Ronnie

I believe alex was suggesting turning the key on and off three or four times in a row, pausing between each cycle. When you turn the key on the fuel pump only runs for a few seconds and shuts off. Turning the key on and off 3 or 4 times will ensure the pump is pressurizing the injectors before you try to start the engine. Just turning the key on one time may not be enough to pressurize the injectors if the check valve is bad and allowing the gas to flow back to the tank.

Salvage yard is a good place to start. Here are instructions on replacing the radio module.

I may be talking out of turn but I think Dave is currently working out the details, like his total cost with shipping and what it will cost to ship the shocks, so he can offer a firm price that everyone can live with. I'm sure we will hear from him soon as time is running out to take advantage of this one time deal.

It seems it is just getting harder and harder to find good seventh grade drop outs nowadays. Maybe we need to build some special schools for them so they don't get bogged down in all the modern day math and science. I really see it as a good thing because when they get out of school they would have no way to go but up.

Does anyone have a photo of this item that you could post?

His signature line for a short time said something to the effect: ... Parts sold on eBay... dream lost I don't remember the exact words. I don't understand all the secrecy. Either he scrapped the car or he didn't. Why wait until tomorrow to give a better reply?

Sorry, I misunderstood what you wanted.

Click here for instructions. OEM replacement will be the same.

Guys, I'm a little confused as to why you are telling him how to get the codes when he has already stated: <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: oshoffst</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've checked the diagnostic and the codes which appear are as follows: "E044 History", "No BCM Codes", "C553 History", and "ECM?".... </div></div> Did I miss something?

Welcome to the forum. "ECM?" is normal. You are being asked if you want to enter the ECM section of diagnostics. "C553" (CRTC Memory Reset) is probably the cause of your problem. It is telling you the BCM and/or CRT are loosing power. Probably a bad connection at a battery cable or the ground terminal box near the battery. Could also be the connections to the CRT itself. Since you said the car did not start right away, I would bet on a bad battery connection somewhere or bad cable. "E044" (O2 sensor - lean exhaust) Clear codes and see if this code returns. If it does replace the O2 sensor.

Dave, I think you are going to learn a lesson I have learned many times... family and friends (and forum members) would rather spend their money with a stranger than allow someone they know to make a dollar off them. Even if $35 is a bargain, there are a lot of people who will not buy the shock simply because they know you will be making 20 bucks. A sad lesson in life that I have learned many times over. I hope I'm wrong and you are able to sell them all.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Unfortunately, it looks like I need to have the problem happen again, in order to start the troubleshoot process. And, my luck, it will happen when or where I can't troubleshoot. </div></div> You can't fix it if it's not broken. Carry a volt meter, paper towels and the Service manual with you. If the pump stops running going down the road that is the best time to troubleshooting the problem anyway.

Dave, I hope not. This is where the good information comes from. I hope some Reatta owners are finding something useful on the website. That is what makes building it worth while.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: MauiWowee</div><div class="ubbcode-body">This would be a good time to post a link to the Delco upgrade. (Sorry, I can't seem to find it.) </div></div> That is the reason I save the links on my website. Click here for the Delco upgrade.

The following is from a previous discussion here about brake fluids. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> A good brand of Dot 3 is all you need, but plan on changing it every two to three years...depending on the humidity in your area. Dot 4 is synthetic but not silicon and can be used. <span style="font-weight: bold">Dot 5 is silicon and cannot be used. The ABS valves/solenoids will airate silicon and the pump may not get proper lubrication with silicon based fluid. </span> </div></div>

Dave, that is a great write-up! I added it to the repair section of my website for easy reference in the future. It can be found here.

Press the upper-left button on the outside of the CRT to enter Climate mode. Press and hold the OFF and WARM buttons. After a few seconds the CRT will enter diagnostics mode. Have paper and pencil handy to write down the codes.

When I cut my old accumulator open the bladder had torn.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith_Milford</div><div class="ubbcode-body">One more question, please. I did notice, as I was doing the brake tests, that the brake fluid is overfilled about 1/4" or more above the fill mark. Could this be the gremlin that caused the accumulator failure? Seems kind of innocuous to cause that much damage. </div></div> Overfilling would not cause the accumulator to go bad. However, I do recommend removing the excess fluid. The rubber bladder inside the accumulator is what goes bad. Like any other rubber part in your car, it will deteriorate and wear out. How long it will last depends on the length of time it has been in service and the number of repetitions of expanding and contracting it has been subjected to. The conditions of the brake fluid may play some part in how long it will last also. I consider the accumulator a wear item that normally needs replacing at some point in the life of the car.

You're welcome.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Keith_Milford</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Ugh, that is brutal. I'm calling my mechanic to see if he can work any magic to get one faster. Couldn't hurt to have a spare. Anybody got a working one they want to UPS to me. I can email a shipping label; just provide an approx. weight. Since replacement looks pretty simple, shouldn't be a problem just swapping out when the new one gets here. </div></div> Did you see this? It could possibly be new as he changed over to a different system. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Re: wvernon ABS brake test results steakneggs Member I have an '88 accumulator I'll sell for $10 plus shipping. PM me. Steak </div></div>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dee_Pisano</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Well I did upload a couple Reatta pictures from the bend cruise in on the photo section here... I dont know how to attach them on the 'forums' </div></div> 1. - After signing in, create a new topic or reply to an existing post. (You must click on the "reply" button, you cannot use the "quick reply" box at the bottom of a post.) 2. - Type your message in the full reply box. 3. - Click "File Manager" below the full reply box next to where it says "Post Options". (A new window will pop up.) 4. - Click "Browse" and select the photo file from your computer. You can add a caption for the file now if you like in the box provided. (Make sure the photo is less than 1 megabyte in size.) 5. - Click the "Add File" button. 5a - Repeat steps 4 and 5 if you want to add more photos. 6. - After you're done, click "Done Adding Files". (The pop up window will close.) 7. - Click "Submit" to post your message and photos to the forum.

Could could the dampening be achieved by controlling how the air inside the cylinder is released?

I assume, from reading the above posts, oil is what dampened the cylinder when new. If so and it needs more oil added to make it work again, how did the original oil get away? If it was a bad seal, the seal will still be bad if you add more oil.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Don't know why only three of them worked right. Guess it's back to the drawing board. Don't know how to do what you suggested.</div></div> Click here for easy instructions on how to post photos to the forum.