Garnet & Gold

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Congratulations. Do you want me to add it to the VIN Table?

Thanks bro.

I do know that when you flush the brake system, the front brakes will drain like traditional brakes on cars but the rear brakes have to have the ignition switch to the 'ON' position for them to drain. When the ignition is in the 'ON' position the teves system is activated.

My quick answer is that I got the door open. In an article in the TC America newsletter back in March of 2008 there was an article about a sagging door. The reason for the door sagging was that the coating on the door striker post is missing. There solution was to firmly lift the door up while pulling on the door handle. That solution was to simple and I did not learn about that solution until after I had gotten the door open. I will try this solution when I get a chance to go to my mechanics shop and try it on the TC there with the same problem. Now for my solution. I removed the upper leather pleated panel on the door. I then created a hole in the sheet of plastic, removing enough to put my hand into the inner door. I then removed the insulation and water barrier in the area in the picture as there is no metal internal frame. I had been playing with a spare door in the garage moving the rods and pulling the handles and watching what was moving at the latch. In the second picture there is a brass looking small bar that comes out of the latch mechanism. I pull the interior door handle and was able to push the brass bar up and at that point I was able to push the door open. What I then found is the third picture where there was no white ring of plastic around the striker post. I hope these solutions helps out should you have this problem. I would suggest checking your striker posts and if they look like they are deteriorating get new posts before the problem occurs.

Problem: Passenger door in 2 of my TC’s will not open. Today a friend called, and he has the same problem. He wanted an internal passenger door mechanism and I had bought one off eBay to fix one of my TC’s. Before I gave it to him, I thought I would label the 5 connections on the mechanism so he would know where to attach the rods. In doing that I played with the mechanism and it was not working correctly either. I played more with it and determined that the locking part that rotates against the bolt in the door jam and holds the door closed. It will not move because the plastic coating on the metal rotating latch has bubbled up and will not allow the rotating latch to return to it’s unlock position. I have attached pictures of the rotating plastic-coated latch and then a close up of the bubble of plastic that stops the latch from returning to the unlock position. Now that I now what the problem is in opening the door the question is how do I get to the internal mechanism? In the part I gave to my friend I told him to file off the plastic coating so that the latch could return to the unlock position. The problem is to remove the mechanism from the door, there are 3 torx bolts holding the mechanism in. Those bolts can only be accessed when the door is open as their heads are in the jam. So, the question is does anyone know of any way to open the door without major damage or by reaching in the door and forcing the plastic-coated latch to move to the open position? Before discovering the bubbled up plastic coating I tried sitting in the passenger seat, held the interior door opening handle and hit the door with my shoulder. No luck. Next I tried tying the interior door handle in the open position and had my wife hold the exterior handle in the open position and jammed a 6 foot long 2X4 into the inside of the door where the latch lives. Again no luck. Next I tried using my crow bar on the outside of the door where the latch lives and without bending the metal, I had no luck again. The pictures supplied are of the mechanism I purchased on eBay and I am assuming that all 4 vehicles have the same problem with their mechanism. Just remember when giving suggestions that he door will not open.

Roger, Can you provide us with a picture looking down the power steering tube. Thank You

Bro, I think the difference is the V6 versus the 2.2 in getting to the bolt. I even removed what appears to be an AC sensor and still all I could do was to get the socket on the bolt and no wrench. Even my flat wrenches that are hinged by the "socket", I had no room to keep the drive in place and rotate it. My 2.2's are at the shop and you don't have a V6 handy.

There is a good reason for the bolt not being in the power steering tube and that being you can't get to it. The picture shows the nut you want to replace. It has a 10MM head and attached from the fire wall side. The alternator has been removed for better visibility to the location. Yellow arrow points to the bolt connecting the tube to a bracket and you can also see the hole where the power steering attaches.

The wiring in the door has about 6-8 inches before it merges in with the harness in the door and the wires are pink and yellow. My guess would be that the wires fell down towards the bottom of the door. You may have to remove the door card or at lest part of it to get your hand inside to hold the silver back part from the back side as the front and back sides of this light snap together to be held in the door card.

John, I assume that you are going to replace with the LED. Do the one door and then power them up and take a picture with it back in the door and a picture of the original bulb for comparison. Keep us informed on how it looks. Thanks

Hi John, Both the trunk and reflective type lights in the doors are the festoon bulbs. To access the bulbs you need a small standard screw driver with a fine point. On the long side of the lens near the corners there are a total of 4 ears that hold the lens in place. Using the screw driver twist in the area described between the lens and its frame to get the ears to release from the frame it is in. Be careful not to break the frame in the doors as the ears for the frame (not the lens) have a tendency to break off. The plastic in the trunk light is different from the plastic used in the door lights and the trunk is more flexible. The base for the trunk light is attached to the car while the door lights are held in the door card by snapping together and if you remove the frame the lens go in you have to open up the door card the snap the 2 pieces back together. As you are probably aware they do make LED light as a replacement in the festoon shape. I am not knowledgeable with the working of the difference in the electrical aspects to know if the LED are a piece of cake for replacement or if a variable load switch needs to be replaced in the fuse box. Hopefully Mark can answer that one. Bob,

On the underneath side of your hood and in front of the drivers seat is the paint code for your car. If you google PPG paint stores in your area, they can mix up the paint based on the code. To the best of my recollection the cost was $13 for one pint.

I have added the fact that 206173 has been junked. My notes associated with these VIN's is to large to include with the material I put on this thread. Thanks for the opportunity to pass along the following information about the VIN Table I publish periodically. The VIN's listed are not all running vehicles. Some of them are VIN's I have found in a junkyard. I only list vehicles that I have seen for sale and the VIN is posted with the sale. If someone on this thread tells me their VIN I post it but I do not post VIN's without the owners permission or the fact that they have made the VIN public knowledge. I am not the original keeper of this list and it would be difficult to keep track of only operational vehicles.