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Everything posted by Nile

  1. It can be difficult to reach the valve stems in the original wheels. Any time you have a tire mounted make sure the valve stems are long enough so you can reach them with a normal air chuck, but not so long they stick so far they get damaged.
  2. Recent discussions on our forum and an April Car & Driver column entitled "Educated Guess" which was anything but that, really got me thinking about our cars going forward. The columnist was urging Stellantis to drop the Chrysler brand, one of his reasons being that they might import some PSA models as Chryslers. He said "Done wrong, that could mean badge engineering of the Chrysler TC by Maserati sort." Where to start? First the TC is about as far from being "badge engineered" as any car can be. It may share a platform with some other Mopars, but it does not have a rebadged partner vehicle like say the Volare/Aspen or Celebrity/6000/Century/Ciera. Second, if mere platform sharing is your criteria for badge engineering then just about EVERY current Toyota fits the description. It just seems too many people take gratuitous shots at the TC. Why? When new, there were some justifiable criticisms: 1). It was too expensive - okay, guilty as charged, but how is that a problem 30 years later? Seems to me , if anything, it's a plus! 2). Too many parts shared with Chrysler & GM vehicles - again, 30 years later, that's a plus. 3). Too many parts are one-off and hard to find (so what's the problem -parts are too common or too rare?) - I have not had any problems finding parts for my 16V cars as there are quite a few vendors, many of them on this forum who keep us supplied. 4). Poor quality control - again that may have been true 30 years ago, but a lot of that related to the automatic transaxles and the Teves brakes which have either been sorted out or have decent work-arounds. If you want a stylish, comfortable and, yes, reliable, convertible that won't break the bank and will appreciate in value, what are your options? If you want a modern, comfortable convertible what better option is there than a TC?
  3. Thanks - wish we were about 300 miles closer! A lot of my experience with buying & selling has been learned the hard way. I guess the best bit of advice is not to look at what sellers say, look at what they don't.
  4. Plumbinguy - looks like you got a real keeper there -nice purchase! The white 16v currently on EBay looks like a dealer car. Odometer issue, no pics or mention of soft top, no pics of undercarriage so can't tell about leaks. Interesting choice of words on the brake system. Still, this car "vibrates" better than the black one, even though it's not that ideal color combo. The cars&bids car did seem to go too cheap - not sure if there was an issue with the car or just the wrong venue. At any rate, never, never sell without a reserve.
  5. Another plus would be better air flow around the brakes.
  6. There's a competing site to BringATrailer called Cars&Bids. I don't know anything about them, but was looking over their site and they seem to have a lot of unusual, low production vehicles from the 80's & 90's, especially European.
  7. Hey Rick - Thanks to you, too. Probably the best reaction I got was at a track day at Watkins Glen. A young guy in a 318 who couldn't keep up wanted to know "When did they put a V8 in a LeBaron?" I thought for a few seconds about all the things I could say and then said "1989".
  8. Looks like a good buy if the car checks out. Typical concerns - odometer - no change in 20 years and ABS issue. No mention or pic of the soft top. Are there any oil leaks? Might be a flipper.
  9. Not sure which TC you have - if it's a 16v car the Getrag can handle any extra power with no problem. If you've got an 8v or a v6 - I'm not sure about the AT being able to cope, but there are many knowledgeable folks on this forum who will know. I would also be wary about making a change just in the boost without commensurate adjustments to ignition timing and advance, air/fuel ratios, etc. At the very least you might be confusing the heck out of your engine controller. Will the engine now run hotter, will you need different plugs, how about premium fuel? I installed Rick D's performance upgrade package in one of my 16v cars and after a few years I am still thrilled with the changes - a lot more power, better drivability and great sound, especially when you let off the gas or shift. It was an easy install, too.
  10. I agree. A big question, "Is the vehicle titled in your name?" If he has an open title, meaning a previous owner signed the title and the car has not been reregistered in a while, that could be a huge problem when you go to register it in your state. For example, in New York, you need specific documentation from the owner (name on the title) to you, which is not possible if the title is open. You might want to check with your local Dept of Motor Vehicles to make sure. The car looks nice, and may or may not be ok, but the paperwork could be an issue.
  11. I happened to see an 87 Monte Carlo LS the other day, and being the kind of person I am, my reaction wasn't "Neat old Chevy", it was "Those headlights might fit a TC". I did a little research and the 1986-88 LS (not SS) Monte Carlo headlights look like they might be workable. Has anyone ever checked them out?
  12. Car looks great - were I in the market for a third yellow 16v car, we'd be talking. Over the years I've found that minor, but obvious details can matter a lot. With that in mind I think adding the fender badges, installing correct plug wires and losing the "Maserati" script on the trunk would increase your chance of selling the car, particularly to a non-TC person. It's the right time of year to be selling a convertible and the TC is on a lot of folks' radar as a "future collectible". I really think you'll get your price, or very close to it.
  13. Only thing I can think of is mileage - a lot of the vehicles BaT sells have real or even unreal low mileage. I think the TC they sold in August had very low mileage, but an odometer issue, which is normal for a TC and was sold "true mileage unknown". From the standpoint of someone who likes to actually use his toys, I'd much rather buy a 30 year old car that has been driven a couple of thousand miles a year than one that has sat idle most of the time.
  14. If BaT will "accept" your car, which they should, you could crack 5 figures. EBay can be a real ordeal. I think our TC's are finally starting to move up in value, especially the 16v cars, so you could justify keeping it as an investment. As far as what it's worth I agree that less than $8,000 would be close to fire sale territory. You never know what this post will stir up, as a club member might be interested. I'd say a fair price would be in the $9,000-$10,000 range. - Nile
  15. Since it's not April 1st, I'll go for it. I'll buy a set for the $25 plus shipping. Cheapest way is fine. My zip is 14870. Send me a pm so we can arrange $ and shipping. Thanks Marty - Nile
  16. I agree with everything above and use Mobil 1 in all my 16v TCs except one. For some reason, I'm assuming better lubricity, my 89 oozes Mobil 1, but if I use the same viscosity regular oil it does not leak. At least it wasn't as bad as a buddy who switched his new Subaru to a 0 weight synthetic - had quite the puddle on the garage floor the next morning.
  17. Currently on Copart is this TC which actually looks worse than the pink one.
  18. I noticed your car had the hard top on. For whatever it's worth - on all of my TC's the hardtops leak and the soft tops do not. I don't know whether that's due to a design or manufacturing flaw (that the hard tops leak, not that the soft tops don't). The soft tops are easy to adjust which may help the situation. Now if I could only adjust the soft top on my S200 I wouldn't have to have a rag handy!
  19. That "winning" bid doesn't vibrate right to me. No one who's into TC's would bid that much for that car given the color, miles, wheels, seats, etc. I also doubt someone not into TC's would open an Ebay auction that high on that car. It's located in Montana and it's winter. Lots of times people have a buddy open bidding on a "No Reserve" auction to get other bidders into the bidding process. They can claim it's sold, but it really isn't. I bet we'll see it again.
  20. I looked all over when I replaced mine and never did find specs for the 16v engine cover nuts. The 8v engine calls for 105 inch pounds which would be about 8-9 foot pounds. I used that and it's worked out ok.
  21. My favorite is the "California Car Cover". They're custom made for each car so they fit perfectly, even have "ears" for the mirrors. They're gathered on the bottom which keeps them on if it gets breezy. That's the good news; the bad news is they're pricey - over $100 depending on options & shipping.
  22. That was my first guess, but it moves freely. I can manually put the needle at zero and it simply goes up and up.
  23. The odometer in one of my TC's quit, so I installed new gears and it worked fine, however the tach needle only went up - sort of like an old school tell-tale tach. Naturally I ran the engine thru the upper ranges of the lower gears, convincing myself that this might somehow reset the tach, but the needle just stayed at redline. It would not go back down to zero. I put in another cluster and the odo , tach and all other gauges worked great. Any ideas?
  24. I bet that 273 turned a lot of heads, no pun intended. If I remember correctly the Mopar small blocks of that era had a higher nickel content which led to greater strength than other V-8's. I realize the aftermarket has embraced the LS3, and they certainly are cheap enough, but I'm just not impressed with their durability. Two of my friends have done the LS3 conversion with their RX-7's and they do run well, when they run.
  25. I agree - sure sounds like a bad speed sensor. Usually when they go the tach acts just as weirdly as the speedo. It's a cheap part, but is not the easiest thing to get at.
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