Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Nile

  1. I also have a 90 16V and have recently spent some "quality time" with my fuse box. Hemi, as usual, is correct, it is #6.
  2. Regarding the play in the shifter - probably loose cables at the shifter or, more likely at the tranny. A clear indication of this would be if the shifter is difficult to engage either reverse or first. It is MUCH easier to tighten the cables on the tranny than at the shifter as the center console is quite time-consuming to remove. If one or both cables are loose it might take a couple of tries so you get the adjustment exactly right. Regarding the rattling noise - if you're lucky it's just a loose tor broken timing chain cover. Easy to check - large plastic piece on the passenger side of the engine.
  3. Thanks guys. I compete each year at the Carlisle Chrysler Nationals - next year it's July 10-12, with the Shootout Fri evening. The show is well-organized, clean, safe , and FUN. Entry into the Showfield includes a weekend pass for 2 people and, obviously, on-site parking, which is actually cheaper than just walking in and buying tickets.
  4. Here's the video link: https://vimeo.com/348486005
  5. Reaper - That would be great! Show the kids it's not a fluke.
  6. We had a full field of 20 competitors, most of whom were experienced drivers with vehicles set up for autocrossing. I managed to take 2nd place behind a very well driven Neon who clocked a 71.6 vs my 72.3. 3rd place was a gorgeous SRT Challenger Hemi with a best time of 74.1. The track was a little slick from the Dodge thrill rides, but it was consistent. Since the course was mainly right hand turns, my left front tire was getting warm, so I watered it down between runs. Top speed at the end of the back straight was almost 60. My 90 16V TC ran flawlessly. Being the only convertible, the only yellow car and by far the oldest driver all combined to put the crowd behind me, too. I had an absolute blast. Carlisle Events has a bunch of photos posted on their website and the 3 of us who "made the podium" are featured on their 2020 Chrysler Carlisle Nationals site. There is a nice video that we're trying to figure out how to upload. As soon as that's done I'll let everyone know.
  7. Got to Carlisle and Rich Lane was able to figure out a way to get power around the fuse box so I had brake lights for the Shootout. Good thing, too, as 18 out of 19 of my fellow competitors got to see them! Full report when we have photo/video links. Needless to say it was an incredibly satisfying event!
  8. Power seats, windows & locks work, as do all parking lights so circuit breaker #8 and fuse #5 are getting power. Nothing downstream of fuse #6 or fuse #7 works. I'm heading off to Carlisle tomorrow AM, so hopefully a few of us can put our heads together and either figure it out or work around it temporarily. I'll use my trailer so I won't have to go thru hitting the tail lights or flashers each time I stop to, avoid getting rear-ended.
  9. No reading at all. To make sure my meter was working I checked another TC with working brake lights and got a reading.
  10. Pulled the brake switch from my parts car - you're right, Hemi, it wasn't that bad a job. Connected it to the "quick-disconnect" and still no lights, so I checked with an ohm-meter and have no power to fuse #6.
  11. My brake lights, including the nerdlamp no longer work. They are not getting power. The fuses, grounds and bulbs are ok. The signals and tail lights work fine as does the cruise control, but not the interior lights. I assume the culprit is one, or even both, of the brake switches. I have a parts car so parts, theoretically, are not a problem. After eyeballing the switches I'd guess someone 1/3 my age might have a chance at removal & installation. Is there an easy way to replace the switches?
  12. I agree totally with everything Reaper said. Here are some random thoughts: Are your plugs not only the correct ones, but are they ok? It sounds like they've been through a lot in the last few months and could have been damaged, so it might be worth it to replace them before incurring the expense & aggravation of a head job. BTW, $2,000 sounds a bit steep. I bought a 16v engine with a bad head gasket and had the head rebuilt (2 bent valves) for $900 plus guides & seals which I got from Rick D. I've replaced the odo gears in 2 TC's and both turned out fine - which is somewhat remarkable given my mediocre mechanical skills. I've also redone 3 valve cover gaskets without incident, or leaks.
  13. Two additions: #202042 89 Yellow/Ginger/Black 16v runs fine and #203889 89 RC/Bordeaux/Black 16v runs fine
  14. Not sure if this contributed to your issues, but "modern" gas containing ethanol simply does not retain it's potency very long. Once I started running ethanol-free premium in my TC's their drivability improved. Also, ethanol attracts water - not good. Over the winter I use an enzyme-based additive, Startron, in my TC's and other old cars and mowers to keep the fuel fresh and water out. And like Hemi said - replace the filter.
  15. I'll trade you a NOS 16v head for the shift knob
  16. My experience is the same as ghosty's; here's an easy way to tell - wait till it's dark and look the car over, you may see a glow - which will be your culprit. I had a Generic Motors truck with a battery drain - drove me nuts for weeks until one night a noticed a slight glow between the passenger's visor and headliner - turned out the light for the vanity mirror stayed on.
  17. Might be connections for some kind of aftermarket stereo/CD. It's not unusual for people to remove the units, but leave the wiring before they sell a vehicle.
  18. When you see the stock blow off valve and the where it's located, it will be pretty obvious why you need that upgrade. The sound it makes when you let off the gas is great, too! The installation was straightforward and I took some extra time to clean under and around the battery tray.
  19. Rick's email is rick@rdiperformance.com. Last phone # I had for him is 561-523-4684. I've never driven an 8v car as all mine are the 16v's and oomph off the line is not a problem at all. It may be that the automatic trans saps some power so an 8v with Rick's updated SMEC and a 5 speed conversion might be an awesome package. I think there just might be someone active on this forum who's done that 5 speed conversion, too!
  20. I agree with Reaper. 2 bits of advice 1). Make sure the ownership documents are in order. 2). Bring a bunch of $50 bills with you and wave maybe $600 under the seller's nose.
  21. Not sure if this would even be a factor, but given the fragility of the TC's braking system, would these wheels allow for enough air flow to help forestall heat build -up?
  22. Jim - When I got my second TC I noticed a difference in the tool kits - why did one have a philips head screw driver while the other one had a flat blade? It took a while, but I did eventually figure out that the screwdriver shaft is reversible. I've also seen a variety of colored handles for the screwdrivers - not sure if there's one correct color or if all are ok. If you ever find a tool kit that has a "Sterlix" box that isn't squashed it might qualify for the Guiness Book of records.
  23. Getting back to gymowner's original query, there is a MUCH simpler way to improve performance. For a fraction of what the Biturbo swap would cost, just get Rick Diogo's SMEC upgrade. Even with my rudimentary mechanical skills I was able to do the complete installation in just over a hour. The gain for either the 8v or 16v engine is about 35hp, so for the latter you're looking at a minimum of 235hp. In the real world it feels like more. The effect on my 16v car was stunning, not only in the increase in power, but also in drivability and sound (with higher boost the turbo makes wonderful noises when you let off the power). Only a few of the Biturbo motors exceed that figure and given their low production, finding a good one might be difficult. Then there's installation - will it physically fit and how will it interface with the ancillary systems (cooling, electric, etc) and how will it mount. Another issue is the transmission - the Chrysler automatic of that era probably cannot handle the power; the Getrag can, but will it mate up to the Biturbo v-6? If not, what tranny do you use? If it's a different one, will it match up to the driveshafts? If not, what ones will you use and will torque steer now become an issue?
  24. Thanks guys. The car affected is my red TC which has the hardtop on. I agree that running the engine probably produced enough heat to correct the condition, but will check the door switches.
  25. Last week I took one of my TC's for a drive (90 16v, red/black/black) and parked it back in the barn - all was well. Yesterday I went into the barn and noticed the cars all had quite a bit of condensation. Today when I checked, the seat belt/door ajar chime was dinging away. The car doors and trunk were closed. So I got the keys and it cranked & fired normally. I latched the seat belt yet the dinging persisted. So I went to get a wrench to disconnect a battery cable and when I returned, you guessed it, no dinging. Rather than attribute this to Italian electrical serendipity and ignore it, I thought I'd ask the assembled brain trust, "any ideas?" I'm leaning toward the condensation causing an electrical gremlin, but that seems too easy.
  • Create New...