Ronnie

I would check the codes to see if anything is stored there. If you find anything, right it down. Then reset the codes. That way if the problem returns you will know what codes were generated by the problem of not starting.

Man, I hate to sound like an @$$hole but how about starting a new paragraph every once in a while and slowing down and using a capital letter at the start of the sentences. What you wrote looks like one long sentence and it's too hard to follow what you are saying. I can see you need help and I'm willing to help. Just make it a little easier to do so. It would also help if you would put the model of your car in the signature line so we don't have to ask every time.

Thanks Daniel, That is good solid information like I'm looking for. Are there any electrical parts that are not attached to the engine that I should also ask for off the donor car at the same time?

A question for someone who has done the SC swap... If I go to the salvage yard, what exactly do I tell them I need to do the complete engine changeover to the SC engine? I'm not talking about replacing parts on my engine. I'm talking about buying the complete engine and related parts to replace my engine with a SC engine. Would you please be as detailed as possible.

That's pretty good gas mileage considering the CRT says you just drove for a little over 10 minutes and just used 3 tenths (.3) of a gallon of gas. Driving at 58.5 MPH for a little over 10 minutes means you only drove for about 5 miles. Thats not a very good test for gas mileage. Burn a tank full of gas (300-400 miles) and come back here and tell us what the gas mileage is. That will be a much more realistic figure.

It could be as simple as a loose or dirty battery cable. That is what I would check first. Does the code come back every time you reset the code and take it for a drive? If not I wouldn't worry about it until it gets worse.

BCM intermittently losing power... bad connection or bad ground is possible cause.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Better to go back to Plan "A" and pick up a complete/ running '95 Series I S/C Engine and you get the better exhaust mainifolds. Drop it in, wire it up and you're done. </div></div> What would is the going price for the complete system?

It sure would be helpful if everyone would put the model of their Reatta in their signature line so we would know up front which model we are talking about. The model of the car is the number one question that comes to mind when trying to help someone out. It gets cumbersome asking the same question over and over again. I'm not putting anyone down... just wishing out loud.

Steak, The fuel pump can also be powered by a set of contacts inside the Oil Pressure sending unit. The car will take longer to start because it has to turn over enough to build oil pressure, then the fuel pump will come on and it will run. See the Driveability & Emmisions section of the FSM, page 6E3-A-28, Chart A-5.

Nic, I don't believe you have a problem that reprogramming the chip to turn the fans on at a lower temp is going to solve, unless someone has already altered the program in your chip. If it was a programming error then all of us should have the same problem. Wouldn't we? I believe you will find you have something wrong electrically, either a bad relay, fuse, connection etc. that is keeping the fan from running when the A/C is on. The FSM shows two temp. sensors in the A/C system that sense the temp. of the freon circulating through the system. It is possible they may send information to the BCM or ECM that controls when the fans come on. They could be defective and sending incorrect information.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: mongeonman</div><div class="ubbcode-body">They all had the security called theft deterrent,to activate it you must use the lock button on the door and close it,then to disactivate it you must use the key to unlock,maybe yours does not work,if you have a service manual take a look it will explain how it works. </div></div> You are right, but I was thinking of the systems with the key fob remote control.

My '88 does not have the alarm/security system. Was the alarm an option on some years or only standard in later years? I vaguely remember someone talking about a premium sound system... maybe Bose? Was it standard or optional?

What were the options that could be ordered for the Reatta over the 4 years they were produced? Is there a list posted anywhere? Ive heard of Sunroof, 16 Way Seats and CD Player. Any more? Were painted wheels optional? 16" wheels? Were any colors considered special options? Is there a list of colors available posted anywhere? Thanks

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Jim ND IN</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> most vehicles have the heater core accessible under the hood though. </div></div> It would have saved me countless hours of work if you were right about that. Maybe I just wasn't looking in the right place for the access door.

Below is how a Fiero owner handled a similar problem. You may require different size fittings. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> I took a cracked EGR tube and cut the tube from the flanges. Next I ground the flanges smooth on a bench grinder and drilled (enlarged ) the holes and tapped the holes to a 3/8 NPT thread. I used Russell Endura #8 AN to 3/8 NPT male hose connectors to the prepared EGR flanges. Summit sells these adapters for $4.00 each. I made gaskets from both flange ends ends from Mr. Gasket sheet asbestos high temp gasket material. You could also use stock Pontiac gaskets. I next bolted the new improved flanges back to the EGR valve and to the plenum,. Next I measured an old EGR tube and added 1/2" for extra play. I went to a local hose shop and asked that they make up a stainless braided telfon lined hose with #8 AN female ends. It must be teflon to take the heat. The total measurement that I provided was from end to end with the fittings attached. The custom SS teflon hose cost me $25. You install the modified EGR flanges first then all you do is hand thread the female hose ends of the custom teflon hose to the #8 male fittings on the flanges and tighten ( not too tight) with a stubby open end wrench. You now an EGR tube that should last a lifetime and cost about $40. The real advantages to this EGR tube is that it is long lasting, can be disconnected form the EGR tube or the plenum in less than a minute and costs 1/3 the price. </div></div>

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: John w/2 Reattas</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Never would have considered a clutch alignment tool. </div></div> I don't know what happened to my original link. Here is what is should have shown: 85-88 V6 FLEXIBLE BRAIDED STEEL EGR TUBE A very common problem among V6 Fieros is a cracked EGR tube. This crack will cause a large vacuum leak and your Fiero will idle extremely high. The Fiero Store now carries a completely redesigned EGR tube made from braided steel so that it will not be prone to breaking again. If your tube is still original, think about replacing it before problems occur. Gaskets included. Part # 67019 Price: $99.95

EGR tube breakage is a common problem on the Pontiac Fiero. You might be able to adapt the tube found here to your application.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: campolojr</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> ...still the only way I can get it to fire is to press the gas then it starts rough like its running on 3 cylinders for a couple seconds then dies which is where it back fires... The backfiring doesnt happen everytime either. </div></div>Does it only happen when the engine is completely cold? Does it ever happen if you turn the engine off and immediately restart it? If it only happens when the car has been sitting for an extended period of time, there could be the possibility of one or more injectors leaking (bad internal seals) and puddling gasoline in the intake manifold (and cylinders if the intake valve happens to be open at the time) and flooding the engine. That would account for you needing to "press the gas" until the engine starts and also account for the rough running. Anytime you have large amounts of gasoline in the intake manifold and sparks involved, the chance of backfiring is likely. If the problem occurs at other times, check your spark plug wires to be sure they are not improperly connected or are in poor condition (arcing or worn where they touch) that would cause cross firing between cylinders at the wrong time. The plug wires can also cause serious backfiring through the intake. I wouldn't spend any money on parts until I had some idea what the problem is. Hope this helps!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: campolojr</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I think you guys are rude. Sorry if I have bad <span style="text-decoration: underline">grammer</span> I wont post again alright? I reread that post three times and I still get mean replys. Why even say anything I help out when I can around here. I may not be perfect as neither are both of you. Jim I hope your <span style="text-decoration: underline">vehical</span> fails on you <span style="text-decoration: underline">catastrophicly</span> on the freeway. Dave , yes I did want to get the question out there just wanted to see if somebody knew so maybe I could test a few things this morning. </div></div>Guys, lets all try to get along. We are all here for the same reason and that is to help each other maintain our cars. campolojr, I have to agree that it is hard to read posts that are full of mistakes. I believe Jim's intent was to point that out but I do feel his wording was a little too strong. I underlined three spelling mistakes in your last paragraph. I can not spell very well myself. I use the latest version of the Firefox browser that has a built in spell checker. It underlines the spelling mistakes in red as I type. I recommended you download it and use it. It has helped me tremendously in making my typing more readable. You can also go to the 'My Profile' section and add your vehicle details to your signature line. That way others will not have to ask on every new post what the model year your Reatta is. Also add your name to the signature line, as the moderator of the forum previously requested, so people have an idea who they are talking with. With all that said, if I was the moderator and I saw what you wrote to Jim (quoted below), I would ban you from this forum. It was entirely uncalled for and you should apologize. That one statement says more about your character than all the bad grammar and spelling ever could. <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> Jim I hope your vehical fails on you catastrophicly on the freeway.</div></div>

Same here. I wish one like that would come somewhere near me.

I'm sure he got a good price. I doubt he will want to disclose the "final price" to the whole world. I know I wouldn't.

Glad to hear the modulator valve helped your problem!

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: tom_wasil</div><div class="ubbcode-body">i read that for a little more performance , they changed the final drive gear in 91 . is it possible to replace this gear with a higher speed gear . i believe the 91 has electonic tranny , is it the same tranny as full size lesabre , 88 etc.? </div></div> I know this question was for Ranger but I wanted to point out that it would be much easier to change the wheels and tires to a larger diameter that would yield the same result as changing to a higher gear ratio.

The advice on plugging the vacuum line may be questionable. The result of plugging the line and not allowing any vacuum to the modulator will be shifts that are very hard. It could possibly damage the transmission seals as well as other parts, if the car is driven that way for an extended period, due to them getting full pump pressure applied on every shift . The modulator valve regulates the amount of pump pressure applied to the transmission on each shift. Vacuum drop is what allows the modulator valve to make the transmission shift it's hardest at wide open throttle. Plugging the vacuum line will simulate wide open throttle shifts for the modulator valve. I would just change the modulator valve (not a high dollar part at Advance Auto Parts and just about a 15 minute job - one bolt) or park the car until I could get the job done.