Ronnie

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Call for detalils or more pic's. </div></div>Where are the pics? Did I miss a link somewhere?

See if a slow blow fuse is available that will fit. They handle a surge better when the compressor clutch first engages. Might cure your problem if you can find one..

I did the Delco ignition module upgrade and the miss is gone. The old Magnavox module was leaking gray matter really bad and running down to the connector. I'm surprised the engine was still running.

This may be a dumb question but have you checked the air pressure to make sure you have the correct air pressure now? Sounds like the tire is rolling under when you turn hard.

1. - After signing in, create a new topic or reply to an existing post. (You must click on the "reply" button, you cannot use the "quick reply" box at the bottom of a post.) 2. - Type your message in the full reply box. 3. - Click "File Manager" below the full reply box next to where it says "Post Options". (A new window will pop up.) 4. - Click "Browse" and select the photo file from your computer. You can add a caption for the file now if you like in the box provided. (Make sure the photo is less than 1 megabyte in size.) 5. - Click the "Add File" button. 5a - Repeat steps 4 and 5 if you want to add more photos. 6. - After you're done, click "Done Adding Files". (The pop up window will close.) 7. - Click "Submit" to post your message and photos to the forum.

Nice photos. How did the reprogramming of the chip turn out?

I drove my Reatta yesterday and it started to have a miss, just above idle, when pulling out from a red light. It would only miss maybe three or four times and then run smoothly until I stopped again. The spark plugs are nearly new and the spark plug wires look good. I looked at the ignition module and it has a gray, oily, sticky substance coming out around the bottom. That tells me it needs to be changed. Is the low speed miss the first symptom when the module goes bad?

If the thermostat housing has been recently removed it is possible that coolant is just standing there from where it leaked when the housing was removed. Coolant takes a long time to evaporate. Otherwise it could possibly be the intake manifold gaskets. Clean all the coolant from the area. If you have the proper tools you can pressurize the radiator and look for the leak to appear. If you don't have the tools you can start the car and let it get hot and build pressure. Watch very closely to see where the leak first appears. IF it is the gasket, try tightening the manifold to the proper torque and it may stop leaking

Thanks to everyone who posted here for your support. Per your request the link is back for listing your Reattas and parts.

I'm glad I could be of assistance!

<span style="font-weight: bold">This coolant fan modification may only work on the '88 models. Other models may be wired differently.</span> For anyone interested, I installed the Hayden fan control relay kit (#3652) today. Everything went as expected. All wire connections were made underneath the fuse/relay block under the hood and the relay fit inside the fuse/relay box. However I did run into a problem. The probe that is inserted into the radiator would not sense the temperature properly. The fan would not come on until the temperature was past 210°. That was too high. To correct the problem I drilled and tapped, (6-32 tap), the center of the bolt that holds the thermostat housing in place and screwed the thermal snap switch, that came with the kit, into the head of the bolt. Now the fans turn on at 191° and turn off at 176°. I'm happy with the outcome but looking back I would spend the extra $10.00 to purchase the adjustable model of the fan control relay. That might allow the probe to work in the radiator as intended. Probably the better way to go is to get someone to modify the PROM if you can get someone to do it. Sometimes there is a little satisfaction to know you did it yourself the hard way.

Sounds like you are overfilling the reservoir. Follow special instructions for filling that can be found on reatta.net.

As info, below is an approximation of how the wheels may look on your car. It is not perfect but it may help you make a decision on your choice of wheels.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Reatta45</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Reattaneophyte, you are right, :)but there are some very good moderators at this site. If things get TOO strange, ignorant or wrong, they do step in and make the necessary adjustments. As to the overall flavor it will wax and wane through time. I choose to overlook those that are inconsiderate. They sometimes do it, as you say, tongue in cheek, but at times I am sure some think they are being cute. It may be from immaturity or bad manners or whatever, but it is usually easy to ignore those comments, and every now and then they will have something positive to contribute. There are times that some things or comments are made within this forum that would be better if addressed with a personal message, available using this forum… The issue of sales usually works itself out with normal posting. There have been several attempts to make things flow better in the past. I am sure there will be future attempts to improve things. The best so far is at the top of this page, the sticky post about selling your Reatta. It covers everything most people want to know. There have been for sale sites listed. Ebay is most likely the most popular, everyone knows that you are able to find almost anything you will ever want there… The simple truth is most of us here do not want to buy or sell cars, BUT we all like to see cars that are of interest for sale. This is why the cars for sale within this forum is so nice and welcome. You do not have to go to another place to see it. The members that have other things for sale, like you mentioned, have the dignity not to toot their own horn, someone will always refer people to them. Over all this is a fun place to visit… I do look forward to the time I can set aside to follow what us going on. As was already mentioned it is for the most part, civil enough to invite most back… as to sentence structure and grammar well we all try … at times. KennyV. </div></div> It appears thread was aimed at me and my website. <span style="font-weight: bold">The advertisement in my signature line has been removed.</span>ill aso tri to ignor spelling miskakes that mace messages hord to reed Reason: Resistance Is Futile. I have been Assimilated!

If this thread is aimed at me and my website, here are the facts. <span style="font-weight: bold">The advertisement in my signature line has been removed.</span>

Jumbled up ads for Reattas for sale like this one is the main reason I built the ReattasForSale.com website. It's a shame more people don't take advantage of it. Thanks Nic for using it.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: NYBobP.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">What is a silinoied? Where does it go for mr headlight? Do you need a mr bellcrank from Barney? </div></div> From what I get out of this conversation, silinoied is something bad that can be found in Vegas, that will make mr headlight stay up manually when he is not able to do it on his own. I have to admit, I am thoroughly confused by what I have read so far I and could be entirely wrong. I have never heard of silinoied before but you know what they say... "what happens in Vegas stays in Vegas"

Thanks for offering your help Kevin. I really appreciate it. I may need to go that route if I fail in what I'm trying to accomplish. I would also like to raise the speed at which my torque converter locks up. Right now it locks at about 47 miles per hour. I would like to delay it until about 52 mph. That is something I have not found a way to do with relays yet. With all due respect to everyone... is it really simpler to modify the chip than add a sensor and relay? What you said may in fact be simple but it sure sounds complicated to an old mechanic like me. Thanks to everyone who has commented about the cooling fans.

I have no overheating problems. I had a 180° thermostat installed last Summer and it ran 188° at highway speeds but sitting in traffic and not moving the engine temperature would go to 233° before both fans started running high speed and cooled the engine down. I personally don't want my engine to get that hot in traffic. It pushes hoses, seals and gaskets to their limits for no reason other than emissions. I would like to do my part in keeping the air we breath clean but I think I can find a better way to do it than melting down my engine. I installed a 160° thermostat just to see if the engine would cool down further to let me know how well my cooling system is working. It now runs at 163° on the highway. (I'm sure this varies a few degrees with each individual thermostat and outside air temperature.) I hardly ever drive my Reatta in the cold months so I may leave it in. I keep hearing that the simple way to change the point where the the fan come on is to modify the chip. That would be simple for someone who owns the software and hardware that is required to reprogram the chip. Of all the threads on this forum where I see someone say how simple it is to modify the chip have I never seen anyone offer to do a chip modification for anyone. I have seen where it was suggested that GMtuners could do the job. I will get it done the hard way and if I'm not satisfied I can undo it simply removing what hardware I have installed and be right back to the factory setup. Other than tapping into circuit 533 that powers the fans I will not be modifying any stock components.

Barney, I do have a service manual both paper and electronic. Thanks for verify what I said was true. Thanks to everyone for your comments on this subject. I would point out that I have not recommended or suggested that anyone should do this modification so anyone who offered encouragement to me need not apologize or add a disclaimer for doing so. I find it amusing that after 13 additional posts I have not got an answer to the only question in my original post. I wrote:<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">If I am only able to control one fan with the relay, does anyone know which of the fans cools the best... the front pusher fan or the rear puller fan?</div></div>

Dave, does your '89 have the same fan wiring as my '88 or do you have the fans that are in a series as described by Barney and Kenny? I ordered a Hayden #3652 (non-adjustable - on at 185 degrees and off at 170 degrees) from Advance Auto Parts. $26.99 plus tax. It seemed to be the most simple of all the ones I looked at. I was told by the salesman if it doesn't work as expected or I don't like it I can return it and get a full refund. OR if I want the adjustable one (#3647 $36.99) I can return it and pay the difference to get it.

Barney and KennyV: You are probably correct on some models. My fan is wired as shown in the photo below. I have a resistor as shown in the photo for the low speed operation of the rear (puller) fan that is operated by a seperate relay. Fans are not hooked in a series for slow speed. See Reatta.net FSM 6E3-A-5. I intend to use circuit 533 to power the fans.

I have been kicking this idea around for some time. I don't like the thought of my engine going way above the boiling point when in traffic before the fan kicks on. I originally wanted to use the fan relays that already control the fans but I found if you tap into the light green/black wire used by the ECU to control the fan relays the ECU will give a code E026 (the infamous quad driver code). If you disconnect the same wire from the relays and control them manually you get the same E026 code. What I intend to do is control the fan(s) with an external relay (picked up by the temp sensor) wired to supply 12v power directly to the coolant fans. The way it will be wired will allow the ECU to still control the fans. The new relay will just run the fans at a lower temperature. If the new relay fails for some reason the ECU will still control the fans as normal. I have already tried this manually and it seems to work fine. now I need to add the coolant sensor kit to make it operate automatically. I have the coolant temperature sensor kit ordered and should receive it in about a week. I will let you know how it turns out. I do have one decision to make before installing the kit... whether to make the coolant fans run only when the ignition key is in the run position OR to make the new system independent and have the fans run anytime the temperature is high enough. That would mean the fans could run after you leave the car at night. Any thoughts on this? Anyone?

I found that 10w40 and 20w50 are also available at the same price. I bought 6 gallons 4 -10w30 for my newer cars and 2 20w50 for my old truck. It's hard to beat the price. I was really hoped that more people would take advantage of the website. But it seems most people are ignoring it. Maybe it will catch on. Again, It's hard to beat the price.

I have installed a 160 degree thermostat to keep the engine running nice and cool. To keep the car cool in traffic I intend to install a coolant fan control sensor kit. The kit comes with a probe that installs in the radiator fins, which activates a relay to turn on the coolant fan(s) at 185 and off at 170 degrees. The relay may not be able to handle the amperage of both fans running at the same time. It will only handle 30-40 (not sure) amps. I have not checked to amperage of the fans yet. If I am only able to control one fan with the relay, does anyone know which of the fans cools the best... the front pusher fan or the rear puller fan? Any advice is appreciated.