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Everything posted by Nile

  1. Every year the Watkins Glen race track has an "opening day" event where you can drive your street car in a semi-controlled environment for 3 laps for a $25 charitable donation. This year I took the TC and while the engine and brakes performed as admirably as expected, I was pleasantly surprised by the handling. Despite the numb steering, the TC would take a nice set entering a corner and not fall all over itself as I applied the power coming out (Note: my TC:p has new struts, bushings & cv joints). I had a blast. Picture at Tracktime Photos. - Nile
  2. Coincidentally, I did the front brakes on my 90 TC today. There's an easy way to loosen those two 18mm bolts that get so tight due to all the heat cycles. Naturally you've got the car on jack stands and are wearing gloves & safety glasses. Presoak the bolts with PB Blaster (much better than WD40) and put a sturdy socket with breaker bar on a bolt. Make sure the bar is free from obstruction and is about 5-10" off the ground. Slide you floor jack under the end of the breaker bar, and raise the jack until it engages it with the breaker bar and won't slip off. Obviously, make sure that raising the jack will cause the bar to loosen the bolt, then just pump the jack up . . . and . . .viola! Nile 89TC 16v y/g/b, 90TC 16v y/g/t, 69 'cuda 340 multiple state autocross champ, 91 MR2 defending autocross PAX champ, 69 cuda convertible, 04 G35x, 00 Silverado.
  3. David - As the original owner of a 69 'cuda 340 (same body style as 67) and 3 16v TCs I can tell you that the 'cuda easily outperforms the TC in all areas except braking. The TC is easier to drive, rides better and is much quieter. I have no idea if my 'cuda has any rattles because the engine, exhaust, tire and wind noise make even loud conversation impossible. Regarding originality, the 340 was not available until 1968 - 67 Formula S cudas had either a 273 or 383. The only ways to tell are by examining the data plate or even better, the build sheet. For example, on the data plate look at the second # in from the left on the bottom line: 32=273, 62=383; anything else and the car could not have been a Formula S. Good Luck - Nile
  4. I've got a black leather console lid that is in excellent condition on the outside, but has some wear on the non-leather part underneath. I'll sell it for $160.00 including shipping. - Nile (607-962-1001 or emanaton@aol.com)
  5. Thanks for the advice. Since this would be a one time only deal I don't want to spend or change a whole lot. I was figuring on an alignment to get the negative camber, but hadn't thought about the wheel spacers - neat idea! Since this is just an autocross with more back and forth, as opposed to steady state cornering, I think I'll be ok with the oil delivery. Some of the hot Neon pilots actually run with less oil to prevent frothing, but I can't quite get myself to try that. - Nile
  6. Earlier today I clinched my autocross class for the year in my MR2, and have a nice lead for the overall driver's championship. I won't know until the results are posted, but if I've clinched that, too, I'm thinking of running my 16v TC at the last event. In 40+ years of this, I've never run a front driver (my 3 state championships were all in my now retired 69 'cuda). So, has anyone out there run a solo, autocross, gymkhana, etc in a TC? Any advice on tire pressures, etc (The TC has regular, not R compound, Comp TAs)? Also, how do I disable the ABS so I can trail brake? The event will be very high speed (60-70 mph slaloms, then there's the straight) I know the TC won't accelerate as well as the 'cuda which has a big power advantage and weighs a lot less, but will out accelerate the MR2, which makes up for its lack of power with slot-car like handling. The BMW's that dominate the class I'd have to run in with the TC are about 2-3 sec slower per minute than my MR2. Any advice would be appreciated. - Nile
  7. I'm trying to remove the gauge cluster cover so I can straighten the leather. The 4 screws came right out, but the headlight switch is another matter. I found a white plastic button on the right side of the switch assembly and have tried pushing it in every direction, but no luck. Any advice? - Nile
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