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Nile

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Everything posted by Nile

  1. There are some expert mechanics on this forum - I am not one of them, so if any of them disagree with this - go with their opinions, not mine. Sounds like a vacuum leak. I know you checked them all, but our cars certainly have enough "opportunities" for vacuum leaks and yours has sat for a while, so who knows? Regarding the synthetic oil: I switched one of my 16v cars over to synthetic and was very pleased with the results so I switched another over. That didn't work out so well as I immediately had some serious seepage in multiple places. If that happens to you, you'll know right away. I switched back to conventional oil and the floor under the car is dry again. Car #1 has never had any seepage.
  2. Degerb - I recently had the same issue with my 90 16v. The problem was the switch. Luckily, I had a spare, because the local auto parts stores all had switches they said were correct, but didn't look like mine (threads were too short) and didn't work. By the way, loosening the switch from the tranny was a BEAR! It was easy enough to get at, but required a pipe over the breaker bar to get sufficient leverage. My advice would be to take your old switch out and bring it with you to any parts stores to make sure the new one matches yours EXACTLY, because they are sometimes reluctant to take back electrical parts. Another option might be Rock Auto, but again, I'd want to make sure the replacement was an exact match.
  3. I'm interested and have a couple questions. What is the condition of the trans (how does it shift, any leaks, odd noises, etc)? Will you sell just the trans or is this a package deal? Is this "local pick-up only or can you ship (and where are you located)? Thanks - Nile
  4. My tranny behaved the same with the engine on or off prior to the fix. The adjustment was just trial & error and no special tools were needed. When I read your first post I figured it was the clutch, but as you progressed thru different attempted fixes, I thought I'd share my experience. I agree that a cable adjustment shouldn't, in theory, be affected by whether or not the engine is running, but it's a free, relatively easy process when you consider the alternatives.
  5. I've got a 16V 90TC and had a similar issue a couple of years ago when the shift action became progressively worse. The problem was that the bolt holding the crossover cable to the transmission had loosened. The fix wasn't as simple as just tightening the bolt, because the cable had to be adjusted, and that took a couple of tries. Once we got that adjustment right, the transmission shifted perfectly. It might be worthwhile to try different settings at the transmission connections, esp for the crossover cable. A friend and a lift make this a lot easier. By the way, I'm assuming you have checked the tightness and adjustment of the cables at the shifter. Good luck. - Nile
  6. You've probably checked this already, but the large hoses that run between the turbo, intercooler and air box need to be very tight. When one loosens, the car behaves exactly the way you've described. While most of these connections are readily visible, the one at the bottom of the intercooler is difficult to see and just might be your problem.
  7. I had the same situation with my 90 16v car and assumed it was the bushings in the console, but everything there was fine. Turns out one of the cables was loose at the transmission. All I had to do was tighten it and it's been fine for over a year.
  8. Please don't criticize it until you've tried it. I have a couple of track cars and am not claiming the TC is in that category, just that the car is much more enjoyable to drive on the street with those tires.
  9. And now for a totally off the wall opinion. I am a fanatic about tires, after all, everything we ask our cars to do is transmitted to the road thru the tires. I don't put a lot of miles on my TC's and don't use them in the winter, so my tires will succumb to weather checking long before the tread wears out, so why buy a 40,000 mile tire when I'll never come close to that mileage? If you're putting 10,000 miles a year on your TC the following suggestion is not for you. Try a set of ultra high performance summer tires (200 wear rating) which are available as 205/50x15's. Many different brands are on the market, prices range around $110 - $125. I know, they won't last as long, which for me is a non-issue, and the profile is lower so my speedometer reads high, but the car is simply transformed - you can not believe the difference in steering feel, turn-in and grip, and they do not squeal.
  10. Many years ago I was road racing a 'cuda with a lightly modified 340. After a few laps it would start running hot (don't ask about the brakes, or lack thereof). Some genius suggested removing the thermostat, which we tried - and at first the car ran cooler, but then much hotter. Finally we drilled a small hole in the thermostat - problem solved.
  11. Re the battery drain - same thing happened to me. It was the light staying on in the spare tire compartment behind the seats. Best way to check is to pull the bulb and see if the problem goes away. Good Luck - Nile
  12. There is a locking ring which seats up against the knob to hold it in place on the shaft. Using a large curved jaw vise grip pliers, lock onto this ring, being very careful not to gouge the shift knob. Twist the pliers to loosen the ring (as I recall you need to twist clockwise if you are looking down from on top of the shifter) which will take the pressure off of the knob. Unscrew the knob. You might be able to do this with a channel lock pliers, but you would have to be especially careful you don't slip because it is easy to damage the knob.
  13. Speaking of spiders - went to look at a TC a couple of years ago. I opened the hood and saw a bunch of black widow spiders occupying the engine compartment. Since bee stings cause me problems, I hate to think what these guys would do to me so I passed on the car.
  14. Yes - disconnect the electrical connector FIRST, then the bulb will twist out easily. Install the new bulb, then reconnect.
  15. A few years ago this happened to me. I learned the hard way that it is absolutely crucial to flip the header latches (the 2 hooks that hold the top to the windshield header) back to the "closed" position before pushing the tonneau down onto the folded top.
  16. Did the air bag deploy? If so, you may have some other serious issues to deal with, and not just mechanically, but also in terms of state inspections, etc. With so many seemingly nice TC's available in the $3,000 range, you might want to look further (of course this is from someone who bought a Corvette that was in Ocean City, N J in late October of 2012).
  17. I had a similar issue - turned out to be the bulb in the spare tire compartment as the lid didn't always close completely. I realize this doesn't solve the actual problem, but if you aren't going to use the car for a couple of days, just disconnect the torpedo shaped connector by the battery, then reconnect before use.
  18. He was the first one we called - no luck. Any other ideas?
  19. On Friday at the Chryslers at Carlisle show, I just couldn't help myself and made a bunch of runs on the autocross course, winning the 10 car fwd class. The TC ran great and I was thrilled with all aspects of its performance, even trailbraking. After getting home I used the car a few times with no problem, then a trans seal let go rather abruptly, emptying the trans oil into the clutch. I caught it fairly quickly, so I hope there's no internal damage, but finding parts has proven difficult if not impossible. Fortunately I have a spare trans to bolt in, but I'd like to get my original redone and I also would like to replace the clutch disc, pressure plate, etc. Any parts advice would be very much appreciated. And yeah, I'd run it again, just as hard.
  20. I've made some bids on parts I can use. I'm hoping that if I win more than one you'll combine shipping? Thanks - Nile Heermans
  21. I've been to every Chrysler show at Carlisle and will be bringing my 90 Yellow/Ginger/Tan 16v TC. This show is a wonderful experience. I have a spare tool kit which I'd be willing to sell at a fair price to a club member. It's complete and in decent condition.
  22. Lou Z clued me into an easy way to remove the headlight switch. Get a long, heavy needle, small awl, ice pick or similar tool and bend the tip around so it's past perpendicular. Then just pull out on the switch (which turns the lights on) and run your custom tool up one of the 3 sides of the shaft until you feel contact, then pull. If you've gotten the correct side, the knob will easily come off. If not, just repeat with another side until you get it. Remember to push the shaft back in so the lights extinguish.
  23. I had the same situation with my TC and the problem turned out to be what Bob suggested - corrosion built up on the pistons in the calipers. Although I'm not a mechanic I went down to the local parts store, bought decent quality calipers, pads & rotors, then followed the instructions in the FSM very carefully and have had perfectly functioning brakes ever since. - Nile
  24. The BMW driver was taking early apexes so I could get on the gas a lot earlier than he could and then motor away from him coming out of the turns. After our laps I noticed he was looking at my TC with an odd expression, probably trying to figure out how someone snuck a 318 into a LeBaron convertible. - Nile
  25. Are the TII radiator, intercooler & hoses from a 90 16v TC? Will you be coming to Carlisle? - Nile 607-962-1001
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