil, etc. And I have been driving it all day, and I put in new gas, she runs smooth, just needs to warm up, and then off you go. Probably put on 50 miles today! I found a place that rebuilds the efi computers.... Also, I am into the car about $300 or so, in addition to the $700 for the car. I am blessed to have 2 excellent friends who work on the oldies, they are in their 80's, and they had this running within a day.. As I drive it it should get better, they told me. Oh, the brakes are perfect and it has good pick up and go. . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THEHKP7M13 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 While I am by no means a "pure stock" advocate (read the "butchered cars" thread), I will say that simply hitting any problem with the small block Chevy sledgehammer lacks, ah, finesse. First, the basic drivetrain of the first gen Seville is a 350 Olds with TH400 trans. Unless you REALLY wan the overdrive, you can't do much better than a TH400. This is as close to a bulletproof trans as any ever built. The 350 Olds is also pretty bulletproof. If you really, really don't want the challenge of getting the EFI to run properly, then simply pull the manifold and distributor, store them carefully, and bolt on a Quadrajet intake and HEI distributor. Those parts can be had for less than $100 total. The Qjet/HEI combo will run forever with near zero maintenance and it's a lot less expensive and a lot less intrusive than a boring SBC swap.I could totally live with that. Question though: What about the fuel pump for the carb? Is there just a block off plate in that spot on the engine?Got her running, replaced the battery, alternator, plugs, etc. it did not start because the ignition module was out. Changed the oil, etc. And I have been driving it all day, and I put in new gas, she runs smooth, just needs to warm up, and then off you go. Probably put on 50 miles today! I found a place that rebuilds the efi computers.... Also, I am into the car about $300 or so, in addition to the $700 for the car. I am blessed to have 2 excellent friends who work on the oldies, they are in their 80's, and they had this running within a day.. As I drive it it should get better, they told me. Oh, the brakes are perfect and it has good pick up and go. .Glad to hear it. Enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 Got the sunroof working today! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest windjamer Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 Good job 48 thanks for keeping us up to date. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 I could totally live with that. Question though: What about the fuel pump for the carb? Is there just a block off plate in that spot on the engine?Yes, though I do not know if there is an eccentric for a mechanical pump. If not, it is an easy task to bolt one on, although in this case "easy" would mean pulling the front cover from the motor. Of course, an aftermarket low pressure electric pump would also be an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 Got her smogged and registered, passed in flying colors! Driven it about 200 miles, so far so good! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 If you are driving it, does that mean you solved the Insurance problem? I hope you are not driving it without Insurance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THEHKP7M13 Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 Yes, though I do not know if there is an eccentric for a mechanical pump. If not, it is an easy task to bolt one on, although in this case "easy" would mean pulling the front cover from the motor. Of course, an aftermarket low pressure electric pump would also be an option.Not a bad idea. I guess all this is out the window since our freind lived in CA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 10, 2009 Author Share Posted October 10, 2009 You actually have 30 days to get insurance here in ca, but, yes, I put it on a regular policy for about 600 a year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Trunk Rack Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 SEVILLE OWNERSYou folks might want to distribute this info. to fellow SEVILLE fans ( sufferers..? ).There is a wrecking yard in So. Calif. that (as a rough guess on my part) has well over 100 Sevilles, many look to be in near mint "drive-away" condition, along with dozens of other post 1950 Cads. of various series. This yard is in the open desert. It is approx. about 20 miles EAST of Palmdale, Calif., on Calif. State Sign Route 138, or about 1 mile EAST of the fork where Calif. State Sign Route 18 and California State Sign Route 138 meet.I cant help with additional info - I live in northern Ariz., was just passing thru, and couldn't stop (wife was hungry). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rawja Posted October 10, 2009 Share Posted October 10, 2009 I'd love to find a good, reasonably-priced parts source for my '84 Elegante. No luck thus far..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkV Posted October 11, 2009 Author Share Posted October 11, 2009 Well where is it at? Also, I have a whiring sound in my speedometer, what could be causing this? The cable or the speedo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe_padavano Posted October 11, 2009 Share Posted October 11, 2009 Well where is it at? Also, I have a whiring sound in my speedometer, what could be causing this? The cable or the speedo?Usually it's the cable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest THEHKP7M13 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 Usually it's the cable.Could that just be re-lubed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rick60 Posted October 12, 2009 Share Posted October 12, 2009 To lube the speedometer cable disconnect the cable from the speedometer. Remove the inner cable be careful not to kink it. We used a silicone past at the dealer to lube the cable. I think it was called SYLGLIDE. Put a very light coating on the inner cable and work the lube into the wire coils of the cable. Reinstall the cable making sure that the square end of the cable is fully seated in the speedometer gear of the transmission. Before you connect the speedometer cable to the speedometer make sure there is no lube in the end of the cable housing. If there is excessive lube in the end of the housing it will be forced into the speedometer head when you install the cable. This will cause the speedometer to bind and be inaccurate. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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