Ronnie

I was just looking at my Reatta sitting beside my extended cab Dodge Dakota and it dawned on me that they had a lot of things in common. They both are red, both have about the same size V6 (3.8 versus 3.7), both have rack and pinion steering, both have a console and bucket seats, both have driving lights and both have about the same amount of room behind the front seats. Should the Reatta be considered an extended cab (or club cab) sports car? On second thought maybe the Dakota should be considered an ugly sports car with a bed on it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mike_s</div><div class="ubbcode-body">USS Enterprise: aircraft carrier or starship? </div></div>That explains why I thought I could faintly make out the words NCC-1701 in the background of the original photo. The words disappeared when I cleaned up the photo. Disappeared?? Maybe the car is in a transporter room.

Thanks to everyone for your input. The first seven steps of the plan went perfectly. I see no reason that step eight should be any different. I think there is enough incentive for us both to want to complete the deal in a timely manner. The seller seems to be a great person to deal with and the vehicle was exactly as described in the eBay listing. Thanks again!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 63viking</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Do they always put wind tags on cars on dyno's?? </div></div>Only when they are doing a dyno pull in reverse as the direction of the chains indicate.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: CL_Reatta</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ya, knowing the seller still has the car while your the one paying it off for him seems kinda risky... but then again if I were a seller I would not give up my car with money still owed.... just my opinon, maybe would have been best to give the seller only the amound needed to pay off the vehicle, then give the amount due when you go to pick up the vehicle, I mean $1k is a lot, but isnt a lot at the same time? </div></div> If I had given him the amount to pay off the truck and not received the truck, he would have gotten a clear title to his truck at my expense. Then if he had decided not to sell or otherwise it would have left me with only the option of suing him and I didn't want to rely on a bill of sale to get my money back in a court of law. I would rather have the truck locked up in my garage with a bill of sale if I need to go to court. I have always heard that 90% of ownership is possession. BTW, this is an eBay transaction even though he lives fairly close to me. That is one reason I am cautious.

DAVESWF You are absolutely right. That is the reason I ran it by you guys before entering into the transaction. The help and information on this forum is great. Thanks to everyone who have commented so far. Any other comments are welcomed.

The following is what the seller and I have agreed to. What is your opinion of how we are to carry out this transaction? 1. The Seller will call the Lien Holder (Chrysler Financial) and request the 10-day Payoff amount for the loan and request the address where the payoff check should be mailed. <span style="font-style: italic">(A 10-day payoff is the amount required to payoff the lien 10 days from the time you call them. The loan accrues interest everyday so you have to send enough money to cover the interest while the check is in the mail.)</span> 2. The Buyer will obtain a cashiers check made out in the name of the Lien Holder (Chrysler Financial) for the amount of the 10-day payoff. On the check will be written the make, model and VIN number of the vehicle, and the Seller’s loan account number. 3. The Seller will write a note to the Lien Holder stating he/she wishes to pay off the loan and have the title mailed to him with the lien released. The Seller will write on the note the details about the vehicle (including the VIN number) his loan account number, his name and the mailing address where the title should be sent. 4. The Seller will mail the cashiers check and the note to the Lien Holder (Chrysler Financial) by Certified mail. 5. The Buyer will give the Seller another cashiers check for the remaining balance of the purchase price minus $1000.00 to be held in lieu of receiving a clear, signed title. 6. The Buyer will receive a signed bill of sale (Seller will receive a copy) stating the following: a. Details about the vehicle including the VIN number b. Full purchase price c. One thousand dollars ($1000.00) is still due on the vehicle d. The approximate date when a clear title will be turned over to the Seller. 7. Buyer will take possession of the vehicle and park it until the Seller receives the title from the Lien Holder. 8. The Seller will notify the Buyer when he receives a clear title and sign it over to The Buyer. The Buyer will present a certified check to the Buyer for $1000.00 to complete the transaction.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Mike_s</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Sounds like a wheel hub\bearing to me. I'd also consider a tire problem, maybe a busted belt, rotating the tires might give some insight. I guess cv joints might also be a possibility but they pretty much present problems by making clicking sounds in a low speed turn. </div></div> I think mike is right on target with his diagnosis of wheel bearing or tire problem. Probably a front wheel bearing since turning makes a difference. You might be able to detect an abnormal amount of heat from one wheel after driving for an extended period at higher speeds.

OK guys and gals, who wants to be the first to say that it is probably in the room where NASA dyno tests the Space Shuttles?

If it is a nice car you want to keep, I would find a body shop in your area that has a frame straightening machine that you drive the car up on. The frame machine has massive binding posts under the car and huge, thick steel, adjustable arms on each corner about 5 feet tall for attaching a variety of hardware designed to push and pull metal parts into place in a controlled manner. A local body shop near where I live has one and I was really impressed with what it could do without any muscle power needed. It is all hydraulic power. They specialize in rebuilding cars that have been in wrecks with major damage. I would think using brute force and the cars power to move sheet metal parts around will result more problems to deal with. If the car is worth fixing spend a few bucks more and let the pros straighten it out.

Just a little food for thought here guys. Look at the photo I posted. Look at the chains closely. They are holding the car to prevent it from going backwards. Do you know anyone who would want to do a dyno test with the car in reverse? I don't think so.

Thanks for all your replies. Would the following be an acceptable way to handle the transaction in my original post? 1. The seller gets the exact amount of payoff on the vehicle. 2. I give the seller a certified check for the payoff amount made out to Chrysler Financial and make a note on it with the vehicle id information and the account number that it should be credited to. 3. The seller gives me a bill of sale stating the vehicle id information and details, the amount I have paid and the balance remaining. It would also state that a title with the lien released would be presented to me within a specified amount of time. We have it notarized. 4. The seller receives the title from Chrysler Financial with the lien released and signs it over to me. I pay the seller the balance owed on the vehicle and take possession. Anything else I should do? Will I be protected with this arrangement? Any comments are appreciated...

Maybe a clearer version will help.

This is off topic and not about Reattas. I really trust your opinion and would like to get your input. I need help in finding the right way to purchase a truck with a lien on the title. Here's the situation: I want to buy a vehicle from a local individual. He has a loan with on the vehicle with Chrysler Financia Corp. They hold the title to the vehicle. They do not have a local office so he must pay off the loan by mail. He needs the cash from the sale of the vehicle to pay off the loan in order to get a clear title to give to me. He wants me to give him a cashiers check for the purchase ($7000) and in return I get a bill of sale, registration papers and the vehicle to take home. Then he will send a check to the loan company. When he gets a title with the lein released he will mail it to me. That will then allow me to title and register the vehicle in my name. Is this the proper way to handle a transaction like this where a clear title is not available? Has anyone here dealt with a transaction where you could not go to the bank and pay off the loan and receive a clear title on the spot? I'm not worried about waiting a few days to get the title but I don't want get burned in this deal either. Any lawyers here that want to give their opinion? Thanks in advance for your help.

I'm glad you find the site useful.

Strut and End Link Replacement Instructions are here .

Maybe this will help:

I have posted the write up on my website. It can be found here . I made a few changes for readability. If I screwed something up let me know.

Roger, what model is your car? Will this write up apply to all Reattas? With your permission I would like to add this information to my website.

Steak, I fail to see your point. What are you trying to tell us?

And we thought our Teves system was dangerous and needs to be replaced.

If you strip and polish the wheels and don't apply a coating what will prevent oxidation (that will appear as a white powder on the servace of the wheels), from starting? Are you planning on polishing them again every month or so or do you know another trick that will prevent oxidation? I'm just curious about what your thinking is on stripping and polishing the wheels and then not coating them to protect them.

Click here and you will find instructions for removing the radio module and for replacing the radio module capacitors. I replaced the capacitors in my radio and it stop popping a clicking noises. To see if the capacitors are your problem do the following: 1. Park the car outside so your house electrical system will not effect the test. 2. Press the 'Radio" hard button on the upper right of the CRT screen. 3. Press the 'Tune' soft key right on the CRT. (tune buttons will appear at the bottom of the CRT. 4. Use the up and down soft keys to tune the radio to a frequency where there is <span style="font-weight: bold">not a station</span> and does not have static if possible. Steady white noise is ok but silence is best. (may be hard to achieve inside a city). 5. Turn up the volume and listen for random pops and clicks. If you still hear the pops and clicks the capacitors need to be replaced. Otherwise check for bad speakers, bad antenna or bad connections.

Thanks Philip, That is one of my favorites. Do you know if they are 15", 16" or 17" ?

What car is the second wheel from the bottom from?