Ronnie

Thanks for the reply. I just returned from Autozone with a Bosch. They told me about the same thing as what you said. Thanks again!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: PAR</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have a hum in my 89 Reatta radio, I have been told it is the amp. Where do I find the amp. and radio, and how do I get it out. </div></div> Here is the info you need. Good Luck!

What is your opinion? I need to buy one and want to get the best.

Find another mechanic that is doesn't need Prozac when confronted by a small problem. If the line ruptured in an inaccessible location have him route the line a different way. He may be wanting to keep the car absolutely stock but to do so at the expense of taking out the transmission is ridiculous in my opinion. If you have a really low mileage show car you might want to keep it 100% stock but otherwise find a new mechanic.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: *Reatta*</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-weight: bold">This posting is for serious 1991 Reatta owners ONLY! </span> </div></div> Sorry but this is a <span style="font-weight: bold">PUBLIC</span> forum. If you only want certain people to read your post you will need to send each member of your intended audience a PM.

I sent you a private message several days ago please respond.

Instructions for replacing the magnet can be found here.

I believe I agree with what you are trying to say. One would think that the signal from the crankshaft position sensor could be used to do the same job. Maybe the camshaft position sensor is more accurate.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: F14CRAZY</div><div class="ubbcode-body">That's quite discouraging, a genuine GM part that's in a bad spot going bad that quickly. Why did GM bother anyway? There's already a crankshaft position sensor...couldn't they just had went with that signal? I mean the crank is always in sync with the cam </div></div> I beg to differ. The camshaft only turns one revolution for every two revolutions of the crankshaft. Therefore they are not always in sync.

It is the spoiler that came on a 2000 Oldsmobile Alero. It is 53 inches wide and 6-1/2 inches front to back. The right tip of the spoiler has 1 inch clearance between it and the antenna. It has 1-1/4 inches clearance underneath. You can read about it and other spoilers here: http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Main/103451/Number/445906#Post445906 Also more photos of it are there.

Hey VV. I liked the spoiler you posted. I actually mounted one on my car. Should be great for yard work.

Looks nice but I thought I had the perfect fit. Just kidding of course. A lot of people here do not like spoilers so be prepared. We will probably both get some negative comments. Oh well...

If it is the oil level sensor it should connect on the side of the oil pan that faces the front of the car.

I saw the car on eBay. I personally don't like the look. It makes the car appear to have four fog/driving lights. The Camaro headlights in the grill seem to be about the same size as the fog/driving lights. If I were going to use the Camaro headlights I would mount them in the place where the fog/driving lights are now located and leave the grill intact.

C331 = Tape Deck Problem C553 = CRTC Memory Reset Indicator These are CRT codes not ECM. Could not find C531

My local junk yard uses Hollander software and I found that it was not 100% accurate when I was searching for a Delco ignition module to replace the Magnavox module on my '88 model. A lot of the cars/years listed by Hollander would not work due to a different mounting bracket. Moral of this story is you can't always depend on Hollander to be accurate when buying parts.

Looks like this might be another one of those threads that ends without anyone knowing what resolved the problem. That makes it really frustrating for anyone who is searching for help on a similar problem in the future and arrives here at a dead end. It would benefit everyone if people seeking and getting help would please report back here what actually corrected their problem.

I removed the grill and painted it matte black ( not glossy but not flat either). Then I carefully removed the black paint on the front of the bars so the chrome shows again. I'm very happy with the look it gave the car. I also added a spoiler but I used one from an Oldsmobile Alero. Changing the sway bar end link bushings to urethane made a big difference in the handling of my '88 model.

Unplug the left headlight bulb. Put the hi beams on and see if the wire gets hot.

Start out by disconnecting the new headlamps, one at a time. Did the wire stop overheating when either one was disconnected? Next disconnect the headlight motors. Did the overheating go away?

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: hndblt88</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I am looking to put an LS4 in my 1990 Reatta as the 3800 is not in great order as it was neglected for the past 4 years. For now, the car is going to be stripped down fully, 3800 will be gone and I would like to put an LS4 in to be more original swap than the usual 3800 SC. Anybody know if it will fit for sure with the transmission from the Impala SS for example. What else what I need from the donor car and the Reatta. Thanks. </div></div> With enough time and enough money almost anything can be accomplished. I suspect you will need a lot of both. Will the effort be worth it? I doubt it.

I would isolate the circuit that is causing the problem. Start by disconnecting circuits going to the headlight switch, headlight, tail lights, interior lights, anything powered by the headlight switch, until the yellow wire stops overheating. Then troubleshoot the circuit that causes the wire to overheat. I suspect you have a wire somewhere partly grounded OR possibly a bad ground that is using another circuit as a ground (back feeding through the headlight switch).

Nina, You an list your car to the website below for free. Do you have more pictures?

I have mine burning anytime the ignition is on. I like to use them as running lights. Bulbs are easy to change.

I have an '88 model. I used the Hayden #3652 mentioned in the article. Details can be found here: http://forums.aaca.org/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/501896#Post501896 As information, the probes for sensing temperature that install in the radiator, included in the Hayden kits, do not work as advertised. At least not for me. I had to mount the sensor on the engine to get an accurate reading.