Ronnie

Here is some good information including the codes and colors.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Squire Tom</div><div class="ubbcode-body">searched on the reatta shop manual site , did not find reference to iac. anyone know which section refers to it ? car is running fine , but i guess i cannot leave well enough alone after reading the above post. where is iac located ? thanx </div></div> You might find the information found here helpful.

Captain Roger, I agree with CHAS1 when he said "The moderator is the Captain of this ship!". You are doing a great job of guiding us when the ocean starts to get a little rough. Keep up the good work. I apologize for any ripples that I cause from time to time on a normally calm sea.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mc_Reatta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">He needs to list it in the Knoxville, TN edition of Craig's List. Would probably start a bidding war at the frat houses. </div></div> Below is a photo of someone who would agree. He appears to be ready to fight that war.

If they don't sell here, add them to the "for sale" section of my website at the link below.

Don't overlook the obvious. What normally causes the "Cruise Control Disengaged" message to come display? Tapping the brake pedal. I would check the switch on the brake pedal and the wiring going to it for problems. If the contacts in the switch are dirty and vibrations causes them to lose continuity it would drop out the cruise and display the "Cruise Control Disengaged" message. BTW, I couldn't find a 402 circuit in the wiring diagram of the cruise control in the FSM.

The only glue I ever used was the glue that came in the kit. The kit also comes with a fixture to hold the o-ring material while cutting and gluing for perfect alignment of the ends. The glue seemed to be about the same as super-glue. When the ends touched it was glued instantly and ready to use. I think super-glue will work but I have not tried it. Here is a page that has glue made for o-rings if you need it.

You can also buy kits that have o-ring material of various diameters that can be cut to length and the ends glued for any size o-ring you want. They are strong and used in heavy industry all the time with great results. Could be expensive. I have used the kits before but never had to pay for them.

Park that thing on Cumberland Avenue in front of the University of Tennessee in Knoxville and it would sell in less than an hour. Go Vols!! BTW, if you thought you were watching a football game between Tennessee and Florida last week on TV it was actually a training video on how <span style="color: #FF0000">NOT</span> to play football.

I would start by checking the standard, non TEVES brake parts to be sure they are in good working order before spending money, such as: * internal collapsed brake hose * blocked or pinched steel brake line * a stuck caliper * pads worn unevenly * pads completely worn out on one side A front end way out of alignment could cause the car to pull to one side. Also eliminate the ABS system as being the problem as Barney suggests above. THEN start looking at the TEVES unit as the problem.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">go to Reatta.net and get in to the long list of TSB's and you will find it.</div></div>Nic, could you please tell me how to find the TSBs on Reatta.net? Or better still give me a link to the page? Thanks!

Dave, Thanks for your support. I thought I did the right thing by throwing up a red flag. Maybe Roger did the right thing in removing the posts. I'm just glad he didn't remove me. I don't want to get thrown off here. I will try to limit my comments to cars in the future. She got her window and I got to stay on the forum. I guess things worked out well.

Good question. Maybe you would be a counter-scammer. Kinda reminds me of Mad magazines "Spy vs. Spy".

The manual registration page is here.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: nic walker</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Just curious....are filter magnets really beneficial - worth the effort and money ? </div></div>One thing to consider is any ferrous metal parts that pass by the magnet and are not held will be magnetized and could possibly stick to other metal parts in places that could cause wear to the engine. I feel the oil under pressure in the filter is moving too fast to be held by the magnet over a period of time. If I used a magnet it would be a magnetic drain plug where the oil is moving more slowly and particles are easily attracted and held by the magnet. Removing it when changing the oil will allow cleaning off the trapped particles in the oil. Just my 2¢

Over the years I have found the true value of your car is the amount you are offered, and are willing to accept, after trying to sell it for an extended period. There are many price guides available such as NADA and Kelly Blue book, as well as some others that are more specifially targeted at vintage and collectable cars. They will give you a general starting point for pricing your car. Regardless of what any of the price guides say, the the value of your car is determined by your willingness to wait for the top dollar and the current market conditions for the car you are trying to sell.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">DON'T try this yet, but with my two stroke Jet Ski engines, you can feed a length of rope into a cylinder through the spark plug hole and that will harmlessly hold things in place...I don't know if this is safe to do in this case, so I advise not trying it without research.</div></div> Two stroke engines don't have intake and exhaust valves in the head. Don't try this on the 3.8 or any other four stroke engine. You will bend a valve or worse.

Below is the result of a poll on my website: Add your vote: Age of Reatta Owners (age range)--(votes)---(percent of voters) _______________________________ 51 - 60------61--------51.7% 61 - 70------28--------23.7% 41 - 50------15--------12.7% 31 - 40-------5--------4.2% 71 - 80-------4--------3.4% 21 - 30-------3--------2.5% 15 - 20-------1--------0.8% 81 - 90-------1--------0.8% Over 90-------0--------0%

<span style="font-weight: bold">Re: What do you think of this Reatta?:</span> I just got finished writing a long post on this topic and then I deleted it. My father once told me that if you can't say something good then don't say anything at all. I decided to take his advice.

It appears they only sell through their eBay store. All the info I have is here .

Thanks Richard. I added this information to the vendors list on my website.

Thanks Dave, I really appreciate it. If anyone has tutorials or articles about Reattas they would like added to the website please let me know.

Check to see if the fan is loose on the motor shaft. It could be slipping.

Thanks Greg. I'm glad you found the web site useful. You were using it for it's intended purpose... to help new owners.

"Klaatu barada nikto"