Nile

Brake accumulator, reservoir, etc; leather dash hood that is over the gauges & padded console top; headlights; soft top & motor pull down assembly; seats; trans computer; black plastic pieces that fit into the large moldings by the doors; floor mats; radio & CD player with cable. Except for the first item these are a cinch to remove. Obviously you want them to be in good condition.

Been thinking about this article for a while. A straightforward, upbeat article would not generate as much interest or readers so less ad revenue. I guess he thinks snarkiness sells. But, look at it this way - the title of the column is " You Must Buy, our daily look at the cars you really should be buying instead of that boring commuter sedan." It features a very nice photo of a TC, highlights it selling for a very strong price and mentions that the Chrysler TC by Maserati has a lot of loyal, loving owners. " These points may well be what most people learn from the article. What was that old cliche about there not being such a thing as bad publicity?

One of the tasks in reviving my triple black 16v TC was replacing the front brake hoses and calipers. Parts were readily available and the job seemed to go well, including the bleeding. Then I noticed a leak at the lower left hose connection. Tightened it up as much as I dared and still it leaked. So I checked back on our site and found a post from Reaper about the copper washers supplied with the calipers being too thin. That was the culprit. I installed thicker washers and no more leak. Parts guy said, "Oh yeah, that happens a lot". So Reaper - many thanks. That would not have occurred to me.

Absolutely one of my all-time favorites, and not just because of the Mopar connection. Question - I don't want to be a spoiler for anyone who hasn't seen the movie (if you haven't, make the effort to see it, just make sure you get the original, not the later, somewhat lame remake), but it looks to me like the back half of a 69 Camaro in a certain scene - what do you think?

For BOTH reasons (maturity & end result) you made the right call. If it was a regular WRX he would have known you were there. If it was an STI, maybe not even that. The AWD systems in those cars allow them to use all their power all the time making them very quick off the line. 50 years ago when maturity was not a factor I was waiting at a light in my 69 'cuda 340 when a white Challenger pulled up next to me. I was in the left lane and the road curved slightly to the left after the light. I knew I had two advantages, weight and geography. The light changed and we both nailed it. I took him off the line and into the curve. Just as I grabbed 2nd he blew by me. I looked over and saw 4 2 6 . It wasn't Kowalski.

Thanks for the reminder. They appeared ok so I didn't have their replacement on my immediate to-do list. Needless to say, fuel hoses are one item where "appearing ok" is not good enough. I'll get right on it. Hardtop had not been off the car in 14 years; turns out it is in very nice shape, dirty, but it cleaned up just fine. For a car that sat a while, some of the usual problem areas like brakes, power antenna and odometer work great, altho the leather has pulled back from the top of the gauge cluster, the portholes are a mess and the wiper arm bushings are toast.

The three most dreaded words in the car collector universe. For the last couple of years I've been trying without success to convince one of my friends to sell me his 90 triple black 16v Cali TC. Recently it became necessary for him to sell the car. He provided what turned out to be a very honest description of the car and it's readiness to be loaded onto my trailer - one or more flat tires, stuck brakes, ran when parked last July. All we needed to do was move the car about 15' so it could be maneuvered onto my trailer. Plan A - Put on a spare tire, but it somehow went flat between the time I put it in the truck the day before and got to the TC. No problem, proceed to . . . Plan B - I brought a couple of air tanks, but couldn't fill the tires because the TC valve stems are "inside" the wheel spokes and my air chuck was too large (yeah, I know I should have remembered that). . Plan C - Start the car, hope the brakes will come free and the car will move on one flat and three close to flat tires. Hey it's a TC, what could go wrong? Actually, nothing! It fired right up; after a couple of rocks back and forth the one brake that was stuck came loose and I backed the car to the rear of my trailer, from which point the winch took over. The drivetrain is fine and the brakes all work!

Thanks for your kind comment. Got 4th.

Hey Reaper. - I'm wondering if your shift cable connections are tight enough and/or adjusted properly as my Getrag handles my ham-handed high rev gear changes with aplomb. https://vimeo.com/440180904 and https://vimeo.com/440180182 . Another advantage of the 16v is the sound! - Nile

Reaper - I have no idea if this will help, but a few years back I bought a TC that had been started regularly, but not driven. The prior owner was very open about a brake problem and had replaced all the calipers, rotors, & pads. When I drove it, the engine & trans were sweet, but the brakes were horrible - the right front was dragging and was the ONLY one that worked, meaning a stab of the brake pedal produced a dramatic pull to the right and smoke from the brake. Turned out the LEFT front brake hose was plugged. Replacing that hose, which was an inexpensive and straightforward job solved the problem. I now had functioning 4 wheel brakes. Naturally I replaced the other side hose and bled the system. The brakes have been fine ever since. I hope your fix is similarly easy.

This little guy/gal is about 4-6 days old. He's got quite a bump on the head , but can walk normally. After 5 hours he & Mom reunited. Sure hope he makes it as we've got a lot of predators.

That same motor was used as a trunk closing motor in some full size GM sedans a few years back. If you can find one, it's an easy part to replace. There may be some posts providing more specifics.

I purchased American Racing AR919 16" wheels, 7" width with 225/50x16 tires and have been very pleased . The wheels have held up well and are easy to clean. They look very similar to the T8-2 wheels you showed. I also like the way the 16" wheels fill the wheel well. If you want 16" wheels remember to go with a slightly lower profile tire, say a 50 rather than 60,; that way the tire diameter will be about the same so you will not have clearance issues. Double check the diameter of any tires you are considering to make sure they're within a tenth of an inch or two of stock. Offset is also crucial, and as I recall, 30-40mm is an acceptable range. I know 7" wide rims will fit; wider ones might, but I'm not sure. I bought Bridgestone Potenza RE71-R's with a 200 UTAG (treadwear index) because they simply transform the car's handling and I run an occasional autocross. They cost about $136 apiece. There are a bunch of 200 UTAG tires, both cheaper and more expensive - all are excellent. The difference they make in everyday driving is amazing, but they do wear more quickly depending on your driving style. However, if you only drive about 3,000 miles a year and you purchase tires with a predicted tread life of 40,000 miles, you would probably need to replace them due to weather checking or dry rot well before the tread wore down, so longevity would not be much different. The 200's do not like cold weather so if you're going to be driving in freezing temps, don't get them. One last reminder - as good as Tire Rack is, they will probably wonder why you want mag wheels for a minivan (Chrysler T&C). They will have no data on whether or not any rims or tires will fit whatever a TC is , meaning you have to do all the homework. Also, ask them to throw in an extra wheel lock "key" as they can break. Good luck!

Given Hemi's comments, there is probably not a problem with your clutch, but since you've had the car for 7 seven years and it feels different, there is a problem somewhere. I'd check to make sure all the large hoses connected to the intercooler and turbo are tight, actually make that VERY tight. I experienced the same phenomenon (easily rev to redline, but feels down on power) on one of my 90 16v cars and found a loose hose clamp at the intercooler. I tightened the clamp and the car immediately felt the way it had previously until the problem reoccurred. Sure enough, the same clamp had come loose. I replaced that clamp, and all others, and the car has been fine since.

Had something very similar happen with my 90 16v car - the culprit was a loose cable at the transmission. It may take a couple of tries to get it adjusted exactly right. If the cable actually came off the trans it could very well be touching the exhaust which would cause the smell.

I also have a 90 16V and have recently spent some "quality time" with my fuse box. Hemi, as usual, is correct, it is #6.

Regarding the play in the shifter - probably loose cables at the shifter or, more likely at the tranny. A clear indication of this would be if the shifter is difficult to engage either reverse or first. It is MUCH easier to tighten the cables on the tranny than at the shifter as the center console is quite time-consuming to remove. If one or both cables are loose it might take a couple of tries so you get the adjustment exactly right. Regarding the rattling noise - if you're lucky it's just a loose tor broken timing chain cover. Easy to check - large plastic piece on the passenger side of the engine.

Thanks guys. I compete each year at the Carlisle Chrysler Nationals - next year it's July 10-12, with the Shootout Fri evening. The show is well-organized, clean, safe , and FUN. Entry into the Showfield includes a weekend pass for 2 people and, obviously, on-site parking, which is actually cheaper than just walking in and buying tickets.

Here's the video link: https://vimeo.com/348486005

Reaper - That would be great! Show the kids it's not a fluke.

We had a full field of 20 competitors, most of whom were experienced drivers with vehicles set up for autocrossing. I managed to take 2nd place behind a very well driven Neon who clocked a 71.6 vs my 72.3. 3rd place was a gorgeous SRT Challenger Hemi with a best time of 74.1. The track was a little slick from the Dodge thrill rides, but it was consistent. Since the course was mainly right hand turns, my left front tire was getting warm, so I watered it down between runs. Top speed at the end of the back straight was almost 60. My 90 16V TC ran flawlessly. Being the only convertible, the only yellow car and by far the oldest driver all combined to put the crowd behind me, too. I had an absolute blast. Carlisle Events has a bunch of photos posted on their website and the 3 of us who "made the podium" are featured on their 2020 Chrysler Carlisle Nationals site. There is a nice video that we're trying to figure out how to upload. As soon as that's done I'll let everyone know.

Got to Carlisle and Rich Lane was able to figure out a way to get power around the fuse box so I had brake lights for the Shootout. Good thing, too, as 18 out of 19 of my fellow competitors got to see them! Full report when we have photo/video links. Needless to say it was an incredibly satisfying event!

Power seats, windows & locks work, as do all parking lights so circuit breaker #8 and fuse #5 are getting power. Nothing downstream of fuse #6 or fuse #7 works. I'm heading off to Carlisle tomorrow AM, so hopefully a few of us can put our heads together and either figure it out or work around it temporarily. I'll use my trailer so I won't have to go thru hitting the tail lights or flashers each time I stop to, avoid getting rear-ended.

No reading at all. To make sure my meter was working I checked another TC with working brake lights and got a reading.

Pulled the brake switch from my parts car - you're right, Hemi, it wasn't that bad a job. Connected it to the "quick-disconnect" and still no lights, so I checked with an ohm-meter and have no power to fuse #6.