Ronnie

It could be the belt. It's the only thing that comes in contact with the tensioner.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Yes, however once the engine has started, it does not sound like the cam signal is used for anything, other than preventing the Service Engine Soon fault from being displayed. Correct? So, in my case, when I start my car and the faults come on later (intermittently), I doubt there is any effect on the engine performance.</div></div> If you re-read the last part for the FSM clipping and came to that conclusion, you my friend are a true optimist. It says, "a Code 41 will set and the ECM will start sequential fuel delivery in <span style="text-decoration: underline">any old random pattern</span>." As a mechanic I take that to mean "your car is going to run half a$$ed but it will still run". To me that would be unacceptable. I guess that makes me a pessimist.

Did you actually read the last part of what you posted? It says there is a 1 in 6 chance the fuel delivery will be correct. That is not very good odds for having the fuel delivered a the correct time. That would explain why others have reported poor gas mileage and poor performance.

It can drain the tank if the line is lower than the fuel level in the tank by siphoning it out. Thanks for adding the code to your signature line but you didn't get it all copied. Please add: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Code:</div><div class="ubbcode-body ubbcode-pre" ><pre> Click Here to list yours Free! *** </pre></div></div> to the end of what you now have. Thanks again.

Guys, the problem with the Reattas for sale part of my website is no one is using it. I don't mind maintaining it but it is like throwing a party and no one showing up. Forum members here still use the old form that is available here most of the time. It does the job but after a couple of days it becomes old news and hardly gets read again. Maybe they don't know about my Reattas for sale page or maybe they just like the form better. I don't know. I will keep the ReattasForSale site going if I can get some help in getting more people to use it. If anyone is interested in keeping the site going and wants to help, you can copy and paste the following text to the bottom of your signature line. It is a link to the website to let people know it is there. If you don't feel good about doing this I will understand. If enough people add the link then the site will not end July 1. Please copy the <span style="font-weight: bold">entire</span> text below to your signature line. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Code:</div><div class="ubbcode-body ubbcode-pre" ><pre> [color:#FF6600]ReattasForSale.com - Reatta cars and parts for sale *** Click Here to list yours Free! *** </pre></div></div>

It would be great if this could turn in to a list of wheel & tire combinations that have actually been used. I would like to add the list to my website so it would be easy to find in the future. So far this thread is talking in general terms about wheels that would fit the Reatta and I could add that info as well. Anyone who is running wheels, other than the stock Reatta wheels, that work without problems, please post the following: <span style="font-weight: bold">wheels size / tires size / bolt pattern / make and model of the vehicle the wheels came off of</span> Soon we will have a list of wheels we know will fit.

My web site, ReattasForSale.com, will end on July 1, 2008. Sorry for any inconvenience it may cause. There has not been much demand for the website since it was started. A few people have listed on the site but not enough to make it worth while. There is no need in me maintaining a web site that is not used. Thanks to everyone that used the site. ReattaOwner.com will continue to operate. It has a lot of visitors and seems to be helping new Reatta owners. If anyone has comments on how to improve it please let me know.

Don't forget to remove 2 quarts of old fluid before you add 2 quarts of the Klotz (#KL-930) - Racing TechniPlate 10W/30 oil.

It sounds like you are mixing two separate and distinct procedures. 1. <span style="font-weight: bold">Topping off a system that is low on freon due to a small leak where the A/C just stops putting out cold air.</span> In this case the system has not been opened and has not completely lost it's charge (no air has entered the system). This procedure only requires finding and fixing the leak if possible without opening the system and losing freon (such as tightening a loose fitting). Then adding the proper amount of freon to return the A/C system to operating condition. Normally no oil is needed and evacuating the system (vacuuming) is not necessary. This can usually be done by a shade tree mechanic with a can or two of freon and a hose kit. 2. <span style="font-weight: bold">Repairing a system (replacing parts) or changing it over to 134a where the system must be opened and the freon removed or lost to atmosphere.</span> In this case the system should be flushed, at the least a new filter/dryer should be installed as well as new o-rings. The system should be fully evacuated. A leak down test should be performed at this time to determine leaks in the system. Then new oil should be added as well as the proper amount of freon. This procedure should be left to the pros. You need a lot of special tools to disconnect lines and hoses, to pull the clutch off a compressor as well as proper equipment to evacuate the system. A good set of A/C gages is a must when doing this type of work. A can with a hose attached just won't get it.

You can't go wrong with the Klotz. $20 worth of Klotz could save you a lot of work... Try it if it doesn't work you will be draining it out anyway when you replace the solenoid. Either way be sure to post your results here. Good luck!!

According to the FSM it could be done without pulling the transmission. But... they are referring to doing it in a garage like a dealership would have. After reading all the things that must be done, disconnecting the steering rack, removing axles and dropping the cradle in the rear, I would leave it up to a transmission shop that has the experience and proper tools to do the job.

If the compressor comes on a puts out cool air I would wait for the sealer to do it's job before adding more freon. The compressor must be running in order for the sealer to stop the leak. As a side note, I have never had any luck with the A/C stop leak. Good Luck! Maybe it will work for you. I prefer the red dye that can be added to the system to show leaks around fittings etc. When you find the leak with the dye you can fix the leak the right way instead of relying on the stop leak to temporarily stop the leak The best way to find a leak is a leak detector device that is commonly called a sniffer. It is a highly sensitive device that detects the freon coming out of a fitting or pinhole and sets off an alarm. Any professional A/C technician will have a sniffer.

Klotz is a specialty oil company like Amzoil and Redline. Usually they are just popular with the racing crowd. Klotz is very popular with boat and go cart racers. I buy it locally from an auto parts store. The owner is a world record holder boat racer. Their website is here. It is not a very high tech web site so you might want to call in your order. Be sure to ask for KL-930 if you order. They also use it in their automatic transmissions. I don't know if the large chain stores will have it or not. An Internet search turns up lot of stores who sell it. There should be a store near you.

You can read about it in this article and this article .

Yes, it is a fully synthetic motor oil that will blend with petroleum oils and synthetic lubricants.

If it stays locked and stalls at a light or stop sign you can start the car in neutral and pull the shifter into drive. If you are lucky it will start the car moving without stalling again. It will jerk the car really hard but it will get you out of bind until you can get home. What was recommended to me by a friend who works on transmissions at the local Chevy, Cadillac and GMC dealer is the following: (He said it was also good for cars that shudder when the torque converter locks.) Remove a little over two quarts of transmission fluid. I used a had suction pump to draw the fluid out through the dipstick tube. You could also remove a transmission cooler line from the radiator. After the fluid is removed add two quarts of Klotz (#KL-930) - Racing TechniPlate 10W/30 oil. It is a red oil that looks just like transmission fluid. After about a week the sticking torque converter problem went away and never returned. I now put two quarts of of the Klotz in all my vehicles. I believe the car shifts smoother with the Klotz and I have never had another sticking problem. It costs about $11.00 a quart. I hasn't hurt my vehicles after 5 years. Let me know the results if you try it.

No problem. Great minds think alike.

The lockup portion of the torque converter is sticking and not unlocking. Fluid pressure, to the clutch inside the torque converter, is applied by an electric solenoid inside the transmission when it receives a signal from the ECU. The solenoid mechanically sticking is probably the problem. I doubt it is an electrical problem. I would try sea foam again. Be careful. It can be dangerous if it stays locked and continues to pull the car when coming to a stop at a red light. I had a Pontiac Fiero that did the same thing.

I'm not sure where you are saying it needs to be amended. My post above about clips doesn't mention a brown clip. Could you please point out where you are referring to and I will change it as needed.

Dave, I'm still willing to help with payment via PayPal or credit card if needed. Money will be refunded if the deal falls through. Just PM me when you are ready to accept payments. I have everything ready to go except I need to know the final price.

Welcome back to the forum! <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Daves89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The "door is ajar" warning is an indication that the brown plastic clip down by the lock with 2 leads one black one gray ending in a yellow connection needs to be replaced. Both these parts are readily available from Jim Finn our resident used parts guy. To replace both parts you will have to remove the interior door panel. The actuator is a simple repair, the door is a jar lead is a little more involved.</div></div> Instructions for removing the door panel are on my website. Click here.

Details about Cal Pop Top can be found here.

This post may help you.

That is normal for mine. It's an '88 model.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a bug that says go to Arizona from Winnipeg,MB next week... Any suggestions of items to take along if I get stranded?</div></div> Take that talking bug along with you. If the Reatta breaks down you can sell the bug for enough money to buy a new Corvette and drive it back to Winnipeg. Sorry, I don't mean to be a smart a$$. I just couldn't help but laugh at the thoughts of a talking bug.