Ronnie

*anything* can act like ignition problems.

It appears the chances of making it work out are very small. I thank you for your effort in trying to get the orders together. My 88 model does not use the shock or I would have been on board. I believe my first post to this thread explains what went wrong with getting enough orders.

Have you tried the email he has listed in his profile? It is REATTAMAN1@AOL.COM. Maybe he will respond.

How To Post Photos To The Forum: 1. - After signing in, create a new topic or reply to an existing post. (You must click on the "reply" button, you cannot use the "quick reply" box at the bottom of a post.) 2. - Type your message in the full reply box. 3. - Click "File Manager" below the full reply box next to where it says "Post Options". (A new window will pop up.) 4. - Click "Browse" and select the photo file from your computer. You can add a caption for the file now if you like in the box provided. (Make sure the photo is less than 1 megabyte in size.) 5. - Click the "Add File" button. 5a - Repeat steps 4 and 5 if you want to add more photos. 6. - After you're done, click "Done Adding Files". (The pop up window will close.) 7. - Click "Submit" to post your message and photos to the forum.

I saw that book at the local used book store. It tells you everything you ever wanted to know about the system except how to rebuild or repair it. Not very useful for what I wanted. Most of the information in it can be found on the Internet.

Could be a weak clutch coil but I would bet the air gap is too wide on the clutch and needs adjusted. You said it would work if pushed closer to the coil. The air gap should be .020 - .030. The same tool that removes the clutch can be used to press the clutch on a little further. You can rent the tool from Autozone.

I changed mine and it was really easy. Unlike a lot of other cars, the Reatta Oil pan will come off without much problem. Disconnect the oil level sensor connector, remove the flywheel dust cover, starter and the bolts and it will come right off with a little sliding around to clear the pickup screen. I have the small reduction starter on my engine and I didn't have to remove it but if you have the standard, large starter I believe it will have to come off before removing the pan.

I'm not certain but I think so. I'm sure someone here with a 1990 model can better answer your question.

If we can come up with an accurate list of all cars that had the Mark II Teves system like we have on the Reatta I intend to post it on my website. I feel like matthewlawe's list of GM cars is accurate. <span style="font-weight: bold">Anyone have other cars to add that are known to be the same system?</span>

Instructions for removing the door panel are on the website as well. They can be found here. Dave, if you have written, (tell me where to find it), or would like to write instructions for fixing the door actuator I would be happy to add it to my website. I think I have the same problem you describe. My lock button moves slow and I have to press it two or three times to get it to move all the way.

Read this before having it replaced. It could be just the magnet. Both are relatively easy to change. It sends a signal to the computer about the position of the camshaft. It is not the same as the crank sensor.

Hi John, Welcome to the forum! You will find nice people here willing to help with your problems. I would recommend you start by asking for help, one problem at a time. Give us as many details about the problem as you can. Someone here will be glad to help.

I found the list here. I have found most if the info on that site to be fairly accurate. If the list is incorrect I will gladly delete it. Anyone else find it to be wrong? Let me know what you think.

Here's a good listing of cars using the TEVES MARK 2 system: <span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">TEVES MARK 2 ABS (4-wheel, Integral ABS)</span></span> 1985 to 1989 Lincoln Continental 1985 to 1992 Lincoln Mark VII 1986 to 1989 Buick LeSabre 1986 to 1990 Buick Electra, Park Avenue 1986 to 1989 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham 1986 to 1990 Cadillac DeVille 1986 to 1990 Oldsmobile 98 1986 to 1990 Pontiac 6000 STE 1987 to 1992 Ford Thunderbird 1987 to 1992 Mercury Cougar 1987 to 1993 Saab 9000 1988 to 1989 Cadillac Eldorado, Seville 1988 to 1989 Buick Reatta, Riviera 1988 to 1989 Merkur Scorpio 1988 to 1990 Oldsmobile Delta 88, Toronado 1988 to 1991 Peugeot 505 1988 to 1990 Pontiac Bonneville & SSE 1991 to 1993 Saab 900 1991 to 1993 Volkswagen Passat

Thanks again. I want to try to muffle the sound of it some.

Thanks for the photo. I may need it in the future.

Thanks for the info. At that price I will be hearing the weird sound mine makes for a long time.

Mine sounds like the sonar sound the Seaview made in the movie, Voyage To The Bottom of The Sea". Really weird. Where is it? Also on the subject of chimes... where is the one for the turn signal?

You guys haven't been visiting my web site enough. Those articles have been there for about a month. Look in the Information menu > "About The Reatta". There are a lot of other great articles there also.

http://www.leatherique.com/index.htm

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NYBobP.</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The Reatta Division should have a replacement for this forum where we could go and be part of something like we have here. Something that would make us want to be a member...to be part of "the club". </div></div> I, for one would hate to have a "replacement" for this forum. And for the few bucks it costs to join the BCA and the Reatta Division, to me its more than worth it. </div></div> When I was talking in terms of a "replacement" for this forum I was trying to point out that I feel the proper place for a Reatta forum is on the website of the Reatta Club (the Reatta Division). I think if all the Reatta enthusiast here on this forum were using a forum on the Reatta Division's website they would be more likely to become members of the Reatta Division. They would feel like they were part of the club. This is the best forum on the Internet and has the best people. I was just suggesting bringing all the Reatta enthusiast together in order to have a good reason to join the Reatta Division. If others want to be part of two or three separate groups with no true sense of direction and purpose that is fine with me. I'm a newcomer here and really maybe I shouldn't be so outspoken.

Did the car have a fast idle as it should when first started? If not, I would start by cleaning the IAC (Idle Air Control) If not working properly the IAC can allow the car to stall. Instructions are here. It doesn't cost anything to clean it. Next I would try the ICM and coil pack. They are easy to change. Instructions for changing to the Delco system are here. I changed to the Delco system and my car seems to run better. Save the check valve for last because you must drop the fuel tank to replace it. I don't believe the check valve would cause the stalling once the car is started. It can be the cause of hard starting.

88-94 Chevy pickup, They also came in 95 Buick Regals. If you must have the 7 band equalizer then make sure it was a option on the doner vehicle.

Vincent, I too am not a member of the BCA or the Reatta Division. I have nothing against either one. Like you I feel this forum is where I feel most at home with my Reatta friends. If I thought I would get the same feeling somehow by joining the BCA and The Reatta Division I would happily join and pay the dues. The money is not the issue. I have spent a lot of time looking at the BCA and the Reatta Division websites. They are nice sites but the feeling of being part of something is just not there for me and I always come running back here to see what is going on. I feel like I am part of the "club" when I'm here. All the meets the clubs have are too far away from me. I don't think I would enjoy driving two or three hundred miles to attend a 30 minute meeting and paying $60 a year for the privilege of doing it. I would personally like to see the members this forum, and the Reatta Division members all join forces and work together to form a group that would not have to depend on the BCA. I'm not saying we should abandon the BCA but that we should be a more self centered group that happens to be part of the BCA. I would like to see us organize more of our own meets in more centralized locations so we could get together and not feel like the stepchildren of the BCA. I have never been to a BCA event and I have nothing at all against them but I feel it is time we started relying on ourselves instead of following them around in hopes we will be accepted. From what knowledge I have about the leaders of the Reatta Division they are a great bunch of people and are trying very hard to keep the club organized. The thing about the Reatta Division that I see as a huge problem is a lack of unity. Members are scattered across the nation and getting together for a business meeting each year is not enough. There needs to be the same camaraderie and friendships in the club as there is on this forum to have a club that will draw and keep new members. I propose that this forum should in some way become part of the Reatta Division instead of separated. I think the Reatta Division should focus more on what is taking place here at the grass roots level and not focus so much on what the BCA is doing. They should reach out to the forum members here and give them some reasons to join. The Reatta Division should have a replacement for this forum where we could go and be part of something like we have here. Something that would make us want to be a member...to be part of "the club". The Reatta division should be the ultimate website for things Reatta with it's own forum, announcements and a calendar of events so members would know what is going on in the club. No I don't have all the answers on how all this could be implemented. But like all other challenges we have here on the forum, as a group we could figure it out. I apologize, I didn't mean for this to turn into a "I Have A Dream" speech but it is something I have been wanting to say for a long time. Thanks for listening.

I believe alex was suggesting turning the key on and off three or four times in a row, pausing between each cycle. When you turn the key on the fuel pump only runs for a few seconds and shuts off. Turning the key on and off 3 or 4 times will ensure the pump is pressurizing the injectors before you try to start the engine. Just turning the key on one time may not be enough to pressurize the injectors if the check valve is bad and allowing the gas to flow back to the tank.