Nile

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  1. I purchased American Racing AR919 16" wheels, 7" width with 225/50x16 tires and have been very pleased . The wheels have held up well and are easy to clean. They look very similar to the T8-2 wheels you showed. I also like the way the 16" wheels fill the wheel well. If you want 16" wheels remember to go with a slightly lower profile tire, say a 50 rather than 60,; that way the tire diameter will be about the same so you will not have clearance issues. Double check the diameter of any tires you are considering to make sure they're within a tenth of an inch or two of stock. Offset is also crucial, and as I recall, 30-40mm is an acceptable range. I know 7" wide rims will fit; wider ones might, but I'm not sure. I bought Bridgestone Potenza RE71-R's with a 200 UTAG (treadwear index) because they simply transform the car's handling and I run an occasional autocross. They cost about $136 apiece. There are a bunch of 200 UTAG tires, both cheaper and more expensive - all are excellent. The difference they make in everyday driving is amazing, but they do wear more quickly depending on your driving style. However, if you only drive about 3,000 miles a year and you purchase tires with a predicted tread life of 40,000 miles, you would probably need to replace them due to weather checking or dry rot well before the tread wore down, so longevity would not be much different. The 200's do not like cold weather so if you're going to be driving in freezing temps, don't get them. One last reminder - as good as Tire Rack is, they will probably wonder why you want mag wheels for a minivan (Chrysler T&C). They will have no data on whether or not any rims or tires will fit whatever a TC is , meaning you have to do all the homework. Also, ask them to throw in an extra wheel lock "key" as they can break. Good luck!
  2. Given Hemi's comments, there is probably not a problem with your clutch, but since you've had the car for 7 seven years and it feels different, there is a problem somewhere. I'd check to make sure all the large hoses connected to the intercooler and turbo are tight, actually make that VERY tight. I experienced the same phenomenon (easily rev to redline, but feels down on power) on one of my 90 16v cars and found a loose hose clamp at the intercooler. I tightened the clamp and the car immediately felt the way it had previously until the problem reoccurred. Sure enough, the same clamp had come loose. I replaced that clamp, and all others, and the car has been fine since.
  3. Had something very similar happen with my 90 16v car - the culprit was a loose cable at the transmission. It may take a couple of tries to get it adjusted exactly right. If the cable actually came off the trans it could very well be touching the exhaust which would cause the smell.
  4. I also have a 90 16V and have recently spent some "quality time" with my fuse box. Hemi, as usual, is correct, it is #6.
  5. Regarding the play in the shifter - probably loose cables at the shifter or, more likely at the tranny. A clear indication of this would be if the shifter is difficult to engage either reverse or first. It is MUCH easier to tighten the cables on the tranny than at the shifter as the center console is quite time-consuming to remove. If one or both cables are loose it might take a couple of tries so you get the adjustment exactly right. Regarding the rattling noise - if you're lucky it's just a loose tor broken timing chain cover. Easy to check - large plastic piece on the passenger side of the engine.
  6. Thanks guys. I compete each year at the Carlisle Chrysler Nationals - next year it's July 10-12, with the Shootout Fri evening. The show is well-organized, clean, safe , and FUN. Entry into the Showfield includes a weekend pass for 2 people and, obviously, on-site parking, which is actually cheaper than just walking in and buying tickets.
  7. Here's the video link: https://vimeo.com/348486005
  8. Reaper - That would be great! Show the kids it's not a fluke.
  9. We had a full field of 20 competitors, most of whom were experienced drivers with vehicles set up for autocrossing. I managed to take 2nd place behind a very well driven Neon who clocked a 71.6 vs my 72.3. 3rd place was a gorgeous SRT Challenger Hemi with a best time of 74.1. The track was a little slick from the Dodge thrill rides, but it was consistent. Since the course was mainly right hand turns, my left front tire was getting warm, so I watered it down between runs. Top speed at the end of the back straight was almost 60. My 90 16V TC ran flawlessly. Being the only convertible, the only yellow car and by far the oldest driver all combined to put the crowd behind me, too. I had an absolute blast. Carlisle Events has a bunch of photos posted on their website and the 3 of us who "made the podium" are featured on their 2020 Chrysler Carlisle Nationals site. There is a nice video that we're trying to figure out how to upload. As soon as that's done I'll let everyone know.
  10. Got to Carlisle and Rich Lane was able to figure out a way to get power around the fuse box so I had brake lights for the Shootout. Good thing, too, as 18 out of 19 of my fellow competitors got to see them! Full report when we have photo/video links. Needless to say it was an incredibly satisfying event!
  11. Power seats, windows & locks work, as do all parking lights so circuit breaker #8 and fuse #5 are getting power. Nothing downstream of fuse #6 or fuse #7 works. I'm heading off to Carlisle tomorrow AM, so hopefully a few of us can put our heads together and either figure it out or work around it temporarily. I'll use my trailer so I won't have to go thru hitting the tail lights or flashers each time I stop to, avoid getting rear-ended.
  12. No reading at all. To make sure my meter was working I checked another TC with working brake lights and got a reading.
  13. Pulled the brake switch from my parts car - you're right, Hemi, it wasn't that bad a job. Connected it to the "quick-disconnect" and still no lights, so I checked with an ohm-meter and have no power to fuse #6.
  14. My brake lights, including the nerdlamp no longer work. They are not getting power. The fuses, grounds and bulbs are ok. The signals and tail lights work fine as does the cruise control, but not the interior lights. I assume the culprit is one, or even both, of the brake switches. I have a parts car so parts, theoretically, are not a problem. After eyeballing the switches I'd guess someone 1/3 my age might have a chance at removal & installation. Is there an easy way to replace the switches?
  15. I agree totally with everything Reaper said. Here are some random thoughts: Are your plugs not only the correct ones, but are they ok? It sounds like they've been through a lot in the last few months and could have been damaged, so it might be worth it to replace them before incurring the expense & aggravation of a head job. BTW, $2,000 sounds a bit steep. I bought a 16v engine with a bad head gasket and had the head rebuilt (2 bent valves) for $900 plus guides & seals which I got from Rick D. I've replaced the odo gears in 2 TC's and both turned out fine - which is somewhat remarkable given my mediocre mechanical skills. I've also redone 3 valve cover gaskets without incident, or leaks.