Ronnie

Below is what AutoZone has to say about the pulsator. They have them for sale. I would also investigate a leaking injector. AutoZone:<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Fuel Pump Pulsator Operation: A small accumulator mounted between the fuel pump outlet and the fuel pressure regulator. Most are mounted in the fuel tank between the fuel pump outlet and the fuel supply line. It reduces the fuel pressure variations that occur as the fuel injectors open and close, and to reduce operating noise. Usually built-in grommets seal the unit to the tubing ends. Some are made into a section of flexible fuel line located in the engine compartment. Failure of the in-tank units would result in increased noise or loss of fuel pressure or volume, depending on the type of failure, the external units could develop fuel leaks detectable by smell or visual inspection. The pulsator isn't a routine maintenance item, although replacing the in-tank unit is recommended with a fuel pump replacement. </div></div>

It snaps into place on the other end. Pull the cover toward the end with the bolt and out at the same time.

Advance Auto Parts has Castrol GTX 10w30 for $7.98 per gallon. Thats $1.99 per quart.

Barney, The website seems to work fine when viewed with Internet Explorer. The website is not working properly with the Firefox browser. At least not for me. Only the last two links, 'manuals' and 'Peterson Award' in the menu are functional. Some of the formating of text and spacing is also different. If you are using Microsoft Office to build the website those types of problems are common and sometimes hard to work around.

With the AC on it's coldest setting, do you have COLD air coming out of the vents, after the car has sat overnight, and BEFORE the engine has ran long enough to warm up?

Where is it located? Reattaville? Seems Reattas were all the cars that were parked on that street... Maybe Reatta Ave. Add it to my website... see below.

If they are important on other models, how does my '88 model survive without one? As far as I know it never had one.

As info... I gave $4.87 including tax for the bearing.

Be aware when removing the bolt that holds the pulley that it has left hand treads.

You are right. I'm one of the guilty parties and I apologize to everyone. I appreciate Nic's post about the great deal on the oil.

Yes, buy only the pulley with a new bearing already installed. OR if you are careful you can remove just enough of the plastic holding the bearing in the pulley so you can knock the bearing out and press a new one back in. The latter is what I did on my Reatta.

If you don't want opinions or personal experiences it would seem you are looking for someone to do research on the subject for you. I would suggest you could do it just as easily on your own by using Google or Yahoo. A forum such as this is by nature a place for people to express their opinions and relate their experiences. Why would you wish to exclude opinions and personal knowledge on a forum?

I agree with Viking. Here is what I have learned about oil from being a machinist and mechanic for over 25 years. I have torn down dozens of engines. Whenever I tore an engine down that had high mileage that was unusually clean inside and had very little wear I would ask the owner about the type of oil he used and how often it was changed. The brand of oil that was used in the cleanest engines I have taken apart was Castrol GTX. Castrol GTX also was superior in reducing wear. Most engines that had used GTX had very little cylinder wear. Usually not enough that they needed ridge reaming after 200,000 miles. Valvoline was second in keeping the engine clean and reducing wear. Stay away from Quaker State and all cheap oils as most are paraffin based oils and tend to build up on engine parts. I have seen oil return holes in cylinder heads completely plugged with buildup from these type oils. I have needed to use a pry bar to remove the distributor from the intake manifold of a 350 small block because it had so much buildup on the bottom end that it would not fit through the hole in the manifold. I have used Castrol GTX in all my vehicles for many years. I have never had any oil related problems. My previous two pickup trucks had over 200,000 miles when I traded them and the engines never had any internal engine problems. My current pickup, a Chevrolet has over 205,000 miles on it and no internal engine problems. To sum up my thoughts on engine oils; Use a premium quality engine oil (I highly recommend Castrol GTX), change your oil every 3000 miles and use a good filter like Purolator, you will not have any problems caused by the oil. You can spend the big bucks and buy the expensive synthetic oils and brag about what a superior oil they are compared to petroleum based oils (and they may be) but to me they are not necessary and are a waste of money. The synthetics may be better in high performance applications but in normal vehicles like the Reatta I don't see where they are needed.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why don't you post an order site[Like Ronnie's site]? We can go there an order if we want. You can set up pay pal or accept checks. For $15.00 I'll take one as well. Could you do the same for accumulators? </div></div>You would be more than welcome to use the "Reatta parts for sale" section of my website to list any parts like this if you want.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DAVES89</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Why don't you post an order site[Like Ronnie's site]? We can go there an order if we want. You can set up pay pal or accept checks. For $15.00 I'll take one as well. Could you do the same for accumulators? </div></div>You would be more than welcome to use the "Reatta parts for sale" section of my website to list any parts like this if you want.

Ask him to list it on my website with photos so we can all see it.

Ask him to list it on my website with photos so we can all see it.

It's a good idea to consult this forum before spending so much money.

It's a good idea to consult this forum before spending so much money.

If there is a need, I can build an online store for Reatta only parts like accumulators or anything else. I could accept payment via PayPal, Credit cards or checks in the mail. Then the person who actually has the parts could dropship to the customers address. It could work like a consignment shop. I would only ask a very small fee or percentage for my effort. If anyone is interested maybe we should start another thread about it.

If there is a need, I can build an online store for Reatta only parts like accumulators or anything else. I could accept payment via PayPal, Credit cards or checks in the mail. Then the person who actually has the parts could dropship to the customers address. It could work like a consignment shop. I would only ask a very small fee or percentage for my effort. If anyone is interested maybe we should start another thread about it.

A word of caution about buying lifetime warranty brakes at AutoZone or other places. I put a set of AutoZone's best lifetime warranty pads on the front of the wife's 2000 Ford Taurus. At the time of the replacement the the rotors looked new. After about 15000 miles while looking at the wheels I noticed the rotors had grooves in them. I removed the wheels for a closer inspection and found that both rotors on both sides had small grooves across the area where the pads touched. The pads were so hard they were wearing out the rotors. I talked to Autozone about the problem and he said the warranty didn't cover the rotors. They explained to me that the hard pads were needed to make them last. They said something had to wear in order for the car to stop properly. I went to NAPA and purchased their premium pad and a new pair of rotors and now everything is wearing as it should. No grooved rotors.

A word of caution about buying lifetime warranty brakes at AutoZone or other places. I put a set of AutoZone's best lifetime warranty pads on the front of the wife's 2000 Ford Taurus. At the time of the replacement the the rotors looked new. After about 15000 miles while looking at the wheels I noticed the rotors had grooves in them. I removed the wheels for a closer inspection and found that both rotors on both sides had small grooves across the area where the pads touched. The pads were so hard they were wearing out the rotors. I talked to Autozone about the problem and he said the warranty didn't cover the rotors. They explained to me that the hard pads were needed to make them last. They said something had to wear in order for the car to stop properly. I went to NAPA and purchased their premium pad and a new pair of rotors and now everything is wearing as it should. No grooved rotors.

I purchased an accumulator from gmpartsdirect.com on 5/13/07. Accumulator was $112.00 shipping was $19.19 for a total of $131.19. They make a lot off shipping. Actual shipping would have been about $9.00. Still they were the cheapest price I could find at that time.

I purchased an accumulator from gmpartsdirect.com on 5/13/07. Accumulator was $112.00 shipping was $19.19 for a total of $131.19. They make a lot off shipping. Actual shipping would have been about $9.00. Still they were the cheapest price I could find at that time.